| Show f ka y f 0 j- j r I r df oJ J I Ll y r IY Y V V V 97 9 ir 7 q P-q O a U l 1 l. l I 0 OJ I J. J rr C- C r J f l t b 1 sr 4 lur I 1 JK f l. l t c Ir Y 1 t ha b l J J. J t. t fN J Or I II A 7 io I a. a AA t W I I 0 ru J r r 9 j R- R q y T t f ri to u M C i- i R u.- u. r 1 G Cf Yr 1 0 1 51 B f Y t r I 1 rJ f. f i 1 j J ft j F le J r v. v th f S Ya Y o X x 1 7 H- H 1 x 1 1 I MI v t H 00 cH l oi Y rJ 1 c f 1 l WJ n J. J t J Ii J rr- rr i t a w I. I 1 1 W L II IZ I il r. r 1 J z c c rw t. t t I j f. f 0 q g x Y 5 i j. 1 r rr r t tf t y v. v 4 u- u r S f. f Y iJ 1 J 7 f i 1 t. t c. c f 7 1 flA C I tJ i 10 q fl r P r 1 d 1 y X B T i i- i h r i 1 1 fA 9 I KF x 1 f 17 di gj v fr- fr 1 Ii W y I j Ax A 8 1 i I i r t l l i J 11 tx l fm if j t J. J b x Y J N 4 t I G i r. r i 1 4 J t t ff 4 1 i 10 w j y tC j r 7 I. I J iy r 0 f h.- h. 4 p. p C f k i J fL v Yi r. r c. lf II 4 i lJ li g J 1 IT f r I l f W J. J Plain 1 sued mill Severe Typos Types o of the Tailor Tailor- Hindi lump Parisian lan Man made odds Models 1 a of Cut and md Trimmings Skirts Sl Skirts Grog I Fuller and mul 1 P es Se Sea Sen liter That Bolero Bo Iio- ICU lero 1 in ill Many Gub GuliS rumors rUmor that th the mannish and severe fo-evere type of tailor made anti and thatis thatis that thatis is alwa always construed to w mean coats iha ln 8 J of II u nil 1 b b 1 t Ie r I nr trousers tro thai tha R the en engaging young female can well veil wear wear have have been rife apt and rampant for fOI some little time the French tapers tailor i. aro are sending over o a as well wen as us the adra admirable adS adi ad ad- S ra i r mirable gowns that Ime m talent re roi roi ro- ro i duce duces both go a long lone way to c a- a ji dIet dict those rumors Of course ate always alwan those tn to j whom the tho pla 11 and n c even mannish h 1 J tailor made appeals more than anything anything anything any any- thing else and nd the they of or courser weli wl wel- i como come loudly anything that approaches oven even remotely their ta style of f dress dretel 11 Hence perhaps the Uw rumors re re- referred rf fored to We e have most of us heard 1 of the young lady Woo hao J ncr nel p per r- r trall trail painted b by a a. famous artist our one i whoso signature is hi exchanged OD only Iy for fr fora a cheque in hl five s. s Her r oming- oming h. h i out gown own was wag tried S several Ial dinner and awl s likewise am and her 1 family were shocked a beyond ft l when expression when she he declared that tha a alinen I r 1 j linen shirtwaist V l t stiff high choker col col- collar lar Jar and ami a knotted hand four cravat 1 should go 0 down down to to po posterity as her hll r. r favorite favorite- costume tum for fur for forshe she ahe declared I anti and with doubtless with more inure th thUn lI a I con of truth In the declaration that i I ho looked 1 her very ry t best in hl inthis r this j garb rh and seemed simpering and p Inane in III any nth cr A dech decision on in I which the theartist artist al' evidently concurred j 1 for fOI he hc has hail borrowed the portrait z n tn mall many an 3 times an and oft ot ro for exhibition purn pur- pur i I J poses j i However VI I to fo get g-el hack back to lo the tailors Th French women have nover el yielded ix rJ r i gracefully to lo the tI domination of the made tailor e and even eun their plainest I f r gowns ever eVOl and always display som-e som i little touch of atonement in the way of a Ih touch or nr fixing to relieve Its ItH fc c severity rily When the plain plait Rod nd high r linen men collar J Is u used ll there will be a u wealth of hand ry in hr I Ip upon n it all and urd it will tl serve serve- to lo top a stiff stier and cravat II of the finest linen with French kno knots s an and hemstitched 1 hems all f around f The trl trig and trl trim n Eton the more mor w daring bolero many and cl clever ver Cu coiS- coiS t promises between those two models are arc what the h he heat best t shops n are r. r showing in lh the now now models