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Show Whj Not Raise Some Beautiful Roses I his Summer ? -Here's How qy r.L.rKirforO im! Perhaps the most ad-mired ad-mired and the oldest of cultivated blossoms : : If you will take the trouble to care for several bushes you can add much to the attractiveness of your home during the com-' com-' ing warm season One fine rose which has been found admirable admir-able for this landscape planting is the Ilugosa or Wrinkled Japanese rose. It Is hardy in the North, succeeds well in the South, and thrives within reach of ocean spray. It blooms nearly all summer. Both red and white varieties are available. The Carolina rose, also suitable for lawn use,, thrives in the entire territory east of the Mississippi river, succeeding suc-ceeding especially well in frozen when received they should be placed where they will thaw gradually gradu-ally and should not be unpacked until there is no question that the frost is out More plants are killed by undue exposure ex-posure of roots at planting time than from any other cause. No matter how short the distance to the permanent planting location, plants should be taken there with the roots thoroughly covered. The roots may be placed in a bucket of water while removing to the planting ground and until planting, plant-ing, or they may be puddled in a mixture mix-ture of thin clay and then kept covered cov-ered with wet burlap or other protection. protec-tion. Care should be taken that the clay does not become dry before 4 THE rose has probably been cultivated culti-vated as long as any ornamental plant, and it holds a warmer place In the hearts of the people than any other flower. From earliest times it has been a favorite. It has figured in the literature of all ages and all nations. People in all stations of life yield homage to Its beauty of form and color and to Its delicious fragrance. It is loved by poor and rich alike. It is grown in the door-yards door-yards of the least pretentious cottage, where often the occupants are stinted In food and raiment, as well as on the grounds of large estates, where abound the choicest things that money can buy. ' It Is also grown In immense quantities under glass and is the most popular winter cut flower for all occasions. occa-sions. So deep a hold has It on the be avoided. Most of the roses suggested sug-gested for border planting are improved im-proved by having the whole top cut off every five or six years. All pruning prun-ing of these roses should be done in the spring, as summer or fall pruning would remove the hips prematurely and thus rob the plants of much of their attractiveness during the winter. Border and lawn roses are hardy and need protection only under extremely ex-tremely trying conditions. In the arid plains region, if the autumn has been exceptionally dry. it mav De nd" visable the first winter to provide a good mulching after the soil has been thoroughly soaked. Covering will be unnecessary. Roses for the Arbor and Trellis. The character of the foliage and hardiness should be Important considerations consid-erations in choosing types of climbing roses for covering arbors, trellises, pergolas, pillars and similar structures. struc-tures. Hoses used In this way are usually in conspicuous places and flowers flow-ers can be depended on for ornamental ornamen-tal effects for a relatively short period only during the year. Climbing roses with a poor leaf development or those especially liable to attack by insects and diseases, therefore, make but a poor appearance. The climbing roses are divided roughly into two divisions. The pillar roses are those not growing more than 6 or 8 feet high. Th more vigorously growing roses of the group are the climbers or ramblers. Of the trellis and arbor roses the members of the Wichuralana or Memorial Me-morial group are among those most resistant to disease and Insect attack. They have foliage pleasing to the eye throughout practically all seasons. The blossoms are white and single. The Multiflora climbers flower In clusters. Many of them, however, especially es-pecially the so-called ramblers, are subject to mildew and insect attacks. They are reasonably hardy in the North. Roses of the Laevigata group, represented by the Cherokee, on the other hand, require a warm climate. This is true also of the roses of the climbing Noisette group represented by the Marechal Nlel and Lamarque. These roses are suitable for culture only In the warmer sections where the winter temperature seldom falls below 10 degrees F. above zero. Climbing roses require large quantities quanti-ties of plant food. The body of good soil available should be equal to a mass 3 feet square and 80 Inches deep. A hole of this volume should be dug and filled with good garden soil mixed with well-rotted manure. Climbers, like all other roses, require good drainage. No roses will thrive where water stands about their roots. Plant Climbing Roses After Pruning. affections of the people that it Is often of-ten spoken of as the "queen of flowers." flow-ers." Wild roses abound In great variety over practically all the temperate regions re-gions of the earth. Man has taken advantage of this and has appropriated appropri-ated the most pleasing wild forms for his use. In addition, he has so modified modi-fied and improved the wild sorts