Show T3 5 1989 The Salt Lake Tribune Sunday November Tracking tigers atop an elephant in jungles of India By Richard M Weintraub Washington Post Writer "Sahib Sahib Come quickly The tiger they are seeing" said the breathless voice outside the tent For two days we had gotten up in n the hours to patrol the trails and roads of Bandhavgarh National Park in an open jeep the crisp December air cutting into the beauty of the central Indian forests and fields The tigers we were told definitely were there but what with the recent rains they were not coming out to the water holes as they would in abundance in just a few weeks The third night we decided to sleep through the morning chill "Call us if you see anything" we said on turning in in absolute certainty a tiger would be sighted and we would miss it When the voice called we quickly dressed and clambered aboard the waiting jeep Moments later we pulled up beside a small group of people gesturing toward the woods The mahouts already had taken two groups of people lumbering off into the forest on their elephants to the place where they had seen a large male tiger Fifteen anxious minutes later the elephants returned their riders ecstatic at what they had seen but the mahouts were unsure how much more there would be to see The tiger was moving higher into the hills that cut through the center of the Bandhavgarh Preserve They were worried the elephants would not be able to follow From ancient times elephants have been used in India to track the tiger There seems to be a standoff between the huge beasts and the great cats that in times not too far gone allowed hunters to stalk the tiger from elephant-bacand that today permits the tourist game warden or naturalist to track without fear At most Indian game parks jeeps are used to track the tigers At Bandhavgarh and a few others however the elephant still rules going where the jeep never can and in a style no motor vehicle ever can match The mahouts become expert trackers and know every tiger by name and by his or her habits Our elephant started off through the woods the howdah on which we sat rolling with the steady gait Soon however the ground began to rise sharply seemingly too steep for such a large animal The obstacles were more in the minds of the unexperienced riders however The elephant picked her way down steep gullies and up even steeper hillsides until suddenly the mahout swung her arouhda large bush and pointed There not 10 feet ahead a very very large tiger lay sleeping Not growling not snarling not even looking He was flat out asleep Soon two other elephants came up the hill of large aniforming a semi-circlmals astonished visitors and clicking cameras around the tiger Surely this was going to get him angry But the mahouts knew their animal At one point he did become aware enough to open one eye yawn and turn his head over before going to sleep again Jokes about getting down to pet the nice kitty were quickly discouraged however The tiger and the elephant may have made their peace but a human on the ground was not part of it For 10 minutes we stood there as the tiger slept and stretched and yawned seemingly no farther away than an outstretched hand Yet there were no bars of a cage no noises of a city The only sounds after the initial flurry of photographs and comments were those of the deep forest and the occasional comment passed between the mahouts All too soon the elephants were making their way back down the hill and we were in the jeeps heading back to the camp for breakfast and sitting out in the warm morning sun enjoying the serenity and sounds of central India far from the usual tourist track The Bandhavgarh park is 4054 square miles of fields forests and rolling hills dominated by one very precipitous hill that forms a natural fort and was used for this purpose at least 2000 years ago It still is the property of the maharajah of Rewa Hartand Singh Ju Deo and the park itself was his shikhara or hunting preserve until he ceded it to the government as parkland 20 years pre-daw- k e ago The main gate and other features of the fort date at least from the 12th