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Show The Salt Lake Tribune NIGHT OUT Friday. January5. 199¢ The Oyster Bar: A Pearl Among Seafood Eateries Musical Honors Utah, By Deborah Lewis ANONYMOUS SPECIAL TO THE TRIBUNE Eating at The Oyster Bar is akin to eating in a NewYork sa- loon. A small draftyfoyer housing several friendlyhosts,as well as a formidable computer that determines your status, is your first en- counter in this Gastronomy Inc.owned private club. ° Oncediners hold the magic pas- sage, they are escorted through the wood andbrass doorsinto the Thursday, be seen), with even larger mirrors covering the back walls, The floors are black and white tile and the black tables and booths, with white linen, arecozily set on twolevels. DINNER The centrally located bar is three-sided, adorned bytall square-shaped pillars decorated with fanciful murals. It not only serves up potables, but also displays iced mountainsofcrabs and oysters. Twolarge blackboards on the east and west walls, announcing the manyspecials of the day, complete the decor. All in all, the place is clubby, but casual. You can order bluepoint oysters by the half-dozen or dozen Fresh and on the half-shell they arrive properly chilled with side accompaniments of lemon wedges, cocktail sauce and freshly ground horseradish. Many folks wish for morevarieties of oysters but, after all, this is highdesert country where seafood ar- rives by planeon dailybasis. Steamers (clams and cockles) 11:30 a.m.-11 Promontory snapper can be preparedin just about any mannerthat suits the diners grilled poached) that thereis no she-crab souplisted. Perhaps this famous Carolina Non-seafood dishes are avail able, among them the New York sirloin steak sandwich, the best- dish mayonedayfind a place on kept secret in town. For $10.99 the menu TheAlaskanking-crab legs (24 salmon — pale, moist and tender. structure, is a mealfit for those hardy folk willing to work for their dinner. Of course, the 14ounce Australian lobster tail — in-shell, elegant and expensive — Capers and chopped red onion are served with the fish, but be judiciousin their useas the salmon should stand on its own Movingontoa favorite section, the shellfish chowders and stews are distinctive in their assortment: big chunks of lobster, for example, in a hot and creamy bisque that is delicately pink and full of flavor. The cioppino (lobster, shrimp, crab, clams, mus- (blackened, to sound greedy, but it is too bad ounces), presented in an abstract an enormous slab of beef steak perched atop a hunk of garlic toast, arrives, accompanied by fried zucchini and a Rambo-type knife, Thenthereis the blackened chicken breast that incorporates spinach greens, watercress mushrooms, tomatoes andred on ion The Oyster Bar serves mostly American wines, along with a few Italian and French wines. Merlots and cabernets, as well as chardon nays andsauvignon blanes, domi nate, Also includedare a few impeceable champagnes. All in all is also an entry worthy ofacele- feast. Though a bit chewy r sweet andrich. (Unfortunately, the cheese-topped forest of broccoli alongside the lobster tail is a distracting presen- tation.) The salmonfilet arrives delicately poached and rare —ex- actly as ordered. A well-flavored tartar sauce accompaniesthe fish but is not needed. Other seafood such as swordfish, mahi mahi and almost 50 different bottles from fourstates and two foreign coun- tries are represented Mom’s Cafe: Homemade Food in Heart of Salina ByMargaret Godfrey play cards with a man named Xeno or Dallas, never swear on Sunday, andnever eat at a restaurant called Mom's. For all of you people who resist card playing and swearing, please make an exceptionin the caseof Mom's Cafe. This corner restaurant has been an institution in central Utah since 1929, serving z00d, homemade foodandplenty of it Mom's is in the heart of Salina, at the crossroads of State and Main, bythecity’s y stop sign. This town w: d more than a hundred years ago, indits original adohe-brick s fronts still stand, nowdisguised with makeovers of paneled wood ind plaster, A hardwarestore. a bar and other small enterprises line thestreet, all seeming to do a Obvious outsiders, on their wayto or from the wilds of southern Utah, aretolerated by the townsfolk and treated nicely by the staff, ‘This is chicken-fried-steak and LUNCH SPECIAL TO THE TRIBUNE There is an old saying — never slow-paced business. By contrast Mom’s is a beel Mom's Cafe 10 E. Main St., Salina @ Hours: Daily, 7 a.m.-10 ut not necessary Qo Cordelia Jackson.”