Show velvet velve fur U used S ed to T trim rim A apparel apparel JL the most significant feature of win ter fashions is the new silhouette which has finally and utterly deposed tenacious bu larity you may banish banian every lost last lingering doubt the undeviatingly slender blender outline called variously pencil tubular straight line and narrow has lost its ita place in the sun un and belongs now to the oblivion of history in its place there have come not one silhouette but many each bas baa ing its vogue on the mere fact that it la Is no longer straight advises a parts paris fashion correspondent in the now new york herald tribune the most J estial of the new out outlines Is ii the hemline flare frequently but not always accompanied by a molded bodice constant iteration for several seasons has made the sudden skirt flare sound much older than it looks but in any easy cast it Is in the dean of the new ne outlines numerically the most popular and destined shortly to be anc succeeded ceedee by lees leas decisive concepti conceptions ont newer variants are the shoulder flare and the princess silhouette whose vogues will rapidly gather momentum as autumn turns turna to winter and winter to spring and the kinetic line of lucien lelong perhaps the most discussed development of the season kinetic as lelong uses it connotes motion and the kinetic silhouette Js in merely a free swinging outline designed to keep pace with the restless mobility of modern women freedom Is its essence and no matter how complicated the cut the effect to la always one of simplicity it does not attain genuine width until the wearer Is in motion velvet Is prominent velvet Is the mate material arial which should be worn by the composite smart malden maiden and its popularity evidences the powe of propaganda months ago when the ladles ladies of the sea were pirouetting on the summer sanda annas the stage was set for the entry of velvet into fashions doin domain aln skirt length 19 a theme upon which paris and new york are not in accord but the difference Is a not great the lenne keeps her hemline about sixteen inches off the ground while the modish mesdames on this side of the atlantic have moderately lowered the border from two to three inches your e composite 0 lady then will have to include two skirt lengths in her wardrobe ro be if she must indicate a preference it should be for the edlet edict of new york the longer and more graceful shirt kirt which reaches to thirteen or fourteen inches off the ground the high neckline la 19 another identifying mark of this season given the stamp of authority at longchamp and it may be choker round or square on our typical lady we shall choose the high square line although it does not rank first numerically it Is tile the most advanced type however and will survive the t be others the Longe longchamp hamp ladles ladies are unanimous in exploiting the long narrow sleeve which Is neither nelt lier new nor unexpected it has been constantly predicted since early summer and there was no serious attempt made to introduce any other type at the august openings the long sleeve Is such a gratifying relief from the abbreviated species of the flapper era that we hesitate to seek a change except in the matter of varl variation atlon the composite sleeve Is narrow to the elbo elbow puffed below and Is gathered at the wrist fur used in profusion Prof irlon the trimming question in it a single word Is fur fur at diverse points and in profusion fur in the conservative natural shades and fur dyed in high colora to harmonize with the costume furs of many different species but always fur the vividly colored trim mang furs enjoyed a brilliant but fleeing early season vogue which never received the sanction or of the haute monde longchamp has haa registered flatly against it and the natural uni dyed pelts are the ones that belong in the smart samaa winter picture As AB far as color Is concerned we are am disposed to disregard the verdict ot of longchamp throngs at ai this fashion able race couise course adopted adolte d black fur for coats and ensembles in gradually increasing cr numbers paris too reports an unexpected increase of or black for all occasions and there Is no doubt that smart women on the continent have returned for the moment to this shade of the past yet we cannot consider li it as anything more than a temporary aberration and one which does not coincide with the tempo of the mode greens blues browns dark reds and grays reflect better the feel ab 4 g featuring knife plaited skirt cuffs flare back collar ing of the moment and it would be rank heresy to dress our composite lady in black immediately after the colorful paris exposition des arts dec oratius green Is a little newer and perhaps a little smarter than the others and we suggest it for the frugal ladles ladies who look toward tomorrow these are the outstanding general genera themes of the crystallized full fall and winter modes of 1925 yet individually or collectively they are meaningless unless they incorporate the pro proper per atmosphere mo sphere the maiden of this very enlightened year Is a most feminine creature in comparison with her mannish predecessors of last season and her boyish prototypes of open coated flapper days severity has been replaced by elaboration and everywhere the mode Is striving toward gentler conceptions there Is nothing alc borlan about the new femininity which Is quite apparent indeed it la Is a highly sophisticated species but it has a balance and maturity to it that makes last years styles look adolescent in comparison not an elegante in the varly parly century meaning of the term the smart roallen malien distinctly deserves that appellation in its modern connotation her composite version must announce and in a very positive way the new feminine feeling |