by breeding and selection that now there Is a rose for every need. Lawn and Border Roses. Selection and breeding have been practiced with this best loved of all flowers for ages, and have resulted In the development of a multitude of rose varieties, some of which are adapted to use under almost any conceivable con-ceivable conditions. By familiarizing himself before the planting seasons in fall and spring with the different types of roses and the purposes for which they are especially suited, the rose gardener in city or country may add greatly to the attractiveness of his home. Roses for use on lawns and along borders must have habits of growth and foliage which fit them particularly particu-larly for mass effects. Foliage, in fact, is more to be desired under such conditions con-ditions than fine flowers, since it is a feature during the whole growing season, sea-son, while the flowers may cover a period pe-riod less than a fortnight In length. When suitable sorts are chosen, roses are quite as appropriate and effective For Cut Flowers Nothing Can Rival the Beauty of the Rose. planting. It is important to set the plants a little deeper than they were before. If planted too deep,' however, the bark of the buried stems would be Injured and growth would be checked until new roots form nearer the surface. sur-face. In planting dormant bushes it Is desirable de-sirable to trim the ends of broken roots and any that are too long just before they are put Into the hole, so that there will be smooth, fresh surfaces sur-faces which can callus and heal over. It Is usual to have this fresh-cut surface sur-face on the under side of the root. The hole in which the bush is to be planted should be several Inches larger across than the roots will extend ex-tend and ample In depth, with a little loose earth on the bottom. The roots should be separated well In all directions direc-tions with the soil well worked In among them, separating them into layers, each of which should be spread out like the fingers of the hand. When the hole is partially full, the plant should be shaken up and down so as to make sure It is in close contact with the soil under the crown where the roots branch. When the roots are well covered the soil should be firmed. This is best done by tramping. If the soil Is In proper condition tramping cannot Injure the plants. This will leave a depression about them, but all the roots will be covered. When all are planted, each one may be watered, although this usually is not necessary, especially if the roots have been puddled before planting. If water Is applied, permit it to soak in about the roots and then fill the hole with dry earth. Do not tramp after watering. With the soil wet it would be Injurious to compact It more. If not watered the depression should be filled with loose earth the same as though it had been watered. After planting no watering should be done Cross-Section of Well-Prepared Rose Bed. "- "" "" moist places. Both these varieties are relatively tall, reaching a height of from 6 to 8 feet. The Rosa lucida, a wild type native from Pennsylvania north, Is, on the other hand, desirable for a low ground cover 2 to 3 feet high. It grows well at the seaside and under other adverse ad-verse conditions. The Prairie rose has a wider range than any of the other roses named above, being native from Canada to Florida and west to AVis-consin, AVis-consin, Nebraska and Texas. It is a single variety and thrives under adverse ad-verse conditions. Among the other roses which may be particularly useful use-ful for landscape planting are the Arkansas Ar-kansas rose, Sweet Brier, Rosa eglan-teria eglan-teria or Rosa lutea, Dwarf Polyantha, Cabbage rose, and the Damask rose. The roses classed In the lawn and border group are adapted to a wide range of soil conditions and may be counted on to succeed in any but extremely ex-tremely heavy or very sandy soils. Many of them will do well even on such soil types. The principal essentials essen-tials are thorough drainage and a plentiful plen-tiful supply of organic matter, with a reasonably constant water supply during dur-ing the growing season. In general a soil capable of growing good garden or field crops Is suitable for roses. The deeper the soil and the better the preparation at the beginning, the more satisfactory will be the results. The best fertilizer for roses is rotted cow manure, though, any other well-rotted well-rotted manure or good compost will serve fhe purpose. Fresh manure, especially es-pecially horse manure, should be avoided, though If no other manure Is available It may be used with extreme care. It must not come In direct contact con-tact with the roots when planting nor should any quantity of It be used Immediately Im-mediately beneath the plant to cut off direct connection with the subsoil and the water supply. Of the commercial Roses Pruned for Individual Bloom. fertilizers, ground bone Is excellent as additional food. It will not, however, answer as a substitute for an abundant abun-dant supply of compost. Cottonseed meal, where it is cheap enough, may be used as a substitute for bone. Wood ashes are sometimes a helpful addition addi-tion or, when they are not available, lime and muriate of potash may be nsed and should be applied separately. separate-ly. Rose growers having only sandy