Show h I r 1 b I i il l Ij II I II l Il I Ib Iv b v N NG j G k k ae aea a A I M 4 aK Y s 4 i s 1 Y r r R RI s I r N I T Td d i V IF i E r f fIt It sus t m gat n 1 VV 4 F vF v liy r t v J Matching Embroideries SUCCESSFUL expo exploiter er of ofa ofa ofa A a fabric or a II fashion of of any sort is ia never niggardly in inthe inthe inthe the use us use of his materials The history history of fashion has shown that in order to gain any SOl soft t of attention jO j ja O a great deal othe of o the thing which one onet t to popularize must moat be shown The widespread use of figured materials at the present present time is due to the quantities of models in these figured fabrics which were brought out ant last year There were ere street dresses with the entire blouse por por- portion portion tion tron of figured fabrics there were indoor dresses and outdoor dresses for summer wear made of materials patterned in the gayest of designs and most brilliant of colors In tracing back the why hy and wherefore of the apparently re- re re remarkable vogue for the figured fab- fab fab fabrics acs of the present day one finds that the craze for these materials did not spring up suddenly It wasa was wasa wasa a thing of f slow growth and really dates b back ck to summer resorts and r- r rf f mid mid winter resorts where bere women were ere seen in frocks of cretonne and chintz and silks in very bold floral 3 t 3 i 1 1 o J C l I II I oJ v A f r K M I Iris r A ris e For W q Printed w led r n Fabrics abri S r By ARA- ARA ARAC C HALl L v-A- v vAA A AV tJ I Iw 1 Y MV w i 4 t 1 i a 1 x p L 1 i Blue cotton collon sports coat em- em embroidered cm broidered in bla and white and anda a blouse of while ite i knitted silk trimmed with red suede patterns fabrics and printed in PerSian Persian Persian sian designs Many of the patterns seen in fou fou- fou foulards foulards lards and silks are almost exactly like like- those that made their initial appearance on cotton fabrics The greatest minds of the making industry v which industry industry which isone is one of othe the greatest in the world have world have for to some trine time been turned tuned turned toward the malung malang of gorgeously colored and figured fabrics fabrIc The fabrics of the great Rodger are this spring sprang richly decorated in a greater variety than they have ever er been before Heavy embroideries are arc lavishly used Sometimes they cover the entire fabric Many bany matching embroideries are aro aroused used especially in trio the beige and f 4 s J 4 IJ a G t ta u ur o fd r o I IN N I Io i Q Ili e J i i l l lL L 1 G r U Uv v i 4 p o o 0 i J t 4 0 0 0 l la lo lo o a o o oi oI i I Io o v uv 0 u ui i u b bJ 0 i J u d 0 a r U o oa Ul l 0 0 I t I Il l p bt t a b bD D 1 jack aCre Land and rout vIe view of ofa a gown of burnt oran orand orange ge colored co lored silk printed in dull red rc d and andem em- em em 1 d in silver tea tan tones Crepe de Chine Dine C Cre pella palls Ka h and nd other othu materials are aro embroidered in wool woo 1 o or braid br id Frequently the tb embroidery the fabric or ar agars again it ma may be scattered in rater inter estin eating motifs Braid Trimming 1 On Crepe de Chine Frock Frocks THE THE wool stressed in th the o article which appeared last t week in this newspaper is a favor favor- favorite favorite ite ire background for the lavish em- em embroideries em embroideries characteristic of this Sea sea season son A loose mesh pattern iri hi ri two tones of a matching shade some some- sometimes sometimes times is uses used used Artificial silks also are aro used u ed to embroider on wool crepes Wide borders of embroidery ery are worked on the popular wool The use rase of woo wool embroidery is not confined to woolen and silk Bilk fabrics but bat is used on sheer cotton mate mate- materials materials rials such as batiste which it al- al almost al almost most moat covers in close designs so that practically a new fabric is crea created d Bright colors such as ae the primitive yellow s a and reds are seen on cotton fabrics The used for embroidery on Crepe de Chine and similar silk fabrics of crepe weaves is very fine almost a cord and usually is worked in bands or geometrical designs after the time old-time methods of braid braid- braiding braiding ing Sometimes the is com com- combined combined combined with silk embroider embroidery Printed Silks Embroidered In Large Floral Patterns VERY VERY JERY interesting are the printed fabrics carrying embroidery in large floral patterns Crepe deChine de deChine Chine may be printed in black and embroidered in vivid yellows and blues Or it may be printed in black and blue and embroidered in inI bright red White crepe de Chine I frequently carries carric tone sane a tone one em- em emI embroidery em ern embroidery I of a vivid hue sucha such a as f golden yellow yellowy tangerines or deep blue This treatment is sometimes carried out on s satin Chinese Indian and Moorish dc- dc de dc designs signs are scattered in beautiful color schemes on backgrounds of natural Kasha Such materials are being made into simple but decors ive decora-ive I decora-I rive tive dresses Light wool dresses of this sort are very desirable for re resort re- re resort sort wear ear both now and for cool days in the summer at the seashore I or ar in the mountains and they are always perfectly delightful for forI I house frocks Wool cashmere too is being dec dec- decorated decorated dec decorated orated in a colorful and artistic manner with braids and embroidery This docs does not mean that the dresses are being berng decorated but the tho fabric Itself carrying such trimmings may maybe maybe e be brought by the yard Al All of the silk stressing Persian and other Orien Orien- Oriental Oriental tal tat designs on silk crepes forthe for the coming summer This t type pe of or- or or ornamenting silken fabrics is rs the strongest note in dress so far this season The patterns are closely cosely disposed over entire crepe fabrics and standout stand standout standout out in the most brilliant brillian colors such as red orange and yellow on an the liked well liked well beige or brown back