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Show SHOP TALK BY AMY ARMSTRONG I H PERSON won't have to go to any extra exertion at all to see through this week's shop talk right from the very start, which should be an Inducement to reading it considering the present position of the mercury in the thermometer. It Is to deal mostly in glassware, the occasion oc-casion being the opening of a new department of this line of goods in one of the local stores and also conditions con-ditions in the production. A few other subjects may get a look-in, although al-though no mirrors are included in the topic of the day. Several carloads of exquisitely beautiful glassware have been deposited de-posited at the doors of this shop and I the displays on the third floor of the - establishment is one to make a woman wom-an trot right home and acrif1 ntally on purpose break up all thu may have on hand so that she have an excuse to buy some of these pretty new articles. Like everything else, and the facts are facts, not just idle comment, all kinds of glassware are advancing in price. One wholesale firm has reached the point where it advises its customers that it can take no more orders at the present time i and that the ones already in will be i filled as soon as possible, with not so much as a "by your leave" as to the definite time of delivery. Likewise Like-wise the situation is such that many of the less reliable -firms are substituting substi-tuting lime for lead in the making of glass, producing a much less desirable de-sirable product. It is well for the j housewife who intends any glass pur chasing to familiarize herself with some of these conditions so that she may buy wisely. j Speaking of this substitution, a lit- tie knowledge may serve to help a i woman in the selection of reliable t , ware,, although, of course, in many ! cases it takes an expert to detect the j difference. The man in charge of the new stock of goods was showing me how the regular lead glass can be bent almost as if it were rubber. Not so much, to be sure, but so that the give is decidedly perceptible. Quite apparently there is an advantage in this for a chance drop or a slight knock does not break a glass or a dish of this kind nearly so easily as where the resistance is without any relief at all. Styles, too, in glassware are chang- Iing just as much as in wearing apparel ap-parel although not quite so rapidly perhaps. Household articles of this branch are not renewed frequently and the change is of necessity much more gradual. Just now the heavy cut glass is not the popular choice of the hour. No doubt it will be good u,nd much to be desired for many years to come but there is a newer line on the market which is the last word of the moment. These lines are in etched patterns, very delicate and not much on each piece. Most of the glass or dish is i.ain, with a border or dainty pattern etched around the top. The nevr department before men- ij tioned has as its chief feature open sets of glassware. It means a great deal to a woman to know that when she purchases a water set, a wine set or a dozen dishes of a certain pattern, pat-tern, she can, in case of accident and the breaking of ono or moro of the articles, replace said article or articles ar-ticles without breaking her set. If a housewife has a dozen or half dozen glasses of a certain pattern and one Is 'broken, the rest are not nearly so nice to have in the china closet or on the buffet. But if she has purchased pur-chased an open stock, all she has to do is to go to the store where she bought the glassware and get herself her-self another tumbler (this word for the sake of variety although I believe it is obsolete and not much in vogue since the day of our grandmothers.) I saw three different patterns in the etched glassware which are very pretty. One was a wee tiny flower pattern, a French design -which is ever so popular. It is copied, I believe be-lieve they told me from an old English Eng-lish design. It seems that people sort of cling to certain designs "which they have seen, so this one has been renewed re-newed with just sufficient variety to make it interesting to women of today. to-day. Then there is a chrysanthemum pattern, attractive beyond all hope of description in mere words. There are water sets, all kinds of wine, whiskey or liquor sets, dishes, pitchers just everything one could possibly want. An ice tea set is worthy of special mention. It is the oddest and cleverest clever-est shape, standing on a round base and having a handle so that ono does not have to touch the glass in lifting it. Take a look at it if you want to see something which is new and which you can be suro every one else will not have if you place it upon your table for guests. The bird pattern pat-tern is a conventional design. Prospective Pros-pective brides should revel in these pretty things and if you havo gifts to make for weddings or for anniversaries anniver-saries you will not have to rack your brain at all for a little of this glassware glass-ware will be most welcome to any woman Avho enjoys getting presents for her home. All glassware has gone up about 20 per cent, cut glass about GO per cent. In view of this perhaps, there is a cut glass now on the market which is quite good looking, yet not so expensive ex-pensive as the "real thing." A leaf is pressed into the glass, then there is a little