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Show THE SUNDAY STANDARD; OGDEN 1TAH, Sl'NDAY. AIT. VST 25, 1907. of wearing collar ta turndo Wrt popular with the fokhioa The tlii ' American woman should carry off tha at the honor, millinery English Ascot, tlisi being quite a. important aa event in tlie ryes of most women aa the winning of tha Derby by an American bred home. Mrs. John Jacob As lor wore tho etrurtum which caused a general leveling of the glasses in tha rural stand. It is described as having been as wide a. a tea tray, with a toppling rrowa of blue beruae tail which coat 1x0 a bench. For novelty it outdid tho hata with real flowers that certain ultra smart women worn at tho Grand Prim, la Pari and even lime. Nard lea's hat with white plumes a yard long. lira. Astor to a real beauty, avea without a vast bank account, and so could stand tha strain of her surprising bat. Her millinery triumph may have consoled tier some a hat fur her deplorable disappointment qf having to avoid many fashionable entertainments because of a cold. Never before, It lb said, warn preparations ef mtlHarry and coetutnee toe Ascot so lavish as they worn this year, aa lire. Astnr'a victory to the ,,ummer So If you ses with brocade to Iwudolr don't be woman'" a I, Sllvad 1X0 opening It for perusal. for rtTui to aU probability ba one of tha in thla form. fyiriwl cases Put P deceptive book cover, are fitter koep them. lobe a took , w- -j uo Jiwhe and m'lde, and covered on the eut.id. with of perfumed cotton, over which Sfw linen la stretched. Strap, of aewad acroaa tha cover, of TiTbook about three indies from tha end. rDi and through theae Book, of clipped. jin collar, are muck evidence in in are very kind thk I"- work booth, at a number of unlike aamaier rharity haaaara. and. one girl of the 'acred trash." as on despertfully dubbed the article, -- U (hey are easily tUapoMd of. Now Sher timely hint. The nut brown No longer la aril l. out of fashion. the cheek of tan of tha athletic girl Indeed, tha easy voted fashionable. are going wayi of our grandmothers strenuous uking tha place of formercomfort of Tha leisure and vporta. ahe automobile aeem to influence the summer girt of 107 toward inactivity, doesn't ride as much as aha need o ' gha to or play tennis or golf. Nu, tha geu-(lto .one at of present croquet gams Th. two f society', pet amusement chic afternoon frock. Illustrated are charming model, for the croquet party costume They are elaborate without la the legat being ruaay. A Word to tha Wise. Tha nark of a waist to often extremely uncomfortable, not because qf a bad cut, but because of the manner In which the band has been applied. Two precautions are necessary first, to sea that the bark to not too tight; next, to sea that tha front to not too loose. If you see on another woman n blouse with n crosswise plait up nt the Mck, you may know that tha band la toe tight frpm shoulder to shoulder, think that luay home dressmaker, this defect arises from the neck being too high, and they trim it down n little. ThU, instead of curing tha trouble, rslher accentuate. It. Th. ruto to simple: la applying a at1.fcu.s. hold tha band toward you from shoulder to nhouldur in tha back and tha waist toward you from shoulder to shoulder in th. front A Mt of stretching in tha back and an Imperceptible pulling of tha front causa no trouble, . while the rev ansa has been known to .poll a gown. AN ATTRACTIVE CREATION IN LINEN AND LACE. alto and Girdles. Methods of holding the back of tha while at th. front the belt narrows to narrowing to the width of a small belt in bread girdle shapes are many, tha width of a small buckle, harmonisbuckle in front. Girdles plain behind, and to ttuas devices a majority of tho ing with the elide. Folded girdles are but wide in front, with a handsome belts awe their originality. In n largo of soft leather deep around, Mt with Jeweiod buckle, am also among the new number of the new models these narsteel point, along the top and finished belts. One flnda crush belts of soft row slide, art of metal, plain or set In front by long steel buckles. Bom. leather, the chief attract toil being In to of th. new leather girdles am scalloped the novel design of the bprkle; white . with Uttls Jewels and long enough .'hold the soft girdles to Its full width, around the edges and with large raised leather belts, bearing designs in soft are set close together at bottom and dote moderately deep In the back are shadings, hand finished with buckles spreading fan fashion toward the top, held them by lung enameled elides, but repeating tha color of the decoration L m - mom significant. A Clover Transformation. Pretty women everywhere am taking up the Hills finishings of dress. An old w hits lace Jacket was ruthlessly slaughtered to make something pretty for sure mar wear ovar a blue plaid silk gingham gown. The Jacket was dipped In a very pale yellow dye to make It auliqu. It was thaw out off to bolero length, and the lower edge was plaited to bring It la to the figure. The lower dge of each plait was finished with a rhou of riblna and lace. This neat little white lace coat made a pretty fla-I- . . sh for the gingham drees and could be worn with any si'fc chock. For Beauty's Bake. It haa always been a hotly