Show I I I I II Copyright 1909 by Examiner American Great Britain Rights il I N L S nT C Cake 1 I aKe r ake Ready to 5 ue e ze Your U aist Ci Cire e Double ft s v f Cei e tl h aid ard laIf J-laIf Its ls U h a d to Drape Your H lips i Ps 50 So i ii i their Every e I i U Be perceptible r 1 I A j 1 r r r t y r s i 4 i I f I HE flower wind ew sways aya not more THE J upon Its stem than does the feminine flower of ot society In ll her r sheath gown beneath the weight of ot y her Spring millinery mach ach emphasizes the the other and while one marvels that thata a womans woman's coiffure manages to support the tho creation upon It t ono won wonders ers too through what hat shrinking process women tr havo passed pass aS 3 that even en rotundity has hAJJ y given place to sylph sylph like proportions and nI angles to willowy grace v. v i Who could Imagine a three quarter length loose Joose coat conveying an Impre- Impre ton sion of th the tho outlines of ot an Aphrodite ln In It t as the coat In figure A does doe t t Genius In fn dressmaking h has reached a point paint where Instead of ot the human form torm divine all who can n attaIn It aPP h th the divine i human form torm What hat matter If It ono one another part ot of the anatomy I la Is Pinched and padded 7 The result Is le so lovely that any meaDS meana appears justifiable to ac achl It peas nes neS Figure Ure from ro r A A. the wears an aIr Rr ot of f chlo aloof aloot- but Jt It Is JS QuIto wIthin coat ot of r ordinary s j-s make home bome n the reach ot of the who has hu an eye for tor lines Unu and the S sense ot of f an tt for tor Affects Hang Nang the o below coat waist line fine a bit ti your Tour own and squeeze 3 our own j i HS waist IIno so that the suggestion ot of It Its l J cu Jd i caul mute ment of ot the wearer of that coat Note tho the slant of or the button loops downward In front That Is t the tho o crucial test teat of at making this garment Just f right Big braid knobs 1 l' l L' L fasten with a loop sewed over to flat at the right upon side aids the tho right and the shaped envelope tab that buttons across the bottom of ot this coat Is of ot corded silk In the tho same ame shade shad of or smoke brown that characterizes the go gown n of ot Bedford Tho The tab may be of ot the dross material It If one wants to Accentuate length lenth of ot lines JInes In a short woman for this tab 1 Is really th the end nd of ot a bolt oett that ap appears through slits In the coat cont at nt regular intervals Interval The Tho effect of or this disappearing belt Is ver very decora decoro- tive and admits of ot rich color Ides The long rovers revers of ot the garment ar are faced and turned over as are arc tho the u turned over front and side aide edges of or the coat skirts showing the i trimming of or corded silk Bilk Tho The back breadth Is slit silt and faced at the bottom In n the same sam manner but comes over the shoulder In Ina Ina Ina a surprising way and terminates In square collar ends Belt and slashed effects are oro repeated In In tho fitted coat sleeves that open over a cuff Uke sec seo- section tion attached to the lining The hIgh high skirt clings to the tho hips gives at the tho waist and flops about the feet teet In a truly delightful manner I It t la In the skirt that an amateur la lp Ip apt to trip metaphorically and actually Seams Seam a must be bo few tew and the material supple Fo For Fo the rest an on unlined hem and an absence e of petticoats petticoat II achieve a graceful drapery draper drape that Is as aa charming to look at aa as It Is 1 e 4 Y r J x I I A AThe The New Feature In This Coat Is Its Long Waist Line and Low Slanting Fastenings Note the Slant of the Button Loops Downward In Front Just the rever Teve raver o e to move about In Even Fifth avenue n would turn It Us its head hea d to gaze caz upon the tho striking novelty Introduced introduced Introduced Intro Intro- In figure C. C A gown In one piece Alec sounds BOund quite the tho thing thing- for a mermaid bu but ono one doesn't expect to see It upon an nn American AmerIcan Am Am- woman on dr dry land The Tho upper part of ot the gown shown In figure B is a single bias piece place stretched over a fitted lining and with one seam scam In the back Where here wrinkles must appear In such a aown gown own a heaY heavily ly wro girdle of ot em em- broidered gold sold blue and green gren encircles encircle the bodice and terminates In a n raised raise butterfly design under the bust In front The colors In this striking girdle sole sol sole ornament of ot th the gown gown are aro repeated I