Show TRAVEL IN NORWAY correspondent PRAISES hospitality OF CITIZENS see little of the M sun houses very like the log huts of our own west americans always in favor special correspondence when we see some places for the first time we find them less than we expected with norway it Is quite the other thing it lias aas more rocks more waterfalls more hospitality and more weather than I 1 anticipated the dull and chilly days along the coast toward north cape which by the way we never saw at all and on the voyage south brou frou fro u it was ilium mated by the sun of royalty but we had only one glimpse of the midnight sun king oscar of sweden and norway broke upon our sight at nomso he stood on the bridge of his yacht a grave white king giving the salute of a naval officer in that gray haired man stood all that napoleon s con quests mean today to day of earthly glory the descendant of that marshal ber der cadotte who grasped and held what his chief who gave it lost himself a crown the midnight sun appeared for us but once this is how it behaves it goes down to the edga edge of the horizon of the sea just like any everyday sun there it stays a bit and swings along at the verge as it if playing a slow game of bowls then climbs in a reluctant sort ol 01 way up into the sky again there was a lady on our ship who had taken this trip in 1890 and told us that she left hammerfest Hammer fest going north a dull cowering commonplace little town and when she reached it on turning south it was a roaring mass of flames the inhabitants fleeing for their lives and their shrill screams coming to the ears at 0 those on the ship the cai cal tain sent 0 to o ask what he could do to help and they cried to him to hurry on and send end them food and clothes aiom the near n ear et elt port A W jt the reindeer were weed u disappointment to me they looked small and III fed I 1 thought when a number of them were rounded up with their accod lanying lapps for us to see I 1 had expected them to compare more favor ably with their owners than they did and why they walked indian file round and round a heap of stones stone upon which two or three among them took turns in standing still I 1 am not student enough to determine all I 1 could imagine was that they might have inherited the evolution from an who used to swing around the circle at the pole after we wo left the ship at bergen the real fun of the trip began we saw scenery from that time on but we a saw the people too their cheek bones are set higher than is common with us and they often seem to have their eyes narrowed half shut as it if from ages of looking at bright sun and waves but I 1 liked them from the first I 1 liked their hard red color and their bellow ellow hair and the friendly li him the lad always a small boy makes encourage ng sounds with his mouth to the horse between the shafts the stocky little beast with hig his mane cropped tc a stiff erect brush dashes away over the perfect road and the panorama ol 01 snow cov ered heights and tumbling cascades bits of green grass at their feet thick with all the flowers of the whole summer massed together begins tor for the day there Is no time for a procession of blooms here the little white in enocents of our ap il 11 are growing side by side with the golden rod ot of our f tall all and the dandelions daisies pansies buttercups yarrow clover and a score besides are all there too hurrying into fliger before the quid cold comes now and then the boy cries parr and the horse stops short it has a sound as if made by a per son shivering with cold all north ern nations appear to use it in bus rus sia it is just the same as here 39 0 laplanders with reindeer the houses scattered up on those heights and wastes of norway are very like the th log huts of our own west the same shape the same size the builders stuff moss between the logs and the roofs look different d I 1 from those of the kindred dwellings at home for a layer ot of birch bark has been spread upon the boards and over that another of turf cut into squares and fitted close together upon this grows grass in which flow era ers are thickly blooming so that the tops of all the houses appear like pieces of the fields lifted into the air out from the doors beneath these roots roofs the little children ran to look at us both parents were always in the hay fields piling the scanty crop carefully upon racks that looked like short fences built up in the center of the space the wisps they laid across the rails were very email small and every particle of the dried grass ras S was wa a gleaned the oung girls were all up in the rough huts put up tor for them to 11 ilie in high la in the mountains while in the summer they tend the cattle which are driven up there to feed where the grass cannot be otherwise gathered here these red cheeked girls stay making butter and cheese spinning and keeping an eye on the cows pigs and goats among the melting snow patches and the flowers and grass close to them it seemed quite a fashion for a girl to be at tended by a clean white pet pig 1 I saw several such chaperones of lonely young figures but never a dog A beauty born of murmuring sound shall pass into her face wordsworth believed well it if run ning water can give this grace to woman here Is the place tor for it to do so days went in which the air was vocal with cascades and foaming tor rents from dawn till it should have been dark according to all frecon calved ideas of night hours it never was dark at all as a matter of tact fact once in a while we saw at the sta eions a man who knew a little eng lish and his face always lighted up when he found we were americans we seem very popular there the english buy the people s logs that we saw clogging the streams or rather that part of the rivers on the lower al 1 0 4 M 4 laplanders and hut ness ot of their glance at the strangers as they passed their faces looked looked as it if their hearts opened outward like the windows of their houses and though there was no lack ot of courtesy anywhere in the width of norway there was no servility ot of manner that never belongs lo 10 peasants who own their bit ot of lani ian I 1 as these have always done with the exception of the train from bergen to voss and a steamer up the magnificent fiord flord where the mountains the nar mar row winding wa which ages ago fought its path through them into the heart of the land we drove across norway in the queer little gig ot of the country it is on the principle ot of the ban som sorn somewhat the driver sitting behind though not above so that his rp ns are forever sawing at bour our arms as they pass between coir air compan ion and yd ya itself on the seat before slopes to which they were confined tor for there Is a nery ery clever arrange ment of barriers chained lines ot of logs which pen the drive into its quarters at each side of the middle channel eaf of the stream in england band Is their marl et ait america Is the home of the r sons and the heart goes out m where here tl e children are when any of the emigrants come back they always seem to have money tingling jingling in every coclet pod et a young woman told me in when I 1 ed her abo t the matter of their success but few ever come bad at all she sadly a aided |