Show r V n 0 j THE NEW EVENING T GOWNS Gnarls 16 9 L 1 1 I Owner it raUB Fagg a Bj By HELEN FALCO J J I JET F y k I t tI I Empire Modes Appear Again in Ballrooms I But Not the Extremely High Waist Line Nor the Exaggerated Ex ed and Eccentric cc Hobble i Skirt Graceful Lines fl I 1 HE othor other day I was looking I 1 THE through somo soma old Illes Hies of or a maca ma a t I wont tell leU you OU what I magazine for you ou would probably probably ably sniff and particularly at nt some f of or George Georgo Du Illustrations 1 And one of ot the first was a caricature 1 of oC the prevailing Is fashions of o othe tho the day daya a gentle scoff of the tho cartoon cartoonist 1st at the tho skirts then worn skirts so tight that their wearers could hardly walk In fact tho woman In the car cartoon cartoon cartoon toon Is IB represented as saying saing that she sho L bad Lad been obliged to lo rebuild her house bouse I because she could not climb stairs lu In Inthe f the tho gowns then Imposed by b fashion II And that dearly beloved was in the tho eighties I ISo So you see seo all this pother about tho P t hobble skirt Is not so astoundingly l now non DO Furthermore It teaches us that I tho the annual editorial alarm about boul tho the 11 garments wo aro threatened with Is ns nR usual a II trine trills overdone Every eer sea Sla season 1 son sou we have lIno the tho same sarno panic The Tho climax o or of absurdity in iu hoots tho the wise Ise old owl la In f his editorial sanctum It Is customary f to call It a sanctum though If I you rou I were In one you JOU might ml ht have Im a different name namo for IL it lint But J U If you ou I kop kosp your our eyes oes open you ou will see that the really reap absurd In lu feminine apparel I IB is BO so s o o that It actually cruses causes a crowd when It Is seen on all tho the street So on tho whole wo we dont need to tobo tobo tobe bo be afraid of o having hayIng to make ourselves either ridiculous or 01 uncomfortable In our desire to conform with the tho modes It Is IB truo true that the Rue de dc la In Paix has hassent hassent hast t sent out some Game rather rathel bizarre designs I In the tho way wa of o hobble skirts But they the never will be bo really popular with American women particularly nice I American romen 1 any an more marc than thor they are aro with tho French women who arc are actually of ot the tho monde Houses Mouses that rely roly on the tho patronage of o the refined women of o New York are arc not showing p It I models of or tho the extremely narrow skirt From two to two and a half halt yards Is considered the tho correct width at tho 1 horn homo and It Is possible that this will willbo L t I be bo Increased In later models I Latitude for all Styles I i And lest anybody should get tho the t Idea den that there will be bo a bizarre note noto II In this winters fashions I want to disabuse ills buse their minds at once One can form an excellent opinion from rom the tho models that havo have been shown GO so cotar far tar and with a II few exceptions they thoy d are charming Furthermore there Is ut eat latitude In fa them so BO that any woman can cnn pick out what Is becoming to her ber More Moro than this you cannot ask aek of ot tho autocrat Fashion For evening gowns designers have havo for tor tho the most part gono back to the Empire period once on co more Not Kat tho the extreme modes as seen In the court dresses of ot Napoleons Napoleon tine t no but tho the modified style In fact tact thoy they affect more moro tho the costumes costume such M as our ancestors of a that ora era wore In Inthe Inthe Inthe the daytime In this they the are different from rom tho the fashion of o a II couple of or sea sen eons sons ago ngo which was on the moro classic lines of tho the court dresses of or Empire times although both modes are aro modeled on the beautiful statu lines linea of or ancient Greek robes robe The Tho coming seasons evening gowns will not spoil tho the figure as did the tiro extremely ones The girdle la Is I barely raised above tho the I normal waist line Nearly Nearl all the bolts belts and n d girdles are aro much wider than they thoy