Show tips for the home waists with lace by rosa E payne K HE waist illustrated in the T accompanying sketch looks as if it might be a formidable task for an amateur to van turc on As a matter of fact it is really no more difficult although requiring considerably more work than making a plain shirtwaist shirt waist it is for making in any soft texture that will look well full the bandi are strips of insertion bordered with narrow stitched bands of panne silk fine cloth or anything suitable for the material of which the waist is composed lace are set in at inter H rals and the tucking is of chiffon crepe de chine or an allover all over lace may be substituted for the tucks the sleeve has an upper part which is practically a continuation of the shoulder tucking and the lower part gathered under the trimming band is also edged with one if desired acry light the whole sleeve may be of the thin material and if that is too full or light for the stitched band trimming it may be finished by some tucks along the lower edge the fastenings are in the back and by means of hooks and eyes down the center the division being hidden among the folds either awell fitted plain shirtwaist shirt waist or plain bodice pattern may be used with a fitting sleeve for cutting the pattern if a bodice join the parts of the back together to have the halfback all in one piece and leave the darts open in the front join the shoulders together and lay this out on a piece of stiff wrapping paper to cut it all in one piece placing the middle back edge to a straight one of the paper and cutting the front edge by a fold and to the old pattern from the neck corner to several inches down only and then continuing it straight down if from a plain shirtwaist shirt waist pattern it is only necessary to put the shoulders together and cut the new pattern all in one with a fold down the center front on this make lines where the divisions of the plain setting parts arc to come any kind of a design may be marked out in this way and then carried out on the paper just as lace is worked on a foundation of linen in diagram L the lines arc marked dividing the tucked sections the next thing is to cut each of these out on separate pieces of paper by i laying a piece under the pattern and tracing through the lines with a wheel then cutting by the perforations made now each one must be enlarged to allow for the tucking in the following manner measure the smaller curve and decide how many tucks it will take the edge must be enlarged to allow double the width of a tuck for each one for example if the half neck edge measures seven inches and there are to be quarter inch tucks I 1 with a quarter inch between each tuck edge and the next running there will be fourteen tucks which will take up seven inches th that amount must be added to the original size making it fourteen instead of seven place your tape measures carefully around the pattern to find where it measures the required amount and is yet parallel with the neck edge it is an easy matter to throw the outer edge out to the same distance diagram it shows the pieces in their original and enlarged sizes do not forget that the front edge of the neck piece is put to a fold of the material to insure the tucks being parallel on a rounded piece of material divide the lower edge marking it with pencil into aa many equal spaces as there arc tp be tucks and slope them from the top edge accordingly A quicker but less finished way is to tuck a straight strip to the size 0 the larger edge and draw it up to the size of the smaller one this is sometimes advisable in using very clear material such as maline in which it would be almost impossible to tuck to shape to cut out the lower parts of front and back allow six inches for the ful ness in the front and four at the back cutting the top edges straight across by the highest points as indicated by the dotted lines on diagram I 1 diagram III shows the cutting of the sleeve allowing for the tucks if the lower part is of heavier material it may be desirable to make it a little less wide otherwise the lower part of the enlarged pattern forms the frill and the upper the tucked portion to make jhc thc waist run first the insertion strips on to the wrong sides of the back and front materials cut this latter away over the insertions leaving a turning to each running which fold back and cover with the narrow stitched band if there is any difficulty in correctly placing the insertion gather the top edges first place them on the paper then run new threads through the fullness to the shape required and cut off the superfluous material leaving only a small turning above the running then U will be quite easy to place the insertions and do not forget to leave room for the lace at the top unless kitred mitred ends to the trimming bands are preferred secure the on quite firmly cut away the texture from underneath and make the edges secure by hemming with eight inch wide tape or ribbon when the lower parts arc complete tack them firmly on to the paper next place and tack the tucked parts put the in place anil tack the bands on to extend just a turning tee teemu iU under the edges in each case remove the and stitch the bands through paper as well which can easily be torn away afterwards replace and secure the and add the insertion to the neck edge then remove it all from jhc paper cut away the material there are more than small turnings and from under the and make neat and trim with ribbon or tape as before join the side by french seams that is running or stitching first with small turnips to the right side then to the wrong the second turning en closing the arst one do not forget to make the edges turned in for the hooks and eyes arro with tape to support the sewing on of the fastenings otherwise they will soon pull out of shape and probably also tear the sleeves after doing the other part will offer no difficulty let them into the armhole arm holc but finish off the top part by joining under the insertions as the other parts have been done as it is not desirable to have an armhole seam there bind the under part of the armhole with ribbon or silk binding for smart waists it is an excellent plan to arrange the waist falness on the figure closely pinning it to a ucb bang band set around the waist underneath when removed tack the mate rial to the webbing along the batters lat lower edge stitch it there then at about a quarter of an inch above but not on any account along the top edge W ba the material below the waist wf be cut off as short as desired and W band if not stitched higher specified will hold the garment wal down anac giving it a smart taut appe it is an excellent plan to have 0 or two nicely fitting silk slip bodnia and skirts also in different shades f serve in turn under various oiin dresses it is not only much aoa economical than having the aa waists made with foundations hot permits of a greater varying and w greatly simplifies the cleaning of w gowns it may be readily seen that w paper foundation to work upon foiw it quite an easy matter to cm the most mosaic of designs ia one thing that is of importance w that is that the paper must b correct as to fit and wound be worth while for aaa making joany fancy blouses to cat as foundation in thin oil cloth S oaly that case any machine stitching W be done after the whole has ix firmly tacked over the oilcloth y then removed do not attempt to carry idea with half a pattern any than you would work a battend collar over half a foundation of ta have the whole pattern open W at the sides and where the fasten are to be arranged always reaca that wraps must be allowed r the latter |