cutting done about it and on it, making a pattern which looks considerably like an all cut. The effect ef-fect is good and answers many purposes pur-poses as well as the regulation cut glass. Once one gets a line on a few facts, there is all the difference in the world in various glass articles. For instance potash gives glass a beautiful lustre and if you compare a cut glass dish in its make-up and one without cut, and ynu will never be satisfied with the latter. Among the odd pieces in this new stock of glassware is a baby glass, with the upper edge curved in. This may be a disadvantage from the point of view of Master or Miss Baby, but is a blessing to the fond parents. It is practically impossible for the child to spill the contents of this glass, be it delicious fresh milk which is intended intend-ed for a healthful dinner or a dose of caster oil in the interests of preventive preven-tive or reconstructive measures. Another An-other is a butter chest made for keeping keep-ing butter in the ice box free from taint. The dish is quite largo and has a lid which fits well down over the sides so that no odors or other influences influ-ences which work destruction to fresh butter can get in. There are some marmalade jars1 with covers in pretty shapes and something new in a salad dressing bottle which is a great convenience. con-venience. It has markings done by the etching wheel, and is intended for the preparation of the dressing right u the bottle. There is a line marked vinegar, showing how much of that to pour in; then above it one marked oil, for thG quantity of that. The seasonings sea-sonings are to be put in and the whole shaken, with a resultant dressing dress-ing which should be delicious, judging by the pretty etched directions on the bottle. Perhaps we ought not entirely to neglect the buyers who are in the east because although gone, wo cannot can-not forget them. They are now holding hold-ing the destiny of our fall wearing apparel in the hollow of their hands, and needs must when our curiosity commands, wo cannot keep our thoughts entirely off the wonder of what they are deciding upon. Paris is sending over a number of models worked out in satin, so they tell us, satin being a material which is regaining re-gaining its old place of favorite among the designers of women's clothes. This is significant to those who watch for the trend of things feminine, for eatin being a soft material does not lend itself to outstanding draperies. H The conclusion is that our new. frocks M will havo fullness, for wo are not yet M getting away from that, but they will M not have extensio .. M Taffeta seems to havo given way M to satin for day use, but holds its M own pretty largely still for evening M wear. Women who are really smart M dressers are buying morning frocks fl of dark blue and stone gray char- H meuse. They are made simply and M with little trimming and are in mark- M ed contrast to the befrilled and be- M trimmed dresses of the last spring M and summer." They have small bod- M ices," says one authority, "usually H fastened down the front with satin M covered buttons, sometimes in the M color of the gown, sometimes in con- M trasting shades. The long, slightly M loose sleeves are finished with turn- M over cuffs of white organdy, often M built up from three or four layers. M There is a handkerchief collar of M white organdy arranged in the Col- M onial fashion, which brings it high H across the back of the neck and broad H across the slope of the shoulders. To H help the amateur, it might be well to H say that these collars may be cut H like handkerchiefs, the hem pressed H and not stitched, and adjusted to any H blouse or coat in the Martha Wash- H ington style, the points pinned to the H bust. Some are using cameo brooches H to finish off these points, and again H one sees a small bouquet of pink H moss rosebuds or a rippling Spanish H cascade of colored ribbons." H Extra large pleated pockets are M placed over each hip and the wide, H flaring tops faced, as a rule, with H white satin, are seen on some of the H fall gowns. And a flaring red, ac- M cording to one prediction is not at all H to be considered noisy in some of the H street costumes, red and blue com- H binations, with the 'buttonholes faced H THE ABOVE IS THE LA TEST POSE OF WILLIAM FOX'S FAMOUS STAR, H THEDA BARA, WHO AS "CIGARETTE" IN THE LATEST FOX PRODUC- TION "UNDER TWO FLAGS" WILL BE THE OFFERING FOR A WEEK STARTING SUNDA Y AT 2 O'CLOCK A T THE LIBERTY THEA TRE, B MISS CLAIRE ROCHESTER,! HE SOPRANO-BARITONE, WHO WILL i tftf 77tf ADDED ATTRACTION OF THE FIRST VAUDEVILLE BILL M I A T THE ORPHEUM THE A TRE. H with red being among the best. With H, a large red rose caught to the brim H of a black sailor hat and a smaller H one fastened to the coat lapel, the H effect is stunning. Some afternoon H frocks that are made of deep red satin H known as Bordeaux with buttons and H buttonholes of dark blue silk are be- H ing shown to the buyers. There is a touch of the old Chinese colorings in many of the frocks being shown for immediate wear and this may grow more marked as the season sea-son advances. The French designers are using a bit of Chinese embroidery in lieu of a solid color where color is required. A bit of brocade at the waistline, a bow of it on the hat, a hem of it on the skirt, ia strongly commended by the highest authorities. |