| Show CATHERINE TALBOTS GOSSIP OF THE PARIS FASHIONS june I 1 the gay parisian PARIS capital as we all know has the reputation of being the sartorial center ot the world with the rue de la as the axis round which moves the whole creation ot clothes delphic oracles are to be invoked at almost every portal and when walking this streets glittering length one la almost certain to meet cither a couturie re or a costumer so given over Is the particular location to the frills and furbelows fur belows of fashions votaries vot aries although the parisian dressmakers honors are thick upon them they have not the distinction of sending out the oldest dressmakers bill which Is of chaldean origin and has been found recently on a tablet in asia minor that this allf haa been outlawed even it acter paid any court would maintain when one tees its date 2800 B C this history of the boes woes of other days contains an itemized hat of and their cost given by the king to the and asca of one of the temples it la a great satisfaction to know that the creature comforts of even eo simple u people had a considerable price when our own modern necessities have to be coped with in hard earned coin of the realm although the present coutu bill may not be as long in coming to light it makes up in dollars what it loses tn time and it Is a clever woman who in these extravagant days does not financially fall between the brylla of modes and the of her dress allowance it Is not of course necessary to put anaa whole soul into the subject of clothes but it requires not a little thought knowledge and discretion to choose wisely a becoming and appropriate wardrobe in so vast a fabric field where liberty of choice Is almoas unlimited care and forethought are indeed doubly necessary the daya that are no more are apt to be unduly roseate in hue and the gown that Is no more Is very apt in to take on added attractions but K looking at the question dispassionately the tailor built frock of season or two KO was a blessing to all womankind it could be depended upon to do duty on all occasions where a cloth toilet was d rigueur now things are sadly changed one must have a morning tailored frock short as to skirt and worn with a jaunty jacket linen ahart walt and the latest tie development for tho afternoon more elaborate affair of light cloth canvas or voile with a train or dip at least and a ahlf ton walt exactly matching the cloth 1 kart and coat in color this becoming r bloksa la made full over a tight fitting t lining of satin and trimmed with lace cr embroidery A three quarter coat or k k plaited bolero at the bearers wearers wear ers tancy and with this addition the after noon walking toilet Is complete if one f haa to economize have both skirts of the same material as the jacket j in the matter of hata the situation is quite as beriou se riou one must have a outing af faira dainty piece t of millinery to harmonize with the r emart afternoon frock the picture gomney or gainsborough hs an si tor and then the different kinds of sporting headgear one needs i to discouraging to an extreme A few years ago three hatai would etva an elered the purpose beautifully abla i of things one really r 1 doca not even begin to cover ven the of the smart wo anan but are bopa to cerberus moat of us financially handicapped ar I 1 to make do fri abe rae for and creations in gowns ahas helped to lighten the burden of the fashionable woman with a limited puree her only saving grace la to possess the artistic sanse and sufficient leisure to design and supervise the making of home masterpieces with the assistance of a good visiting dressmaker who understands how to cut fit and finish well and own fingers to add the pretty hand work touches many a creditable creation will result in these belt directed dress schemes never attempt the severe style as this must be handled by a best tailor originality and strange as it may sound elaboration should be the aim of the artistic home fashioner this phase of the question will not bother the sartorial artist of today when to be well dressed ones gown is a mass of intricate elaboration from collar to hem A clever french woman with a feel ine akin to clothes remarked that the abre important things are to ascertain the latest novelty and adopt it before the public at large adopts it to get a neat finish on homemade garments and taa provide lot of elaboration in the construe ion the wise woman will make these rulea her own are the latest Pait frock effects eff ecta and this aade anver woman has turned out from the home atelier an rtresa having a motif the material cut very full round the bottom and floating out like some graceful flower under the or gandie at the knee was applied a design of la france roses their leaves cut from pink and green lawn and fastened to the skirt with invisible other leavea were arranged in a girdle round the hips with a few stems and small tendrils running down the front an intertwined band of roses and leaves formed trimming across the waist and Bl eevea under the rose decked or gandie was a fellmy skirt of green chiffon which shimmered and shone in a charming manner through the white material it you are going this summer or to the seashore sea shore costumes suitable for those places are of interest the all scarlet serce gown is much affected by the french elegante or the seashore but most women appear toi better ad in dark blue or white with a touch of scarlet here and there scarlet which are very much to the fore are especially nice tor blue serge or alnena A blue frock ot this cort with a short was trimmed with a coarse crochet braid of red and with tali of blue and red ay iy intervals the little bolero coat was lined with white spotted red with this was worn a white cambric shirt a prettily shaped red leather belt a white muslin cravat and a ue of foulard another breezy yachting gown Is of black flannel striped with white the plain skirt has a panel 0 white flannel and a short coat finished with a deep white collar edged with black braid A jaunty white yachting cap adds to the attraction of this costume the heavy linens ara very smart tor YACHTING COSTUMES the sailing gowns and if made for are always fresh and attractive inexpensive and charming tor either land or aea la a rough coarse walta hojsack hopsack hop sack the skirt slightly full and round and trimmed with graduated bands of military braid the jacket Is aiko braided and lined with a bright blue alak fastening with two large gilt buttons A blue straw sailor la the accompanying hat A yachting costume designed to be worn at the american races to see the beat shamrock III Is a jaunty affair in white canvas with plaited ghert and bolero having little fronts of let velvet embroidered in black athla bright addition la becoming and gives the cheery appearance so necessary in sea the hat with if twist of scarlet velvet and flat white carries out the happy effect something new in design shown ty doucet Is a smart long coat of coarse white homespun suitable either for ee vloe or motoring athla coat haa th kimono effect in the with victorian idea brought in with the oft the houlder cape and atole the bold welding of remote fashion eras ha evolved a garment altogether in tune with KB intents A wrap of character in heavy linen la tha emart land development motoring if under a cloud just now aa he unfortunate outcome of the recent maceo have had their effect but only for th moment and before long we wilt bo away at the same reckless tate forgetful of awful in linen gown there 1 a decided fancy for rough and smooth varl atles in the euime cobourne coB tUrne I 1 aaa a fown ho linen daintily adorned with a sott linen and embroidered in likht alue many of these are i made pretty of a contrat ing color and military braid moat effective are th wanee lyneo townsa real the 1 wearing anil becoming to her particular kind obe auty when black and white ar about the nam rock and lac blouse J i fc and orange leather are donned nothing la needed byway by way of a fetching costume mauve and purple linens aro a new venture in the linen fields the ash conable pala green shade 0 linen makes pretty toilet when worn by the right person but let me ask you to beware how you handle athla green alon its former trimming of white beading ann through with black ribbon Is how de mode and this seasons green linen gown has merely a soupcon of black without which few parisian are complete with the bummer gown footgear Is an important item for yachting white buckskin will hold its own and fawn suede Is comfortable th extremists in style here are dressing their feet in scarlet dark and pale green and blue indeed there Is a perfect crate for the colored shoe and sandal with hosiery to match amid ahls array of shades the conservative taste will always incline toward bronie black or white in shoe and upper no matter what you wear the objectives in summer dressing are crispness and devoid of incongruity at every kind in other words never bo over gowned for an occasion CATHERINE TALBOT |