debated subject w hether makeup to ' Justified and whether women may without scruple of conscience enhance their natural charms, or, mom Important still, hid the sad fact that lhay am fading, by making uae of the little aria which am the beauty doctors stack in' trade. H enema a laudable ambition to reader oneself as comely aa possible in the eyes of one's neighbors, yet the woman who to bravo enough not to add to her owa Irene when they are Manly faaia herself on n higher moral plana ' than the wearer of the most becoming of Mtnuiformatiuna. We am allowed te do almost anything for the sake of health; the workman escapes criticism who dyes his hair In order to earn money, but wo am taught from our cradles upward that any trlbuia to baauty to pure vanity, and wa pay It in secret, hiding the (act from our husbands and our very drums! friends. The greatest art of makeup to not to ho found out, and the true woman may be brought to confess the aecretn of her heart, but never tho secrete of her dressing room. When wa reach such a candid .tato of civilisation thal glass eyes and pores1st. . fillings pm vonsldamd immoral than and nut till then tha .woman whs makes up should feel ashamed. - Bilk ' ' ' THE SMARTEST THING and many another attractive model la leather. An to the Vail. The very coarse dotted veil is with ua again. It to fastened loosely over tha hat, falling to below the chin. Tha long, loose kind tgjtb border of scalloped ribbon is very fashionable, aa am those with heavy embroidery about IN CAPE WRAPS. tha hem and la the bark fiurh veils as the latter am of point d'aaprit or heavy tulle and coat anything from M up. Hut they possess good wearing qualities and am wall worth the money. A Distinctive Nets, On of the distinctive features of lale summer to lie frllllnga Waists am frilled dawn the front; cuff am frilled around tha hand; frlHe extend around the neck In the shape of niching and them am skirts that am all frill, it tall, lu owa story of patience and much laundering,- this frilled condition of the summer woman's wardrobe, A Millinery Triumph. It wad written la tha atom and tripe so a Yankee. girl said, that aa MMMMMMMHMdMMMMMMMMMWfWMMMMMMMWMMIMMMMIMMWMMMMiBMMBMIMMHM Autumn In the Paris Early Aug. Advance will ll.-P- aris' bs deserted. Bo long PARIS, society waited , for tho - balmy weather that would make tolerable their damp and chilly chateaux in the provinces that, despairing ef better days. It has packed As belongings and nt last betaken itself to the country. Do not think that I sneer at the chateau because I come of Uiat nationality to which these, ap- of aristocracy am impossible. Far be It from me to shelter the Illusions of my countrywomen In regard to those romantic abodes unless fully prepared to substantiate my atatsment The French chateau is even 'mote uncomfortable than the English rwstle, and, goodness known, that Is dark and damp enough. Tha EnglMi have one redeeming feature- toy keep good Area. The French do A and their grant atone towers and katf wings that are aa massive aa a modem fortification have the further advantage of bring badly ventilated hy meuts of tiny windows set deep In th. non. wall, at wide intervals. In to. da ya when I was given to the reading of Duma. I used to wonder why toe members of tho nobility were all to anxious to escape from their homes In tho country and faro to to Paris, when. If they attained the Kt of their dream they wer n stuffy little bock room in the Were, Versailles or the Tuilerles. w I know, I spent a week with tto marquise why never mind the name to her ancient seat in Brittany, and a uncomfortable week I never put to My very teeth chatter at the recol-ction. Belonging to a people that toy. no traditions, naturally I was to accept the Invitation, aa I tod much of the place and people and by madame had been baited ih many charming water dolor totohes of the scenery and alluring JJtoa f her people. The reason for existence of tho light wrap that wa Americans don more for ornament than hie hi summer was then explained I me. I think my hostess had a doxen toe, from elegant affairs of light rto",ung heavily embroidered and toidsd to soft and furs in dainty nkh ghe Incased herself when we nt out to view the sea. Well Gowned Frenchwoman. A madams well In the fore ef keeps toton in the various tailored gowns ijtofe ehe then wore were many of the faU fashions, for she to f the elect few to whom the tsrtferee unveil the mysteries of Inner holy of holies and give the thereof. One innovation of JJto made mental note was . tha hJ? I Me wore no short sleeves at .."chateau unless with full dress, and purtenances an-rit- ed od .MODES E OF-TH- Mia Unen departments for Jtotoard and table are satin damasks, T"4 In the Wallachtan embroidery. , decided Innovation Ic the congress toner, it has elastic, aide and cornea cloth top of any color to match , which it ta worn and Ir ,0n with - - Fashion World; Notes of Various Changes In the Mode a In my own abbreviated sleeves I felt the new short Jacket, and, while It may decidedly undressed, not to say chilly be very rich and very expensive, there Th sleeve were nut only long, but is no question of Its being unbecommuch longer than wa have had them ing. for' some time, falling quit to tha Within