Show I uS i I r s 4 t 1 i w ta a t fed A 1 4 33 ar- ar ars rY pv i Sr o r s F 1 V lri Of AS I 4 tv p irp S Sir ir 1 t l J y ri t K Ku Kr r 11 if B BY MA SHAlL COOK u OJ r rr I 1 r- r rs rJ s J y x Dex Pleated Balloon Sleeves Pleated De De- De A Y Jrr o Capes on Dresses and the theS S y V Vs Va s a t S t tirS J Wristlet Frill Are Among the Fea Fea- Features z a tures of the Spring Clothes 7 I V 4 r a aA Sa i A r t tf Z r axt k S J rill a S f fJ fr J t ts s t ta a r r r I The Bolero Jacket ack t Returns HIS season changes of styles THIS r in fn almost every instance are made through the details of off I th the dress rather than through the cut In collars collar sleeves capes and trimmings great variety Is apparent Many of the new mod mod- models models els might almost be he said sald to represent represent sent ent a gathering of ideas that have been advanced at various times over the last few years Tale Take for instance the three mod mod- models models els shown at the cen center er of days to-day's to page They give give the appearance of considerable elaboration but a care care- careful careful ful analysis proves that they represent represent represent sent merely a bringing together of Sarious arious recent ideas There is the short straight cut cut jacket the godet skirt and the finely pleated skirt the use of a printed fabric in combination combination combination tion with a plain ont one to give the im- im impression impression im impression of elaborate embroidery the be bertha ha and the lavish use of embroidery A model out so of these ideas is shown sho in inthIs inthis inthis thIs group It If is ia a smart spring spring dress with with th matching cape developed from nav navy blue serge Tl This s model is entirely in th the picture of the new styles s for the c spring and summer r It confirms the vogue of the straight finely pleated skirt the use of the little matching detachable detachable ble cape which which in this instance is also pleated the importance of the pleated balloon sleeve and wristlet I frill and end the narrow scarf collar all of which as details presage the actual mode for 1923 I gives an aspect of the bolero to the dress by ly the manner of trimming rimming the bodice using as he does a silk braid in a brilliant red bordered with a silver embroidery A Skirt Suspended From a Bolero Jacket DIRECTLY to the right fight of this is shown an Agnes model in a spring suit from Agnes simulating the three piece style with Georgette crepe bodice of contrasting color The original model is in navy blue wool repp with a bodice of Georgette upon which there is an embroidery in deep red The skirt lS is wo worn worn n at a low hip line and is suspended sus- sus suspended sus suspended by means of straps which are attached as a border to the boo bo bolero lero jacket The union of blue serge and white hite organdie IS s an important bit of news in the fashion world Navy blue serge has been revived and brought into the foreground as a fashionable fashionable fashionable ble dress material A few years rears ago this material was looked upon as the backbone of the wardrobe for the woman who could not be extravagant in her dress and must choose fabrics that were durably With its return to favor it lt has been lifted out of its place and made one of the extremes of fashion As of old however ever white Designed d b by y North v is this 4 frock L brownL 0 of f brownf Havana brown crepe M Mong Mongol ong I WI with witha Ih a Chi Chi- Chinese n nese embroidery cry 0 of f the same lame tone lone com completely P coy coy- coyt t cring g the dress C y 1 r a 6 lt o 1 F l 0 i I 0 D D D 0 LD r T o- o op p I i t 1 r r r S y yf f n 1 t fill r J Jn t i S So S o L x 0 k I Ii t f i If r I I Sr I Ii i 11 I II l f S o 1 1 l p T Ts L f J f I III II III III S tS s p l I t tl III I P a 7 Z t tt 1 t fi fir r 1 tr I t f Suit Suil showing the current use of printed sill crepe in combination with wilh crepe of ofa a pla plain n color colorA I A 1 SUit from Agnes of 01 nary Y blue repp with wilh J bodice of ecru upon which w there lingerie effects are introduced introduced into the blue serge costume to make lt it more appealing At the exclusive dressmaking establishments one see sees the three piece costume of blue serge with the entire blouse portion of white Organdie Panels on onA onA onA A Blue Serge Dress SOMETIMES the lingerie effect is introduced in the skirt ofa of a adress dress A new model for tor spring charming in its simplicity is lS devel devel- developed devel- devel developed developed in blue serge with godet panels of blue organdie set into the skirt These organdie panels are much elaborated with v hh a sort of passe passe- trimming made from the organdie Similar panels appear