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Show ISSSSome . SSaKe3 8 . tgmk ' Dimity tteL toutu-cft Folds of Fabrio Correct for- M mfep CoUime Yioxild Poes I- 1-'--tv-Ji CiV mZX!Pfmm a &S& $&3s&m Crepe a Beautifier of Mourning Attire When Used With Discrimination Discrimina-tion -StreetCostumes of CorrectSimplicity-Airy Veils Preferred - What J May Not Be Worn. ' CHERE IS REASON for everything every-thing and tho individual who thinks that mourning apparel is an affectatiori or an expres sion of frivolity as souio people do seem to think makes a great mistake. mis-take. It Is very easy to say: "I should never wear black. I do not i believe in IL The custom savors of ; hypocrisy and is entirely against my principles." But when such a remark Is heard, It Is almost invariably saf6 to assumo that the speaker has never jU-i.gono down into tho valley of the shad-fiKf?'yow shad-fiKf?'yow with some loved one and come I back alone. Many a woman whoso I emphatic assertion that she "would m never wear black" is on record among K her friends and associates, never hcsl- tates an instant about donning the somber hue when grief and loss have come to her. Bereavement brings its understanding of the significance, tho protection and the beauty of mourning mourn-ing attire; its comprehension of the wisdom and tho kindliness of this old. old convention that Is one of the most beautiful of all conventions of dress. The woman who for the first tlmo finds herself robed In deep mourning. Is apt to be surprised and touched by the consideration and kindness she receives re-ceives everywhere. Let her, who has clung to street car straps for years in her parti-colored garb, but enter a public conveyance, robed in tho somber som-ber robes of bereavement, and half a dozen people riso to offer her a seat. Everywhere she goes It is tho same; kindness, courtesy, consideration meet her, where indifference and abruptness abrupt-ness met her in other days. Human nature when touched In its deepest susceptibilities is always kind and there Is nothing that appeals to human hu-man nature- like tho evldcnco of human hu-man loss and grief. So mourning attire at-tire brings comfort and protection to its wearer, and tho greater her personal per-sonal sorrow, and the moro acute her sensitiveness and her reserve, tho more does she appreciate this protection pro-tection and shelter afforded by her black garb. Mourning By No Means ITidcous. There Is no moro beautiful and distinguished dis-tinguished typo of dress than mourning mourn-ing dress when such attire is governed gov-erned not only by the canons of correctness cor-rectness and good taste, but also by fashion. Indeed, fashion has a great deal to do with tho pleasing quality of mourning or otherwise. But moro Important than fashion, is tho quality of good taste. Thero aro certain conventions con-ventions of correctness in mourning garb and fashion, ungulded by these is likely to overstep the mark in effects ef-fects too frivolous and too plcturcsquo to bo worthy of respect. And if thero Is one thing mourning attire should do, It should command respect! As a rule, mourning Is extremely becoming; becom-ing; there aro few cases when It Is not more becoming than colorful garb. One reason Is, that mourning garb al ways adds distinction to Its wearer; and it eliminates tho possibility of mistakes in colors or an overloading of color In the costumo. It makes Its wearer moro spirlluelle, loss material and it is the splrltucllo woman who possesses charm. And Incidentally It gives its wearer greater height and slcndorncss than she possesses In colored col-ored habiliments. Because it is an out-of-lhe-ordfnary and moro or less picturesque typo of apparel, it lends individuality and distinction. Even a woman of trivial personality, who would never be noticed, dressed in the ordinary costume of tho moment, bo-comes bo-comes an Interesting, Impressive and distinctive personage, garbed in rich and conventionally correct mourning attire. The Value of Crape Trimming. Thero aro women who say: "I would wear black, of course, if 1 had to but I would never wear crape." Strango it Is, tho aversion toward crape which one .encounters everywhere every-where In this country! In England and In France crape Is recognized for what it,!