Show V a ft rne y t I 1 t LO 4 Z w 5 ri n n how persian women dress for a journey 11 prepared by the national society D C northern n doorway through hir her caspian sa port of endall furnishes the quickest route for reaching tho the coun count rys en capital pital teheran when the passage through the Trans caucasus states of russia Is open when the approach la Is along this sea route the first appearance pe arance of persia Is disconcerting because jt it does not I 1 look 0 ol 01 like persia it agrees very well with what whai on one might expect of or sumatran matrai Su but the standard requirements for the land of the lion and the sun are conspicuous by their absence soan after the uncertain haze to the south lia has s resolved itself into shorelines neg comes ones I 1 s first impressionistic I 1 sioni glimpse the thatched or red tiled roofs of the low lying town then a wealth of wide branching trees the outpost af id a dark a rk enveloping of jungle and behind this swiftly to unbelievable height the dusky cloud mantled mantle d mou mountain frangu which bars entrance to the desert bin terland thereal the real persia if the ilie exotic luxuriance of legeta tio aton n and the careless of the thatched huts and rustic booths of the inhabitants disturb your pre conceived visions of the country you will find them fading with shocking suddenness at your first introduction to its population when the boat ties up at the pier and an ill smelling rabble of ragged half naked villains swarms on board to wrangle about getting your luggage ashore A courteous frock coated persian official ou iclal conventionally crowned with what appears to be a 4 cross section ok 0 an opera hat passes you through the ceremonies of the customhouse and in a brief space of time you are rolling inland in a russian drosky near fragrant orange groves past illy padded lagoons and through flower carpeted jungles alive with an endless variety of semitropical semi tropical song birds and waterfowl arrival at the city of desht after a twenty mile ride of the rarest kal kaleidoscopic eldo loveliness la Is certain certainly lya a transition from where eer every pro prospect pleases to where only man ls li alle the sixty inches of annual rainfall which have made th the e surrounding country a q garden carden of eden have con vi ath mans inventive Invent am lVe genius to turn tills this town of inhabitants with its sodden roofs narrow gilray alleys and crumbling walls nails into an odorous a verl label aabel slough 0 of f despond to anyone with such lofty illusions of 7 as those these of a certain disgusted american traveler who ft ho had gone aalthe all the way to arnolds majestic obus stream only to find it muddy the trip over the mountains with its ever changing variety of unusual sensations sensation sf even at CO 50 cents a mile Is worth the price I 1 1 only 70 miles south sout h of the he autho but the road must climb end tw leafor oa 01 inalea s in order to arrive there I 1 like a Pe adlers lert van at the your means of transportation you you clamber gingerly into the debris of what may have been in a long forgotten n era a very elegant and commodious coupe coupe but which now with your variegated assortment of luggage lashed to every available projection approximates more closely nn an itinerant peddlers van than anything else theoretically if one travels day and night the trip requires a day and n v halt half actually about twin twice that I 1 long ong from the oppressive humidity of the abo region of the rice fields the road gradually gro dually ascends to the shade of 04 the deep forest belt whose labyrinth of close growing trees and and interwoven giant creepers forms fories a dark silent eni lane with impenetrable green breed walla all into which the carriage intrudes witti with its ita ceaseless rumble of heavy tired wheels and toe constant jingle of the way pony bells 1 i v une the abruptness or of me ascani increases 7 vie the forest area la Is left behind thriving vineyards bearing luscious tse seedless edless end and skinless cover the hillsides hill sides occasional C clumps of bi olive trees appear and fie frequent quent groups of tatter tattered bd peasants stare curiously at the invader in the passing carriage the aspect of the country now changes rapidly all signs of habitation tion except a few wretched dugouts dug outs disappear and the old coach climbs heay heavily lly aver over barren rocks to tb tile th 0 bleak summit of the pass feet above them the sea i after a rapid descent through barren gullies comes a sweeping view of bf 11 1 1 actual persia edid broad ab brown wah rolling plains extend beyond the limit of vision evenin even in the dear air of the plateau abid the naked southern uther n scarp carb s of arr 3 rs ln tiffi vestige ID of f gree gral ai riAt fat levels irrigating ditches which porn beom to 10 flow uphill up hlll sluggishly follow the ali curving C hillsides hill sides orchards and mud walled gardens begin to appear and bedora long the turquoise domes and ail crenellated crenel walls of the city of come in sight passing through gli a gaudily tiled gateway the route leads along a wide avenue shaded by beautiful trees to 6 a pretentious and much ornamented bull building ding which Is nothing more nor ress less than the and hotel where one may actually occupy a spring bed or eat a passable attempt at a european dinner i monotonous waste A large of the last ninety miles between knevin and teheran Is a monotony of drab stone covered waste of which the road itself Itsel fAs Is an almost indistinguishable part parl the route Is level levei and parallels the great northern mountain rim of the plateau iia the I 1 only ohly sign of approach to an important city esthe Is the increasing traffic oo on the road not bonfy of the leisurely mule aid ad camel caravans but of f primitive prairie schooners ners with wild looking shaggy batted daiv arsand barc legged villagers driving strings of heavily laden little to market passes through the elburg elburz from the caspian sea converge upon teheran from the east enist and west a and nd water whose lim presence sence lia Is Such supreme importance in the locatto loc atlo cipf a persian city I 1 la a here ln in abundance the district afes in about the latitude ot of cape flat if ras has a temperate he healthful climate which Is in and pleasant during nine months bt bf the he year the three summer months are excessively hot and dry but bur luxury of 0 a summer resort 1 it la ne necessary cessare only to load ones bolon belongings kings oh a string of donkeys or a h spring lesa cart and move six els or eight miles p to one of the cool mountain villi villages igei evlie where r e 66 six or sevah seven hundred af the foreign colony ind and many mahy bathel of the Per persians take refu refuge gefrom from tie he ecail heat Tc hertin weather I 1 Is s similar to that of arizona but several degrees cooler both in summer and winter the nights fire always al ways cool the sun shines nearly every day of the year the winter la 13 brief and moderate and the long spring and autumn are like those seasons in delightful southern sut fiern callior alt although occupying an ancient site teheran ta la a very modern modem city it has been the capital of persia only a little more mo te than thad a century and has hall wen been an important metropolis for a much she shorter arter time lime than that 11 hages Ul lages pr rel lia its predecessor in tills this district was a populous city bf ancient thrived ap n the middle ages ageg la Is said to hove had a population of I 1 r COQ ind and to 6 fin navar ve been n the largest city east of Baby babylon loit but found itself too centrally located d forets tor its own permanence end d continued prosperity when the mongols swept through western asia c A i yf |