Show M r t I I e r ItU THE SPRING GOWNS I Iby tun na r by b b Pd DY L Ls 1 hi I Teat s 7 t I I t r v faI serer Latest New York Models Quite Tailor Made in Outline Heavy Embroidery Coming Into Vogue NOr T m that the eye cje has lias become accustomed accustomed x tomed lo to the slender outlines o of skirls and ami sleeves sieves we can cm smile smil at th the exaggeration of description with which thick these were heralded am and the thc caricature drawings supposed su posed to rep represent represent resent some sonic of the advance a ance models I Iwas It was with wilh the lie same ridicule and it seems I with more reason that the around skirts skirls and balloon sleeves of o per perhaps haps fifteen years cars ago were introduced and if we compare the fashion plates o othe of the two periods we must admit that Irk 1009 shows a decided advance in in the way twos o of beauty and good taste A fitted sleeve is is not necessarily a tight sleeve It d ma may follow the contour of the arm arnt without sacrificing cither either comfort com or appearance Not so much uch the sleeve is as the waistline has been the troublous question of the thc Empire models Ever Every description accents the so called hip lc less s figure and when your jour our mirror mirror shows shots the thc possession of very cry evident hips you jou ou feel feci these gowns arc are not for There may be a protest at the sug suggestion suggestion suggestion for increasing the size size of the waist aist but that is is a part of the plan winch whiten if carried out will proc prove its own wisdom The same arguments ar of or or in increased in increased creased waist measure were u used mcd cd when hen the line tine was introduced into inlo the corset but the thc result was such sucha a general figure improvement that that feature was ws forgotten Remember that the thc wl is is not the entire figure and that a generally symmetrical effect is is to be he referred preferred lo to loa loa a i fixed w This This much mouth of good work in m the thc cause of good looks u lias has the Empire vogue done though it re rc required reI I demonstration demonstration to prove proc it In Instead arr stead of oi a stout woman getting herself into a costume or coat that curves cunes in at atthe atc c rt the thc back baek and sides to the smallest pos possible possible i sible c waist then out again to full round hips let out the corset until the thc line linc is isa is isa U a gradual not a sharp cne cw ve and have hac the garment fit easily casill It Q ct will viii look ilm at Il a figure in III in what is 15 knot 11 Yas as a ION fitted coat where the waistline is is only tte suggested not defined ou will recognize a 1 nearer approach to lo slenderness than had seemed possible A AThe db The Waist Line pe Skirts cut cul with the high waistline arc becoming more popular every enry da day They rhey I must be mounted on a girdle foundation that lint fits closely closel but the skirt portion is s snot not Ilot darted dart cd in in to a snug fit it il hangs eu cas easily casIn In ily il from tune the top lop of the girdle irdle support When hen an outside girdle of o ribbon on or silk H is is used it is is drawn snugly at al the upper use edge but bUl left moderately loose at the thetta tta lower lower which is is really the regulation sit waistline Though the Empire Em ire gown am proper is long enough to tic lie on the ground round all around this length is is impracticable Iff for aft any lJ but gowns for indoor rt w wear car The shorter lengths arc not awk aw awkward k ward ward though the average walking length tip this season is somewhat longer lonser than last le year car the skirt just escaping the tilee ground evenly all around Nor is the width so great and gored GE skirts are arc more often seen than plaited models Where a suit formerly meant pea two pieces a skirt and coat the popular ea Jar lar ar form fonn now is called a cos costume aek muse tume wilh with waist skirt and ann coat match matching matching ilie ing The waist is not necessarily of the the same ante material as the skirt nor need it be actually attached to it ita t a Net dyed in all the staple colors is is perhaps first favorite for waists It har harmonizes monizes for this purpose with practically practically any my other material and can be ue ev evi j j r ra a r rs s rr I r i 1 r rt t T i 54 y l t a NI It i y d j l le m y v W 1 Q 1 e r SV h i rw S 1 I t t Y J iJ ii I r t f fr r r ti 1112 r s K 1 7 r y L 4 r If i lh rt 1 I 1 i t II J GORGEOUS EMBROIDERY E ON NET IsET 1 dyed to match any shade This dyeing is is not difficult and may be dour done at home The rile extremely fashionable sleeves are arc arelong long even extending well over the thc hand but it seems scents likely that thal for midsummer at al least last comfort will make the three quarter or elbow length popular Long Coats In Lightweight Gowns Long coals 40 and lengths anti and in ill the thc models arc are being l shown shon for spring and will probably hold their favor faor through the summer es Cs especially in in linens pongees and similar lightweight li ht materials Sleeves on these coats coats are arc of the long kind and have very cry en little atlie at al the arm armhole armhole hole holc Small notched collars similar to those on mens coats and the collarless finish will twill bolh both be used the latter es cs especially with the ruches of almost ever every imaginable material now represented among neck accessories In woolens there arc are the transparent fabrics in in one class the voiles end and tissues tissues tissues sues that must be draped over a suitable lining 1 and the heavier goods goads go ds v which Inch are arc usually made with lining linin in ut in the waist portion only In these ld heavier avier fabrics though they arc are of the lightest possible weight the smooth satin finish is is best liked for more dressy dress w wear ear Broadcloth vi it r rl ti r tv v t 4 t i 4 1 11 i t tS ti ti tIt W S 5 5 ts rt i i 1 1 It c t p r f r 4 1 Jt v 1 1 t s tt v r rT Y i iS I S V t n nL J Jf