Show Choose the Dress re res s That Assures Your Youth l oJ I By By BYI SARA MAR MARSHALL HALL COOK 1 T W x- x f 1 Miracle Gowns Subtract Years Fears Fads Can Never Do What Sound Styles Should Always Accomplish sh is the keynote of sus suc suc- success success YOUTH Y susY cess in dress A gown gon which can perform the miracle of the subtraction of years ears cannot fail Call to be a best seller One may work completely around this idea trying tr ing out all sorts of new themes themes- A fad may arise such as the Egyptian craze but no fad can produce a style haYing having the appeal ofa of a costume which makes a woman appear young oung w actually seeming to do so The creating of such a model is not as simple as it appears for a woman may be made ridiculous l if she is middle middle aged by wearing the clothes suitable for an eighteen eighteen- old old eal-old grit gul And yet such clothes may be modified so that it is pos pos- possible pos tible sible for an older woman oman to wea them becomingly It is a well vell known fact that the aids Ide skirted frocks were taken up more extensively ely in ParIs Pans by older women omen than by young girls There is a psychology in this for youth is rot not appreciated by the young as it is is s by by- by older ld r people Young girls al- al alI alas al always I as ways enjoy wearing more dignified frocks than their ages warrant older elder lder women omen like frocks that make them feel and look 1001 young oung Models Inspired By ByA ByA A A Picturesque Past L LANVIN T ANVIN is one great dressmaker who realizes the importance of embodying a youthful theme In every ery model she makes Sh She turns i always to a beautifully picturesque 1 past for her ideas r rOne One needs to be fearless as well y f it AH 1 1 d L r 1 t M q v 0 jJ f I r 7 0 e t r Ii 1 rA C I 1 at r rw I 7 r U P fl V p III f J w r F Fa r t 1 oJ a I J tt t J J t h i 1 4 l I li f q I 74 V v x j j J Ir oaf c LI t t 9 r fl r rh c I h h Ad oft 1 J JILl I d III b i L Lx x r J I r c cJ IfiL J j I T j ir b 7 It f ft r I J it r 1 1 r- r 1 1 rJ u I l J JA JI I If J f A 0 fI II L L f t 1 lJ J I- I j I i roI J 1 Ii r Hf dV L 1 r- r rr r I f I I 7 i r ri f t- t I 1 t te to to 1 V rr u oJ V- V VI e r o I o 0 I Lanvin model of green crepe de Chine trimmed with pith frills edged with red Froc Frock of black and white checked taffeta with pith bertha collar cockade trimming rimming and ruffle trimming of jade green worn with pith witha pitha a broad hat of horsehair with pith of green and black r as original to persistently ignore what hat other dressmakers are do doing g as does Lanvin When Rhen others advocate advocate cate the slim silhouette sh she continues to set forth the bouffant mode finding find find- finding find finding ing her themes in a picturesque past One wonders onders if she will ever cease to be enthusiastic about period costume cos- cos costume cos costume tume tume styles or cease to hark back bach to early Italian and French Renais RenaIs- RenaIssance Renaissance Renaissance sance costume costume styles for both form and detail debt J She draws upon the picturesque que types of the past almost exclusively c cr r 4 1 f r t O Oa a 0 oo uD J l lN lJ I Il N J u I II Y Yu a aS I S V I Ia a G Do t o up po d Oo 9 f app r x A rA t 1 o i 4 01 t I sr 0 II 11 D C 1 4 w 0 I 0 D OD 0 0 U O J Op Q c o OP tO CcO OO o I c cO i O gk e P Oho I It U Fig Ov Ii- Ii t 9 Ui C o f oU 0 q U T I l k Frock of turquoise blue taffeta with J 2 large wheels of English eyelet emr embroidery em- em embroIdery em embroidery r done on white while organdie set into the skirl shirt also so the bertha collar The poke po t bonnet is of white while lace and organdie andI I She uses with frequency the tIie Ion long I bodice molding the figure and the bouffant skirt of the Italian Renais Renais- Renaissance Renaissance Renaissance sance period which has furnIshed her with Ith the inspiration for many of her models Charming organdie frocks have ha very ery full skirts almost touching the ilie ground Organdies are in m pastel shades made over foundations of silver er cloth or glittering taffeta the sheen of the silk or silver giving a I beautiful effect through the veil of the muslin which is in m beautiful beautiful shades of VlOet violet et rose blue and green i and often embellished with silver er embroidery Lanvin and lace are easily asso asso- assocIated associated dated because of the fact that thIs maker has had so much to do wIth the vogue for tor wide skirted dresses