Show recognize matron in latest mo modes es the world horld war of 1014 U Is re for tho the present trend of the mode toward feminine grace and comparative para tive maturity lest this sound nil overly dogmatic says a correspondent in the new york Il herald ernId tribune wp we hasten to explain that it Is purely a theory but it la is on an exceedingly cee tenable enable bused based on close observation tile llie premise Is patent enough A cursory clance at models worn wora at the alltz in paris la is colv convincing inching evidence tint that laming flaming youth la Is no longer the motivating force of fashion not alint there are uny tiny traces of decrepit ago age on the he frocks but the lie atmosphere of flap lias has been replaced by a graceful dignity that la Is infinitely easier on the eyes obviously there must bo be a reason for tile the retreat of y youth auth and we append our solution the great youth auth myth mth of the present decade was unquestionably founded on the liberating influence of the equally great war costumes manners and morals were till all subjected to radical revision by tile the debs and of 1017 1917 and tho the older genera generation was powerless to steni stem the title tide the reason was easily evident here was a group of girls ranging in years front about eighteen to twenty who because of the dearth of men were suddenly thrown into more responsible positions than their vi victorian mothers lind had ever dreamed of some borne were liberty loan speakers some were yeo velmen luen actual in emBerg embers of the navy some worked corked tirelessly at canteens and many stopped stepped ably into the niche left vacant by b the fighting min man overnight almost they aliey became a power in the land and they proceeded forthwith to make their influence felt when questions were asked the luxurious locks and the heavill encompassing corset that had flourished through the years were tile the first to feel the arrogant arr land hand of the new youth and they were followed by many other costume innovations not always of proven taste when nia mil lurer aurer minds remonstrated thy the younger r generation serenely heedless would ask what war were you sou in and even san juan hill and dewey were insufficient answers to the contemporaries of lideh pershing and haig llala irresistibly the war youth s wept swept bu and eventually maturity capitulated and borrowed the manners and cos oi of their flappers flap pery juniors since tile the spring of 1024 1924 there has been jeen manifested a counter current to these tides of youth at each subsequent polls opening the tendency has hag gathered greater momentum today fashion lins hils required red ft a graceful dig atmosphere despite its occa bizarre flare hacks backs and it Is 18 our nir opinion that the war girls lime have taken hold of the situation again and ire are responsible for the feminine dig anity of present fashions not its as young oung ns as they once were vere these originators of the cult chilt of youth with anil and on the continent they have sven ipen eleven slun mers pass since tile the 0 6 0 0 F showing popular mode that afta tures straight Stra leht lines first blare of the gulls the once pelt demoiselles demoi selles senes of eighteen to dve are now mature attire in tit of twenty nine to thirty six find and at r generation of youngsters lias hils taken their place doubtless they were quiescent and ami enough tit nt fir it and even to to any 11 little for the rising young idea although they still clung citing to the F simple costume which lins has been their birthright gradually they wore were prec elving eliat hew S same 1 costumes S see ineil ed in fur r more it r L attractive an in their younger sisters other oilier generations lind had lern tn content tent binler the to retire from the picture hut tint not 0 so o the war girls who were mese young tera that were ivere thrill eliut vr tir that it what war hinl hall ver var foght ir in at it was the same hat vy rv tit ali t lidid i their print prim aas 0 ur u delade ago ak and nd it pre again against modern youth the couture unable to rid itself of tile the myth of jeunesse was reluctant nt at first to change clining e its base tut but the wit war generation wits inexorable and the designers commenced gradt gradually lally to succumb tile the flare the jabot the godot godet and hosts of other feminizing femin izing details have till nil entered the lists R ats of fashion j and the spirit of the moment Is graceful and comparatively mature femininity shrinks th rinks if you concur with this postulate to the gentle warriors of the last decade whether or not you agree with the reasons the result Is the youth as tile the sine quit qua non of fashion has hag passed velvet in fashion picture against tile the picturesque background ac g oun of the famous race nice courses the fash tons long launched latin chod in parts paris each summer have nn an not to be equaled by similar showings allowing anywhere else in tile the world nil and while tile the costumes worn V A I 1 Z K model displaying flare which start at hip line by mannequins fl aiom alij the leading couture establishments are often n bit too exaggerated byng tint nd extreme for g gen n oral acceptance nevertheless the or igan of n R style that acil leves success bucce s frequently may be traced back to its initial appearance appeal ance at Cliant llly or Aut Aute eull till I 1 this year the elite chic french woman lias has finally departed front from her usual custom of nd adhering hering to black white me or lier her favorite magale combinations of these tones and has elected to appear in the soft pale tints that have hao such allure and distinction delgo beige tones ore are much in vogue and there Is evidenced a liking for shades of cobalt blue green rose amber and the wide range of violine sl shades indes these are chosen for both printed frocks and for the semi sports models fashioned of light crepe the importance of the large hat was definitely established by the numbers which glitch appeared at tile the races many were of crin in lovely light colors but from a fashion point of view lev the most noteworthy hats were large capelin lines of velvet in shades of fuchsia da dahlia lilla amaranth amur anth bols de rose and cyclamen with the wide ade brims and small crown crons proclaiming their recent origin soft crowned velvet hats considerable interest Is manifested in the ibe early opening of milliners who apparently tire making a concerted ted effort to introduce 1110 models dels which alch will all at least equal the vogue of the small felt and velours hats in practically every col collection lection there are many models fashioned entirely of velvet with soft pliable crowns tire of medium with t it a slight upward tilt at the sides and back and are in flattering natt ering rather brilliant shades Ein elaborate borate brocades brocaded bro cades find and velvets velvety of liti unparalleled paralleled richness are also shown tit at the paris exposition and because of unusual beauty it is bredt predicted ted that they will have an important be bearing upon the fashion trend of tile the autumn season wolret also displays a feeling for wraps modeled on the lines of capes and lins designed sIgned a reversible cepe which Is black velvet on in one side and apricot on th the 0 other hands of white fox complete its aspect of luxury the necessity for rn an evening wrap somewhat more substantial than tile the gossamer affairs of chiffon R and n d georgette crepe that often tir ore e nn 1111 integral a part of the evening costume lina has brought about the introduction of a new version of the shawl Fash fashioned lone d of chiffon W velvet ivet and bordered with a wide blind band of lur fur or of metal brocade broadi outlined with a deep border of velvet it Is on an elongated square in shape and inny be draped into lines and folds i laptad to each individual wearer for evening wear chiffon velvet lp in pale orchid shades hader la IS used by several of the most important CoUtur couturiers couturie fers rs who also employ this fabric in 11 shade of brilliant green for dinner ind and evening gowns |