Show III 1 t w u 1 1 I- I l l j r I COO r l' l i f t ff d' d r P L Ii w tf r f. f 0 t. t tt I t Ad m A J 4 3 r. 1 UI l t i t f Gt 1 M i i. i f fr 1 r 4 I z t 7 I L f fa f a J h f I t tv v 1 r aJ a J r Ar i 4 I 1 t J t 1 j I II I I I f i 1 r Y I S Ii i 4 f ra I r i Yo i till I. I e i 4 i S T A t J k C i t i If f i 4 i f M f WY- WY 1 1 r r iI R. R N I Modes of the saison Demi-saison That Are Prophetic The Prophetic The Tailored Type Prevails Velvets Prevails Velvets and Silks Combine Poplins Combine Poplins in High Favor Favor Elaboration Elaboration in Trimmings Trimmings Some Some o ne Novelties and Some Conspicuous Revivals f fo The Tho entire world feminine looks to 1 Paris for tor its ils fashions if not for tOI It its opinions Not hot that the ii herself L Is la ever eyer and always such uch a at t 4 modish little person in inI I r her her clothes but rather because Paris Pari Parisis is the gathering pl place e for every ery nation na na- Lion tion under the sun for Cor the moneyed aristocrat anal nd plebiscite ati alike e and Paris n with republican tervo 01 greets them all with open arms and asks of them merely rely that they be Interesting Intel tl spend freely ly and even ven 41 lavishly 1 and n above and aud beyond that all that the they t like Ilke Hk and appreciate ate Paris Theres There's 8 the secret of the supremacy of l Paris Darla She draws the devotees of or all the arts to her hor cent center I and she sue gives them o one Ill and ond all the opportunity of oC their thelt lives r to In gratify their tastes their vl wishes hc their ambitions ambitions- She cat caters 11 tint Nit last Ins k and amI all the thc time lime to the stranger within I her gates R For the world world- feminine there area are arc a opportunities I upon hon n every hand to gratify the mo most moat f luxurious luxurious of 01 tastes the most fastidious Idea as to dress dretoS and s. s It may mat be accomplished at a A. vast t. t expenditure or 1 ab again again if ln If th the be b aUve to tb her opportunities it pl U may bo be a with the minimum of r expense e It Il alt aJI lies with willi the woman bet herself elf for for- Paris Parts can Cann gratify every taste and nd every overy t purse puree It will take a long purse however to 10 follow Collow the latest styles tyles in all rJ of their Parl Parisian perfection cUon or If the purse pUlSe bo ho lacking then It will require an unusual degree of Ingenuity In U the e woman of slender resources to present present pre pre- pre pre- sent a n l really modish appearance in inthe inthe f the coming winter whiter styles stylee Materials are arc more lavishly used and cut into I trimmings aro are of the most ornate and nod elaborate order and amI the mode Itself is 18 of ot lh the tho- ultra character that demands first u a goodly degree of ot taste to sot soI sc- sc t I 1 I lect an and a n next goodly degree ree of style tu to carry off of well A comprehensive r c-r of models mod mod- els ils that have been ushered In on this thi side hide of ot the Atlantic with the aegis of or famous to their names cover trying points afforded a chance chanco to sum up the rno mot moAt t. t prominent features of or the mode t for r the late autumn and carl early winter inter seasons For one thing there arc are far more of materials and far tar tarr r fewer combinations combinations- of color than In Inthe inthe the Immediate past Quite a fad It Is ti II have a n. three piece costume in tn which one color idea Is carried out but each fach piece the piece the coat t the e skirt and the lit lit- blouse all nil made up In different materials A charming model by ly d illustrates this tendency The little coat with Its c conspicuously short- short back is in a brown chiffon chIlTon velvet v The skirt is iB u of a tortoise shell brown blown sedo odo silk stilt while the little blouse Is In a harmonious tint of brown chiffon chitton chit chiC fon ton relieved relieved- with white while lace and ir tI de sole oio There Is a duel a n between I hp he nod and severe evert and the tho more 1 frivolous and fussy modes both of which arc alc expected to be concocted by the tho tailor milor milter r than b by the dressmaker Just JURt at this writing the native P prefers the lite latter type but those French who prefer to follow foreign 1 Ideas 1 ens to emu emulate lute the and the Americana American in their love and aud following tollo of or le Ie sport to such sech the tho more masculine masculino type of dress appeals as being better in keeping with their own tendencies in tn the tho wa way of pursuits and amusements The color olor scheme for the tho winter promises to be e an Interesting one Trying Trying Try Try- ing to an extreme extremo will materials prove unless selected with due taste and skill There are arc deep and dense lense shades of gray the gray the light lighter r tints seem scorn to have havo been retired with the tho summer toilettes i lief fa r lO toy ring out t every r 55 iio t l nd VCr ncr Yf lIow tent ten ten- t uc-ncy uc li ncy in ht the skin shin VV looking looking I