century and its ancient temples and rock carvings are a major reason in themselves to visit Bandhavgarh e The hilltop contains huge manmade lakes to hold water and the outlines of some of the great buildings of bygone eras still are visible One small outbuilding contains a 580-acr- - 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:v:i::-'- ' 14' :::::: :f!n74: iet 0 :' :''77! v ' " 4 401:: :::1::::::!'1':i tii' ''''''" c'4 41 i '? ::': '': :i: :y 7"1144sittolz:: 4r ''''' :: ' 4: ::':JiiifIC4:::A1:Yi ::i1gi ?!F' I '''' :'':':'- - ‘ () f1 t:1: ':: :H1 ' - t :t:::':::: 1:- -r '!:!:: :': 0 :' :''lik '14': 4' 'tf ‘: '5 4':::-!- o :: 1( ill4' i - :1 (!':r:':':i!!!!' :::':0-'::'-::- '0 4:jV i:':!!I' ::k::' u '':!::' ::':' :: :l:: ':''4 r - :: ii::::::: "'''':::::::1:: ti: i": r::::" :vii00r0 ::::::-:::- 1:': '''f''''"'''''''':t':'"'::':::: ::::::::: :::::::::t :::::: :::::::NoAis::41T:::i:::i:::7::0-::f::::!:-:4714-- - t!:::::i::::::::::1 I ':400‘4' - 41:: t ' 71!':14ki 'I N:t 4:4 i::::i:wi:? 4 :::::: ::: i : 4:-:- ::!i'::::1::::!:ii:!:LA::No":igki:4:J4::: ''::::!3 ::::::: z :::: :itt:::"44::i :e:::::::pf: :::: - 0: Att::::As4:4110k Bandhavgarh National Park in central India has been designated a reserve Country's tiger population is now at 4000 sculptures this aspect soon fades into the general beauty and majesty of temples that are relatively unscathed by the great invasions that character changed the architer4-11d- i THE BOULDERS near Phoenix of so much (1 the country to the Ariz is rated as the best US resort north Both the Sheraton and the for the third consecutive year and Oberoi chains have hotels at KhajurJumby Bay in the Caribbean the top international resort in the latest isaho rooms run $60 to $100 a night sue of the Hideaway Report which to get lists the although you might be able leading 15 choices of readbetter rates on a tour even a specialers in each category ly arranged one DOMESTIC: (1) The Boulders (2) If you prefer to skip Agra and The Greenbrier in West Virginia (3) Orchha both Indian Airlines and Laguna Niguel Calif in Naples Fla (5) (4) to a smaller carrier fly Vayadoot and (6) Mauna Kea Mauna Lani Bay Khajuraho from Delhi From Khaboth on the Island of Hawaii (7) The r a is drive about it juraho Cloister Sea Island Ga (8) Vento Bhandavgarh through small towns tana (9) Auberge du Soleil and (10) and farmlands that give you a sense Lodge at Pebble Beach all Califorof village India you will not get on a nia (11) Halekulani (12) Kapalua all Hawaii visit to Delhi or Bombay The hotels Bay and (13) Hana-Mau- i car and driver can arrange for your — probably the same one who picked you up in Jhansi Again the costs are relatively modest — WHERE TO STAY: At Bandavgarh there are two choices: a very modestly priced Madhya Pradesh 1 E state government rest house for a 1 few dollars a night or the wonderful ml Bhandavgarh Jungle Camp the tent I a dozen With where stayed village large tents — each equipped with beds electricity and even a small changing room — the camp is a delightful mix of comfort and a sense of being in the woods with wildlife Cost is about $80 per night including all meals guided jeep trips into the park and of course the elephants The camp is located just outside the park entrance on the grounds of the Boulders rated best 1710 '7 owl' 'odd !!! (14) Arizona Biltmore near Phoenix and (15) Cancel Bay on St John in the US Virgin Islands INTERNATIONAL: (1) Jumby Bay Antigua (2) Malliouhana Anguilla (3) Little Dix Bay British Virgin Islands (4) Villa d'Este Italy (5) n Chateau du Domaine France (6) Petit St Vincent in the Grenadines (7) Cap Juluca Anguilla (8) Brenner's Park West Germany (9) San Pietro Italy (10) Amanapuri Thailand (11) Las Brisas Mexico (12) Peter Island British Virgin Islands (13) Hotel Bora Bora French Polynesia (14) The Meridian Club Turks & Caicos Islands and Coca Point Lodge Barbuda ' er USA' Saint-Marti- Ritz-Carlto- n Ritz-Carlto- n five-hou- ins ANGFI FS s murkick Siteliffr: gif) raltilitialgi11t0 El OPE 'P HAWAII Meals are served sometimes in the lodge sometimes at an open-sidethatch-roofefire hut An open-pi- t at the