? women, many of them single mothers. My scrambled mind kicked in PAT DAVIS and I cameupwith the character of Cordelia Jackson,” W te Cent Davis said The places and events are his torically accurate ments. Davis’ story begins when Cor delia. called Cordy, is 15 and her brother Josh is 7. They were orphaned whentheir parents were killed by outlaws. Navajos found the children hiding in a buckboard and took themto their village. Cordy eventually marries a The show features 30 mu sical compositions and 17 songs — stylistically reminiscent of bal lads. folk and Broadway The bartender sings “Spiritual Adviser” as he converses with the Soiled Doves,” the town prosti tutes. Cordy laments about life When herhusband is killed, she and the men who love her in What Do You Do?” and she and her son join together for “Yaa her son andbrotherreturntoSalt teeh.” ployment as a telegraph operator finale and arrives whenthe spike is driven and the transcontinental Navajo and they have a son Lake City, where she finds em and is embracedby the communi ty. Cordy’s life is going well until she learns that the railroad is coming, She worries that the outsiders who come with therailroad will not accept her or her mixed race son There were numerous people who supported the arrival of the railroad,” Davis said, “but there were also a great number who op posed it, believing it would ruin the state. In someways, the argu ments parallel those heard today concerning Utah being selected The title song is the show's railroad arrives. Jennifer Minster Asay portrays Cordy Mary AnnKirk. co-chairwoman of the Salt Lake County Centennial Committee. said discussions be an nearly three years ago about ays to unite the county for the state Centennial. Arts groups and members from different munici palities in the community agreed that a musical was the direction tc go. Davis was asked because of her community involvement, her artistic background andthe fact for the 2002 Winter Olympic that she hada theater with an es: tablished season and the technical Games support to produce the show Thefocus ofthe show is enter- The production was given a tainment, however, not polities $50,000 budget.” said Kirk, “with $25,000 coming from Centenni Betcha!” it money and the additional $25,000 anticipated to be earned through ticket sales which was the original choiceof roll or scone for $6.75 since 1975, A typical Sundayafternoonin Daily specials run $4.75, and in- @ Wheelch: Child's menu: Yes MCredit cards: Discover. MasterCard, Visa of the “saloon girls,” She read the script and was impressedthat it was not another story about Utah's Mormon-dominated histo: ry. Theother plus: the music breadservedwith butter and hon- citement in a score. This has both various honorees from the And the lyrics often sound like ty’s municipalities including Alta Draper, Midvale, Taylorsville Bennion, West Jordan, M Sandy, Union. Kearns and \ Valley City Davis will be honored Friday in (typically canned corn), and a uiquor: clude meatloaf and au-gratin po- tatoes, chicken strips, stuffed Salina finds the parking lot across the street from Mom's full, and the restaurant filled with local pork chops and chicken pot pies peopledressedin church clothes. menuis — surprise — the cheeseburger, which canbeordered solo The most popularitem on the Uniformedwaitresses wander the ey for $1.25. hand, stopping to chat with friends and catch uponthelocal news. Pictures of Mom's family (and it appearssheis matriarchto alarge brood) decorate thewalls Action behind the counter is fast andloud, as salads are assembled that her scones are made from scratch from a sweet-bread reci pe, and that they aren't cooked until ordered When Mom is through with you hungry, it's wise to stop off at you'll most likely leave her place groaning with pleasure, in needof Mom's for her famous scones — plate-size, airy mounds of hot andpie is wedged from the pan DID You HEAR THE ONE ABOUT... they had in common is they both Favorite jokes from Utah and national comedians, and from a smattering of other well-known names My mom hasalot oftalents Right now she’s making a welcome mat out of broken Lee Press-On Nails. She madeall the jewelry I wore in high school out Mom is not giving out anysecrets: she'll say only for $2.70, or deluxe for $4 whichincludes frenchfries and a salad. Fresh trout is usually availble with all the trimmings for 7.25. even if you're not really two rooms with jugs of waterin a walk to aid digestion It is stunning.” Luke said I'm attracted to melody and ex. love songs to the state. “The Mountains Call Me Home’ is par- ticularly compelling. As a person who left Utah and eventually re turned, I remember sitting in a New York movie theater watch ing ‘Jeremiah Johnson,’ and cry ing when I saw the Wasatch Mountains onthe screen Lukesaid the two-hour musical has some subtle jokes about po lygamy and there is a Mormon family, wanted 13 kids. Well, that and they both want aliquor clerk who but the overall affect is one of a diverse community that existed during the late 1860s can keep their mouthshut Davis. who also directs. said it will not be a visually pretty show I wantedthe costumes to appear worn, authentic, large cast features teens and children ‘The numerous The musical is Plain’s debut as 1 theatrical composer, though he of dried peas and macaroni, and My father's Mormon, my mother’s Catholic. About theonlything and I wanted thi characters