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Show if BE- IHigh Collaion I r theStylfe List H m The collar li Uio most striking point H , of difference between tho suits ot last H f i;enr nnd thoso ot this winter. As B T (far os the cut of tho suits themselves 3 I Is concerned, writes a fashion corre- In spondent, thero Is so much latitude that It Is dllllcuU to pin ono's fnltb to any typo. Tho stralKhtllno coat B may bo said to bo tho most popular. B Any number of short box coats nro H seen. Theso find popularity with tho B younger set. Perhaps tho reason for tho lonRcr strolghtllno cont taking precedence K over nil others Is that It was brought H out earlier In tho season nnd might Hi ho tormetl n stylo now In full swny. Hi Wltllo tho box coat Is not an nbso-HI nbso-HI lutely now thing having mado Its H debut somo time ngo It recently has H been exploited to n constdcrnblo ox-Hi ox-Hi tent by somo of tho best French nnd H ' American houses. Mmo. Jenny, for H one. makes much of tho very short H ; box coat A fow rlpplo conts nro K seen, but theso nro In tho minority. H ;, Collars aro high. Tho chief req-H req-H ulslto of a collar Is that It must bo H ' high. It may top a vest, mufllo tho H ' throat nnd fasten In tho back, or It Bk may tako Its Inspiration from tho (II-HJy (II-HJy rcctolro and 11 aro In tho back and at !tho sides. Although many are cut la V shnpo at tho front to give freedom, Mil' . H An Attractive Suit of Black Velours Hv do Lalne Trimmed With Qray As. HH trachan. HH they still corao well up about tho HH head and curs. Whcrcus tho high HH collars seen on coats In winters ro HH ccntly passed buttoned up nhout the HJ neck In somo way, this year they HH" often nro open In front. High collars HJ' of fur aro shown across the front, HH. wltllo tho back of tho collar may bo HH of cloth, HH , Coats Uneven of Hem. HhI Tho uuuvenness of tho bottoms ot IHJE coats Is n noteworthy feature. .In H7I this they follow tho lead of dresses, iMl which aro us uneven nt tho hems ns. : can bo. A suit recently seen Is mi ex- HI ; nmplo of tho unovenncss of the hot- HE ' toms of both coat and skirt. The Hi i model Is from Martial ct Annum). The HI Jackets of suits shown by this house Kf . aro of nil lengths, from tho short lit H tlo boxllko Jackets to those reaching HI almost to tho hem of tho skirt. H j Navy bluA voloura do laluo Is used for this suit, nnd tho pointed edge pnncls, which extend below tho edgo of both Jacket and skirt, aro embroidered embroi-dered In gray. Tho gray embroidery also appears on tho narrow cuff bauds. The one-button closing Is extensively used by this Arm as n fastening for suit Jackets. Tho vest and high collar col-lar are of squirrel. Tho skirt Is short und narrow. Wider sleeves nro In evidence. Ever so many aro looso nnd flowing. Tho boll-shaped three-quarters length Is very much liked. Tho long, straight, full coat steoven, with deep embroideries, embroi-deries, which wero so much u fenturo of hist Benson's collections, still aro seen. Bulloz, who Is noted for his beautiful beau-tiful suits, mnkes Jackets which aro straight, loosely belted and. of medium me-dium length, loosely belted with it two-Inch two-Inch belt, which Is twisted und pusses across tho center front, whero It buttons. but-tons. Tho ends of tho belt, which widen gradunlly to about eight Inches, fall to tho bottom of tho skirt. The skirt Is embroidered all qvor with enormous taupe plush roses." Theso roses rcnppenr on tho Jacket nt tho hips and on tho collar. Tlrjht Skirts, Coat to Knoc. Another Interesting Idea Is the making mak-ing ot h belt, six Inches In width, which folds over tho center front In ono plcco with tho bnck panel of the Jacket. Still another suit of bluo serge shows n very tight skirt nnd kneo-length kneo-length coat, which Is tremendously full In tho skirt. This fullness Is let In nt tho hips and held out at the horn by means of bnnds and niching ot tho serge. Tho high collar Is made of nn Immense serge ruche. Bulloz's collnrs nro of exaggerated height on both dresses nnd suit's. Soft fur collnrs on suits como literally nbovo tho nose, so that the eyes Just peep over tho edge. A model ot Interest shows n cord lacing at tho bnck from tho top of tho high collur to the waistline, where It ties In n bow with streamers. No special .note tins been made of tho materials used In suits, becauso thero Is uothtng strikingly new In them. Wo have previously noted tho use ot broadcloth nnd other old-fashioned, smooth-finished cloths. Of courso, thero Is any amount of velours du Inlno and duvctyu, with tho cheviots chevi-ots nnd striped woolens for tho moro strictly tailored suits. Colors ore rnthcr somber, II I nek, brown and gray nro In tho lead. With the uso of gray for suits, seal has be-como be-como oven moro popular, because It makes such n beautiful contrast to tho soft gray cloth, as well as following tho voguo for gray nnd black. Ilullox tins successfully launched some splendid conts mndo of cloth, with fur trimming, notably In combinations com-binations of gray velours do -lain and senlskln fur. Mnny brown fnrs, which aro very beautiful In themselves, could not be considered for use with grny, White furs nro used In connection with hlnck cloth. White skunk In used In the fonn of enormous collars and cuffs worked In vertical lines on beautifully beauti-fully brocaded evening coats. The different feelings toward the use of trimming, oh evinced by the different dressmakers. Is Interesting Some us It sparingly, and others lavishly. Those who favor Its extensive exten-sive uso employ It In tho form of largo collars nnd cuffs, nnd for both deep bands nnd narrow edgings. C'herult Is one great designer who fnvors fur. Callot. nnothcr authority, author-ity, uses It sparingly. So we may pleaso ourselves as to whether wc shall wenr fur or not nnd also consult con-sult our pockethonks. |
