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Show H6 TheSalt Lake Tribune TRAVEL Highest Adirondack Peak Lures Thousandsof Hikers BY MIKE HENDRICKS be a particular nuisanceat these crowded campsites because they THE ASSOCIATED PRESS t been a long time hikingto the Ithas nce someone top of Mount Marcy could expect to find solitude on the mile-high summit Thepopularity of the Adiron- dack High Peaks for hikers and backpackers has been increasing every year since the1980s, stress. ing the fragile alpine environment and jeopardizing the wilderness experience, As the highest point in New York state and the biggest of all the Adirondack mountains, 5.344 foot Mount Marcy is the destina: tion of choice for thousands of hikers On atypical weekday, about 50-60hi rs ‘an be countedon the summit. Saturdays are the most crowded, typically drawing more than a hundred people. Onare cent Thursday, the summit drew hikers fromArizona, Connecticut, North Carolina, Ohio, Washington and Quebec, plus scores of Boy Scouts, WayneRatowski hikes the Adirondacks at every opportunity. often going alone deep into the mountains. “It’s gotten real bad. It’s crazy, Ratowski s: jomething. has t to be done. I don't have the so: ion. | have cometo the conclu sion that the mountains are there for them, too. Ratowski, who makesthe drive from Canton to the High Peaks many times a year, goes to great zths to be alonein the Adiron: dack backcountry. Last year Ra towski climbed 298 Adirondack mountains, more than 250on solo trips. Not only does Ratowski usually hike alone, even in win: ter, but he has even hiked all 46 High Peaks in winter under a full moon, probably the ultimate way to be alone in the mountains. Ratowski often steps off the irail at the sound of approaching hikers “If T don’t want to be bothered they neversee me. Most of the 46 High Peaks that ise 4,000 feet or more above sea level are clustered in226,435 acres of the 6 million-acre Adirondack State Park. By the state count 140,000 people hiked the Adiron dack High Peaks last year. That compares with 60,000 in 1983. Most of them head for a handful of the most popular summits Marcy Algonquin, Cascade and Giant on summer weekends. Tronically, on many summer weekends, the first challenge to njoying the wilderness experi nev in the High Peaks isa typical urban problem finding a park ng place. Finding a campingspotis often the next challenge. The two most popular camping sites, around Marey Dam and the shore of Lake Colden, are congested on summer weekends and holidays. Bears can have learned the campers have food. Even the most carefully hung bag offood maynot be safe froma hiker-savvy bear. A bear thatlosesits fear of humans risks being destroyed. There are some 500 black bears in the High eaksandthousands morein the rest of the Adirondac The state has been struggling with balancing theconflicting needs of preserving a forever wild area with therecreational thirst of some 72 million people living less than a day's drive a biggest cities in the United St and Canada Newregulations will change the camping experience in the High Peaks no more roaring campfires, no more big groups tromping down thetrail, fewer an-tos to sleep in and no more parking on the side of the road Carnival Ship Offers Value, But It’s Less Than a Triumph | BY ARLINE BLEECKER KNIGHT RIDDER NEWS SERVICE Thereit was again,thatflared spent the next 10 minutestryingto this line from a purser as he in “OK, you're here on to deck 10 This elicited a few quips about permit. The regulations may be tightened after five years if the Adirondack camping experience since 1919 when thestate started building lean-tos on the slopes of Mount Marcy to drawvisitors to the mountains. At its peak there were 90 lean-tos. There are 7 lean-tos left in the Adirondacks and they may be thinned out The state is extending the ban on camping above 4,000 feet to the winter. Currently, three-season camping is bannedon the higher, more fragile elevations. Bill Eldridge, a lifelong Ad irondack hiker who makes the trip up from Staten Island several times a year. welcomes the restrictions “It makes sense to me,” Eld ridge said. “We've all watched a lot of deterioration the last few years. Something has to be done. Its sad, but it can work. “Ive hiked out west in New Mexico, Colorado and Utah and they have regulations and they seem to work. It’s about timeit cameout east. My only concern is that the state is going to come up with moneyfor enforcement. You can makeall these rules unless youcanenforce them its not going to work. Eldridge avoids hiking popular mountains in the summer, and when he does hike he stays off the marked trails. ‘A few years ago I decided | won't go near Mount Marcy in the summer, You see things that re ally upset you people going crazy with hatchets and chopping down small trees for firewood. letting their dogs run through other peoples campsites and mud. accommodates 3,473 passengers. Our sailing carried 3,306. As for the ship and its itinerary, I’ve decided there’s some. thing sadistic about putting a sel this size on a brief itinerary particularly for those of us who are topographically challenged You spend most of yourtimelost aboard the ship. Herearejust a few examples of how Triumph’s amplitude af. fected passengers Mi PassengerNo. 