Show E HOW TO SAVE MONEY WHEN N SHOPPING by r MRS IR s 11 HARLAND A RLAND H ALL ALLEN E N Q 1922 it 11 allen TO TELL A GOOD PIECE OF COTTON CLOTH if only I 1 could ever bo be sure of what I 1 atit am getting I 1 cries tho the chopper who has been made wary by disappointing purchased hasea take taka cotton goods now cotton being the cheapest cheap fat la Is seldom cited with tiny anny of the other fibers but many a poor piece ot of cotton cloth la Is ma maddt 00 to appear better and heavier than it really Is by the addition ot of too much dressing the spaces between tho the threads aro are filled up and a good finish la Is given to the material but tho the wearing quality Is not increased after washing tho the cloth loses both its weight anti and firmness tills this dressing can sometimes bo be scraped up by picking nt at tho the surface of the cloth with the linger finger null nail or by rubbing the material between thoi the hands bands cloth that has a large quantity d dt T this sizing in it will also feel harsh and suit stilt to the touch A sure auro way la Is to wash a sample of tho the goods when most of tho the dressing will disappear it la Is also a good idea to test the strength of cotton goods by pulling sharply at the edge of tho the material it may havo have been weakened in tho the bleaching process or a bolt which has haa been in stock a long time ma may r havo have become weakened by tho the action at 0 some chemical used in tho the sizing or tile tho dyes A good way to test the strength of a material to Is to place the thumbs together and press them down hard holding tho the cloth tight underneath nil and d noting liow how much strain it will bear tile the firmness of the iveane weave and tho quality of tho the fiber are also important points to consider Il holding the cloth up to the light and looking through it will vill show whether tho tha weave la Is close or not to judge tho the quality of the fiber all you havo have to do Is untwist a thread of the cloth and notice the length of the separate fibers A long fiber always alv ays indicates strength and therefore good wearing quality la in choosing between two grades of cotton cloth it Is frequently wise to consider tho the additional wearing quality you call cah get for a few cents additional cost often a piece of goods gooda costing only two or three cents more will wear imar four or five times as aa long na as the cheaper material of course this Is not always true as sometimes the extra cost is 11 duo simply to tho the I 1 novelty of tte the design or color STYLISH STOUTS 1 I would rather admit that I 1 am bitout and bo be correctly fitted than fool myself into wearing the wro wrong aig clothes that only make me look stouter than I 1 1 really am said one wise shopper it Is a common wall going up from stout women that tho the styles are nil all made for the slender woman and that no DO attention Is paid to them but thero there pre arc many things which you can do for yourself to keep you from looking dare I 1 say bay 10 it tat fat most women who ore aro too stout make the mistake of thinking that the tighter they wear their clothes the better they will appear this la Is a preposterous idea for when carried to extremes it only makes moin look like something trussed rather bather should the erces elvo elve flesh bo be disguised by soft fullness and having heard or read somewhere that stripes make a person look slender they make the mistake of cloos choosing wide stripes the et ripa should be ona fine and indistinct rather that than showing any definite color or line the cardinal point tor for every stout woman to keep in mind la Is that up and down lines give slenderness and round roand and round lines emphasize thickness it ought not to be necessary to warn her against tunic skirts or those with ruffles shirring shin in and excessive crosswise trimming and yet we seo see tho the walking need of such advice on tho the streets every day sleeves for the stout woman should be plain and while not so largo large as aa to accentuate the width of the figure should bo be loose enough to conceal tho the superabundant super surer abundant flesh the under arm should bo be close though easy fitting cuffs buffa that turn back serve to call at to the short tat fat arm it if your nock neck Is short nil and thick you should not wear choker collars of any kind hind thet the V neckline Is your best boon and if lace or trimming Is used it should blend in with the blouse go 0 o that it la Is practically lost to the eye in fact trimming must always be of a rather titan than a contrasting color and on no condition must a collar or a belt boldly attract the eye unbroken line from neck to hem therein lies your salvation black and all very dark colors make a figure appear smaller avoid blossy large figured fabrics and big brocades brocaded bro cades in selecting material for garments pay especial attention to the sheen and fin ish agh stiff fabrics having a glossy brilliant surface attract attention and I 1 make the figure appear larger while sort soft pliable fabrics in dull colors make the figure look smaller |