on 11 the sleeves and there is a belt of the organdie I An excess of ot embroidery y charac charac- I charac-I characterizes characterizes man of the ninny many new dresses They are arc not only adorned with Ith em- em embroidery embroidery em embroidery but they are covered With it A dress from Worth typical topical of the new embroidery effects is lS shown sho day day to-day It is lS developed from Ha- Ha Havana Havana Ha Havana vana brown crepe Mongol with an over over allover design in Chinese effect done in ln the same tone This model is sketched at the lower left of this page You will notice that in clos clos- closing closing closing ing the widely to the right and not ip in the usual style of hand left hand closing Peasant embroideries of nil all kinds are being much used on light wool crepe dresses and on cotton and Georgette Many of the de- de designs designs de designs signs are taken from rare old pieces of peasant work ork notably those from RussIa and other Slavic countries Interest also is manifest in tn Chinese Hindo-Chinese Chinese designs Some Somo dresses shown on this page are typical t tip tip-ical p ical of the work done dono this tIlls season They show brilliant hued embroideries embroideries embroideries on white wool backgrounds Discriminating women a omen seemingly hat ha hae e a not had enough h of embroidery I i I model ofa of i a spring dress with v matching matching ma cape Il It j V Vis V 11 is of navy blue j x Jo serge serge trimmed with f I brilliant red silk dk bra b r a i d bordered bort bor with wilh silver her cm- cm n Some of the new spring sprig models m ln in sill silk are literally embroidery cy Ci ca ered ered the pattern being so el ex ev exquisitely executed that it lt seems a apart apart apart part of the fabric ft A beautiful dress of this c character developed tn in Charmante Armure is lS in a 10 lovely ely tone with a cashmere design design de- de deThe sign The diess is of a most unusual cut seemingly passing around the uie figure three times and in m aay a way ay lt it has three armholes armholes The ping ping side has an armhole to hold it itin itin m in place the dress has two regula regula- regulation regulation tion hon armholes which support the sleeves and the dress fastens very cry far at the right side quite contrary to the style of op opening High Colored Prints in Chinese Chinese Hindo-Chinese Style AN IRREGULAR embroidery de- de desIgn design de design sign is seen on an afternoon i dress developed of crepe do Chine I Ithe the needle needlework orl appearing on the panels at the sides of the skirt and I Surmounting open slashes in m the front of the bodice A sash in m sal sal- salmon salmon sal salmon mon pink emerges at one side of the dress as it lf the under bodice under were made by wrapping the figure and leaving the long ends free to tie tic in a bow on the outside of the dress The novel half halt low roll collar col- col collar col collar lar shows sho the same embroidery An attractive model created for Southern wear ear is lS developed of crepe Georgette with delicate hand em- em embrOidery embroidery em embroidery The Tho dress is 1 in m piece one one style with the Waistline higher than that most popular at the tho present of J I is an embroidery in deep red The skirt I it suspended r by means of straps which are arc at- at attacked at attached tacked as a a border to 10 the bolero jacket time There are overhanging panels i closely pleated and mounted with nth a delicate handwork done on the crepe Georgette A smart touch is given through the use of a scarf sash of o tulle which is lS attached at the left side with Ith a bouquet of frosted sIl- sIl sIlver silver silver ver flowers flo When worn orn this scarf scar is thrown Jl carelessly around d the neck passing the back and the left aim alm and crossing the throat The use of high colored punts prints m in crepe and crepe de Chine Chineis Chimis lS is still much in vogue rogue ogue The newest Cst patterns are in or Hindo- Hindo Chinese style but there also are ale alemany many Persian and cashmere prints The current use u e of prints in m com com- combination with Ith plain crepes to form dresses and three-piece three suits is lS il- il illustrated il illustrated in m one of to days to-da to s 's sketches Many of the ne newest est afternoon dresses for spring will be made of crepe Romain of that quality which resembles crepe Georgette but has considerable more body and is more durable A charming new model developed from gray gisy crepe I IS trimmed with Ith hand pleated bands of faille ribbon set sot into open inter inter- interstices interstices which are embroidered all allaround allaround allaround around GI Giving further ornamentation ornamentation