Lace lends itself very well weIl to this Idea Distinctly interesting are Lanvin's Lamins dinner dresses in black white and silver lace in which the overskirt o of lace is draped on a straight chemise foundation but the lace overskirt is so mounted with Ith Its thIckly corded shirring with its un- un unc uneven un uneven c even cen en hem and huge butterfly bow In brilliant contrast that it gIves gives a dashIng note An idea which has been toyed with for some time by dressmakers IS that of showing a hat to match or correspond with each dress ThIS has now passed the stage of being an idea and has become a decided vogue Dressmakers i and MIlliners Now Closely Associated DRESSMAKERS and milliners are becoming more closely asso asso- associated associated as time goes on The ideal way ay is for each dressmaking shop to hll have e in m connection with it a mil mn- millinery department so that women will be spared the trouble of a long and tiresome ome search for a hat to cult each costume costume-a costume a search whIch often is not crowned with success Lanvin was one of the first ex- ex exponents ex exponents of this idea and she has charmingly carried earned it out in m her skirted wide skirted frocks for summer mId mid m in which she shows many quaint lit lit- little lit little tle lie hats which might almost be called poke bonnets strongly remi remi- remi reminiscent reminiscent of the old-fashioned old sun sunbonnet sunbonnet bonnet Lanvin shows some interesting I frocks in changeable taffeta with skirts that are both long and wide some of them being enormous These dresses are arc accompanied by hats bats of the same material as the frock One model in black fa faille le has a wIde godet skirt used with a basque bodIce For the very young woman oman to whom horn Lanvin pays so much atten atten- attention attention tion hon there are long dresses made of white Georgette trimmed with I J Jhn t 1 y l r c J F t k t fe l ll 4 if 1 f fi i 4 1 Examples of il old fashioned poke po e bonnet bonnel from I which modern modem ma makers er are drawing their inspire inspire- lion for the pope polee t type pe of hat intricate decoration made from nar nar- narrow narrow narrow row crispy folds of organdie Here the little apron motif is used as decoration dec dec- dec decoration oration For tor trimming she adds a brilliant splash of embroidery a little bou- bou bouquet bouquet bou bouquet of field flowers in D vivid red blue and yellow tones against a background of vivid green foliage Often there is a handkerchief pocket containing a tiny handkerchief em- em embroIdered embroidered em embroidered broidered in m flowers of of vivid hues Turning away from the more or orless orless orless less commonplace though admIttedly ImpractIcal wide skirts shows a number of interesting dresses in which the Chinese motif is marked She has at least half a dozen dresses trimmed in the round eye eye bulls tassel-centered tassel motifs so characterIstic of Chinese decoration She has a lovely navy blue satin done in m this thi way and also a charm charm- charmIng charming charming ing black dress in w which these motifs are in D silver She carries this idea to the extreme showing it on some dresses with the motif at least twelve inches in diameter Thus only one will appear on the skIrt and another on on the bodice She has one model v i huge eye bulls bulls bull's ornament in m th the form of a heavy embrOIdery makes a pouch like point in the skirt drapery Throughout the entire line one sees many varia- varia variations yaria ions of this pal motif Rich embroideries continue to the work cork of this de- de desIgner designer de designer signer who now uses large round embroIdered motifs on bodIces sleeves and skirts Cockades are used in the same way and are aro effective Large old-fashioned old bouquets embroidered in natural col- col colorings col colorings adorn silk frocks while mara mara- marabou marabou marabou bou forms borders for bouffant skirts and lines handsomely em- em embroidered em embroidered broidered taffeta wraps The big chou thou of chiffon which IS being used so effectively by various vanous dressmakers also is a feature of I Lanvin's new models but while others pose it tit fit the side Lanvin I places it directly in the back like a bustle aI I Cockades of so many varieties have haye been created that to mention all would make an endless list And still each day brings a new way aay ay of using the cockade Ribbon wheels flowers bows dress accessories gir- gir