hut in the evenings is the focal point for drinks and conversation with guests from around India and the world Young naturalists on the camp staff add their lore to the gatherings as well as to trips into the park from dawn to nightfall Reservations for the camp can be made through Tiger Tops International USA Inc 2627 Lombard St San Francisco Calif 94123 (415) I 0 d d 346-340- 2 — INFORMATION: Government of India Tourist Office 30 Rockefeller Plaza 15 North Mezzanine Floor New York NY 10112 (212) 586- - '2' is $449 $449 $569 $499 Brussels Copenhagen Frankfurt Round trip aorlare plus tax SOnle 74- i $599 $489 $499 $499 Paris Zurich tl '''''4 V 'tonix wairawi ORIENT HONG KONGTAIPEI $699 (FROM SLC Depart by Nov 20) TOKYO Call SOUTH AMERICA MO DE JANE1110 $899 SAO PAULO $899 (FROM LAX) Suhleu to 11ing SOUTH PACIFIC AUCKLAND (SEPT -- NOV We 2 : Vote ompleic grearsm believe in Utah's Olympics PdYES Nov 1 5 4rt 4 41 I 11 Ztki 1 f(i0 t it 99 r - 4 it'1311151$7 99 A DIVISINI MUDZIOCIC TRAVEL 60 t kEitzAt : JENSEN BARON orris skMtRnterllrave lositoisas ilk i : Irtliioaltitri Sr Cr 519 thadon Oinililatill'acikiige k al FROM LAX) rtancicisi6- Everyone Wins! March Lawrence Welk Village San Diego guided tours of Tijuana and Hollywood NBC Studios Spruce Goose Queen Mary Huntington Library Forrest Lawn and more $999 : EUROPE 1ttlthilit and Front Salt 1Laks ' - tor ppl) $ 679 (FROM LAX) Sail with the American Cancer Society on a 4 night voyage aboard Norwegian Cruise Lines niS Southward Sail to the ports of Catalina Island San Diego and Ensenada Includes round trip airfare from Salt Lake City This cruise will be personally escorted by Mr Dutch Belnap Chairman of the Northern Chapter of American Cancer Society Departs February 12 1990 Sonic retrictiOrts t ' Complete Vacation—Exclusive product that can only he purchased at NlorrisAsk Mr Foster Travel Includes: 3 night cruise4 night hotel Epcot Pass Disney World Pass 7 day rental car and Morris Ask Mr Foster Travel Does not include airfare rcr purmm tio SAI41 OrlandoBahamaseeruiseront $495 Mary (Ilan Eiggren COUNTRY ROADS May 314 The Kentucky Derby in Louisville Lexington & the horse farms Great Smoky Mountains Dollywood the Biltmore Mansion at Asheville Chattanooga Nashville Opryland Grand Ole Opry ' Graceland in Memphis America's heartland of rich culture P4 ruises On Sale Prke - - apply Sutlect iu asnlability Call or complete details teSVICISOri ) INTERN–AM—NA-11- J Fares Glasgow London (froml-A- ROUND TRIP AIRFARE American Cancer SRikty Mexican Cruise from S399 : 'NJ Amsterdam HAWAII A co $399 $ 299 HAwmiffromsw) ON"S LLE maharajah's old hunting lodge 9 4 Based on Roundtrip Purchase At 10 for one 0 stays 'Limited availability tc: 41iF 71:::: ' :: 7 ::: :: Ir 22-Ap- I- 7::':'?: - :r 58314038 March ':':41 44::1 :!s::ia:tir7 :' :': oe' New Orleans Natchez Pilgrimage Atlanta Charleston (with 6 months recovery from Hugo) Savannah St Augustine Cape Canaveral Orlando EPCOT 2 Cypress Gardens The South in spring bloom and at a leisurely pace with night 1 rooms and excluded ::'40 ::441- i ' ::''''' 144ilit: r :iIf ' :$r"r ''''':::: tr::-"":1 !'I' '"'::'''''''p''''Hi: ocrontwoolook4 $':a1:m' ''3':: ii--: ::v::::::11?:::eP 1t :: w Sk:L 44:: 'i:x:: ' :e 04Ak '4:':' -' 41' ' :4: '"'" ::::00000"1"r-!m:0001!0411141071- ::11:k "?::: sOtittlOVRP:'::47 :w0:4:Tr ::: ' )$ ::!:::: '- DEEP SOUTH "''''' 4i 4:r4 h::" 7::'"':::h- -- ':::-''- 40000000 401 - :::::!vi::s: ':1''':4t"': ':''': 0V-4'''- i0k'-:'- :'Ali: :: - ::: ''::3'k':?::::4' :'''A7'':':'::::' ::4is:-- : - 'e: ::‘ - 14141"::?':?A'-'- Ruth Clawson Shields 2 must be made by Nov Call today el ' t Tours: November Reservations :: :: ::::::-- A::::'::::::0:':7§1k t:!: 4' -: ::': l'4e:!:Frfti::1:! ::f ':it CLAWSON SHIELDS TOURS ' Sunday thru Wednesday ' :t' - :r ':::: CALL FOR FREE BROCHURES dbl occupano and up per night per person ' ' :: :!wir ??::::: ::1"tf::::?:ik N':':sIQ::::::4 AVOILABI INTERTOUltho! t' d ii 4 4 y Top-clas- :::: ILit DAVSO 8-01- 10 - s:::: LONG DISTANCE TOLL FREE: CLITSIVE14 SAN I dozen exquisite rock carvings that could be prized museum pieces A huge reclining statue of the god