to appear young.” has written choir music for a cappella and several choral arrar shecrochetedall the lawn furniture. Utah theaters wanting to prc duce the show during nial year may do so the ing royalties. After that are retained by Davis and Plain In addition to the performance the SLCCC will nightly present it Once in a Hundred Awards” to brief remarks before the opening night curtain. A reception will fol low the performance in room Wi8l We wanted to honor Pat only for the fact that she te the Centennial musical,” Kirk aid. “but for her service to com munity theater in the Salt Lake alley for over 40 vears Others to be honored, son posthumously. during threc week engagement are: all Midvale mayors, lawyer Joseph Quine Carlos Smith, Harold and } va Smith, JosephS. Bennic ise Green, Wright, Ted Loos, Paul Walker, ) KATARINA ot Bridal Showcase. 7, West Mart 200sisi January 5 & 6, E xpo Relax in the luxurious setting of the 1996 edition of the Bridal Showcase. Feelthe excitement of ov er 60 wedding specialists and KURT displays as they help you preparefor that special day FASHION SHOWS — Enjoy five exciting fashion shows featuring this season's weddingattire! Friday tand 7 pm, Saturday: 12, 3 and 6 pm. AND BECHKE & PETROV toe ea te at RAHKAMO & KOKKO HOUGH & LADRET HONEYMOON GIVEAWAY — Register to win a fabulous honeymoon to Mazatlan, Mexico courtesy of Beehive Travel Funjet Sores C ; PrinINCESS ICES CRUISES PL ea Mie eae) CT Le Leas SHOW HOURS Friday.........3:00 pm - 9.00 pm Saturday...11:00 am 8:00 PM 4 DISCOUNTTICKETS Upper wen no em eo ay ADMISSION gee 63.09 are available at participat ing retailers on uniorS 7-12 Children under 6 sm FREE G KSL TVa 4 A Kets . : i 3 w l i. CLIP. & = } SAVE Pelt ¢ i Iwo Adults + for the Price of One I Frida, Jan ts © 6 Biidal Showesse # ne . 1 =f , } ure’, | ¥ Ed Gene Fullmer, William F. Rok Noal Bateman, Neighbor House and Peterson Market UL TU Don't get married. . un OU ve visited the BEEHAE \— coun ore ia UAE bePee ay Pe rr KRISTI Scott OPENS: TODAY! )6 “My scrambled mind kicked in and I cameup with the character of presided behind the cash register Carey Eggett says her comedy raised in Utah, is a been revisited several times Through research, she became Utahactor, choreographerand director Jayne Luke portrays one is an obvious ery for professional help. Eggett, hood. And the pioneer trek had working title for the musical Lunch 1 | @ Entrees: dinner, $ Carey Eggett tor. This mother of one performs Saturday at David's. Showtimeis 9pm. Jan Tickets, available at the Grand box office. are $3 to $11 10. Mom's it is served with a choiceof soup or salad bar, a vegetable door swinging openand shut at all hours of the day. The current momis Carolyn Jensen, who has This Week’s Comic: also a licensed private investiga- May The opening song is “Utah, You mashed-potatoes country, and at s glass Summit, early telegraphoperators. mostly generous-sized soup bowls. Bouil- Gulf shrimp. The mushrooms stuffed with crab and hollandaise sauce is a worthy dish, as is the smoked 1575 S. State. Perfor mances continue nightly except Sundays, throug fascinated by the story of Utah's Card, Visa labaisse is on the menu, as are oyster chowder and mussel or seallop stew. One does not mean legs) is consumed with much gusto, as is the shrimp platter — an entire poundof in-shell Mexican atre. Salt Lake Communit College South City campus Davis had no interest in writing a musical based on events sur rounding Utah's drive to state table and thebroth is ladled into are readily available, as are Maine and NewZealand mussels. However, crab and shrimparethe ruling appetizers. A crab platter (a half pound of snow-crab legs and a half pound of king-crab 7:30 p.m. at the Grand The 1869 Express, Discovery, Master sels, halibut) arrives in a large caldron. The fish is plated at the Bands of Iron, Rings of Gold” premieres Friday at @ Continued from E-1 @ Reservations: No @ Entree viquor: @ Wheelchair access: No @ Credit cards: American immediate dining establishment small room (the better to see and to p.m.; Friday and Saturday 11:30 a.m.-11:30 p.m.; Sunday. 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m Editor's note: Salt Lake Tribune reviewers evaluate anonymously Their identities are known to the restaurateurs only upon publication of their reviews. This helps equal ize their dining experience with yours. Reviews below are coincidental to any advertising or Promotionin this or other Tribune sections. Large picture windowsfront the Monday B Go for the Gold The 45th State The Oyster Bar 54 W. Market, Salt LakeCity. 531-6044 M Hours: E15 AMERICA 3 Tikes ickets: $32, $3250 & $22.50 .50 at the th Dela Delta Center, Huntsman Center and Smith's i TsTix” locati locations. PHONE CHARGE: 801 /467-TIKK or 800/588-TIXX Use your Discover Card to purchase tickets and $1 per ticket will be donated to the Moke-A:Wish Foundotion of Utoh Group Information (20 ot more): 801/325-2567. http: //www-storsonice,com /img f && |