girdles girdles gir girdles and other trimmings are seen The wheel fancy is one of the many attractive decorations that are used for sashes and girdles It ss I made on a cardboard foundatIon wIth four yards of rIbbon ribbon for tor the center and edge A piece pl ce of rIbbon is pulled for the center around whIch eighteen loops one inch long are placed The bias ends on the out out- outsIde outside out outside side row are one ono and one-half one inches long This wheel has many ways of being used The draped Egyptian dress which Is now in D vogue is caught in the center and decorated wIth the ribbon cockade Some Charming Phases Of Ofa a Pretty Fashion THE T HE artistic girdle with wooden beads and many streamers on the side is very effective Another way is the braided belt made of 1 10 two tone 0 tone ribbon peach on one sIde and gray on the other This charm charm- charmingly charmingly Ingy decorates a dress of gray Georgette crepe made over oyer peach colored silk giving the glow of sun sun- sunlight sunlight light through the fog which is a beautiful effect t L Lv v 34 I s 1 x 1 f r t rt r i j w eta y i iy o 0 S t 1 1 a j 1 r i l h i itt js j's r r tt ti 1 JI C Lamm model of black taffeta with huge flower motifs in colored spangles Some poke bonnets of the type sponsored by to be worn with wide wide- I skirted dresses arc sketched above P L e Na Navy blue crepe de Chine dress drus with 1 with wit ruffles of printed crepe 1 The poke polee bonnet from Suzanne Talbot i is of taffeta I in hi m strew For summer mid-summer days comes the organdie frock which has arrived in great numbers from ParIs Pans One model Is elaborately embroidered in narrow picot edged taffeta ribbon and has a sash of wide taffeta rIbbon displaying a new adaptation of the bustle bow Another shows a metallic ribbon gIrdle of five or six inch width lay lav lavender 1 ender on one side and silver on the theother other going going around the waist from the front crossing in the back and tied hed at the left side zide with a i bunch of ribbon violets A sort of climax for the sash and bustle bow such as appears on many of the smartest gowns seen in the New York shops The summer and spring capes display a great number of conventional flowers for their sole decoratIon These ire are used in rows MOIre ribbon is swirled round in circles until it resembles huge flat roses Th Theo These o circle motifs are used to trim the tho bottom of a summer cape On one model they give the effect of a scalloped bottom and collar Ribbon Corsages On Summer Frocks BOUQUETS of ribbon flowers are ara not unusual but there is rather a novel way of placing them over a tiny hollow wire frame to make male a corsage ornament from which fall many lon loner on ribbon streamers of va- va various va various rious lengths These frames are lIke the shade of a small reading lamp and are covered with tiny blossoms and nd buds compactly conventional but of exquisite eJ workmanship The most beautiful hues are intro intro- introduced introduced in these flowers ers They are placed at the waistline of a frock Just as one would wear a cors corsage bouquet The clusters of rIbbon whIch fall flom the bouquet are of all lengths from very short ends to those th that lt are considerably longer than the dress Huge tassels and heavy pendants of ribbon are much in III dc demand nd to hold the drapery apery o of a gO gown gOn n or finish the ends of sashes Ribbon tassels are most attractive when used in inthIs inthis inthis thIs way For the colorful sum mid midsummer midsummer mer frocks such as organdie there are soft 1 two tone tone o-tone ribbons of delight delight- delightfully delightfully fully blending hues that make strikingly strikingly pretty girdles with tassel ends Waxed ed ribbons are arc it if possible more popular than ever Many of ofus ofus ofus us may not consider them as attractive attractive tive as the silk and satin ribbons bf f dull duIl finish but they have some very strong appeal as is attested by their continued use use in such great quantitIes quantities quantities ties A very charming ribbon trimmed pearl white taffeta frock trimmed wIth this ribbon has a waist portion which is perfectly plain and is only slightly long The skirt which is full is 1 trimmed with cock cock- cockades cockades ades of the ribbon and the bottom of the skirt is entirely composed of Il a latticework of ribbon A similar band outlines the rather low cut low round neck this band taking the tho form of the tho 1830 1530 yoke yole |