soils should make more frequent applications ap-plications of manure than those dealing deal-ing with the heavier soils, since the organic matter burns out more rapidly rapid-ly in a soil rich In sand. The chief consideration in the planting plant-ing plan for roses for landscape effects ef-fects is that the plants should be so spaced that when they reach maturity they will come together without overcrowding. over-crowding. The habits of growth of the particular varieties chosen will be the determining factor. The spacing should in general range from 2 to 6 feet. Early spring planting is best In the extreme northern part of the United States and on the western plains where there are strong drying winds In winter. In other regions fall planting is advantageous but not sufficiently suf-ficiently so to warrant postponing planting from spring until autumn. When possible, however, It is well enough to push planting in the fall rather than to wait until spring. Spring planting should be done as soon as the ground is dry enough to work, or when it springs apart after being squeezed in the hand. Fall planting is best done as soon as the leaves have fallen from trees and bushes. Planting methods for border and lawn roses apply also to practically all other roses. Stock should be planted as soon as possible after It arrives. When It is impossible to plant Immediately, Im-mediately, the plants should be placed in a trench and the roots covered. If the plant roots are dry when received, soaking them In water an hour or more before this heeling-in is done Is desirable. If the stems are shriveled, plumpness may be restored and growth Insured by burying the whole pliint fo a few days. If the plants are Tot tep Pnp Ri 'iiulmr ing should be done carefully as In the case of roses for landscape purposes. This method has already been described. de-scribed. Special pruning methods must be employed for climbing roses. These methods are determined by more or less of a compromise between the desire, de-sire, on the one hand, to force the growth of blossom-bearing, new wood, by removing old wood, and, on the other hand, the desire to keep arbors and similar structures at least partially partial-ly covered. One-half of the wood should be pruned from all the climbers, climb-ers, as from the other types of roses, at planting time. In the case of the established plants the Wichuralana and hardy climbing roses should be pruned just after blooming. At this time young shoots will have started from the roots. The growth of these shoots should be encouraged, as it is from them that most of the branches are produced that bear the following year's bloom. The best way Is to remove re-move all the old wood at this time, so that all the strength will go into the young shoots. Where the roses are trained over a trellis so high that one season's growth will not cover It, the method just described is not practicable. practi-cable. In such cases some of the old shoots should be cut off at the ground, and the others should he shortened from 3 to 0 feet, depending on the amount of growth the vine has been making each year. New shoots should be trained to take the place of those removed. It should be kept constantly constant-ly In mind that the present year's growth bears next year's flowering branches and that a few vigorous branches are' more desirable than many weak ones. Roses of the hybrid Noisette group, of which the Marechal Nlel Is a representative, rep-resentative, should be trained to a grd strong cane, with the side shoots cut back to about three eyes. Tho main cane can be renewed occasionally. occasion-ally. The Cherokee rose should be treated treat-ed like the border roses, pruning only dying or crossing branches. Kvery few years It may be cut back vei;ly and allowed to start ocaln. I C: .o . 5 i H I " I jPoint of union Proper depth for planting: (a) proper prop-er soil level for grafted or budded rose: (b) soil level if the plant were on its own roots. for use in relief planting about the ground line of buildings or In masses upon the lawn or along borders as other ornamental shrubs. For such use, however, they must be hardy and moderately free in growth, and must possess foliage reasonably disease dis-ease resistant and free from insect at-uicl:. Proper and Improper depths of planting roses. The line Indicates surface sur-face of soil. unless very dry weather follows, and even then care must be exercised not to overdo it till after growth starts. In watering, it Is desirable to draw away some earth from about the bush, apply the water, and after It has soaked in draw dry earth about the plant again. The purposes for which roses are planted largely will determine the pruning methods to be employed. At the time of planting border and lawn roses one-half to two-thirds of the wood should be removed. At later prunlngs weak branches should be taken off, and Iwg canes that would be liable to whip around and loosen the plant should be cut back. As far as practicable, pruning other than this should be accomplished by cutting out whole branches rather than by cutting off the ends. After the first year, pruning should consist of removing dead, dying, or weak wood, and crossing cross-ing branches, Including any that may be found with discolored pith. Cutting Cut-ting off the nd of brunches should |