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Show $ SUNDAY STANDARD: OGDEN, CTAII, SUNDAY, JUNE to tha aim ef every girt thin um-a- xr u number a panamatheouting IT hat among real her headgear, thing from Colombia, tooting possibly 1M or 15t if the purae airing will ataad the alraln er, barring thia. a panama of lou aristocratic parentage. But, after all. ta make Util difference la tha beauty of a freah young fate whether tha hat that crown It la mad of fiber a thicker than a couple of haraehali and warm under water from crown out or if It la of Yrapa atraw or even the coarser imitation from Jamaica. Tha affect la tha main thing. - hat can be roiled Into any T ahapa, hut the madiah anglr haa then brim rolled eharply in front with ncarf of green and uhita striped Bilk wrapped about the crow a and tied In long loop In the back with two fringed end failing on the heir. When the pane me Is need aa a riding hat a at iff bend ta college color la of lea affected as the only trimming, lfany women, too, paat their youth And the panama n aervice hat for country wear, and when it la not givrn a raklab angle there la nothing to cavil at on the It la draped acorn of girlishness." with a Roman or pompadour erorf tied tn a loom bow at the aide. The first lady la the land w ear a panama when shopping or taking her morning walks Ulus- -t abroad. The lingerie frock rated at fascinating examples la this type of costume, which thl season in even more popular than ever. Oriental Styles. In Pari the centum of the moment I essentially oriental in cut. the wide kimono eloeve mad all In one with the bodice, an well a the short waist and plain skirt, tending t produce n curious effect when seen in large number. AU tlio new color carry out th same idea, the blue and greens being thorn which have become ae familiar In the cam of Japanese embroideries, while the whtdo gamut of aew browns, which shade from the palest biscuit to marrou, an specially effective whoa produced in onft Japanese silks aa well as tussore and liberty satin. Natural colored tussore silk la undoubtedly the material which la enjoying the largest measure of popularity at the present moment. the manufacturers being scarcely able to caie with the many demands, and simple gowns of this description the bodice and sleeve outlined with Jaiwuese embroidery In three or four shades of blue as well a touches of black and gold represent some of the of the season. smartest creation Blripod tussore is likewise greatly In demand, and tussore colored cloth or liberty satin trimmed with touche of lapia laaull bluo taffeta or empire given form the basis of charming model. At the Capital. Black allka of the old tlmo ribbed variety la having a vogue la Washington, mado Into tailored costumes, and they look well on some women. Mrs. to Witt Talmage, tall and slender, wear heavy grosgraln silk with a rodipgota which Ms Ilka her glove. Mrs. Talmage clings to black, though her distinguished clerical husband haa GOWN FOR THE been dead soma flv year. Mi looks her beat tn somber hue, and ah dues not keep to strictly mourning fabric. Mlaa Rebecca Collier, her only child, la a handsome blond who ltkoa startling effect In rods and blues. The mother nd daughter make a charming foil In look as In costume, and they are GARDEN DAINTY PARTY. among the chummy ones who make ueb a pleasant part of fashionable lif. Mr. Root and her daughter, Mins Edith, are always seen together and are not wide apart In drese. Long chiffon or gauie scarfs have by no means disappeared from the modi-ti- e horison, and with garden prty I frock the favorK accompaniment will ha wide scarf adorned with petals, leave or floral spray In taffeta mous-ttlln- e, which are cut out and applique to the game or chiffon. Another pretty dealgn 1 that of a wide acarf of patterned mauseellne do note, the dealgn of which ta outlined with fine gold EFFECT IN BBOIDERIE thread, while an attractive plan would tie that of finishing n white gaune scarf for evening wear wjth applications of white lace, the design being picked out with crystal and opalescent bugle. Bummer women clad in snowy white at to be mourned among the good things that are gone. With the passing . ANGLAISE. rasn of white gloves, white shoe seem to be put on the list prescribed. Kaahlonable shoe dealers say that only very In' different people ar buying white shoes. Those who do ao ar brave and proclaim that they ear not If they show the modes of summers ago, but they must be brave Indeed to wear the shoes outside their owa home. Pale gray in the shoe I the very thing or lemon colored kid or golden brown suede. Young girl are weuring the yellows and more advanced matrons shoes which at made to match their latest are gowns. Many smart women partial to patent leather lew cuts, with fawn culoied spats. A Useful Expedient. To trim a lingerie drew that has become warn there can be some bands of Insertion laid flat upon the skirt. A clever French seamstress la trimming a pale blue lingerie dress in that manner. The gown haa done duty during the early spring and must be remodeled. A wide hand of lace is being laid around the foot, a few Inches abet e the hem. Above thia there la a slightly narrower sue. Th same trimming