Show r f S 'S Yi otia r p c I Io o r rS S AiS I Ir NT j r 4 4 J all 11 k 1 J H 1 1 a r 1 8 a l ib BB 5 B TM I J Mr- Mr l I Bj I OJ i i j v I 11 r Ii cy F r rr I y t s R Rt Rcy V A dress with witha a s a t M lion tion of the Orient in its R A j sash and sleeves Iy fu embroidered in lac lac- lac R k i quer guer red gold black and andA A white on periwinkle blue crepe roma is extremely mart I y r K w w y Circles of several s Sl Sleeves of f b bright ht eeves 0 rIg shades sacs h d of 1 0 green L LK 1 yellow ye ow Cl on try taffeta are 1 gayly g a a PP 9 M R rr I que gued d WI with th go gold ld r r WIth taffetas 0 of f t tinsel Inse I th thread rea d t to 0 e r r sy vivid shades are y the full sleeves of R M pleasantly com e k a bin e d with coma a i the green crepe X afternoon frock simple frock of navy on an the left navy blue faille I I I I II rT HE age of the sleeveless the the- sleeveless daytime I T THE dress ia Is past Now when the smartly dressed woman may choose from any number of silhouettes she shows chows the tho distinction of her taste most expressively in the sleeves of her herI I frocks The novelty of being correctly gowned whether one is trimly tailored or daintily bouffant has palled and now the tho woman of discrimination knowing that she ahe can do pretty much as she pleases disdains to concentrate solely on the structure of her gowns She frequently decks herself In dresses of almost nun-like nun severity showing her daring her ber chic her eccentricity eccentricity her taste in the sleeves I Tight fitting simple sleeves heavily embroidered sleeves flowing oving sleeves sleeves of gay chiffon and crepe roma sleeves of satin sleeves of lace sleeves caught at the wrists by shin shin-ings by pleats by narrow tailored bands by hold bold broad cuffs sleeves covered with of silks taffetas and even pieces of felts and velvets of rainbow there hues there is no limit in variety Sleeves Sleeve's Sleeves that are like the breath of the wind sleeves thaC tha attract with the bril brilliance liance of a flaming torch sleeves cleeves that are winsome sleeves that are daring 1 In fact the sleeve of the pr present nt day gown is ia the signal of its wearers wearer's taste the distinguishing note of her charm For day to-day I have designed four gowns to demonstrate this new fancy faney of the mode They are all similar in outline and they are all suitable for morning or afternoon wear Some gome are a little more formal in tone than others but in general they have the same feeling and show excellently how the character of frocks of almost iden iden- iden- iden identical identical I design can be affected b by extremely different sleeves y The Tho first fint and undoubtedly the most formal is of black satin Sheaf like in inline inline A AThe line it has haa a tiny finely pleated rume rufo around the bottom of the skirt pro J f y x T ing like a brief apology l-apology r apology for its it severity erity s Below the ba bateau ba- ba bateau neckline is a triangular triangular insert of heavy silver lace t through h r 0 ugh which is drawn and tied two long I t rea mer s of black satin This lace triangle is J the key to the f sleeves long and tight fitting and joined to the dress by broad bands of tire same name lace The sleeves fit wen well over the wrists and ate are elaborately embroidered with silver braid To wear with it it I have draped a close fit fit- fitting fit fitting ting turban of black grosgrain rib ribbon bon and pierced pierced the side of it with witha a pin of rhinestones and jet Colonial pumps of pat pat- patent patent ent leather with large cut steel buckles complete com com- complete com complete a costume r F K 9 r site Bite in detail and perfectly blended Another dress is of the loveliest com com- combination of shades navy and periwinkle blue with in its decorations a dash of lacquer red and a faint tracery of gold and black and white This dress a straight straight slip alip of navy blue crepe roma is draped in the front and nd held by a bow of periwinkle blue of the same material The ends reaching to the bottom of the skirt are banded with lacquer red and embroidered in a chain stitching of black and white and gold A quaint animal motif confirms the Oriental suggestion of color tion The sash duplicates Bates utes in each detail the sleeves which are snug at the shoulders and flow ow abruptly to a wide kimono line at the wrists The severe close dose fit fit- fitting fit fitting ting neckline is relieved by a shaped V-shaped cording of the navy blue A smartly tailored hat of periwinkle blue felt I simply ban banded d e d with grosgrain ribbon adds the perfecting touch to this stunning arrangement The use of navy blue bluela is ia always so satisfying to the woman of dis- dis discriminating dis discriminating criminating taste that I find myself using it whenever I wish to express a de- de degree de dc degree gree of restraint In the tone of a creation When the darker blues are blended with va- va various va various rious Ii lighter g h to r shades had es of of the thet t same lame col color r the the the-Ma result Is one of simple and ele tie cle- gant pant dignity This H is well wen shown inthe In 4 the dress where the periwinkle blue was us d with the navy For a gayer mood however