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Show Pink Silk Cloth Gown mMli C, "'Jfe, Embroidered VClvctGqHn ? H K22- fjpfe N , r tfiV,'? mUVMm 'KHlWln rhotp Copyright, 1911. by Routllnser ,' H Pbotq Copyrlfeht, 1911, by Rcntllngcr VTl J YJJi HS K J-O-zS? ICSiWir llKX'WKfe. delusive CoprrIght. 1011. New York Herald H ExcIueItc Copyrlsht, 1011. Now York Herald Js JN l&.-K-T,, WW K53S MMJmils T-fiWfr: fl BY MRS. A. T. ASHMORE. r 1112SH ire busj days for woman kind, for dressmaking is in full ( swing, and it behooveth rich and poor alike to be g-iUup cvery- thin? in order for the spring and H summer, vv lien winter clothes B vlll not only look but feel out of place. Thfa is a season of the year when drqss ( Hl i is an nil important topic of conversation , Hl I r.nd thought. No one wants to buy Hj i rashly, nnd jot so fascinatingly attr.ic- H tire arc the new materials, colors and H styles that it requires great sclf-contr6l " not to be led astray when the now gowns Hj arc exhibited. "Such a dainty little frock, H so simple; Jut right for every occasion H and so (comparatively) cheap' nnd in H voile, silk, cloth or satin is displsjed a most adorable product of the dressmaker's skill. Second thoughts may prove that H it is quito unsuitablc except for occa- sional wear, and its purchase will pro- H Jiibit the buying of .in absolutely neces- B sary and more serviceable gown; but it is HBV such a temptation H This spring there are an unusual num- H bcr of smart, simple gowns displaced, H for there seems to be an unusual variety H of materials suitable for warm wenther. H The fashion of the tunic and qcrskirl Hj adds to the variety, for there are to bo H bought so man) charming robes that can H be worn over gowns that lme lost their H tin;t freshness. There arc fancy nnd H plain materials in the new 'voiles, nets H and chiffons, nnd inosi exquisite color- H iugs. A useful, becoming and smart gown il Hl in tin tul I-lDcrle Gon. Hj t H In two shades of blue is a popular model H tliaL is almost severe in its simplicity, H (with side pleated waist and tunic skirt H finished with n bund of the same material. H It Is a inodol. bowevr, that requires great H caro in copying, for it ih ho simple that H ovry detail must bo right, otherwise it H yrill not look so smart as it should. That blue over uiauvc will look smarter than H two shades of blue is a point to be re- Hl membered. JBl Lace gown; aro to be extremely fashion able, uud there aro bmart models thnt aw .icdetitne. The more Kovere llue aro the H j( smartest, with u. touch of color in the front of the waist nnd in the girdle The lace is often so fashioned that it covers the girdle, but thin only heightens the charm. One model that ia popular has a lnnel of cerise velvet in the front of the skirt as well as girdle and a band on the waist White Made Over Color. There are more white gowns made over colors or with touches of color than there arc pll white, but later, when the lace nnd lingerie gowns are worn, the fashion will perhHps have changed and the nil white will be the most populnr With the ttles that now prevail there can be many varieties varie-ties of coloring, for the gown itself can be made eparnle from the lining. One of the most practical of fashions is the hilk gown, tnffcta, foulard or n novclt) silk, and this spring there nrc any number of models to choose from These gowns arc all simple in design, with nothing eccentric about them The stripes .ire IHipulnr blnck and white, two shades of blue or green, or, smartest of all, two shades of grny The design for thcte gowns i. simple, 1he skirt wider than the cloth ones, finished with odc or two straight bands of plain color, a yoke and cuffs of white lace or net the only trim-ning trim-ning except the fancy buckle that fas-tpns fas-tpns the tHt or girdle. This is what can be calkd a conservative stvlc, for it has norfb of the exaggerated points cither in design de-sign or coloring. After the first of April velvet gowns look quite out of date, but this season they have been so populur that until within a very short time dressmakers have been exhibiting them. Any model for a velvet gown that appears so late can be copied in othor mutcrials more appropriate to spring and summer, and consequently the latest velvet gowns are still receiving attention. Gray Extremely Popular. The silk nnd satin finish cloths are so attractive at-tractive this vtar