ie being extended around the waist, Just above the belt. The gown in completely altered by thia treatment, which ia certainly a pretty one. ' By the Sad Sea." The freak bathing suite of painful have lost their prestige, and nowadays the beet dressed women wear th quietest and moat Inconspicuous bathing costume. While color ia undoubtedly attractive In the water, that color la now furnished in trimmings rather than in garish whole suits of red. yellow, blue, lavender, pink or the broad atripes one ao popular. Sometimes th color touch la glvea by ruffe, belt and collar, more often by piping, stitching or braiding. ' Block and dark blue ar distinctly th first choice for a bathing suit, th former itrongly in tha laud a far as silk la concerned; In fact, the black suit, unrelieved even by a touch of color, to In great favor. On of tha smartest seen this season was of heavy black taffeta cut with a widely flaring skirt, with a few aide plait and a full blouse with a slightly square neck braided with narrow block soutache braid on neck, sleeves and belt. A tiny piping of light blue to outline tli neck was th only bit o( color to be been. Th Empire Belt. The empire belt deserve a high plat a In feminine esteem, for It to one of the moot becoming feature of the summer. In its prettiest form it to made of band of pastel colored velvet, each band no wider than an inch.. The approved method to to have three of these band of velvet, each terminating with a pretty little burkle. The three band are buckled high In the back, while in the front the strapping oFYelvet conn together at the waist line. A pretty ornament finishes the front. Coats Far Girls. New coats for girl are made with cape that fall quite closely over th boulder, rippling In fold below. Thil I the nearest approach to the Japanese fashion that to becoming to them. On or two models have been shown that gave a abort kimono aleev with an unUeralcevs of silk or some thinner material. The fashion I not appropriate for children In It present form; sleeved coaiq they cannot wear elbow and the nndersleeve 1 bunchy. The Well Dressed Woman In Paris; Newest Frills and Furbelows Prescribed by La Mode ARIS, Fta Pari June 1 To shop In la the ambition of th well deemed woman th world ovr, and of tlw American mondalne It to Mid that Instead of th old fashioned notion of seeking rent cures for tired natur at fashionable sanitarium aha new come to the gay capital at thia seas an and buys frocks and furbelows for the tats summer social campaign at Newport, on tha principle, doubtless, that a change of work to rest The met outside of tho houses occupied by the great artists In dress have a charm even to thorn who may never hope to don creation designed by one of the noted Parisian modistes, while to th fortunate beings who ran pen trot a Into the beautiful rooms dedicated to Mine, la Mode the Interior present n dream of rest and exquisite apparel. Tha Great Felix. Boms of them house are really palatial, the great Felix for example. He 1a quite a noted and hUtortc personage. Hto bourn haa been connected with royal and beautiful women for years, and It was the superstition of his client, Emprees Eugenie, who persuaded the elder Felix t change the number of hla house in the Faubourg Bt. Honors from II to IS. Th salons In this establishment are perfectly stunning. The large windows ar draped with costly lace hangings, th walla cevered with gobelin tapestries and tha long gallery panel with dainty paintings by Jan Van Beers. Tha patrons of the Malaon Felix are for the most part French society women, although he has an enormous clientele This composed of smart Russian. clever and artistic Frenchman to ns lover of extremes In sartorial matters, and he frankly dislikes the tailor made and alpha for the old days when the life of the fair Parlslenne we a whirl of amusement end her frock were correspondingly numerous. Th Hesse of Werth. Then there I the house of Worth, which for the pant century ha been the authority for all that ta perfect in the world of frocks and furbelow. Seven Rue de la Palx is the mystic number of this atelier. The firm Is presided over by two brother. M. Jean, who looks after the artistic part of the concern, and M. Gaston. who represent th business side. They uphold In every way the tradition or their father. In whose administration the house gamed Us reputation for the beauty and artistic qualities of Its gowms. The alder Worth influenced silk weaver to produce hto design in their fabric, and he revived modern lacemaking and created many lovely frocks for exhibition. Not n stone's throw from thefamou i TASTEFUL TRIMMINGS Waiat buckles and clasps of enamel place of the once all prevailing gold and silver ones. The belts ara being mode of kid instead of leather. 