OCR Text |
Show Rich Costumes Rule in Paris -V Elaborate Materials and Original Designs Mark Reaction From War's Tension. CAPES IN HEIGHT OF FAVOR No Doubt That Picturesque Wraps Will Be a Feature of Autumn Styles Day and Evening Gowns Much Alike. The Redfern model I have sketched this week is very novel and original In design and yet it is comparatively simple, writes Idalla de Villiers, I'aris correspondent' of the Boston Globe. This robe, intended for afternoon wear, Is typical of present-day styles. It possesses all the elements that go to make up a successful toilette of this wonderful year. In the first place the general outline of the little gown rather suggests an evening costume. The Deck is cut round, in generous fashion, 'ami the sleeves are very short and transparent, yet this is the kind of dress that is worn at the big race meetings aud at all outdoor festivities, accompanied by a big picture hat and more probably prob-ably than not by short gauntlet gloves. It is, in fact, a genuine 1919 model. The material of this costume is black and white foulard large white spots on n Mock ground. There Is a Pink wafer 'lilies sov .wreathe his hal Ugljij ffiMX of black hcquetdliy iSsSf cfeenrose ggtff modd in Let suggestion of pannier draperies at the sides, and at the hem the supple material ma-terial is so cleverely arranged that it gives something of the Turkish trouser effect. Then the waistline is long, and what the French call "vague," that is to say, it Is loose and ultranatural. I recently saw a very similar dress worn at an Auteuil race meeting, but the material was midnight blue char-meuse, char-meuse, with a dainty chemisette of flesh-pink orgadie muslin and a thick blue fringe on the draped tuuic. Strikingly Original Costume. The neck was cut round, almost like the Redfern model, hut the sleeves were even shorter. Very long pale gray suede gloves were worn and an immense pale gray felt hat, lined with black chip and trimmed with a cluster of black satin water lilies. It was an amazingly original costume, taking it altogether. Nearly all the best race gowns of this season have closely resembled evening eve-ning dresses, that is to say. they have had decollete necks, short sleeves and filmy draperies. It is not at all easy to distinguish between day and evening eve-ning gowns just now unless one makes ! a careful study of materials. It is not considered correct to wear metallic ;j brocades in the daytime nor paillettes unless the latter he skillfully intermingled inter-mingled with fine silk embroidery, but ! very many of the best and most ex-! ex-! pensive race dresses are richly J trimmed with jet and steel fringes aud ;; with embroideries worked in jet steel ! and moonlight heads. It is as I have said a wonderful year, and It must be admitted an extravagant ex-travagant one. Never have I known money spent so freely as at the present pres-ent moment, and by the most unexpected unex-pected people. As to the prices of the Paris restaurants especially those situated in the Iiols de Boulogne it is enough to make one gasp with horror; one has Indeed to think, not twice, but many times, before Inviting a few friends to afternoon tea at an outdoor out-door restaurant. Paris Profiteers Busy. Of course, It Is true that prices are high everywhere, and for everything, but that does not account for the utterly ut-terly outrageous prices that are now-being now-being ascd in Paris for simple articles arti-cles of food and of dress. People insist in-sist that the mischief has been done ly rich young soldiers back from the front, who have not hesitated to make "a big splash." There may be some truth in this, hut It Is not all the truth; some people are ma!;'.!!? v,vz profits ever necessi ties of the hour, and a day of reckon ing will surely come. At the big race meetings we have seen a great many picturesque wraps, which suggest delightful things for the autumn. The quaint Manon cape., ful" and voluminous, is still a strong fa vorite. It is made of satin or peau de soie and lined throughout with the softest duvetyn, in some pale neutral tint, or a vivid color, such as rose Du barry or leaf green. A black Manon cape, lined with pah beige duvetyn, is a precious posses sion. It is warm, picturesque in oufc line, becoming and cozy. The Paris-iennes, Paris-iennes, especially our smart young actresses, ac-tresses, wear these loose cloaks with immense grace and charm. They have a clever way of drawing them in at the hem to give the trouser effect shown in the Redfern sketch. Gorgeous Evening Wraps. For Biarritz and Deauvi'.le, for chilly chil-ly evenings, similar wraps are lined with bright rose or green velours de laine, and a special feature is made of the big .Manon hood. These cloaks will be worn in the daytime, too, over lace and linen dresses, the loose fronts thrown back and the cape hood falling off the shoulders. I am sending you a sketch of the latest rue de la Paix millinery, models specially designed for the first race meeting at Dowuville, It sho-i a really exquisite hat created by Talbot, Tal-bot, The shape w as directoire and the hat was made of black lacquered straw, witli deep rose Stantung to line llieibrim. The trimming was cunningly arranged. A long, wide, black satin ribbon had wreath of exquisite pink water lilies attached to it in front. This ribbon was passed around the high 'crown of the hat, tied loosely at the back and then allowed to fall In long, loose ends over the shoulders. Popular Style of Trimming. This style of trimming is a Talbot pecialty. I have seen it repeated with various flowers, and with flowers and fuuits imixed. The directoire shapes are more fashionable than ever; they have been found almost universally becoming and they supply a picturesque pictur-esque headdress which is exactly suitable suit-able for wearing with the present-day dresses of rather fussy outline. Many of the newest hats show long noatiirg ribbons, m velvet or satin, aud it may be said that the floating A-eil is more in favor than ever, especially espe-cially for seaside and country wear: we do not see it very often in town. White chip hats covered with Shantung Shan-tung or tussor are going to be the craze of the season. For morning wear, to accompany simple tussor tailored suits, I have seen white chip sailor shapes covered on the outer side with tussor and trimmed with two large white wings. |