nnd so well Gtted for all the present fashions that they nrc in great demand, and "the silk cloth gown copied alter the latest -velvet model is sure to be satisfactory Embroidery on cloth is quite as effective as on velvet, and braiding shows to even greater advnntagc. There are many different kinds of braid, wide, -narrow, lint and round, that are used, and often two nnd three will be combined, while nil fancy braids with touches of color, gold or silver, arc most satisfactory. For spring receptions and for the cvol days of summer, which alwavs have to be provided for, thej.e cloth gowns arc charming. charm-ing. Gray in all shades is most popular this yeaf, and the light t-ilvery or r.arl shndes, with embroidery' to match, make most fnsclnnting and becoming gowns. The woman who looks well in a collarless gown, and she is in the minority, has such a gown made with yoke of finest net or lace, and a high transparent collar to match Is added by the woman who realize that eho looks far better than with her, throat exposed. Fine laces as well as sheer net aro now used for yokes and collars in these jwincftloih gowns m place ot tho tucked and heavy lace joke fashionable for so long a time. I'lesh color tulle and (net jokes nnd collnrx, which give the same I effect ns if no collar were worn, and jet which are more becoming, aro to be noted In some of the more elaborate gowns, ! Slopes require careful consideration' I for the fashion therein changes often and JHiiddcnly. The separate underslecvc with . (tshnish or band of lace ts eharmlnglj , dainty and so becoming that it Is to be ; i hoped the fashion will vudure. It is cr- 'jC'- -A. iV '. rh0I Copyright, 1911, by Rentllngcr 'T $& 'iEl CseluiiTc CopyrWt. 101L Nei York Herald ; , White Lace Gown WW' ' '- .kCJt 4 Plioto by Fchx "M L'xcluile Copyrlcht. 1911. New York DcraM r trcmely popular at the moment. The double sleeve is a marked feature in tho new Sonus, and if the underslecvc bo counted there are often three sleeves, each a little longer than the other. The tendency is toward a wider, larger sleeve, and the puffed undersleevc showing under the kimono sleeves is an indication that every effort is being made to bring back the large sleeve, large above the.olbow at nil events. The kimono sleeve is essential lo happiness, apparent! j, for thorearc few vVaists, whether for day or vening, that arc not so made. Fortunately It has. attained at-tained a perfection that makes it mure becoming. Brocade Evening Gowns. ' The popularity of the brocade and figured fig-ured crepe evening gowns will carry them well into the summer. Indeed, these two fabrics are nowadays considered suitable at all seasons of the year. So soft and clinging are the brocades of to-day that there is no model in the ino-tl exaggerated Empire or Directoiro fashion that cannot can-not be carried out in this ever hcatitiful and so effective textile; brocade does not demand any elaboration of trimming, as do the plain silks and satins, which is another decided point in its favor. A novel feature of the newest evening gowns is a band of some striking dark color finishing the decolletnge at the neck, Blnck or dark brown tulle is used inlhls manner on many of the pink and blue nnd other lighter dinner dresses, while on oue most effective blutlr evening bodice thlij band was of tcrisc velvet. To voftcn the 1ne agaiust the throat a filling of flesh colored tulle maj bc ploccdwln a govv n of an shade Wonderfully effective cvciiingownj- for the priug anil carlj summer are; now being fushiour-d from the ball aull di'mi-V gow us of last winter by timpl counug . . ; the old satin or silk with a tunic of chit- too. or the splendidly serviceable mar- : quiscttc. The overdress may bear no rein- . tiou at all to the original shade of the dress, but if the color be too strong a -contrast the chiffon must cover tho fonn- datlon cptirely and not bo simply draped I over pnrtf the dross?. By the placing N ot two nbsolutelyiiullke tones one on top i r Nl J : "; I 1 ' I I I- II Blue Cliirmccio Cora. !f riJ: : I L of. the other many new exquisitely artis- v tic, colore are frequently obtained. Palo ? salmon iuk and brick rul arc, for ex- , ample. Iwu . tone that can never be V Si tnoilght of at the same time w ithout cms- J L ilig u shudder, but one lajcr of red chlf- W. jjj, foil placed directly over salmon satin n g gnus a hue that is rcallj beautiful JLW vVhL |