In sleeves of ot a a. Q w Iridescent tissue in 1 n which blue gold and green shimmer ill Ilka lUe tho states scales upon a mermaid The ilea tion Is carried out In the material an and color of the dress blue satin sail stretching up to contrast with mth a yoko yoke of ot dotted gold net Human fullness Is fu furnished fur tur- tb the gown but an on Insert of ot m ma- ma tt 4 This 1 Gown PIGS Has Iw No u. I-u. Placket t B But ut It Opens r Over Both HI Hips The Turned Up r ik r Por Portions tons I IBack of th the e E Empire mp I re Jacket Stand Out Like Wall Pockets Front and Back Views a 4 F 4 t 9 sA p J sl a Ji fi yr u t ti t tr r f l O V 1 on v q rt 4 I r r o f n r t r vi 1 e P I E Y i r 1 T l a A y i r t. t B i t r A New Tight Skin ht Piece One Gown of Abs Absinthe n Blue Satin With Its New Nevi Newa You Shield Cant Can't Front Fron Fin Find New That a S Sleeve and New Sash and ned With It eh Only One Seam and 1 I I i r a aShield beneath side straps below the hips From girdle to strap tho the clinging satin satins is s laid In close folds that shimmer with every motion of ot tho the wearer and fall tall In waves of or shadow and glistening light down upon tho the floor Of Ot course the blue hat is trimmed with black velvet and ond black block plumes with a gold cold and green cabochon upon ono one aide almost big enough to cover tho the blue- blue booted foot toot that peeps out from frog tho the hum horn of this ono piece gown Blue satin forms torms the foundation of ot tho the tight skin robe In figure C. C Just why blue Let me whisper the tho secret that blue blue lt If dark enough enough tends tends to make matte a woman look several times as slender as ns she would appear if It swathed In brown or yellow or almost any other color This graceful gown own then Is built tomake to tomake make a 0 thin woman Ignorant of ot the arts of ot dress look like a telegraph pole while an any other woman would appear In It exQuisItely ex ox fragile and ond willowy Black gauze is draped and draun dran n over blue satin so eo that the movement mo of ot the tho combination Is like that of ot a a. wave with tho the shadow of ot a cloud resting upon It It lt Is fitted to the figure by means of ot folds laid In the tho gauze down tho the right aide toward the front and the tho left lett side toward i r tho the back On One On must bo be b born m l 0 with a figure Ure or a purse to dare dore attempt so strong an accent upon defined clearly d feminine outlines In a long IonS point a at al to t front and back bock hangs the black gauze gauz o i overskirt o not tho the least marvel In Its construction construction con con- being the thc full drapery that falls fall from beneath the lower folds Glittering from tho the dusk of black and blue shine shin e two big buttons of ot knotted gold-knotted braid and the bottom of ot the overskirt Is enrIched en cn- Ached rIched with a a. broad band bond of ot gold embroidery embroidery em- em picked out with blue Gold om broidered black lace laco forms torms a yoke joko oko of ot very open mesh which terminates h In t short open sleeves faced In tho edges edge s I with a foam of ot white Tho The startling note not e of ot tho the costume Is the tho band of ot pink satin Un that lies across across the bust A lark dark facing c to tho the lint hat of ot N Neapolitan straw renders render s more vivid the touch of ot pink In tho the garnitures garnitures garnitures gar gar- of ot blue and ond gold with tho the Frenchy French Y and fashionable twist of oC black b velvet volve t around the crown that mako make up the trimmIngs trimmings trimmings trim trim- of ot this finishing touch to an unUsual unusual unusual un un- usual costume Good Good-byo to gaping gaping- plackets an and d Placket fasteners that aro forever foreve r coming oft off and disclosing the tho present presen t lack of ot underwear to any ny passer passer passer-by b bon Y on tho the street stroet A A now new gown makes Its bow this Spring and It hasn't an any y placket It merely opens on each side 0 t I A Striking Gown In One Piece In Which Clinging Folds of Black Gauze Swing Out and In Which No NoOne NoOne No One Ono Can Tell Where the Waves of r Blue Satin Drapery Come From Front View and Back as thou though h one had taken two apron aprons and hung ono one In front and one l with no means of or Joining them be because because beof be- be cause of ot tho the narrow or the tho maThat material ma ma- That doesn't mean moan th that there thore Is nomore no nomore more dress to be mentioned l' l Far lar or from It It t In lieu of or side gor