811k rings are being very largely used aa trimming. They are made from strips of silk gathered on to thick si rands of rounded braid and stltclird welt to lbs gown, leaving only enough are fast taking the Worth establishment to Paquln's. distinguished by Its flower decked balconies. Hare noted actresses of almost every nationality under the sun, with M. Paquln's help, consider their frocks, and there to little doubt that the stag now leads fashion. To get the proper prospective, nr It were, M. Paquln had constructed A ' miniature theater, and hers ore jnoy see at various times Rejane, Bum, Ellen Terry, Langtry and a host of ether watching the effect of tha dresses aa the manikins parade the stag before them. Each great house haa Its owa especial admirers among well dressed women, and tha distinguishing features of each are so apparent that a connoisseur tn matters mod 1st Ic. may. easily note tha frock that has emanated, from either Paquln, Felix, Worth nr BouceL top and bottom with cluny. Wide bands of the Mm trimming fonned bretellea over the shoulders reaching to th waist Hu buck and front, tha fullness between th lines being laid In tiny hand run tucks. A pink muslin slip was to be worn when tlw girlish wearer vantage of such a mood to tell you about a really summerlik gown. What of the frock so decreed. was the use of baring you with a deA Thing of Summer. scription of a garden party dress when A return of unahlne revive one's for weeks wa have been watching the optimism, and I am going to taka ad clouds roll by, th rain and hall pour An Englishman' Opinisn. Mr. Calthorp, the English artist and a recent article expressed the opinion that women da not know how to dress. This severe artist say that men can dress women with much greater art. and when one visits the salon of one of the couturiers I have been talking about one I apt to agree with him, Mr. Calthorp also very pertinently remarked that "if men t:mn do e much In beautifying the dress of feminine attir v hy do they not reform the abominable thing that passes for men's dress T Whenever I lecture on Greek dress,' supplement Mr. Calthorp, "I never lei n opportunity go by to repeat that If Pericles returned to this world and saw me hold forth in tha evening null of n modern lecturer he would be seised with horror nd forthwith prefer going back to critic, In hade." "Tub Gown Artist - But, to speak 'of lesser lights In the d res si risking Armament, I went the other day to the rooms of a "little dressmaker" who has quite a reputation for the success of her "tub" gowns. Madnme brought out for my inspection several dainty models, pointing to them with pardonable pride as having no terror for the laundress. They were very smart and bore no trice of a utilitarian standimint. and therein lay A thejr claim to cleverness, one bewitching' little frock was of white Persian lawn, th skirt of which told me, was cut circular, then carefully marked off Into what one might call three flounces, the bottom one. of courae, being wider and the other decreasing as they neared the waist. These circular flounce were Joined by hand with bands of English embroidery and the edges rolled, hemmed with a narrow cluny lace. Th bodice was something on the blouse order, with its square neck outlined by a wide band of tho embroidery edged ma-da- AND MODISH GOWNS. opening to allow of lace or chiffon be- ing run through. The way to wear s scarf or tie at present is to cross It beneath the chin ami to fasten It hy loops of silk rnnl or by old fashioned oniuiiictiie nf gold or brnnxe. There Is a marked preference rir hats of colored chip or crini'linr tins season, trimmed w lilt black plume ami PARISIAN DESIGNS FOR SUHHER WAISTS. velvet and relieved solely by a few flowers, with the cacheptigne of tulle. Bleeves are becoming larger and larger as the season advances. To clean gloves which are mm-- soiled use benzine. I,ilit gloves. If slightly soiled, inny be cleaned with Ilnur. Tulle - living tnuih worn for the . Tulle with chenille inta Is a specially popular nmit-iiafor the newest riming gowns. The style of hslrdi-- t siting among the evf-nii'g- l most fashionable is less high than It gold or Indian silver, a string of dull was lust season, the hnlr 'now being amber beads or one In pink coral set drawn loosely buck and done up in with dull gold. A touch of black I an almost Indissoft coil and puffs at the bock of the head. pensable item In a complete toilet Just The old fashion of wearing black or now. It inny be in belt, buttons or while nets or chiffons over color to trimming on the newest bodices and down,- wrapping our depression the while In coats and furaf But tha sun shines, and I am taking from Ita box for your delectation a creation destined to be worn at a fete champetre. Tha frock to of point desprit, a material of which fashion seems never to tire. Th skirt of tha gown to full; at least there ur bT .v upon billows of foamy net at tho foot line, although the widths are cunningly gored at. the waiat. At the bottom of the Jupe are Insertions and Inaeta of lace put ta with piping of white satin. Thia latter note, by the way, to very new and effective. The waiat haa ruffles of lace and net edged with a tiny band of satin running- - up from the belt and over the shoulders. The neeft to round and collarleaa and th sleeves the cutest little "baby" affairs you ever saw, shirred and edged with cunning little ruffles and pushed up high above tho elbows. A flowered girdle of pompadour ribbon with, long flowing ends ta the one touch of color on thia otherwise all whits creation. The hat to be worn with tho garden party gown to of the - point d'eaprlt taken up in tiny pin