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Show H3 — Puior $Y MUKHTAR Ki 1x, The. Asso An Indian family enjoys a ride on a Shikara,or traditional gondola, on the Dal Lake in Srinagar, India. For the first time since an Islamic insurgency eruptedin the picturesque Himalayan territory of Kashmir in 1989, tourists are returning to the region. Nearly 100,000 tourists, including 3,000 foreigners, have visited Kashmir since January ~ Calm Returns to Kashmir And sodothe tourists as separatist violence subsides in the region | Thelinesto take cable-car rides to a Himalayan snow field are long. Every viewpoint on the forested mountainroads is full of camera-clicking pic nickers. And resorts, hotels and houseboats are overbookedwithvisitors. ‘The tourists have come back to Kashmir. Forthefirst time since anIslamicinsur gency eruptedhere in 1989, thousandsof Indian tourists encouraged by recent peaceover- tures betweenIndia and Pakistan areleay ing the sweltering summer plains to enjoy va cations in this picture-perfect place. Nearly 100,000 touris' Ja Heading East stars on clearnight,” said Pawan Kumar, a computerprofessional fromthe steaming southern Indian city of Secunderabad, enjoying Kashmir's coolness. A short distance away, on the promenade along Srinagar’s famous Dal Lake, Akhtar Hussain, a 30-year-old boatman, invitedstrolling tourists fora ride in his brightly colored gondo- By Musrana ALI AHMAD TheAssociatedPress RINAGAR, India seasonlasts until late October. ‘Tcan’t describe whatit feels liketolie downonthe houseboat deck andcountthe com: pared with just over10,000 during the same pe- riod last year, Shazia Khanofthe Jammu: KashmirState TourismCorporationtold The Associated Press. “Ourexpectations are high this year. We hope that manymorewill continueto arrive,” Khansaidas she preparedto receivea new batch oftourists disembarkingfromairconditioned coachesat the Tourist Reception Center in Srinagar, thestate’s summer capital. Set in the Himalayasat 5,600feet above sea level, Kashmir is a green, saucer-shaped valley full offruit orchards and surrounded by snowy mountain ranges. About 100lakes dot its high. lands and plains. Glacier-fed streams flow throughtheforests,hillsides andovergrass: lands covered with wildflowers. Thetourist la,called a “shikara.” “T painted myboat and got new upholstery forthe seats. I was a boy whenso manytourists used to come here,” said Hussain. He describes the new arrivals as “God’s merc Kashmir was once oneofAsia's most popu: lartourist destinations, particularly with trek kers and honeymooners, drawing 800,000tourists every year about 40 percent of them for- igners. Tourismaccountedfor nearly 20 percent of the economy of the Indian-controlled state. Thenin 1989, the explosions and gunbattles began. The crowdstrickledto less than 25,000 peryear, after repeatedtravel warnings by Western governments, fears of warandextensive media coverage ofthe separatist vio- lence. Kashmir, at India’s northerntip, is divided, with Pakistan controlling one-third of the Hi. malayan region. Both countries claim all of it andhave fought two warsoverit since 1947. Relations between the twocountries are improv: ing, and most countries, such as the United States, have withdrawn their nings against travel to India. But they continuetoadvise against visits to Jammu-Kashmir. MohammedAshraf, director general of tour ism in Jammu-Kashmir,thestate's official name, said heis fighting to bridge what hecalls a “communication gap” with theinternational media, to counter the negative imageof the KashmirValley portrayed to potential tourists. Best time to visit: May to Oc February during winter in summer and November t Getting there: Two domestic airlines Jet Airways andIndian Airlines ~ operate daily one-hour flights from NewDelhi to Srinagar. Roun airfare for foreigners is about $125. Tourist buses make the 560-mile journeyfor $10 to $20. Things to remember: Foreigners should alwayscarry their ¢ with them. Kashmir Valley has been the center of a separatist insurgency since 1989. Stray incidents of shootings and bo occur in Srinagar and outlying towns. Armed troops and poli Streets and man checkpoints, and discourage traveling at ni Lodging: There are more than 1,000 andrivers, whichgive tourists the unique experience oflivin in a cedar-paneled elegant bedroom. A double room, includin« canrange fromthe low-budget $15 per person, per night. person. in the center of town, double rooms in hotels $42.50 toSHI7 Things to do: Go by shikara boat or af emperors aroundDal Lake. Tat a shikara lo gardens laid out y Mu ride on thelake at su et andin early morningto see the floating vegetable market and gardens. Kashmir's first mosque, Khanaqah-e-Mualla e banks of synthesis of Buddhist and Muslimarchitecture, o JhelumRiver that flows through Srinagar’s oldcity of car houses and shops. Typically, a shikara fidelasts two hours a about $4.25. Srinagar's new 18-hole lakeside Royal Springs Golf Course offers temporary membership for $21, plus greens fees and An indian girl dressed in a traditional Kashmiri dress poses for a picture. “Ourefforts are bearing fruit... We are get MuseumHill in Santa Fe Yeta first-timevisitor being driven through Santa Fe, N.M., has four world-class museumsonits MuseumHill and has addeda new Web site to promote dif of Art throughSept. 28. The | gas sculptures, including hors es, nudes and ballet dancers. 2. Children can sleep in the Forinformation, call 619-239. same environment every night 8, It’s an opportunity for qual 2001 ferent events. Facilities include the MuseumofSpanish Colonial Art, the Museum of Indian Arts and Culture,the Museum ofInternational Polk Art, the Wheelwright Museum of the American Indian and the MuseumHill Café, For information,log on to http;// www.museumhill.org. 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