Light of the Capital. knuckle They were in ona or two When I returned to town I found thal conspicuous instances In two sections, deciding th upper one puffed and falling over most of the fashionables were tha elbow, the lower part compara- to make the best of Ihe w- .ther in were and the departing tor provinces tively tight fitting and trimmed with Strapped bands. For designs I should the country nr rise retiring to tho Judge that the dressmakers intend to suburbs, where so many of ths exclugo far back, one bring an almost fac- sive are acquiring brmlcnuntry resisimile Copy of tha sleeve In a por- dences Naturally thla means a pro trait of Haris Touchet which looks as if vs were going beck to ihe period of Catherine die' Medici for our fashion. Another sleeve was so strongly of the Marie Btuurt type that there seemed to bo ample grounds fur tlieae suspicions. The Queen Marie sleeve waa a really elegant affair, wide at the top, narOn the rowing toward the wrist. shoulder was a most novsl' device In the shape of a square puff, with much The simple cuff piping to set It off.. was corded and - fastened - with 'five 'small button. As to the possibilities pf this period for yielding picturesque effects, fat be it from me to ptse aa an authority. It waa a period rich in pretty women, and where one hears i much of pretty women it Is safe to deride that there were pretty and becoming costumes. Marguerite of Navarre, Catherine and Marie dri Medici, Touchet, La Belle Gabrielis, Diana of Poitiers, Queen Marie Stuart and women of their Ilk were nut likely to tolerate anything that did not enhance their loveliness. Has Come to Stay. Th loose coat seems to have come to stay whether we like It or not. My fair hostess of the chateau, who represents tho vanguard when anything fashions is mentioned, that told me that she Jtsd. the most posi' longing of th summer social season, and fur that w a ho am unable to get away from the dly are thunkful. Garden part lea are becoming popular as a form of entertHlning. although Frenchwomen are too particular In regard to their complexions ever to sacrifice them aa Inconsiderately ua do thn English. Versailles BL Germain and Fontainebleau are the favorite luculinna for the suburban villa. Him Maurice Bernhardt, the charming daughter-Inlaof Mine. Rush Bernhardt, Is located at Versailles, and It is on ef w the prettiest sights in ths world to see the divine Harsh strolling through th gardens with her tea young granddaughters, Me. Simone, aged eighteen, and Mila. Lyrians, aged eleven. Him Harsh is moat devoted grandmother, appearing at the villa twice a week with tier anna full of flowers fur ths ladies. Mila. Hintons is wid to have a groat taste for painting and to give promise of, future greatness in that line. Hlie has all her grandmother's taste in dress, and, simple qa are her frocks, they are notable fol ths chic la tive assurances of this fact from the that supplies her with wraps. There are' to be some modifications in tho shapes, to be sure. The shoulders will be- - narrower and the sleeves set higher, so that ths woman "who Is not well proportioned and graceful may expect to look like a very caricature of a .human bring The coats of thn fall and winter will not all be of the kimono order, however, long, plain, tight fitting affairs having their place in th schemes of those houses which make a specialty of the tailor made fashions. Cutaway coats recalling tha direct oi re styles wilt be worn by those who lore something a touch mors elaborate and do not care for tho long wrap. Waistcoats of superb brocaded or embroidered fabrics will be added ta thii. and a great deal of braid or embroidery In the matter of trimming. N seams on tho hips is one of the rules la regard to the cutting out of firm MOMENT. with patent leather vamps. Along tha Instep three buttons of the color at the cloth ar placed for a finish. Buttons and lace boots with patent leather vamp and colored suede tops to match gowns are another feature. . Bordered materials are now plentiful GOWNS WORN AT LONGCHAKFS. In the shop fiheer stuffs, chiffons and foulards lend themsdvea well to this. In the finer fabrics the printing is called painting. Graduated polks dots form clever and distinctly design. One of the new veils is of pbiin black net edged ail around the lower part with narrow, fine black silk fringe. Ferocious looking bull pupa in brin . : dled plush have Joined the ranks of the Teddy bear puns-I- n -- bools, monkey etc. The nine sweaters and caps that fit th doll or Teddy fit the newcomer A pretty sash Is at China ribbon trimmed with tiny fringe in the colors matching the ribbon. New fleece napped blankets fur summer use are very light in weight and yet have the look and feel of pure wooL They come In double bed else with blue or pink borddra A clip to hold papers on the library table or desk ta made of two flat metal piece on the top one a small black bull balances himself like a seesaw. For summer dratieries the daintiest possible curtains now com at the Swtaa that rliaraclerls the cos- - f In London where laehinnabl women of their ever youthful grand-mer- e. have almnat extlngulHhed thefnaehrea At a recent function Mila. Hiunder hata artiasingly out of proportion nt one looked immensely taking in