tucks all over tha old fashioned poke shape. A long salmon pink ostrich feather dangles In languishing fashion from one side, and the strings of pa m pa dour ribbon seem made for ornament rather than for use, for (hey are to be loosely knotted and allowed to float over my lady's shoulders. When long gloves of flesh colored suede, a lime. Pompadour parasol and a dog collar of black velvet ribbon clasped with a diamond buckle ar added to tlw costume the fortunate owner of the frock haa but to don an automobile cloak of white pongee to be ready to chug, chug, away to the feta. Aa t tha Hair. Pretty, fluffy hair ornaments will decorate the heads of young matrons and debutantes at summer dances, and now that the lingerie frock to ao popular a dress for these informal functions the fancy for giving a touch of cqlor through the hair ornament to mightily approved. A bow of pale bluo gauss ribbon stuck through with a feathery spray to one of the novelties displayed at a shop in th Rue de la Palx. But the dernier crl to the new comb or hairpin that to used to hold In plare obstreperous curl and puffs. This pin to really a smalt bar. usually of tortoise shell Inlaid with traceries of silver or stones and mounted on hairpin. Another variation has a top formed at a short' tortoise shell dagger with g Jew-eled hilt. Still another decoration pecially pretty for the hair, when dressed pompadour and colled low on the neck. Is to pin roses at the tup of tho head and second bunch quit low In tha nape of the neck. Care must be taken to set thorn on ao that tha front and aide views are good and then to serviceable and delightful of materials for the making of blouses. Gauging to strain prominent In all the latest Mouse models Chiffon scarfs which ran easily' be made at horns, are made very attractive by adding an accordion plaited blouses. ruffle shout two Inches wide all round. ag.iin in vogue. Blue in the lapis lazuli shades ns The scarfs are very fashionable. Borne women, cannot wear successwell us the hyacinth and royal is very Long crape de chine scarfs with fully even the softest shades of precious stones, aiul so this type should much to the fore for hat trimmings. broad bands of solid embroidery across one of to the quaint necklets of old one of the most each rnd, are finished with a nine Inch select Crepe, de thine band of network connect them with after the Juliet cap style. If tbs cap effect ia thought to dressy tha flowers alune arts piquant. For the very young girl a full blown rose and n few buds tucked coquet-ttoh- ly behind each ear and connected with n twist of ribbon form a fetching and youthful arrangement. Th new hate demand a new back comb, and the designers have not been low in seising an opportunity for their artistic aklll In this direction. The Invention to an ordinary comb with long, wavy teeth beautified at the top with five pear shaped knobs that make a moat attractive finish and ar useful g. In preventing th cheapeau from slip-Pin- , Tha Elastic Csinturs. To talk a minute of belts, the elastto celntura has always been a favorite, and this season it 1a more In vogue than ever. The reason why these bell a ara so liked la not hard to Imagine, tha crux of tha situation being found la their trim appearance and the graceful way they ahapa themselves to the figure. Black and white am tha most successful colorings, and the smartest black examples are dotted with Jet beads and fastened with Jet buckles. The whit elastic to studded with steal and clasped with a steel or silver buckle. One of the most attractive belt shown to of plain black elastic with large, oval buckle of dull chased sliver. But ta all materials the practical belts of the season are narrower than those of last year. CATHERINE TALBOT. i TWO PIECE FROCKS. The principal dress form continues to be the two piece form that to. a waist and skirt separately made, and the waiat so finished that It may be worn over the skirt and itself be' made to form the flntah and the girdle. Tha newest skirts are all of exaggerated length and fullness. The old bell skirt to reviving that la. It to called the old bell skirt, but In fact It, too, to changed and appears novel. It fits closely over the hips, but Immediately below them begins to flare, and is sometimes folly eight yards wide at the foot. The result to a swirl of pretty godeta or plaits, which begin at the hip line, and mas of entangling material about the feet which only she who to Mistress of th art of walking and dancing can manage gracefully. MORE AND MORE EMBROIDERY. The erase for embroidery to on the Increase, and It to likely to make the best frocks extremely expensive. Everything good ta the way of dress to perfect harmony In shades, and tha successful dressmakers and milliners are artists of no mean order. These ere attractive, eia light wran for the neck and atlk fringe. ther aa shoulders nr aa a dainty head covering. Lace and embroidered linen cowls ara as fashionable aa ever. Embroidered boleros In all linen wlU be worn with ny sort of white skirt. Braid Is used as a trimming more than ever this seasnn, while no gown touch Is considered complete without of embroidery of some kind, that of an eastern character being very effective |
