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Show 4C The Salt Lake Tribune, Friday. October 24, 1986 ws-t- If fashion is mirror, French out of touch impossibly high plastic shoes with thick, bandage-lik- e straps His evening creations include pastel chiffon gowns rippling with ruffles and sashed with crisscrossed lacing at the waist The gowns are and could double as nightgowns, which perhaps they are Enfant Terrible Jean Paul Gaultier, Paris enfant terrible, kept buyers and reporters waiting 90 minutes in a cavernous on the outskirts of Paris before presenting a show that was silly and vulgar. Professional models and amateurs, some of indeterminate gender, tromped down the runway in clunky clown shoes, wearing all manner of bizarre styles: gold plastic jackets, iridescent stretch bodysuits, a taffeta bubble skirt topped by a baseball jacket, striped bloomers over tights decorated with roman numerals. The pieces de resistance, however, were pointy satin bras paired with trousers and a long-lin- e mens girdle shown with sneakers and a blazer. Fashion cognoscenti decribe Gaultiers creations as directional; those not brainwashed by Vogue and Elle call them idiotic. The House of Chloe, long renowned for its elegant, innovative clothes, is in chaos. After Karl Lagerfelds departure two years ago, a suitable successor has yet to be found. The latest candidate is Carlos Rodriguez, 38, a South American designer who does Japanese-styl- e clothes worn with ankle socks and sneakers. fashion was a Alas, mix never meant to be. Jill Gerston Kmght-Ridde- r Newspapers PARIS If, as costume historians maintain, fashion is a mirror of the times, then French designers are sorely out of touch. In a weekend marathon of spring r collections, shown under tight security in tents in the Louvre courtyard, the runways overflowed with flirty, frivolous ingenue styles more suited to the placid 50s than the tumultuous 80s. Karl Lagerfeld showed twirly dance dresses embroidered with Cadillac bumper motifs, Claude Montana offered puffy leather bloomers and bubble skirts; Thierry Mugler endorsed Heidi dresses for day and pastel lingerie for night, and Jean-Pau- l Gaultier proposed satin brassieres and stiff plastic jackets. It is silly stuff, indeed The reality is that Paris is not the bet place to be right now. Guards at Door There are guards at the doors of several posh hotels, and security teams check packages and handbags at the entrance to department stores. The usually bustling Champs-Elyse- e is quiet, and normally crowded restaurants in Les Halles have vacant tables People stride purposefully along the Rue Faubourg all but ignoring the expensive, elegant shop windows. At the end of the month, Francois Leotard, the minister of culture, will go o the United States to try to drum up business and tourism. By ready-to-wea- Saint-Hono- Just came in: STEINWAYS used in Aspen Mus c Festival9 ALL PlANOi t used in If Pans is not as t was dubbed during last months terrorist bombings, it is not the romantic, carefree City of Light, either. Tense times do not necessarily deBeirut-on-the-Sein- e, ONLY A FEW LER $1,5S5 I to his look is well-suite- the ! FULL SIZE CONSOLE Wan ut or Oak, Satin or High Polish Reg 2,730 00 Ebony as Trade Ins! 3 1 1 Cable Nelson 1 Kohler Studio 1 Ivers 8t Pond Studio 8i 153 Soulh Main Pll. Campbell 359-763- 3 wjas Designer Karl Lagerfeld shows short printed bolero with long d fitted jacket, short flared skirt in black linen. Latin-Orient- J (5MCSI6 DA'-YSB- S Reuter Photo 1 as $795 low Baldwin Hamilton Studios Yamaha Professional double-breaste- mand sober, practical, cheerless clothes. But surely, there is some better alternative than bubble skirts and plastic jackets. So far, the designer who has come closest to bridging the gap between the serious and the silly is Karl Lagerfeld, whose spring ready-to-wecollection was filled with soft, swirly clothes meant for graceful women with good legs. Simple, Lighthearted Everything is simple and lighthearted, with the focus on short, flippy skirts and soft, easy jackets with little structuring or padding The feeling for movement extends even to his straight skirts, which usually have a frilly little flounce at the hem. Not surprisingly, there are very few pants in the collection. Lagerfelds fluttery ? Snowbird Arts pin-strip- r, ; ZALES RED TAG CLEARANCE! d and colorful printed silks; it looks utterly absurd, however, when done in black leather. For finishing touches, there are Mad Hatter-typ- e hats, sheer black d pumps and stockings, hoop earrings. Things get wilder for evening Models capered down the catwalk in swirly black strapless dresses embroidered with silver Cadillac bumpers or decoheadlights and all rated with huge copper sunflowers Claude Montana eschewed the swirly-twirl- y look for a stronger, more forceful silhouette that paired short, tight jackets with loosely draped bloomer pants The pants are fine when they are long, when Montana hikes them up some in into tiny bloomer shorts suede and leather, no less they look like Renaissance page costumes. And when worn by models with stiff, stand-ucone hairdos, eyes and narrow black sunglasses, it is difficult to tell on what planet, let alone in what century, they belong. Montana Passions Other Montana passions include jodhpurs, suede boleros dripping with fringe, bubble skirts and split-levjackets that are long and straight in front and short and bloused in back felack leather dominates the evening scene, with short petticoated skirts sprouting beneath snug, jackets embroidered in silver and studded with little silver discs JSlack leather and tulle petticoats are not a match made in heaven Thierry Muglers collection presented without his usual Cecil B theatrics in his small showroom, focused on cutesy, ingenue dresses with big circular skirts and tight bodices, with crisscross lacing dowr. the front Worn by buxom, blonde milkmaid-typ- e models with gold shafts of w heat irvthpir hair, they called up visions of Heidi, to others especially English the entire disand Italian viewers play was a tasteless tribute to the yijung maidens of the Third Reich Mugler also endorses stiff peplum jackets, droopy skirts that dip at one side and rise at the other, fluttery, floral chiffon dresses, plastic flowers pinned behind the ear, and pin-d- (V'l Sales G KARAT 14 GOLD high-heele- JEWELRY bonusAG red T i ;s Nucj i I ,11 i , CV v c! 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