back- backgrounds backgrounds grounds Bands and borders in bright colors are also favorites Unusual cotton fabrics will be used in this summers summer's dresses There will be linens covered with embrOidery in m elaborate designs of rich colorings Many of the pat pat- patterns patterns terns seen in iii the cotton fabrics have bave been taken from Eastern na- na native na native tive live arts These brilliant cottons will be combined with Ith pam plain cotton crepes of heavy weight white whits and bro bronn bron n shades being most often chos chos- chosen chosen en Novelty Cottons Used In In Three Piece Costumes THE THE same shades hades of cocoa brown used in the smartest of winter dresses will wall appear in cotton fab- fab fab ric fab-ric rice ries These frocks will be relieved by collars and and cuffs of white ma- ma materia ma me material I teria with heavy embroidery often it II a blending shade of brown I The short as locket jacket aa predicted in 1 I ter i 1 i r t i p po o r ra Fx 1 l fi r d 1 1 i f i i i ii i r I i 1183 1 a It 7 tid F q r rr m a JAI f fy y u ui ul i 4 l I Jl J JD I l D I s su sa u a n p pr r U ec 0 l C Cec ur fl 1 n nt p I P t t I II l I i ii i i a tl J JI I c ci i 1 r M My Mf Mr r y f Y SO Above Dress of o white moo Above Above Prot t 0 o f y allow cot cot cot- ere P ells trimmed with sills sill t s 1 on crepe trimmed with hand hand- printed in a cashmere Je design r f drawn work The collar col and andAl At Al the right Model of beige 1 sleeves arc bound with blue wool embroidered in I dh It d is worn a blue vivid colors linen Imen hat hal this paper a few months ago aga woul would take tape the place of the Will sweater sweater wilbe be very prominent in summer cos cos- cos costumes costumes tomes It will be ofa of a cotton ina- ina nia material to wear ear over over- cotton frocks With so much Wroth to draw upon in the way ay of printed and embroidered fabrics which show very bright col- col colors colors col colors ors there is no limit to the designs that may be worked out in rn the cot cot- cotton cot cotton ton tan costume consisting of a frock a separate jacket to be worn orn over It it Many bany of these will follow out the thc idea of the so-called so three-piece three cos cos tome tume of the winter inter that is a dress consisting ofa of a skirt of a heavy ma- ma ma material renal tenal attached to a lightweight bodice anda and a jacket uch matches the skirt In the summer summer things vOile and similar thin materials will ill take the place of the chiffon and the crepe de dc Chine for the blouse por- por portion por portion tion lion of the dress Novelty fabrics have not taken the place of the old standby cot cot- cotton cotton cotton ton vOIe voile for the summer frock It is stilla still a favorite to together ether with cotton crepe and retina Cotton floss boss is used to embroider both bath crepe and dresses One great cotton manufacturing firm makes an interesting fabric which is a batiste having the effect of being crumpled crumbled into thousands of tiny wrinkles This material materia is made in printed patterns as well as plain Printed cotton fabrics similar simlar to tOile also are arc used Voiles VOIes and the sheer handkerchief linens mens are being berng made up into frocks that for the last few yeas we ue have ha cometo come cometo cometo to consider almost regulation styles for this type of dress that is With fine work drawn hemstitching hand tucking and pleating Necks sleeves and belts bolts usually ore are bound In contrasting colors Most blast of the frocks of this thi sort have short sleeves but the bateau neckline rs IS i replaced by a little collar Cretonnes and Chintzes In Oriental Colorings A AWELL WELL known Paris Pans specialty shop mak makes s a lavish avish display of cretonne clothes The dresses all follow simple designs fora for a material mate mate- materia material ria rial embodying so much in the thc way of color and design itself must necessarily necessarily essany be made with little or nothing in the way of fulls frills or fur I fur furbelows belows This material which has liar been more closely associated with house decoration than anything else has a icat ag-icat gl great cat ilea deal eal in m the way of art to 1 rely ey upon All The he richness of design and the beauty of color seen in m It did not just happen It is an out out- outcome outcome come of modern talent coupled with Ith ancient arts It has meant the study of the art artof artof artof of Oriental countries and a reproduction reproduction reproduction of their best although the fabric carr carrying mg it IS ia one ono of the co com comparatively inexpensive ones Cretonnes and chintzes appeal more to the imagination than probably probably ably any other materials The fo- fo foliage fo foliage liage liege that grows along river aver banks has hils been resorted to for we vve see any number of large motifs designed from such models Other cretonnes suggest Persia with its caravans of beautiful stuffs its gardens andris and Its ris rugs Much in m the way of coloring liS as well as design appears to have been inspired by this country Chinese Motifs and Tropical Bird Designs THERE THERE are rich Chinese motifs The plumage of tropic tropical tropical birds hoe haa played its part in Inspiring color And interspersed with these are aro the lovely floral Dattes na print f ed eel on clear backgrounds So one may say sap that there is rs no other artier one fabric to so many tastes and offering o such a vast last ast variety Chintz dresses s are of the sort so much worn at nt Southampton and otier Long Island resorts 1 last sum sum- summer summer mer and from the number of them being shown in rn exclusive shops and prepared by various die whale hose seal of aj approval is rs consIdered so important it is likely that lust Just Justas justas as many If if rf not more of them writ III willbe be seen this coming summer ai f I s s a i id d V l U 1 U i 1 c cf J f f TI f d I Y S I If a A f 3 ti tiA i i 1 o i ij k F f r l I I w y v vl vI vI J v Creen and ana white frock trimmed a with folds and buttons but e o white linen The hat U Is of C r AS ASI J t I I r |