- : ,rlch and beautiful trlmmlnghat robs mourning attire of its heavy ugliness and lends it grace jjand clarm,- Crape, In many communities commu-nities on this side of tho water, is regarded., re-garded., as an affoctatlon even as an hypocrisy. As a matter of fact, crapo IS' a most valuable addition to tho mourning toilette and Is no more hypocritical hy-pocritical In expression than dull jet boads or white organdy neckwear. A woman who goes into mourning for a protracted season for. tho full two years period, or even for a single year, Is very foolish not to take advantage ad-vantage of the grace and distinctive quality of crape as a trimming. Dead black, without variety, becomes a burden bur-den to Its Wearer aftor tho first few months of sharp grief havo passed: while mourning apparel that is beautiful beau-tiful and pleasing is nover hard to wear. All the costumes pictured today to-day include crapo In their make-up; and each comes from an authoritative authorita-tive source. Each represents the best typo of mourning attire, according to modern standards of convention and good taste. First Mourning Should Be Severe. None or the pictures represent first mourning attire. Tho frocks, wrap and hats aro suitable for tho second six months of the first year, but not for the first six months. During this early period, tho -widow Is supposed to keep In deep seclusion; she does not go about at all, and would not appear at any public entertainment or oven at informal dinners as sho may do after . tho first six months have passed. Her veil will be worn over her face and no band of whlto will appear In her street costume, though touches of white at neck and wrists with tho house costume arc permissible. Sho will not go out of doors without somo sort or wrap, even It It be only a silken scarf In warm weather. Dignity and severity of line will mark all her garments, gar-ments, whether they be of rich fabrics, loaded with crape, or of inexpensive matorlals, guiltless of any trimming. In tho second six months, however, moro latitude is permitted. The widow wid-ow may now throw back hor veil, wearing a small faco veil over her face, and hor simple, somber gowns may be lightened In character by tho addition of floating chiffons, dull jot trimming, bands of silk matelasso and .ho like. And tho cut of these garments gar-ments may bo governed by fashionable fashion-able features of the moment. Tho dainty chiffon afternoon frock pictured pic-tured would not bo In good taste for first mourning Its evident leaning toward to-ward prottlness and charm would suggest sug-gest frivolity; but as later mourning It Is in perfect good taste. Tho long-waistcd long-waistcd tunic with transparent sleeves, Is of black chiffon cloth; the skirt of . dull black crepo do chine. Tho bands on the tunic are of black silk matelasso, mate-lasso, and collar and cuffs of white Georgette crepe. Another picture shows this same frock, accompanied by a different hat and by a beautiful wrap of silk embroidered crepo de chino, tho border of matelasso on the wrap matching the border on tho frock. Tho rippling yet fiat lines are most graceful and ono could scarcely imagine a handsomer mourning wrap than this ono of embroidered crepo do chine. The hat In the same picturo Is of black crapo with a narrow visor brim of while crepe. The shape Is one of the now styles for autumn and lends Itself to treatment In black and whlto mourning crape. In another picture Is shown a mushroom turban, a conventional style, made smart by loops and "wings" of black crape. Tho veil, intended for Jhe second year of widow's mourning. Is of Brussels not IjJ In rather heavy weave with a deep crapo border around three sides. This jH veil Is pleated closely and attached to tho hatbrim underneath. A faco veil IH of fine mesh, also bordered with crape,, Is drawn smoothly over tho face and jl fastened under tho pleated veil at the back. IH While Mourning For The Widow. jH It Is perfectly correct to wear whlto while In deep mourning after tho first two months but there are strict conventions governing the wearing of white mourning. Everything must be dead white not a touch of black Is permitted, and no glistening fabric may be donned. The hat in the pic-ture pic-ture Is of white crapo and the white chlfTon veil has a narrow crape edge fl This hat accompanies a severely plain tailored suit of whlto rep with coat to the knees and pleated skirt falling over the top of while buttoned walk-Ing walk-Ing boots. Black boots with such a costume would strlko an Incorrect note. Black and white may be worn Just at tho end of the mourning per-lod. per-lod. but never during the first year. When the young widow begins to go about a bit (and she may do this even while garbed in mourning raiment, provided she attends only informal af-fairs af-fairs and then with dignified and re-sorved re-sorved manner), she needs special frocks, correct according to mourn-ing mourn-ing standards but suitable for occa-slons occa-slons when tho presence of dcop mourning attire would put a damper upon the pleasure of others. The din-ner din-ner gown pictured Is a most dlstln-guished dlstln-guished model of dull faille silk with tunic and train of black chiffon. The black feather fan and dull Jet earrings aro In harmony with the costume. |
