Show the pans gowns paris comes word that the new gowns tor the ele gantes who have fled to the mediterranean which compares to our florida are cally all mad alth the fullness ot the sleeve pushed quite up to the top of the arm the lower part Is very often it Is trw gathered or gauged or made essentially full but all this folding Is in to the shape of the arm so asa to outline II 11 and in many cases the fullness left loose at the top is practically a deep epaulet and no more skirts are also male to sit closely to the figure at the top and flow in full folds below the knee the length all round being as nearly the same as the necessity for walking allows that Is to say in the front the skirt Is made to he as much on the ground as it can do without trip ping up its owner constantly and then the and back are alii e three or tour inches on the ground such skirts are unsuited tor the prom enade for which cloths are provided many of these have short jackets or boleros over deep silk belts and in no case are the sleeps exaggerated in any fashion but generally are sim pie coat sleeves frenchwomen who dress well do so corn mon sense in such matters nothing can be too fussy tor the smart cos tume but the simple everyday frock Is a practical affair before all white lace and R abon new laceal sf rimmed with pale green satin ribbon the ends of which pass through silk rings to match and are in little ears the full sleeves and deep cuffs are trimmed to correspond the latter finished at the wrists with lace ruffles the 1 jp girdle Is of satin matching me ribbon colors to be popular velvet will be worn late and all chades of mauve and violet will be especially popular for the late spring and slimmer white will be the thing just as white satin reigned su preme this winter modified redin gotes will be worn this spring but so many cheap ones have already been seen that their popularity has rather waned made by a good tailor and on simple lines over a plain skirt and by a atoman who hold herself well they are extremely good looking the louis XVI and XV coats are holding their own and are econome cal and in good taste always and for hotels and moving about from place to place either here or abroad a couple of these jaci ets would be just the thing say a light low necked one of flowered silk to wear with light skirts and a black one of silk or satin with lace jabot and light waistcoat pansy Is a modish color pansy color will be popular this spring it Is a color that Is neither a purple nor a lavender but which suggests the full blown pansy in its softest richest tones one can get a great deal of wear out of a pansy cloth gown as it can be trimmed with one of many colors and frequently changed green white black corn color and violet all go well with pansy color there Is a perfect fad for trimming a gown in such a way that the trim ming can be taken off and other trim put on A pansy colored gown can be trimmed with new green this makes a very dressy suit with its gorgeous green vest while the hat has its shaded green pluite later in the season the green can be removed and white satin can be applied in its place now there comes the or the white lawn shirt waist or the shirt waist of white or fany delicate washable material russian blouse su t for little boy the illustration shows a suit of brown holland opening shirt fashion in front with a jap and three but tons white lip en buster brown collar and red tie with a red enamel ed leather belt heli in place by straps of the ma A fcc afi terdal sewed to fit ft the seams give the 3 eary color touch W to the neutral tint ot the holland the full sleeves are held in place aj tie wrist by back ward turning tucks the bloomers extend a short distance below the burt of the blouse this suit would be very serviceable made of dark blue or brown cheviot for hat ornamental at on in hat materials hair braid woven usually without regard to any pattern but fine and narrow leads for dressy hats the glace effect is the most fashionable the hair braid comes in all colors soma of these braids show as many as five tints in the mother of pearl others show but two one beautiful effect Is produced in silvery green or pale green changing to silver in different lights spring styles in suits the street suits which are being turned out from the pans workrooms are handsome but it can truthfully be said even after a study of their best points that they are no better than thoe of they are not as neat as the english tailor made suits nor as elegant as the american tail ored garment true they are chic but that is a quality which is fast acquired here one of the prettiest of the spring as the coat and skirt style this Is immensely popular and what is bet ler grows more ind bore so it is vry convenient to purchase a little coat and skirt and more than conven to wear the suit with a pretty shirtwaist underneath for spring said a modiste I 1 look forward to the coat and skirt idea almost exclusively tn e there Is a great deal of talk about the old fashioned basque and the bodice but I 1 1001 foi a rena assance of the two piece suit the coat and the skirl and I 1 am sure that it will be twice as popular as ever ff wa j 1 ii i 14 kitchen towels hou d be washed out every day after tl e dinner things are washed and bo led it least once a week coocen spoons should be used al gayb when making sauces and beat ing cakes if metal spoons are used they become ground down at the po nt and also wear out the saucepan an egg whisk made of wire e in a wooden handle is a necessity in every 1 itchen it is required tor deal ing soup beating