model's tapering skirts that display a t delightful l amount of or around the feet t t Of course this extra f from fm m 7 tins the hip down n means that all of or Fi f skirts skirls are and must be ho longer that thal the tho comfortable little ha has re even if it It tl is not acknowledged g its sentence of banishment from flom the haunts of fashion and that wo- wo shall go around this thiN coming season cason clutch- clutch I f. f Jn lug Ing several yards of full skirls in Um ar a 3 i r- r hand that grows cramped from its I uncomfortable duty duly all nil too soon I I Luckily however all of these same sarno materials material aro an In it the much to much to dc si sherd chiffon weights and weaves and so 0 the case Is not so bad as presented m I Added to which there never hover yet ot wa was wasa wasu a u woman tall ur or short r or 01 stout toul who did ill not realize to the full how extremely becoming a CL atrain train is isto isto to her appearance vt I But Hut the smart little tittle fr Bit stilt Rull It will hula hold Its ilK place In the Iho American Ameri Ameri- y i can wardrobe and for quite it- it j I sometime to lo cm conic come More and antI more mon r are are we we aH asserting OUI our declaration of lr in independence in- in dependence in things other than pol pol- I Hies and o tit of such fa fashion h and our OUt perr per per- r onal col COI convenience therein is the eh chief lef The Illustration upon this page Ilage de depicts dej do- do j delightfully the r range nse of styles Jes that thal aro are being shown for Cor lH present M nt and v- v future wear Delicate colorings prevail pre pvc wail vail and there thel is a u charming amount of ur latitude hoth nth as fiS to color and material mate mate- tt rial vial where trimming in is concerned d tipon tip tip- p- p on nn such Huel s sheer beer fabrics as chiffon mo mo- i. i hair hall Henrietta and ami the flour finer t broadcloths the present fancy Caney is all N i for tur bias blaH bands all and folds tucks and andt trappings t of or the material Itself Sometimes the thc clever tailor uses those thos e bias Blatt bands ill In just the very y same Wa way alf as ashe he would braids s and the results result s e of or this experiment are arc fetching Int in In- In J. J T i f. f t AW s r r. r t 1 z H tj fi k Jl r II r. r t i rw j r M C 1 v vr f r y s JJ i y Ie deed deer BI-aJ BI 8 too are in high esteem and und velvet velvet- ribbons ns receive a n. dignified reco recognition while as M for Cor those thoc tight little muo ribbon and noel tinsel tin Un tinsel sel cl braids th braids they they- y y call them at al t the counter counter- counter they edge he all sorts of devices froma from a fold or fir ora a a tuck luck to an bolero and skirl panels i rho The dye dye de wt vat t IH still an au important Item where C fashions fashion's whims are ale concerned con con- corned for this fa fad for fOI the monotone demands demand that each an and every evry Item Hem of oC the costume shall correspond in color wh where rc some seine little touch m or color of-color col r contrast Is la deemed advise advis- advis alic e U will It-will will HI usually be found to i con-i sl slat l In lit the introduction of a lighter or o more preferably a darker tint lint of or tho the same color as the thc bOil body of or the gown Where hero the tho dressier type tYlle of or tho the tail tall made or J IK under consideration the tho designer de de- designer de- de signer allows himself a n. delightful l latitude lat lat- In cut line and anti trim Little boleros that stand w well awa away from lom the figure and end their short career an anywhere between the shoulder der r blades and ancl the waist line are aro In Inthe Inthe the highest favor faor And they do llo present pre pre- r sent ent a n charming contrast to the long coats tint I ha I have hold sway during the thc winter time lime covering crins up many faults faulls of figure OulI and making malin the best of or such uch good rood