were during tho the summer cummer Sheer antI and gauzy gauz materials will be bo very verr popular popular lar as well as those used In tho the models described bolow below The Tho vogue of o veiling yelling ono one material with another or with several others still sUll continues Chantilly Mechlin and an Spanish laces Inces are aro also going to ha be In lu great grent favor Laco Lace net too will be much worn and chiffon silk SUli voile volio silk crepe silk and silk over satin slUn will bo ho found In great prou profusion profusion I Isian sion sian i p r 1 i f 1 H 3 o a r r v y F 6 W WJ J Seen In Paris A fascinating gown worn at ata a 0 Parisian theatre suggests a bolero Jacket In Ia the laco lace used to lo trim tho the corsage Two 10 wide straight strips of oC lace laco that cross the shoulders aro are fastened by tho the upper corners to Liberty Libert satin belts bells It fringed with tho the top of ot tho the high black velvet yel t girdle at tho the back long black velvet ends fall tall r nu r I ti tiP P Lr F r a n re f fI C I rY rYr f r tK A iv r h r fir I i iI W vM fl h i 1 0 Vy V 1 i vF 1 7 11 1 tr l lI I 1 r r iL ll j L r 1 1 G ti 1 c cr t p r ar v va a 1 1 ku 1 t r J 1 r tl I g f i Z m 14 TV c ff 11 JA 1 o I Yr Jt b to tho the hem of or the skirt shirt Tho Th elbow sleeves aro prettily composed of or up upward Upward upward I ward turning frills of or fine lino taco laco An adorable gown of or deep rich red Vel Velvet Velvet Velvet vet worn by ono ona of or the smartest French actresses has Its round neck finished with a deep collar of or lace laco shaping points Silvery Slivery grey broy sliver silver tho the uneven ends fall low Iowan on tho the skirt It has a n medieval air air J v 0 if this quaint gown with Its roh rIoh oh laco taco collar contrasting so beautifully with tho the velvet the tho long tight sleeves that point polut over the fingers lingers and Its scant trailing skirt Tho The same sarno actress wears In another act a gown with an extremely pretty corsage 0 Tho The neck a 0 tiny tin bit pointed In trout 15 IB Js edged with a band of oC galon salon that i lengthens on the tho shoulder controlling i tho of or the corsage gathered 9 again at the tho waistline under a belt of ot black varnished leather The Tho alcoves that seem acorn cut In one with tho the corsage loose and plain at tho the top are ao gathered just below tho the elbow In Into Into into to a deep tight wrinkled puff A youthful The air nil of at youth accentuated by b the manner of ot her hor hair hairdressing hairdressing dressing Gathered softly In her nock neck falling tailing In loose folds over her hor cars It IB La banded by a 11 black ribbon that ties lies In a big bow boor In the tho neck Deck t r rf X j t f r The models Illustrated have havo been he en selected for their appeal to smart women of oC good taste who avoid ex extremes extremes bemes of or For the tho Tall Brunette Brunetto Tho The seated figure wears a n gown of o white while crepe meteor with the tho skirt drapery and bodice of or while chiffon cloth Tho fichu ichu and tunic are arc bor bordered bordered dered with Jeweled laurel wreaths In gold goltl and the dainty slippers and flowers at tho the front of at tho the bodice aro are i Spectacular StyleS Have av LIttle Vogue I t i 11 3 1 N I 1 c T l r 1 i 1 i r I Ii f I I 1 V rS v d di i I also of ot gold It Is la a II creation Ideally suited to a n tall stately brunette and would show up her olivo tinted skill to perfection Tho The same Bame gown could bo be l o admirably reproduced In soft sort sea se green with tho the skirt drapery draper and bodice of o chiffon cloth of ot the tho same Brame color The fichu and tunic could be bordered with Jeweled Ivy 1 leaven leaved l In silver tho the slippers and flowers of or o f course courso being also of silver sliver tone This soft mingling of or green and silver r IB is exceedingly attractive to tho the eye oyo and especially charming when whon worn by br the I statuesque blond lond of ot the Juno typo To the graceful woman who likes es classic poses In the tho manner of or tho the theone ono one In the Illustration with her hands bands