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Show H 71TIDWINTER arrives, and arriv- H - ing, brings with it new and in- m teresting suggestions for the great H spring fashion changes. Smaller 1 v waists are glimpsed in such profu- H sion that the waists of. three months j from now are already predicted, while H the skirts, of course, are correspond- H ingly fuller. Braid is being substi- 1 tuted for fur on all the newest suits, Hl while already the kimono shoulder HU line is evident on some of the latest H French models. Poiret's return to H Paris is said to be responsible for 1 these kimono and raglan lines ap- i pearing once more on the fashion Hl horizon. LLLLm iBOEaassK LTIIOUGII there is no ladical change cvi- 1 J& I dent in the midwinter styles there arc, of H 8 Jf. course, n few ditferences already rnnnifest. H Tin J differences which it is just us well to note H MiSliSc nnd 6torc ln mind in order that one is not H vrSif t0 surprised with the appearance of the H first spring styles. In the first place, there i a decided H tendency towards smaller waists. This is especially no- H ticcablc in the coat suits, where the coat fits the waist H snugly and then flares out strikingly below. Faris dc- H crces that the correct jacket now should be twenty-si H inches in length. It is alo apparent in the patty docks, H with their tight fitting bodices, their narrow waist lines, H and their huge, billowy skirts, all of which give the ap- j pcarance of an exaggeratedly nipped in waist Hue. B In the second place, there is apparent a diminishing H amount of fur for trimming on coats and suits. A month H ago there was hardly a coat or a suit to be seen which H Lad not fur at the neck, the .sleeves, and about the hem H if the wearer in question could possibly afford it Xow 1 it is disappearing from the hem of skirts and suits and B wraps, aud although still seen about the collar and cuffs H of some of the newest models, is on other late models H The suit which is sketched on the left of the nccom- 1 panyiug page is an example of the losseniug quantity of H !ur. It has neither the fur about the bottom of th m khU nor does the collar use to the tips of the care, us H was invariably the case six weeks ago. Gi eater modern- H tion is seen in the flat collar and correspondingly less H throat troubles in the future. j Perhaps the most doininantly extreme note of the mid H season is the use of boopskirts and of capes. The silhou B ette of the period IS30 to 3 SCO is being incorporated into H the most modish garments of all the important French j Louses. The old ciinoliue sl.irts of our grandmothers' day H are here without the crinoline. For instead of being H artificially stiffened the majoiity of the skiits arc mnd- H enormously full and corded cither with heavy cotton coid- H ing or with light feathcrbone cording. H In some of the newest midwinter suits there la a dc- B eided leaning towards checks in the composite colors as B well as in the nlways popular black and white shepherd H design. These checks arc widely varying in size, some H of them being the huge block design and others meio pin j varieties. The woman, however, is wise who chooses H neither extreme. H Some of these suits are already bing trimmed with H handsome braids of mohair or of silk in all kinds of H novelty weave. Nothing is prettier, after all, than braids H for- the strictly tailored suit, the snmc kind of braid in- H deed that men's tailors used in bygone days when men H dressed less severely than they do now H Cheviots are also playing an important part in the m niidseason offerings. They arc so tremendously well liked H for Prts costumes and right now the sports costume j figures perhaps more prominently than any other in the M fashionable wardrobe. Serge is still as popular as ever. H positively refusing to be outdone by any of the newer B fabrics, and the winter exploitation of satin is be-" H ing carried to greater lengths than ever. Already H charming little suits 0 satin in the dark shades of j brown, blue, und black are being offered to the H public and these suit are almost without exception H braid trimmed. H It is interesting to note a fad that seems at first M glance to be a fashion retrogression rather than H an advancement. This is a kimono sleeve of three- J H quarter length which has already appeared on an' i K exclusive French model. It Is a fact, however, that h H the kimono has never been entirely out. raciely being h H temporarily displaced, and that probably the' return H of Poirct with his love of eastern lines and designs H Is more or less responsible for the new shoulder, B neck, and sleeve lines, B Speaking of sleeves, too, this Is a subject on which H much will be written with the arrival of spring, For M the last weeks and even months much fullness, has been B infused Into the sleeves; not so much at the top or, at H. the extreme bottom, but rather in the center, where cloth Hf could ne incorporated to suit the fancy of desiguer and B1 wearer. And now the newest sleeve on the newest coat j h a combination of raglan and kimono, with an effect j which is caught up in order to give tho look of a greater H' fullneEB under the arm. t For so months the petticoat has been right in the o , fashion whirl; in great demand, too, for a wide number M . of occasions. Xow it is needed in still another capacity, K anfJ that " for skating purposes. Indeed, already there B' Js the skating pctticont, as differentiated from other H petticoats. It must be of bright colored silk, it must B be full, and, too, it had best be fcotherboned a little. B Pussy willow taffeta is one of the favorite materials for m these Beating petticoats, and it coms in all the bright- H est, merriest colors. There arc petticoats of watermelon j 'pink, of cerise, of flame colored yellow, and of dashing M greens, and at every graceful movement of the skater the H frills and ruffles of these delightful petticoats bow for H favor from beneath the still greater fullness of the out- H side skirt. H Evening gowns show skirts from five to ten yards in' H width, and all are hung over foundation skirtn made H with the knee flounces. H Ribbons are being put to a great many uses, both for H afternoon and evening costumes. A charming dress that j is available for the afternoon dance and for any occasion H that takes place before the dinner hour is made in one H of the lovely shades that Is neither brown nor mole. H' The full round skirt is embroidered with gold threads H and the threads arc drawn In and out to give an effect M that is fascinating. Tho bodice, which is full and soft H 'at the shoulders, vith the yoke of embroidery across the H 'back, shows also a band of the same above the narrow nipped in Waist I I I I T "" ' snugly fitting ' ' i ' ' WmI jti-hH W rCOp . line and the full, 1 ' J '.4 " ' bodice, the email ------- v . , , Mf OTSfefeJ lower part of tho I . M . - . , . want, and the ' . WW JUWM V ths coat- - Ihm 1 '--''- modcratcly fuu r lfe1 I a belt- It ia open -at the front in "a deep U. It has a pretty chemisette of white with a 'touch of black to give character. The short skirt shows a great many variations, and some of them aro made with tho front cut a little shorter than the back in spite of the fnct that the line is. not always a becoming one. Draped skirts take up numberless forms. Broad hips there must be. A great many of the silks designed for f such use arc woven with finished edges that is to sa, with sohages that are attractive in themselves aud which are used without other trimming. A really marvelous mar-velous costume of white brocaded silver includes a skirt evolved from a straight piece draped so wonderfully that it really suggests intricate cut. A charming little dancing frock shows a full skirt of yellow silk brocade with litflc pinl; rosebuds, draped over a plain foundation, and this entire ovcrskirt is finishod with a straight selvage. It is rumored that in, aoe, ye" it . of on ll t T d,Btm" material gathered at its upper od, ht atripe f the artist's skill. PI dge and "auipuloted wlth There seetns to be no limit tn f), A Unut t0 the Possibilities of the - ' ' I I -osfauractiv1","1 Sk'lrt' U f thc " from the wo 7? "' " l'CCeUt -Tbibition lhttt 1 5 cMffon shoX i Pis' Was o rosc the hem t i? gigI,: dned fl0Ues of vclTet "bbou fr" f0 "on 711' ThG skirt -as hung over a found j th trimmed win, m and thc corSttc ' velvet l Ja -ondel C3,f 1IghtCr color' It really ,3c g |