otta to their wearers' sixes and heights, la of thuso clinging gowns of plain pink New YotV city th enormous hint has satin with a cluster of flowers on ths not been seen to a great extent. For a bodies which young girls era wearing wonder our women have been content so tnurb Ihta season. to uw a droopy, brand effect at ths I am tuliT that stripes will ba with back. Tha style In Vogue In England ua well inli) the winter, if not entirely has heavy flowers and Mowing plutnan through Ihe season. Wa have suffered to weigh the hat down, and th burdaa so much from the unadvised us of of this man of atuff gives a peculiar this forts of docnral Ion that many of gait ta the wearer. Her chin la raised, ua hoped that this style of dress maand her step heightens the general Imterial was passing. It seems that thla Is pression that she ta dragging wearily not to be. fur many of th new cloths tha burden ef many frivolities. are showing lines not unlike those that bass appeared upon th season's voiles and tussore and tha ruehmara tweeds. QUAINT FARAIOLS ARE BUMMER JOYB. Thin women Invariably find this alyls so unattractive 'that it seems that U Truly the pries Insures a desirable would be almost humans fnr tbs fashaxclusivansH for tho now Japanese ion leaders to banish It Indefinitely. parasols In pongee and rajah silk that Fortunately the decorative character of ars bring Imported. These have th many of the new trimmings and ths quaint, flat shape at the oriental paper dictum that they am to be used gensunshades and corns in thres colors, erously may do much to modify the white, old Ivory and blue Tha wooden lengthening effects ef stripe on th handles ar hand carved and tho mom frames of the fleshleea. At present handsome specimens ar embroidered smart walking gownn of this erder are lavishly. A beafttlful parasol of this vamads of tweed, black and white, black riety eras carried by a fair shopper. It and brawn and gray and black bring waa of blue; embroidered with a floral tha favored combinations. dsrign In xthlt. Th handle was carved to reprearnt th head of a JapaFinally and Mast Important. nese, wearing a cap of silver, studded As to the small t cetera of dress. It with turquoise. To match ths new paraIs Intereating to not that largo chesols ar oddly shaped purse. In ths nille ipnt; ornament th most modish same materials and embroidered in simveils. Tha average woman haa much ilar design Theae are oblong and fasdifficulty with her veil. Hhe wlU tell tened with a gilt clasp. Flaps, attached you that it la tho most trying ntalter to the embroidered ride extend above ' la th world to find a stylo that 1s be- ths clasp, and to them are attached ths handles, long; flat bands of ti mata-rta- l. coming. Home nata disfigure ths features, and others play all sorts at tricks with the complexion- - Unison you are very, very aura ef your own charms HER BEAUTIFUL COVERS COST do not risk a white veil. Tho closed . LITTLE. mesh black veil will add yean to your woman to spend a ' a for Is It easy apparent ags. Red veils should b se- great deal of money la a year far taco lected with the utmost cars, sines they and trimmings of real tact, as It are becoming only to the dashing bru- sown, that a certain woman In nette. while emerald green onea are ta naturalshould have a reputation for possible only for the golden blond. Newport In lacs Una. BeBlue and vloW may bo safely worn great extravaganceas ths laca gswna many sides possessing only by a particularly perfect and aa other women, she has a great ascolorless typo, although some few other sortment of table cloths end other covtypes find them passable if th com- ers with beautiful laces on them, and plexion"! of a delicate quality. she divulged tbs The price of hatpins may be expected te an Intimate friend secret. When one of her lace gowns to go up, aa the larger the pin the more can be worn no longer ehe takes It to a chic Is ths hat. In buying gold or sli- certain shop where lace and embroidver pins this means a great increase eries are mad. Workwomen take out CATHERINE TALBOT. in coat. all the pieces that are not worn and Introduce them in fin scarfs or rovers HUGE HATH EVEN BFOIL ONE'S of linen. Sometime the pieces art put GAIT. together to form whatever shape th Wrinkles, unsightly double chins and owner desires. When the task ta finbent backs are not tho worst calamities ished, she has pieces that have cost remodeling that befall tbs woman who wears a comparatively little for ths hundreds at cartwheel hat. Even th wearer's walk and which would have cost is affected, and the gait la termed the dollars had shs bought them at regular , mushroom hat walk. Thla walk ta seen prices. and grace turns " muslin variety with Chine flowers In any color charmingly blurred In charmThe border ruffle ingly artistic effect shows a slightly closer design than tha body of the curtain. A very odd and attractlva paper weight Is a bronae lizard, with its tall curled around In a ring. Pretty cottage bedroom curtains can ba made out ef Brussels net with rose and green foliage from cretonne on them. Among novelties are charming belts of soft suede in shades of tan and brown. They are straight round and fasten with buckles and soft finished gold, harmonising beautifully with the bait |