ornamentation tation and weight eight to the dress are broad panels of tiny run hand-run tucks at the front and back Many black and white combinations combinations are being emphasized A new embroidery done with Ith a self cord ing mg in m conjunction with stitching done dono in metal threads lS is used by one great French desIgner This embroidery appears on a simple but attractive model of white crepe the cording being done on the sleeves the oke I and the skirt The gold thread stitching is 18 in the form of diamond shaped motifs at both the back and front of the dress In a city so full of romantic in in- in interest in tel terest est as Paris Pans it is lS natural for the dressmakers to seek beek in inspiration in inthe the tho exquisite silhouettes of bygone days and among the simple flower flower- like flower like frocks often sem se n an amusing note Is introduced by picture dresses the ideas hiving been tak tak- taken taken taken en from from the marvelous portraits which abound in m the Musee du Louvre Now and then one sees secs a frail young yung ung miss in 1 Ii very full tulle dress dressI I of the palest shade imaginable skirt ma may mav be h trimmed with bands and rosettes of pInk satin ribbon of varying lengths while the round neck tulle bodice with little tittle pulled puffed sleeves is lS untrimmed The full tulle skirt is usually hung over a aI I straight rather narrow foundation slip of pink satin Or again the full skirt may be entirely dotted WIth tm tiny velvet CIvet flo flowers floen en in m a darker shade than the tulle Autumn Autumn Foliage on an Apricot Colored Dress I AT AT A recent dance given in theold theold the theold old aristocratic quarter of Saint Germain some very Sery ery lovely dresses of this type t pe and character wel were e seen One of particular interest I was lS developed in m cerise cense crepe de deChine deChine Chine and chiffon of a matching shade The simple bodice S Ith round neck and short slee sleeves es was as of the crepe de Chine while the straight hanging skirt set et on to the bodice at a very low waistline was as entirely covered CO ered with nth rows of over over- overlapPIng overlapping overlapping lapping petals of the cerise cense chiffon ThIS same trimming also edged the short sleeves Another adorable frock was de- de developed de developed in an apricot taffeta This was a straight little the Si-oHr-the- s the over the over head dress in chemise form trimmed with garlands of flowers and foliage down each aide side of the tho dress falling from a low waistline to the edge of the skirt This garniture was also of taffeta in III a darker shade of yel- yel yellow yel yellow low 10 brown and gleen green The round neck very short t sleeves and bottom of the skirt were ere edged with mth shirred bands of cream cream ret Keeping to straight and slender lines is a Ii dress developed in m a love love- lovely lovely lovely ly pink crepe de Chine tho the bodIce and skirt being cut in one piece At each side of the skirt hang two loop panels about nine inches in width which fall foil from a low waistline and extend three inches beyond the edge R t tv v t t r 4 0 a- a ar J r L- L Russian ra c embroideries h ri bright red and f lc on a white while wool of the skirt Slanting slightly down over the right hip is lS a 1 like ruff gir- gir girdle girdle gir girdle dle of pleated tulle of matching shade centered with Ith mink tails The model slips on 0 over er the head has hal ha havery very short sleeves and a straight straight- straight across neck Tiny Tucks Trim a Pervenche Blue Model A A FOURTH model which attract attract- attracted attracted ed cd much attention was essen essen- essentially essentially essentially Second Empire in m feeling and very lovely 10 It was developed in pervenche blue crepe Georgette trimmed with Ith groups of tm tiny tucks on the dirt and which formed a finish for the 1830 1530 neck and short sleeves There wa Viii was a ribbon sash girdle and long ends of amber satin An advance spring model in in an evening gown n made of black silk and Chantilly lace embroidered in ingold ingold ingold gold has a foundation skirt over which the lace is lS draped of salmon colored satin with the exception of the center back panel this being of black like the bodice A panel sash lof I of black velvet heavily lly fringed In Ingold ingold ingold gold falls from one side and there I j is an additional loop panel formed I of a beautiful gold galon del ed in m multi-colored multi beads The ii is V shaped and the low low- low blousing blousing bodice leaves not only the chest and back but the sides of the body nude 7 r C J L l 1 I SA t I ILi Li I f r 1 j I Frock of crepe with deep bertha anda and II a finely pleated plea skirt s ir t |