Show hints on how to make M ake own dresses the pathway of tile the home dressmaker tins lias been strown strewn with roses ever since the lie jay day that flint the chepil so frock took its place in tile the sacred circles of tile the mode and its partial eclipse this season observes A B fashion writer in tho the new york herald tribune tins occasioned many reproaches and dubious glance on the part of this thriftily inclined lady the mantle of tho the chemise however tins haa fortu cotely fullen fallen on tile the athletic shoulders of the lie jumper frock whose co construction n st la is almost as simple and the nimble fingered lady can settle down to at least smother another season of complacency the first maxim of the fro french home dressmaker la Is tills always eliminate unnecessary trimming think first of your line study your figure look at yourself in a long glass if possible one with wings so BO flint you can examine your outline from every viewpoint if you tire are slim and straight tile the world of fashion Is tit at your feet you have only to run up tit a little juniper and put n R group of knife plaits phalta on either tilde side of your straight glit crepe do chine skirt to match and carls could do little moro more for you milking making plumpness a virtue it if till au unkind fate lias has endowed you with a little more than the necess necessary nry plumpness your problem Is more cult tin and calls for more selective discretion it la Is a truism that the large woman must avoid horizontal stripes land trimmings yet how unfortunately often sho she chooses them if you are what the french call roun delette remember always to put somo some little touch into your dress that flint rives gives length it may be a narrow panel down the center front for instance you can choose a printed cotton volle voile in n struggling straggling flower pattern making it up so that the long linet run from neck to hem hein A printed volle voile model recently seen Is 18 particularly adapted to ill alio average embonpoint embon point figure ns as its flower design runs rung up tip till and iowa down giving it a perpendicular striped effect the narrow plain panel in front with its row of buttons and line pin tucks on either side also gives length it Is the same color its as the ground of the lie material and Is edged with a tiny frill of the color of the design both colors edge the short straight sleeves though both buck back and front are ench each cut in one piece tile the effect of a separate skirt and bodice Is I 1 given by merely adding a gathered flounce tit at it a longish waistline in front lie bo sure to arrange the fullness cf 0 the flounce more in front than on the hills for though the latter arrangement Is charming for the lie slender demoiselle tier her more plump sister must avoid emphasizing the hip line the back of tills dress Is made straight glit tind in one piece you xou will be quite in the lie swing it if you give a method of trimming plain materials with Tw oColor border a two piece effect in front and show a straight unbroken line tit at the back so BO wany dresses dresye 3 in paris carry tills this deceptive appearance tills season ingenious trimming effects if your flower design Is printed on a beige or pink ground you wilt will make your center panel about three inches wide of beige or pink ink cut on the straight of the material it Is best to draw a thread each side to be sine to get it perfectly even all the way down you may trim it with three fine hand band hewn pin tucks running all the way down on both sides and ns as it further decoration put a line of small buttons vint matching chIng tile the design of the lowers flowers in color down the center adge the panel on ench tilde elde with till a tiny frill or piping tile the same shade alindo as the buttons then your our dress will have till all the trimming it requires put in small smaill straight sleeves about live five inches long and edge then them with till u H two color bond band halt half un tin inch in tile the color of the ground anti half tin nn inch lu in the shade of the buttons dont go in for puffs leave them for the slim girl sa ass they widen the silhouette you enn can mid add a six inch wide of the printed mater material lill with a picot edge or finely bordered with a bins bills bond baud if you like but it Is not necessary as am tile belt less dress shows to greater advantage on the stout figure the insertion of gobets the nimble lingered fingered lady who to la able to essny essay something it n little more com can call insert godetz to give a little variety to tier her summer bummer skirts these should be curved tit at the lie hern hem and generally fill fall a little below tile the wr A dress of pink crepe de chine Is piped with deep rose straight line of the skirt itself you can either have a godet inlet on each side or one in front as well in the latter case it Is 19 better to make the front godet higher and put in tile side ones on n lower level no article on home dressmaking can ean be complete tills this season without reference to tile tho jumper frock which plays such till an important part in every wom tins ans wardrobe there ire are long jumpers that are almost and tin these you may embroider with a large motif or a complicated monogram or they might be adorned with a scarf collar its ita ends enda faced with a contrasting color to match the accompanying skirt you may make tile sleeves long or short inset bunds bands of a contrasting contrast lne material and trim the client of tile the skirt in the same sallie way the short jumper that flint reaches the lips hips la Is tin an even more useful model but it ought not he be made to wear with tiny any old skirt the juniper jumper of today tins lias its own skirt to match and ant Is worn with n no other it forms it petite robe complete the only dl diversion verlon you u may permit yourself Is a check find and a striped juniper jumper in perhaps blue and white to wear with the same blue plaited skirt shirt but the blue of the skirt must bo of the lie same material and exactly the same tones no as the stripe or cheek check of the two jumpers inasmuch its as it Is better to have the stripes run horizontally tills particular model should be limited to the slender type there are infinite ways of introducing variety into the short jumper and the greatest of these Is 19 the collar the most practical and usual Is tile tho straight coat collar with small turnback rovers the high collar with a roll roli over top Is 14 worn in silk and crepe tie de clione as well as in and jersey it often tins has it silt alit in the cor sag of the jumper tit at tile the hack back mid and a Atri striking king finish Is a looped cravat hanging down a little lower than ill iho silt alit if you wish to be very industrious you ean can embroider the loop but to he be consistent you should then embroider two motifs of the same design in the front of the jumper just above the hem the searf scarf collar may be put on straight in the front so that it looks looka like A soft high collar and the ends may be tied in a knot between thoi shoulders behind or in a loose bow ot at the bach of the neck A plaited cravat gives chic to the plain jumper with tin nn ordinary colt cent collar for tho tha over slender miss AR am for the girl who really Is a little too thin she door does exist pen in these days of favrow lines fluffy frills and flounces fire are their heir salvation her fler corsage can be made with the lines of the material going round the figure and site should always be careful to put in A few gathers on tile the shoulder seam in front nothing Is better for any figure and tile lip very thin girl cannot do without them she should blouse tier lier dress slightly and pouch it over a sash flint can be tied in it a puffy how ut tile the side iler her skirt maybe made with the lines of the design going up and down but it should he with five or six little frills cut on straight glit lines and finished with a 11 piece of picot edge gathered all round with most of the lie fullness concentrated fon cent ruled on nn the hips short puff 6 sleeves tire are stuart smart this fills year and would ile he charm ing with till it 11 little frock of tills this type they can bp be made with sili small till handke chief ties knotted or tied tit in a bow on oa the outer ams |