fawns ns soft sort cru crushed fruit tones that tinge time lin e on reds browns of ot the polished and amI the golden copper hues greens g that take on metallic lights and some hues that are arc vividly brilliant arc are what the best makers makers are alC displaying di dis playing and In the more expensive ma- ma Variations of those colors color in less extreme tones arc are selected In the i iless 1 less s costly and perhaps more staple I materials For example one oho s sees c all all' allor of or tho tints mentioned In The vel vel- 1 v that arc are slated for a succession ot nt their last seasons season's vogue vos-ue but in those the brilliancy is toned down quite a a. little and antI the result is fat far more acceptable than if IC the more Int in intense intense In- In t tense n-e n hue be presented In broa broadcloths the there c is absolutely no no f hunt hint of a n waning modishness ant and here huo there are most delightful delis halftones halftones half half- tones Lones and amI tints and nuances that thal II It takes lakes a trained eye to appreciate There are ale some exquisite yellows that will trim with the popular combination combination tion of or heavy lace an and furs Curs to 10 perfection perfection tion lion and provided that the Ule fur Is permitted per per- permitted to Intervene between the cloth j jand and the complexion the costume cannot can can- can j ot not fail of a n due success s on either blonde or brunette There Is a popular popular lar Jar tradition that a blonde cannot I carry carl carry car car- l ry yellow successfully Cully but a twenty- twenty session at an any good dress dregs goods counter will quickly convince even th the ashen hen blon blonde the blonde the the blonde of or the French that French that there arc are possibilities ties Iles for fOl her in this color that have n luM-n hitherto unsuspected After Altol the broadcloths It ht is cloths clouts c f the shelma type that will find a popular acceptance This may best be d described as a woolen taffeta since the weave is exactly hi to wool what taffeta is in silk Those take all the modish shades beautifully and even evena a slight attempt at elaboration or oCr trimming effect shows up wonderfully w well ell eli upon the smooth and lustrous sur sur- fa face The rte French tailor deems every evelY class of dress goods his own domain differing differing dif dif- iC- iC fering markedly from his American cousin in this respect The entire range r-ange of or cloths Is of course conceded him Mm but in addition he reaches out and makes maltes his own of velvet and vel vel- silks of many kinds and characters characters char char- sheer sheel voiles volles and tissues and does not hesitate to use lace in quantity quantity quantity quan quan- and to combine braids and chiffon ton fon furs UIS and all in the same MOle trimming scheme A master of ot combinations Is this French tailor and while the mere mention lc of or the conjunction conjunction con con- junction of or such wearing materials 1 RV sound Mound crude and inappropriate just one glance at al the up made-up model that conveys them is 18 enough to convince convince con con- vince the most skeptical that the ro- ro HO so gained is harmonious and arlI ar- ar lI tit tlc tic as well Poplins have sprung into a sudden favor vor after anel a n lon long period of probation proba proba- tion lion at the hands of or exclusive and fastidious fastidious fas fas- leaders of or the mode anode Queen Quean Alexandra and the ladies ladles of or her court and their many friends and relatives among the haute noblesse of or both France and England have long favored fa favored ra- ra the most elaborate co costumes in Irish poplin decorated with Irish crochet crochet cro ero- II chet of the finest variety The genuine poplin that halls hails from flom Ireland is hand woven upon the thc time old-time loom and its wearing qualities are arc proverbial on the th other othel side of or th the ocean Parisian makers favor this dainty and yet durable dUI material mightily In Inthe tho the program for next season There are arc charming effects in the colleen I poplin plain and lustrous that yields delightful results with a modicum of or trimming Velvet is the recognized complement of the new poplins and find either elthel luce either In the natural tint or d dyed cd to tu coincide in color with the tho material adds adds a ca tight light touch that cannot fall of or admiration The short effects that thal are arc c characteristic of tho the season are arc cloy clev r I 1 rl t I t I it iti l i erly contrasted with the return of the 1 bloused modes The little tittle blouse coat coa coa with a peplum or 01 added over 01 tho the hips Is 18 back nek once more and lt effects In th the tatter latter mode mo mode are are Haltering alike to the tall and short to the slender slender slender slen slen- der and the tho more store developed figure M b ir Iah fit fitT T Z T b 1 jp jpe e PY r f f 1 fr a rr i v t 4 tf f rd v r s. s 1 o or r d p J r. r l w c 1 ff t tt 4 t SI N 3 4 ay W f Mj J- J I Z |