1 to Passenger No. both mullingover a fold-out deck plan: “Oh, don’t bother look ing at that map. Youstill won't be able to find your way around.” Don't toss away that map, though; it’s your only lifeline. OK, you won't die without it like that foolhardy kid in “The Blair Witch Project” but you maynot surface for hours. (Hint: Deck group. I shouldn't have chuckled. I find my husband, whom | was supposed to meet in the food court's NewYork-style deli. Even a Carnival staff member was too flummoxed to help. Maybe he misunderstood myquestion, but he first directed me five decks down midship near the casino. Then | asked him wherein this vast multista . that Thanks, In such disorientaaren't just a disadvantageof abig ship. On newships, ev seemstosniff out every noo! anny, like kittens tr make their way around in a new home. Bythe time I located my hus band, healready had downed his New York-style corned beef sandwich “Howwas it?” I asked, antici- pating a thumb’s up becauseCar: nival’s food usually exceeds ex- pectations. Because we were docked in NewYork, he nodded toward thecity skyline and said he wished he had ordered out instead. Infact, Triumph’s food was less thanstellar, althoughat lunch one day, I had a delicious pan-fried fi takes place on three decks aie about a rounding the seven-deck atrium.) dearth of doings aboard. To their WI saw a womanwandering in the sprawling two-deck Lido credit, Carnival passengers know most of Triumph’s indooract let of King Clip Nicoise. Whatever else you might say Carnival ship,there's no subdued ship I found myse ing those customaryFare sons and clever architectural de tails. Without them, Triumph is more than merelytoned down, it's downright lackluster. Apparent ly, Farcus’ gift is forglitz. welcomeassist to the disorga- nized among us. It listed dozens of daily events chronologically. Carnival packs a lot intoa short cruise. Our sailing included two Farcusdesigns ah ship witha theme. Someoneat Carnival must have a wonderful senseof irony, sea days during which tofind our wayaround . er, enjoyed the ship. And we spent a lovelyday in because Triumph’s themehonors. great cities of the world not one of which it sails to. Moreover, the Halifax. Despite Triumph’s colossal passenger acity, there never design elements carrying this really werelines, except for food theme throughout the public in the indoor/outdoorlido restau- spacesare too subtletonotice. Amongthe nicest public rooms: the Vienna Bar for specialtycof rants, The indoor cafeteria-style area becomes Triumph’'salternative eateryat night. We ate there one evening andfound it and the food wanting. Crew members were vacuuming underfoot while weate; no bar waiter was on duty to take oursoft drink order, and fees and pastries, and its neigh: boring California wine bar, offer- ing nearly two dozenwinesbythe glass. The Big Easy piano bar is awash in realoystershells. which Farcus acquiredfrom a Louisiana restaurant. Triumph’s atriumbar the room's garish lightinglent it the ambiencecfa used-carlot. Big as it is, Triumphfelt crowded and compressed. Perhapsto cut downits vast volume, offers live classical music concerts, as doesthe Oxfordlounge at chopped up withno organic traffic -sized theater was among the bestI've everseen, with nary 4 designers went overboardto make it “intimate.” The result: It feels ime entertainment in the flow. featherin sight andlots of style After completing its New York/Maritime Canada schedule, If you planto sail the Triumph, Triumphwill be repositioned to Miami for year-round seven-day Caribbean sailings. Personally, 1 think sailing the ship in the Caribbean might be tough. Although ‘Triumph haslots of outdoor deck space,it is a very interior-focused ship, dark and with mostly no views ofthesea. Hint: At open-seating break- here's what youragent might not teil you: No specialty coffees are included in the price of your cruise. And except at meals and by room service, you even pay for regular coffee at any bar. BYOA— bring your own amejii ties. Carnival does not include amenitie such as shainpvo aiid nin its standard cabins. iumph offers incredible value: Brochureratesfor its four fast, opt for the secondlevelof the Paris dining room; it hastables for two, and much morenaturallight. The ship's enclosed feeling is ses start at $699, including howto have a good time. At 2 p.m Professionally Escorjed Motorcoach Tours LAS VEGAS HOTELS ere's Encore Tours &-Travel 966-4242 or Mt1°1YG Sober er 2122 W. 5400'S aera Canes HAWAIIAN ADVENTURE Nov. 16-Nov. 23, 1999 MEXICAN RIVIERA Jan. 23-30 Feb. 20-27 Mar. 5-12, Mar 15-25 AOUTETeeTe FREE GRAND CANYON OR HOOVER DAMTOUR! Winnre ReseRvanion EOS AUTUMN IN THE OZARKS Sept. 21-26 Ue aechy aS STC MUSIC USA Oct. 14-23 Includes Nashville & Dollywood CHRISTMAS TREASURES Noy. 9-14 OZARK MT. CHRISTMAS Nov. 30-Dec. 5 eewall= YEAR dying streams. “Casino Caravons put my mind at ease and m life back in motion.