whites of eggs or cream and to nake chocolate froth directly a saucepan is empty and taken from the fire fill it with cold water when time allows add a piece of soda and bo 1 out the vessel sauce pans treated this are easy to wash and always in good order when wanted peacock eyes the iris in the superb tall feathers of the peacock is the model tor a beautiful design in spring materials peacock eyes so called are led upon the lustrous surface of a changeable silk where green anaf blue are interchangeably woven peacock eyes with high metallic luster are achieved by using the changeable bluish green either on lace or velvet these are truly superb th pail lettes are ud on a bodice in yoke and on girdle and occasional ly on the cuffs of the sleeves the fashionable gauntlet cuff affords aban dant opportunity for applying these spangles the girdle la a feature of new spring gowns wedding cake one cup of butter 2 of sugar 3 of flour 4 eggs 1 pound of raisins 1 pound of currants pound cl citron 1 teaspoon of cloves cinnamon nut meg and 2 teaspoons of baking pow der well mixed with the dry flour flavor with lemon the fruit should be chopped fine and well mixed with flour the cake will seem very stiff but it Is all right bake in slow oven boudoir confidences rice cloth in pale colors Is a pret ty and inexpensive fabric tor home frocks something new are the deep collar and cuff sets striped horizontally with pale blue or pink chiffon voile comes in pale checks and Is very like the real voile only much less expensive A new black veil is sprinkled with white dots and bordered with three rows of valenciennes among silk ginghams are dark shaded effects that will make up al most like a soft shaded silk ch afon washable good chiffon can be washed again and again and used until literally worn dut looking as good as new each time use tepid suds made with a pure white soap and add a teaspoon of alcohol to each quart of suds rub gently between the hands applying the soap directly to very soiled places I 1 when clean squeeze in the hand in s ead of w ring ng as wringing or bard rubb ng is auble to separate the threads of the tal rin in tenta water with alcohol as before squeeze aa n this time in a clean pull gently into shape and iron while wet letting the iron which n be very clean and smooth go right on the chiffon with no inter alb st ff collars with lor su ts embroidered linen collars stiff ir annish straight linen collars their character utterly belied by the grace ful little designs with which they are embroidered are worn with tailor suits and finish in a soft silk tie they aake a pretty change too to the stocks ou ve worn all winter short evening coat the above coat is white broad cloth with lining of heavy white silk the shaped oke of unique de sign is of russian lace the rounded scallops outlined with a biased fold 0 cloth and white braid similar treatment Is ghen the deep cuff an sleeve two pretty effects very fetching is a gray plaid cos tume seen in one shop it is made with a three flounced skirt edged with plain gray cloth the blouse bodice is full with seams only under the arms it Is trimmed with a round sailor collar andi of lace the short sleeves are made of two ruffles corresponding to the skirt et act another smart frock is earned out in very lightweight velvet tucks and pointed bands of stitched cloth trim the skirt the short coat has lapels of stitched cloth a tiny vest and a wide upper portion to the sleeves the cuffs are finished with stitched cloth pretty kimonos there Is nothing prettier nor more girlish in the way of dressing bacques than a short kimono especially when its japanese character 1 brought out by the material of which it is made it a plain color Is used let it be of some soft pale shade with the bands that border it of a contrasting color there Is time and work to spare a design of scattered blossoms cm brol dered in natural colors makes up charmingly and makee tt still more japanese drapery silks well cov ered with chrysanthemums or cherry blossoms are the next best substitute and are both wide and inexpensive although a number of cotton stuffs which will bear repeated washings are much less expensive and almost as effective ADVANCE SP RING STYLES the gown at the left is of wood brown satin finished cloth the sides of the bolero are slightly gathered to the fronts and back which form a sort of stole crossed in front and or lamented namen ted with tour buttons the shawl collar is of alle green velvet ornamented with buttons of ery and false buttonholes of cord and with of brown tat feta the Is of lac eoina dented with pendants pr of the of a green kid sleeves slee vess are aln 1st ed with turnover cuffs of the green velvet ornamented with the buttons and buttonholes and edged with b own lehet below these cuffs are faffa and frills of lace like the chemi the skirt is made with two 1 ox plaits in the middle of the I 1 front forming a narrow anu is ornamented at the bottom with stitching the other gown is of ol 01 ive cloth trimmed with braid of the same shade the habit bodice Is plaited at the shoulders gathered in front where it crosses over a waist coat of apple green cloth fastened with two rows of enamel buttons the refers are of white silk with green and the is of plaited white linon with cravat of lace the sleeves are full at the top I 1 where they are plaited into the armholes then are draped below and finished with braid trimmed cuffs of the material and little puffs of I 1 non the skirt Is plaited over the hips and has groups of fine at the bot torn it Is elaborately trimmed with the braid |