Vishnu greets visitors at the base of the hill and other huge carvings of Vishnu's 10 incarnations dot the hillside One a magnificent tortoise is 48 feet long and eight feet wide and is carved from a single rock The fort and its environs are part of Hindu mythology figuring in the ancient tales of the Ramayana thousands of years ago and there are written inscriptions from the first century testifying to its long history Like much in India it has been relatively forgotten in the rush of more modern times but also like much in this country there are scholars and local people who keep alive both its history and its role in contemporary life A visit to the fort with a picnic lunch will take up at least one day of a stay at Bandhavgarh and easily more if your interest in ancient India is deep enough Unpublished histories of the park speak of a number of ancient temples and shrines in the area The sanctuary itself is full of sambar nilgai wild boar wild dog and other animals and cats in addition to its tigers all of which can be seen at ease from jeeps when the elephants are not available At one time the park also was home to the famous white tigers although these now are in zoos Peacocks a variety of ducks hawks eagles and numerous other species of birds also are abundant During holiday seasons a number of visitors can make their way to Bandhavgarh but even then the limited accommodations in the area leave a lot of room to roam without encountering too many other humans Park naturalists say that during periods especially in February and March there are often only a few outsiders in the park leaving the animals uninhibited These often are the best times to visit since not only are the animals more prone to venture out to water holes and into the vast fields full of jungle grass but the demand for the park's elephants also is much less Young naturalists tell of spending days with the mahouts tracking one or another of the park's tigers in an ongoing effort to record changes in India's big-cpopulation part of the countrywide Project Tiger The project is a combined effort by the Indian government and the World Wildlife Fund with help from other agencies to save and revive the Indian tiger In more than a decade tens of thousands of acres of forest and scrubland have been designated as reserves and the country's tiger population which had shrunk from an estimated 40000 at the turn of the century to 2000 had grown to about 4000 — GETTING THERE: Bandhavgarh National Park is deep in central India and not the easiest place to reach although it is possible to put together a trip of eight to 12 days that would combine much of the best that India has to offer From New Delhi the Shatabdi Express a new fast train goes to Agra where of course there are the Taj Mahal the Mogul-er- a Agra Fort and a few miles out of town the famous abandoned Mogul capital Fatehpur Sikri s hotels such as the Taj View and the Mughal Sheraton (both with rates of about $100 a night double) as well as a number of lower-budgplaces are available with a little advance planning After one or two nights at Agra I recommend continuing south on the Shatabdi to Jhansi a short distance from the ancient town of Orchha which has a number of palaces and temples from the 16th 17th and 18th centuries when it was a Rajput capital and a battleground where the Mogul kings met stubborn resistance from Raj put chieftains who had ruled the area since the 12th century Getting to Orchha takes a bit of planning but is easily managed by travel agent any major Delhi-baseSince your next stop is the famous temple city of Khajuraho the agent should have the hotel at which you are staying in Khajuraho send a car to meet the train at Jhansi — a regular arrangement that should cost no more than $30 The train arrives in late morning and after a stop at Orchha for lunch and sightseeing you could be in Khajuraho by evening Just as Agra is a gem for Mogul architecture Khajuraho offers examples of the finest of Hindu architecture While its temples are (justifiably) known for their erotic di! 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