| Show fi fi i i i n t rr r r t THE OF THE FRENCH capital jan as short coats have come to stay we see PARIS them wherever we see a fashionable woman and they are made in all the glowing fab and in all the odd and striking combinations of the eighteenth century short coats have taken the place of blouses tor afternoon and evening wear and of the eton and bolero jacket upon the tailored promenade frock these are the days when apparel proclaims the woman no possible economies may be substituted tor the costly bro cades jand laces and jeweled buckles and buttons which are now the rage on the three quarter and the short louis XV coats these have another disadvantage from the standpoint of the woman who would economize no cheap dressmaker can give the required elegance of cut A handsome coat tor wear with a tailored skirt was made ot blue velours it was tight fitting in the back loose in the front and adjusted ai the right side with two handsome autv tons A girdle of black satin passed around the waist and under tho straight front of the coat from tha rear of the girdle depended a triple basque stitched about the edges the large collar coming down the front like revers was faced with guipure lace and crossed by banda of astrakhan the cleeves Bl eeves of ample fullness were gathered in above the wrist by ft flaring cutt of lace and astrakhan banda A plastron of plaited silk with a rucheng of plaited chiffon about the neck was worn beneath the coat the louis XII Is one of the newest varieties of the new coat the portion which Is very much rounded Is longer than the louis XV style one of the former worn at a fashionable wedding the other day was both simple and pretty pale blue embroidered velvet formed the body around tha edge a band cloth was stitched the open front waa filled in with a vest of white over which soft lace was cascaded the camo to the elbow where flaring revers disclosed two deep lace flounces the lower one of which fell to the wrist the pockets of the basque the sides of the coat and the sleeves were garnished with jeweled buckles the coat waa meant to be worn with a separate skirt and was exceedingly smart for visiting or tor the theater even though the front of the coat present the approved bolero outline the rear should have something to suggest a basque it it be only a slender and short habit back such as may be affixed to a tailored beige jacket trimmed with bands of stitched silk and adorned with a great deal of lace and ribbons for the street coats have longer skirts than tor indoor wear A handsome louis XV was part of a smart prom canado costume made for a lady of the beau monde it was of smooth faced cloth and almost military in ita outlines the moderately wide collar and the long rovers were bordered with narrow balloons gal loons repeated on the edges of the deep flaring cuffs the vest of white waa adorned with bright buttons and handsome broga above which a lace covered collar and fichu appeared in soft outlines the skirt of the coat boasted two deep pockets trimmed with buttons while reaching almost entirely round the body it did not autto meet in front A typical loula XV hat of felt trimmed with balloons gal loons and chouk was worn with this coat another of these promenade coats was netted with a skirt so long that it reached almost to the hem 0 the dress it was cut in princess style with the upper and lower portions in one piece an exquisite louis XV tea jacket was made of brocaded ellk trimmed with velvet and lace it had a pointed body down the front of which the velvet was set in two narrow bands with a mere suggestion of white in the center fancy buttons were set in close rows on the velvet the skirt was a double affair neither section being very long the upper one was outlined on the hips by a band of velvet the deep turned over collar of silk the revera and the turned back guns were bordered with velvet frills of lace at the sleeves and a atchu at the neck completed the dainty and useful garment which any home dressmaker might successfully cess fully duplicate what was called a habit coat the model was part of a reception robe was made ot irish decorated with of pompadour silk and trimmed with bands of sable tho garment was novel in design a long tab hanging from the waist at each side and the back being adorned with a handsome chou of silk which WAS the i termination of the silk girdle that passed under the front of the coat the high straight collar merged into hat revere that extended to the waist tho vest consisted of lace cascaded from the collar also tor housa wear was a coat of brocade pompadour silk with the bodice which followed the bolero outline supplemented in the rear by a narrow basque cut out separately and stitched in place A deep round collar faced with lace and trimmed with a frill of aiace curved over the shoulders and terminated in points over the bust the lace appeared again in frella falling from abo dashing looking revers cuffs tha veat and collar were of plaited de sole three large fancy buttons bordered each side of the jacket the girdle was a piece of velvet and lines ot velvet finished the collar and cuffs an exquisite affair of daffe blue silk brocaded with pale blue roses whose fallago was tied with blue nota was worn with a white cloth skirt inset with embroidered silk motives this coat from the front seemed merely a little rounded bolero over a blouse of white crepe de chine and lace the silk sleeves were cut off short a little below the elbow and coquettishly knotted with velvet ribbon bows the full sleeves of the blouse were caught at the wrist by bands of velvet terminating in bows the dainty double collar of the coat was of velvet edged with the tiniest of ecru that continued around the edge of the coat at the waist a velvet girdle confined the white blouse while in the rear the fitted back of tho coat extended below the waist to form a small rounded basque the newest 0 tha louis XV coats is of serge with the bodice laid in lines that suggest a breastplate of the mid die agres the buttons run down the sides ot the coat from shoulder to waist at the throat a narrow V cut into tha cloth la filled in with and draped collar of white alln the collar faced with velvet a smart sat in vest the tight sleeves button over the lower halt of tha fore M arm the basque made separately Is a long carefully draped over the figure it begins just where the sides of the bodice end the rows of buttons are therefore continued on the skirt ol 01 the coat which Is given a lining of delicate brocade silk which shows whenever the wind lifts one corner of the drapery evidently prefers the short type for one of the most modish of his recent models was made with a basque not exceeding six inches in length indeed there room or the TYPES OF THE NEW eighteenth CENTURY COAT ornamental pockets clasped with two handsome cut etcel buttons tho bodice front had the straight outline suggestive rather of the catherine de medici than at the loula XV period tho moderately deep collar was cut in three narrow divisions over a vest of cloth a shade or two lighter than the coat A double coat the simulated under one ot brocade and the over one of velvet waa par of a modish walking dress eeck on the boulevards one pleasant afternoon the combination of velvet and broxada was carried out in the cuffs the collar and tha dainty hat upon the young matrona matrons mat rons pretty blond head of the more serviceable jackets or spring it Is my opinion that the russian blouse Is the neatest and most useful it does not depend for beauty on trimmings an application of stitching at the utmost being employed as a decoration one coat of gray frieze was piped with black silk along the edges of the box plaits the collar the sleeves and the belt the tendency on the russian bloiso Is to use rich materials and employ the utmost simplicity in construction in this it differs altogether from the coats which can scarcely be too ornate the habit or coat of the louis XV and louis XVI periods has almost displaced the bid time evening blouse difficult to fit to many figures it Is not successful unless irreproachable in construction As the ultra nat eness of ls trimming makes it very expensive there Is not promise of a very long reign for the garment worn with a white cloth or guipure skirt however the effect with evening toilets Is very handsome coats of black suk covered with pompadour flowers aro worn with black |