points as their wearer ma may yes pos posses ses S sossA A short and snappy little bolero representing a lavish amount of or hand c. c embroideries elles done in silver bullion thread tops a 11 0 of a medium shade of or saxe blue broadcloth There is Iii an irregularly shaped band all allaround allaround allaround around this 10 louse loose 1 little apology for tor a n. coat In which the design follows I broken geometrical Sines The center is hs all aU done with a bl big snowball err effect ct I in chenille somewhat akin lo Io that one sees gees sees upon a fashionable face veil this too showing strong glints of or the thc precious prec prec- ious leus metal The skirt is altogether cthel plain shirred shirled at al the 1111 sides and with H n broad double box pleat falling from the back Into an extremely full train Sleeves to all of the dressier typos types are short hort some of them puffy but the later JatoI ones built upon a o pagoda design which Is not so likely to crease ce or lr crush a sheer chiffon sleeve vo be- be e- e noath neath Ji j i J t fi i t l I RICH AND DRESSY TAILOR-MADE TAILOR MODELS Tho rhe lm Parisian lan l M Style 1 lc I There Is an air all of extravagance to I this little gov gown n that an analysis of or H Us its construction will not bear aa out but bul this Is accomplished hed In the cut and anel line line- than by hy u use e of an any vast amount of labor material or 01 trimming Fashioned Fash Fash- fondd in a n chiffon mohair of or palest t ci silvery r g gray a the skirt Is one uno of tho those c models that present a ulnes of or some soho two vo yards ards at the hem the soft ort weave laid in flat pleats at the band hanel and fie falling full folds to the tie feel A j sea lit l volant that follows follo the tho curve of the thc skirt accurately Is posed In lu a t festooned limo lino o abo the hell heiji The Flue mind find front and Ja lc panels aro cleverly constructed In one so that the unbroken line lute at the wal t that fashion demands Is hi C cl ac acre accomplished The TIno little I of or u n. coat coal Is somewhat upon tl tI u order r very short III in the tho back hael arid UI coning coming down to tn a rounded ld point t lq m meet ct the cor coi elet top In hl front rout The sl w too loo Is short and finished with wilt Ta facie frills A touch of or chic hie i is u added ded I ii tr yellow velvet liV L c ribbon that thaL de- de e- e front o of the coat on rill the makes tho the smart little ti 11 that conceals the front fasten fasten- Iii ing ncI Embroidered Boklo and Skirt The The amount of hand work lavished upon on the bolero to this fetching little costume does not by hy any means lido hide its fascination of fir line and cut Simple as it well can CUll be he rind mind standing away loo loosely el from rent the figure il It I Is edged all allaround allaround around with an irregular Im-gular hand band that h la Is embroidered in lines s the center part Is IH slightly shirred to th lh lining there being big French knots Wrought with chenille all over O this part The fhe sleeve Is loo loose c and antl bordered to tu match the lite coaL coat The skirt Is plain at the C editor center front shirred d at the tho sl sides e ant and the extra disposed in ina ina a l broad broa double pleat box-pleat at the thc back Tho Thu skirt ls' ls long I intended to Ho lio on 1 f v s f r 4 aS' aS a rr s r 1 r f Jf o I 1 r r 1 it 1 i i i f p Ii i i r t r 44 I Y l' l lJ i iY J M MI t i 1 r J Y y r os f. f S t tg 4 g x Y i i I y 1 s f. f i. i tf y i Jj y z i. i t J k I l' l f f f W y i t Nw N w s 's b roe novel in The Ube the foot floor for fOI several inches at the tho front cool and fashioned with a decided train In the Die back Is a n. charming charming charm charm- ing little blouse in c chiffon fion to tu match with a wealth of silver sll embroideries upon tho tiro front and short sleeves Th Tb chapeau shows on ono OIW j of the tho later laLm shapes the crown CIO being distinctly dl of or the bell variety