f cr j pJ I L JL L 1 t A WHITE WITH RAT TAIL TRIMMING THE rIm NEW STRAIGHT LINE COAT TIm THE NEW MEDIEVAL MODE IODE WITH OR WITHOUT TRAIN TRAINhas has not been displaced t but there is a I our grandmothers were familiar famili ors with a a high satin finish this revival c al of a material with w whose whole bode name nanie I nela cloth It is produced 1 I in n plain plait col season on satin are arc shown 4 J rY cw sag L U J 1 t THE PEACOCK PEACOCK GOWN Mohair seems as certain a standby as broadcloth and though the preference tins this spring is for a Si 1 single cloth in n one of the staple or newer shades certain diversity is gained gamed by variations in in the waving caving w as in the checked effect woven into the and serges with herringbone stripes Voiles in in plain black and black bl lck and arc are likely to find increasing favor a and iid some of these throe are arc shows in bordered goods These arc the ma maten material I ten tenal il with a woven border on one edge Considerable dressmaking skill is is necessary sary sar ry m in producing a n gown gon from bordered material for that reason they the will till probably probably ably never be universally universal popular c Tho and Summer On thc these c fine transparent voiles the selvage is is often employed d as a decorative feature a tunic drapery draper drap ry for instance instead of being bemS hemmed n led will be he finished with the selvage left on for that pur purpose purpose purpose pose It is n a part of the th dressmakers art artto artto to lo study her material that she ma may mav make the most most of all its possibilities Even cn if I Ithe the time has not yet jet ct conic come to wear cae cotton colton fabrics the thc forehanded is is think thinking ing illg of them and this summer she will see sec the return of an old favorite cotton sateen influenced probably b by the success I I I 1 of satins salins and woolens Cotton crepes cr pes too will iII follow the lead Icador of or the handsome silk crepes cr pes being m made ide up into handsome gowns for the spring These weaves weave from front the richest silk to flu J most inexpensive cotton arc ideal r Poplins Poplin and md their near relative H pique arc He used for both bolh children s md and Ladies costumes and in in cotton fabrics of tins this substantial weave the costume will twill develop capitally the coat I being cut long and trimmed with self seC td d and pearl buttons Some t bordered piques p qu s arc are shown but they the will I I 1 ct probably he be confined principally principal to chil chill childrens drens wear wear Printed piques pi s arc comparatively new especially ep s the designs that alternate a solid color with a floral e stripe both on hi e ground There arc the cotton tissues sonic some of them n a i e vvo voyen cn combination of the finest fin cst cotton I I d dand and and silk and with stripes and dots clots of the I silk thrown throw the dull I n up on ground I is being pushed flushed somewhat into the thc background now no by the thc rattail y yg braid which Paris and New York dress dressmakers dressmakers I i makers are nrc putting on smart spring j gowns This new rattail braid is is notch much lj 11 more supple and pliable than sou tache and more store intricate embroidery embroider effects eff S 5 may maj ma be achieved with it Its pure white satiny lustre is is very vcr effective in m in this case Y with a costume of or white mo mohair mohair 10 S hair The plain straight lines of this tins gown sown arc are extremely smart and the heavy I h Icord cord ornament at the front is is s a new feature The aun linen and anti mohair tw tw I piece suits suits now liow being built t bv UV custom I I tailors for summer wear show shot very I straight lines thigh define the figure scarcely at all All the new linen coats are arc quite tc long lon coming to the knee or below and the skirt beneath is is very ery I I simply cut in iii a gored model embroideries make a smart trimming for forthe forthe forthe the linen or mohair coat and ond skirt suit snit and in in the case of a washable suit snit the should be hc well shrunken before being sewed to the fabric r The Medieval Modo The ecclesiastical styles borrowed from the Middle Ages show stoles stoics surplices and other vestment effects brilliantly wrought with iridescent beads heads sequins I and the like The embroidered dered net stoles stoics or on the pink satin ball gown shown sho n in in the illustration arc are laced together with fine finc gold cords and Ind the embroideries arc done with ith iridescent cent pink beads m in round round and anti oblong shapes the flowers being made ma e of silver and gold ribbons padded into relief effect Over Ocr the shoulders back hack and imd host bust are arc garlands of pale pink and silk roses The peacock gown own shown here derive r rits its name from the pale peacock blue col color color h hor or of this gown and an the th embroidered I motif like a spread peacock tail at the 1 end of the tram train t The material is a ben b n 1 galine silk in in the light pea peacock peacock cock tone and anti there arc s and amI t embroidered patterns m in bronze bronc browns brown brownsand brownsand and darker peacock blue and green grcen shades shade The alms bag hag hung hunS at the side b by long lon chains challis of silk cord is is a de decidedly decidedly dei new ne v style feature fellure just lust i coming cominI out in to Paris The Thc most extreme features of the new medieval med cal mode which is is prophesied as a follower of the fashions arc embodied in in the costume shown here herewith herewith herewith with Here is is the long fitted bisque basque with skirt below it the square neck and close shoulder line and notably the thc elaborate embroidery done dente with silk and braid on net This gown a walking costume of rc re reseda E seda green mohair has a tram train attach attachment anent ment which when fastened to the drop skirt by means of snap catches changes chal J the little walking dress ress into a trailing P afternoon frock j r jr |