clasped behind her back the following toilette tollette will surely appeal Tho The material is of ot muus do sole sale put together at the waist with two thick cords over oyer I which tho the mou Is shirred Cream colored lace forms a deep bor border border border der around the skirt and trims the r I bodice One could picture to ones self the maid of or many manya man t ta a II story thus thua arrayed and see sec the rosy tints of oC the gown reflected in A Aher her cheeks checks as she sho moves with queenly queen queenly ly grace graco through the minuet minuett This gown Is la also very ery beautiful In the many delicate shades of or which leading Now York bouses aro are displaying and from which It Is not difficult to make a n choice For the Debutante The Tho drawing at the tho extreme right Is of o n a debutante you will look loo far tar farand farand and havo have a hard bard task to find a moro more charmingly suitable creation for a girl with her bel youthful lines linea It Is of or golden chiffon the tho bodice and skirt both draped drap d In graceful folds The rne sleeves and aud are arc formed ormed of or heavy h vy gold cord embroidery embroider Besides is showing oft off her slim young oung figure this scheme schema la Is admirably calculated to match the delicate oE oX her lIeI skin sidn It lu is seldom one sees a II gown ao so splendidly adapted to a n girl because most models are aro too heavy and too old and often orton moro more suited to tho the mother than to tho the wearer One Ono so frequently hears tho remark at a II ball How lovely that girl looks In white whito Now this is usually very truo true and ull all very nice but It Jt IB la rather hard on tho the girl never nover to wear anything else elsa In the sprigged white l I muslin days Ina of ot our grandmothers It would never have havo occurred to them to demand clemand anything different But t now tho the girl must needs o havo have variety In her wardrobe and colored gowns particularly suited to tobar her bar ago and style are hailed balled with Joy JO I jar jarAnd 1 And whilo while we wo aro willing to search In our grandmothers chests for dainty bits of ot rare lace with which to em embellish fi hellish bellish our costumes the sprigged r muslin of ot ancient times Is only V a abrought brought out to gazo at ot with amuse amusement r mont ment or requisitioned when a n fancy t I dress hall ban Is Ie on hand handA 0 f fA A Charming Ch r j jot Of ot tho the other two figures one ones Is in a a I gown of ot cashmere do sole solo In draped 0 princess effect You will notice that the has bas a n cascade edge edgo which Is trim trimmed trimmed I med with motifs mours of or satin The under underbody r body Is tucked to represent a yoke and Y the cuffs cuffe aro are of at Venetian lace This Ii costume could bo be reproduced In dif dlf different C ti ferent terent shades of ot the tho material It would be bo particularly effective o In pale i blue with the tho motifs moUrs In that soft I t t grayish blue commonly known OB DB it pastel pastol and the cuffs of ot one ono of ot those 1 creamy cream laces so much In vogue Ono One I s cannot help thinking how hov becoming b this would bo be to the J young matron who has just Juat crossed the boundary dividing girl girlhood girlhood hood hool from womanhood Tho Narrow Skirt r Tho rho fifth firth illustration Is of or a model in III black Chantilly lace over oer a white O satin You will perceive that this Is ls an nn American modification of or the extreme style stylo known as the tho hobble The band that confines can lInes the tho skirt the and nd tho the trim trimmings trimmings on the corsage aro are of oC black satin A 1 largo large rose of oC pink tullo tulle on tho black garter band baud produces a charming color effect although wom worn women women en of or extremely severe taste might prefer to omit this This of or course courso Is too loo heavy hea a l dress dross to ho bo worn by byall any all but Jut a n rather largo large person as only t ta a woman of oC commanding appearance and Imposing presence Is IB able ablo to carry cart off ort effectively a lace Ince gown of or this |