the brim narrow and the front ack rick with an upstanding plunge in hi the most fetching wa way was Imaginable A Costume Continue Co t Panels o of various 1 kinds and characters characters char char- decorate the tho skirts of now new models models mod mod- els whether they he be the sensible sensible- r and comfortable Jupe jape of or the mornIngs morn morn- Ings or 01 the thc dancing skirt of or the evening even o In lug ing entertainment In this model of or pale colored biscuit colored broadcloth little cord tucks run In Vs d decorate corate each alternate gore gorc of the 81 skirt and a band hand hando o of the same Mme effective though simple trimming design heads the hem There Theme Is an additional facing of or broad velveteen that thal protects the skirt hem cleverly find and adds much to the life lire and appearance of or the garment The he little lit lit- tle coat Is a fascinating model on which tucks tuck and a velvet ribbon are arc t I 1 i. i a r 7 iii r t 1 cleverly used to lo the thc utmost t advantage ami n. n few handsome buttons help out the design n The Tho coatis coat is short hOIt stopping stop top pint ping tho and amI liu- liu with a II little of If valen- valen lace and antI foe linen around the edge mho Tho sleeve too Is short th the fullness run rut In lengthwise u tucks lucks s the time elbow frill Sonic SUllie Novel Xo Lines in Ll the Hie e The fhe broad box hox pl pleats ats that thal are used u to lo emphasize the back hack an ant and front linos of this costume art are brought up to tu fasten over oer the girdle g sdi so that the unbroken un un- bl broken ken effect of or a ss gown g fa is produced This Tills is hel heightened by hy the Iho lines 14 of the Iho coat wherein rounded tapes talles arc made to tu fall over 0 those pleats with the tho mathematical mathen 11 accuracy ruC racy that distinguished hed thu tho tailors tailor's art Mather n It deep shade of rasp lasp red berry is used and the thc co color scheme Is 18 monotone through through- h- h out Stitched folds fulds and that decorate the skirt him hem h m mho tho em em- broidered buttons the silk braid ane and ami tho thio upon the Jacket Jack Jack- et aro alO all of them tinted to a shade shado The shouldered broad lint lino is carried t I A h hi i 1 I t m r kl out In the coal coat coal by hy the lime t i projecting pro IHU tv- tv well beyond the sleeve slee scum scam cam and the time fullness s of ur the tho sl sleeve o c Itself answers well In this aim The Thc cuff Is I- slashed in the front an and simply e edged with braid and pleating The Thc corselet is of the thc folded henrietta well stayed with bones bons at the side an and back I ui 11 the Plainer Style lle For the gown that Hutt must do service all day clay and tn every eVely IY day it he be hard h l i a more inure satisfactory Jr than shat Illustrated Made In a u smart shade of grey tha imam gray shows rather more e than u 1 trace o of blue in its make up up make t bias band bald and anti of oC th the Samo mno silky maI ma ma- I and a few feu- blue bale buttons an art nil all that thai go o to tu Its it The Tte little lIale coat coal Is of nf the simplest t order sunie somewhat after an au sj n. n The Thc I requisite n width aj the er Is js addI add- add I j ed to b by the shawl hawl revels re that hat aru alu I 1 lined with a princess princess' haircloth waterproof wa and the tho sr cv o. o is somewhat novel in iii these c day days of 1 rC reason nf ut its n f dHa folds of oC the thc goods oud art aru aru n af er a tt braid fashion tend and are un p oh Hod I a f strapped trail cd and folded td Id a it Ille r 4 he lie skirt is nv s one olle of nC tI those h ose C full t cuts with witha sa a bias bia- seam scant the center f insuring i l smooth nit lit r the tho hips Th rh length I Is that lint declared fur for the new lIew spring models anda and a I elsa velsa facing protects I the edge from front rubbing Straps and andI I self covered buttons constitute Its M sole bole le |