*” Your 7-D, AY VACATION INCLUDES: * Three or four-day stay at a selected Walt Disney World» Resort hotel © Untimit led admission” during resort stay to WoDI R ADULT from Ogden to Sandy CRUISEONE A geval way 1 make new friends! SLC 801-685-9311 1-800-876-5825 www.casinocaravans.com ned Hoffmann Group st Jordan / Murray sightseeing, Grand Ramada Hotel & much more! Pe a ey ee Cr setSeni wnt 611, Dee 8-13, 1999 8 Day BRANSON with NAUVOO, HANNIBAL & ST, aeee 1999 WESTERN CARIBBEAN CRUISE on smoke free “CAR January 15-23, 2000, 9 Exciting Days, 5 Ports of Call MierDae Grand Cayman, Cozumel, Playa del Carmen! Free Miami Hotel! 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Book before Sept. 30, Tn EL) Sean) CHR AVANS “4 41 In Cruising, Nationwide Call a LocalIndependent Cruise Specialist BRANSON NEW YEAR” Ltt AY MESQUITE $15.00 koUND TRIF p-back & ford discounts provided ) Hoonry my Seeresnnn $0, 1999 nhs Celebrating Millennium 2000 Dec. 29, 1999-Jan. 2, 2000! 5 funfilled days! aSeeMuaaTad DU a Ome WHAT'S by Ww departures twice daily ee beUaeela 9 VALUE FOR YOUR MONEY ON EVERY BRANSON TOUR! $115.00 WENDOVER BUSES ATE LINE & SILVER Smrru Casinos all Walt Disney World» Theme Parks Water P Parks & more or fourdday Disney Cruise Line cruise to The Bahamas and Disney's private island paradis , Castaway Gay © Three 6 Day"BRANSON CHRISTMAS" Dec “Snug Harbor.” Appar. numbers are woven into thecarpet outside each elevator, i pp CRUISE LINE ee ot Triumph’ s daily program was a tensign, like those limodriv many other ships would you hear get there. With all cabins full, the 101,000-ton, 14-story-tall Triumph the forest from the fire ring and protect trees from being stripped for firewood. The lean-to has been part of the restaurant holding up a hand- lated his decorating excesses. Well, nowhe’s damnedif hedi and damnedif he doesn’t. On this already wasfully populated. And was nonstop from there. awaiting clients at an airport whether she might needataxi to crowdsare not thinnedout Campfires will be banned around Mount Marcyto protect on departure day — three hours before the ship left port — the pool ently, she had lost her hometown her cabin: glitz, zillions of lights and kitsch that adorn the ships he has de (Cruise and aah at ship No. 14 in the fleet. After all, that’s hardly breaking newground structs a passenger how to find Farcus hastaken his lumpsfor the signed. Buthe hassteadily modu Halifax, ci Let's faceit, it isn't easy to ooh deckthree. First, takethe elevator ‘A word about Triumph’s decor For years, interior designer Joe Mullingovera fold-out deck plan =e Highway. The newest in Carni On the other hand, on not too gauge by which totell even in which direction the ship is sailing. Passenger No. 1 to Passenger No. 2 stuck out even above the skyscraper-cluttered landscape along Manhattan's West Side umph wassailing a series of round-trip cruises from the Big Apple. My husband and I were headed for its: four-day jaunt to one reason you easily lose your wayor never find it: There's na “Oh, don't botherlooking at that map. You still won’t be able to find your way around.” red, whit bluefantail, signature of Carnival Cruise Lines. Triumph’s soaring smokestack when trailhead lots are filled Hikerswill be requiredto carry a Sunday, September19, 1999 \ezs) EPRUKRee 48 Years Arranging Your Le ee te iedaL EXPLORE CHINA 4 and Oct. 14 for 11 Fearn 8 righ re River Crhe plus Beying an nghal. Tour pack Includes fight on United Airlines from SUL; mont mest it Clans hotels, and sightseeing Only $1960 pp. dv oc BIG BAND- +B night departures 10°5-11/16 or 11700-1214 + Suoject to avadabity at time of reservation *+ Round trp atare Salt Lake/onokty * Depart each Tuesdayfrom SLC + Return Ms * 6 NIGHT PACKAGE« + 6 NIGHT PACKAGE + 2479 6 raghts at the Ocean Resor ve 4 tor departures tru 1 1/16 or 100-12"14 black out dates apply + Round trp artare trom SLC to Honciay Taneuteesand Wransters are additonal + Gutyect to availabilty at tne of reservation Prices per parton, quad occupancy four people musi share same room + Graghts ot the Mau Pare Vale for departures Hokday black out dates apply + Round trp aitare from SLC lo Hono Tarostoes and vanslers are addtional + Subject to avadabty at me of reservation Featuring: Glenn Miller Orchestra Departing Dec. 4 Cruise the Western Caribbean from Ft. auderdale round tip on the MS Ryndam, Package Includes port charges. Alr is additional From $799 ISRAEL -A JOURNEY OF A LIFETIME $2,200 Departing Oct for 19 educational Abus spins revesting of wwe Oxd & Tettament ight exptor Jesus, Explained by hincrian & Weersed larsed guide. ine Mt setRevass eee 7 mous daily. Excorted by Johny Oubols. Group une 26. MurdockTravel CarlsonWagonlit ve PRINCESS CRUISES} AFRICAN EXPLORER Jaenaary & ad Mand 14 tor 25 days CrafemAnare wC cv Athens Tunedta, eranWatt msaay Namimete (apetows Dakar, Abidjan, Accra Ghana, Lome From $2999 incudes cruise & port charges Air additional ‘ yaaa paue ea wien ft 3 -MORRIs. Teavel |