Show RIDING THE SOUTH SEA SURP authors descar anon makes one long to part pate 1 shall never forget the first big wave I 1 caught out there in the deep water I 1 saw it coming turned my back on it and paddled for dear life faster and faster my board went until it seemed my arms would drop off what was happening behind me I 1 could not tell one cannot look be hind and paddle the windmill stroke I 1 heard the crest of the wave hissing and churning and then my board was lifted and flung forward I 1 scarcely knew what happened the first hall minute though I 1 kept my eyes open I 1 could not see anything tor I 1 was buried in the rushing white at the crest but I 1 did not mind I 1 was chiefly conscious of ecstatic bliss at having caught abe wave at the nd ot the halt minute however I 1 began to see things and to breathe I 1 saw that three feet of the nose of my board was clear out of water and riding on the air I 1 shifted my weight forward and made the nose come down then I 1 lay quite at rest in the midst of the wild movement and watched the shore and the bathers on the beach grow distinct I 1 dian didn t cover quite a quarter of a mile on that wave be cause to prevent the board from div ing I 1 shifted my weight back but shifted it too tar and ell down the rear slope of the wave jack london in the woman s home companion |