contrasts slight or intense are extremely desira desira- desirable desirable ble Black and white is notably the most striking of contrasts just juat as different tones of the same samo color are those sooth sooth- soothing soothing ing to the eye Therefore if we are in a fairly con eon conservative but happy mood we wish som some some- something some something thing neith neither r exotic nor dull To satisfy this desire I have made a adress adress adress dress that cannot fail tail to arouse rouse admira admira- admiration admiration tion For it I have used navy blue faille and for its chief though not sole decora decora- decoration decoration tion chiffon sleeves of canary yellow They are very full and are prevented Ise kr w we t from Sowing flowing like l the periwinkle I t blue ones by a 5 narrow band that ij i 1 j t catches them in tat at the wrist They tare are joined at the shoulders 3 b shoulders by nu nar- nar narrow nr row row ba bands b a n d s of flame ame yellow and g green r e e n taffeta stitched in gold r These bands ands and s similar I mil a r ones f about the narrow pointed neckline are echoes of the vivid design of the sleeves leeves t The brilliance of the tho y yellow e 11 0 w chiffon is intend intensified fied fled by pieces of taffeta of gay colors colon stitched in gold To break the complete severity of the dress I have bave bloused it slightly about the hips and encircled it witha with a narrow belt From the neck flows a wide double jabot reaching to the tho bottom of the tho skirt The Tho hat for this dress must naturally be quite right and in in order to keep the tho spir spirit t of the frock not too conventional For this reason I have chosen a hat of black felt a tri trifle e larger than the usual extreme cloche and shaped it in becom becom- becoming becoming ing folds off the face It has for its only ornament a 11 Striking pin of brilliants thereby combining the tho same note of conservatism and daring that is preserved in th the dress But one may be gay without loss of dignity There is nothing more charm charm- charming charming ing than poise is i it is cheerful This is proved to perfection in a dashing little frock of pistache faille crepe a color and material that herald spring and youth It has the long waist that slender lines lend themselves to so eagerly crushed close to the figure with a belt of the crepe fastened in front with a 11 buckle of deep green shell The neck is bateau and its simplicity i enhanced byll by a full jabot that reaches to the belt where a second and larger jabot flows slightly over the he edge of the tho r toe L Lr Lc Lb Lk r c A b k a i t skirt It is in the sleeves i that the dress achieves i W its greatest distinction t They are slender dender and A f Jwell well fitted until they y w reach reach the elbows where they become great bas bas- basketlike basketlike like ket-like bags caught in sr at the wrists I by small culTs cuffs holding it would seem a 11 a joyous collection of rare fruits For this is the effect given n by a vari van van- vari shaped collection collection of taffetas of gracious shades of greens and gold lightly caught with shining spangles One somehow thinks of dew on a fresh green greengarden greengarden greengarden garden and feels in looking that this is truly the tM spirit of spring A dress so delicately triumphant needs perfect accessories to complement its gay ing ingenuousness I have made a hat for tor it of felt the same cool shade of green and not to de- de detract de detract tract from the charm of the dress have bave trimmed the hat only with a simple bow of felt on one side where the narrow brim lifts easily from the face The shoes of a costume can mar or complete it it So to keep in the spirit of this I find simple opera pumps of biscuit kid the most blending of all leathers I J 1 This after aler afternoon noon dress of 01 black 1 satin has tight sleeves i elaborately trimmed with I gleaming silver em em- em embroidery and lace The lace motif is repeated on the bodice f 7 There are many more moree e exquisite x qui 15 i t e desi designs s of sleeves some of which I Ishall Ishall Ishall J shall show later on but this collection to t to o- o od day d a y gives I think a charming and varied choice L There are four corn com com- completely cj different moods r expressed in the trea tread ment of the f four ur dresses Though their general out outlines lines are similar the char character acter of the dresses is emphatically af- af affected af affected by the type of the sleeves Crepe roma will undoubtedly be most popular not only for sleeves and trim trim- trimming trimming ming but for entire frocks because of its graceful softness and sheer quality Chiffon as the season progresses will naturally hold a Ii forward position while the heavy beavy silks such as satin and crepes will give way to the more delicate mate mate- materials materials rials Printed and figured crepes and chiffons chiffons fons will vie with the plain silks for first place Taffeta increases in favor Crisp and cool it is suitable both for frivolous frocks and those that are severely tailored In deep blues and blacks or in orin any o of the gayer colors figures and plaids taffeta offers a wide field of choice to the well dressed woman |