Show PARIS CEASES TO DICTATE IN VOr WOMEN'S ENS EN'S DRESS TO AMERICANS Ar Leadership In Modern Styles Coming to This Country REASON IS GIVEN GB EN Absence of SeYe Severe e Blow to French Dressmakers BY fly WILLIAM WILLIAU ElItE BIRD IRD Special Dispatch to The Th Stand Stand- ard Examiner ard Copyright 1927 By Dy The Th Consoli Consoli- Consolidated dated Press Association Feb The 5 5 Tho season of spring fashion openings now wido open In Paris reveals that Paris Pari Parisis Is losing Its grip on the monopoly of dress design I Leaders of ot the Haute Couture confess confess that It is a a disappointing season American buyers are ar far Icca numerous than usual an antI their orders are far smaller Al- Al Although Al Although though high prices combined with present high exchange rate of the franc are partly to blame there Is III another and deeper sea sea- reason season con rea-con son The simple fact tact la Is that Amer- Amer Amerlean Amer American ican lean women today are demand demand- demanding Ing leg ing American designs and In Inmany Inmany Inmany many cases cues preferring them to Paris designs regardless of o price REVOLUTION IN IX DF DESIGN The evolution of the outdoor type I in is held to blame for this Bobbed hair short skirts low low low- low heeled heeled shoes have ha brought about a revolution In dress designing rhe 1927 type Is dl distinctly Amer Amer- AmerIcan Amer- Amer Amerlean American ican lean It Is the exact antithesis of the dainty fanciful delicate ornamental type that has been regarded for tor generations AS Preachy Frenchy I French dressmakers are not so much following their own Ideas as trying to follow tollow the Idea that has gained headway In AmerIca When not actually Imitating American models they are at least endeavoring to produce something with an American flare FAIL rUI TO SATISFY The results are not wholly sat satisfying French rench designers are at their best when doing their own owA original work not when hen endeavoring endeavoring oring to adapt their Ideas to for for- foreign for foreign eign tastes Buyers look at many of ot the cot cot- collections col collections with disappointment We e can design this sort of thing just justo justas o as well in New York they ex- ex exclaim ex exclaim claim or better perhaps The trouble Is la that all modern dresses are arc modelled on sports costumes Even party frocks might be worn appropriately on the golf links If It made up In another material And the th sport craze hasn't yet lilt France rance with the same force as It has hit bit America French Frenchwomen Frenchwomen Frenchwomen women still deman demand 1 some ems ems- orna ornamentation some little elaborate elaborate- elaborateness elaborateness elaborateness ness about their clothes cerise cerise- conse consequently the designers between the home homo and anti the foreign mar mar- mar markets are In a dilemma Another fact tact Is la that so many hundreds Americans of thousands of Amer Amer- Anier- Anier leans have hayo visited Paris since tit war that the Is somewhat rubbed of off Of f maintaIns ln Of course Paris still main main- m the supremacy and will con con- con continue to do so 80 for many years But Instead of ot originating or the therole therole therole role ot of Paris Is Js Increasingly of correcting and Improving what baa lIas been originated elsewhere American design as yet lacks finesse and too often Is guilty ot of glaring errors of taste and tech tech- technique tech technique I American designers are arc not ratified ha happy until Paris ha has rati rati- rati fled fied with sith reservations or amend amend- amendments amendment amendments ments ment ments their creations The severest blow that the Paris couture coutur has suffered Is the disappearance from most roost gar gar- monte ments garments gar of ot all ornamentation So long as dresses were covered i with embroidery or lace or other frills and furbelows It was wall practically Impossible to compete compel with Paris The large number of skilled workers In the field of o dress dres or ornamentation here gave Paris an absolute monopoly But Dut hand band handwork work Is li disappearing and so are arthe the tho llan hind hand workers Thousands of women who used to do embroidery embroidery ery and trimming for the big bli dressmakers lost their Jobs when embroIdery went out of fashion They have had to find other work worl and today It would be bo difficult to get them back again It if fashion switched to ornamental designs |