gores s hang double pleats from the tho short bodice to the floor These ore are topped by R a RJ sash that passes around tho upper part of the life lower skirt and ond appears outside the thc front and back of ot the upper upper upper up- up up up- per ono one Fancy Iancy a sash that Is s hl hidden on each side aide by curved points of ot the tho gown coming up and fastening to the bodIce over It t Its whole service ler Is not merely merel to look Jook black and ond give a slim and ond slinky line to tho the waist valet but also to get s-et a firm hold from tho the under aide eldo of ot the tho apron corners of tho the front and back skirt pieces Tho The most cun cun- fit is hs that which appears to be I semi fitted and suggests U a slenderness of ot waist waist-lino that tho the most tightly laced princess is Incapable of ot ImpartIng Imparting imparting Impart Impart- ing to a a. figure Just as QS though In sagging swIngIng swingIng swing- swing Ing Inc out lines of ot the tho sl skirt shirt sides aides were not novel nD enough h to mako make overy every daughter of or Evo Eve t twist her neck to examine them ai is long an as they arc In sight tho the clever modiste has hos mado them even oven more cons conspicuous con by embroidering a 0 foliage and n flower design In white upon the tho lI light fight ht blue pongee silk of ot which tho the gown Is built To top tho black tl sash sh glimmers glimmer a band of ot silver sliver cloth This disappears beneath the loose short bodice and reappears again In the tho yoke roke Black Dlack Ul ck satin finishes n a silver cloth collar and gives a 0 note of or completeness to the sleeves Here It shows Itself In an on edge at tho wrist of or ortho tho the white n net nd t and In tho the loops and buttons which connect th tho e edges of or both under and ond upper sleeve slee with the tho portions Just above them A eller ell sil silver ell ell- ver er band encircles tho the bottom of or th the e sleeve ju just Juat t tho the black edge of ot satin and silver sliver ornaments decorato the yoke and lend a glimmer slimmer to the white net un un- where they button along the outer arm White embroidery embellishes embel lishes tho the shoulders and nd upper part of ot th the e shaped shield bodice and extends belo below w tho the armhole both In tho the front and bad back k upon the tho loose squarely draped pieces piece S that constitute tho main portions of ot th tho c bodice The little up turned-up cuff curt of or th the e short satin aUn o Is embroidered In white whit o silk and this decoration is repeated In th tho o up turned up portions of or both the tho front an and I back of or tho the bodice Ono One expects all alt sorts ort of or surprises In to tho the methods of ot adorning the tho front of ot a Iro gown n but when a woman turns he he- he back hack on you OU and you jou see sea tho the bottom of or her jackol Ilke short waist turned up and caught ht on each side In points an on- on riched with embroidery and showing a 3 band of sliver silver and folds of or black satin below bolow It and when tho the pointed of ot a skirt disappear Just lust under th the sides of or this novel Jacket bodice and ami allow tho the middle top of ot tho skirt to sag sag well well one does atop and wonder what we will havo o next In the tho way ot or dresses and also aleo leo how any ono one ever aver conjured up anything so very chic au awl and l pretty out of ot a suggestion estion afforded by two aprons of ot narrow dimensions and sagging belt lines line As to the under sides of ot the skirt of or course they are of the same samo material and are so cunningly IY sewed In a seam beneath the apron ed edges that a separate sepa sepa- separate rate skirt Is Implied and a a. clinging outline to the tho hip assured with sufficient suf suf- of ot material at tho the bot but bottom bottom tom torn of ot the skirt to afford ease case of ot movement move move- mont moat and that floppy effect of ot encumbering encumbering bering bering- the feet teet which Is 13 s so desirable In a now Spring gown sown One hears a good deal of ot talk about the tho skirts of ot this season flat HUL sisters mint mine when you jou ou hear tales of ot a skirt 1 and obliterated watt wai lino line mako make ready to squeeze your waist waistline line Into double Its length and halt half ui l width and to so stretch material over your our hips that their every cry movement vv will bo as perceptible as are aro the tho motions motions mo mo- tlona of or a n lady hippopotamus under her natural drapery g 1 f I I 1 I iI i I r 1 a |