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Show F13 Chart House: DAILY SPECIAL by Donna L. Barstow , (5 VintageSite, a Modern Fare An Odd Mix A special-occasion dinner brings with it certain expectations: Great food, expert service andinviting ambience. Whenany of those components is missing, the whole evening is out ofkilter. So it was during a Kevin Kline and Glenn Close reunite with ‘hele old college pals in “The Big Chill.” recentvisit to the Chart Housein ‘Big Chil? Still Hot, Even Without Costner “Qurspecials today include a hug from the cook." the historic Devereaux Mansion on the groundsof Salt Lake City’s Triad Center. The Chart Houseis a restaurant BYJOHN YOUNGRE! DINING OUT The Chart House chain known mostly for steaks and seafood. It does a brisk busi- SPECIAL TO THE TRIBUNE The big news about “The Big Chill,” marking its 15th anniver- this month with a new collecideo edition: Kevin Costner still isn’t it. As “Chill” fans know, that’s a bulletin. A then-unknown Costner filmed at least one fiashback seene as Alex (the character whosesuicide brings his groupof is Outstanding B Worthyeffort ¥ -So-so Grom 54 (R) Dance With Me friends together years after college) for the 1984 theatrical release. But Costner, who would go on to stardom in “Bull Durham,” JFK"’ and ‘Dances With Wolves,” was famously trimmed. Producers had hinted that the Alex scene” (in which Costneris shown in flashback with co-stars Tom Berenger, Glenn Close, Jeff | | | Goldblum, William Hurt, Kevin Kline, Mary Kay Place and JoBeth Williams) might be part of the special 25-minute “featur- | \2 | 5 | {2 ? 8 (Se 183 \F |e 2 2 |» 8/6 |e Salez ldo 2 | i ide /23| =8 o 2uhH BSISBIEE| & | CCvVEV viv vives ivaviv video for years.) and present-day interviews with the cast. That doesn’t mean that the 15th-anniversary release isn’t worth a look, particularly for fans of the film —a literate, characterdriven groundbreakerthat would influencea variety of pop cultural works (including TV’s “thirtyso- mething” and “Friends’’). The movie has beendigitally re- mastered and remixed in stereo day comments from its all-star }, cast proveinsightful. Perhaps moreinteresting is the way “TheBig Chill's” harsh storyline holds its own. Fifteen years later, it may be an even moreefbefective theme at the tail-end of Mansion is nota light and lively place — it is full of dark wood and ornate, overstuffed furniture Thelight and music are subdued. It has the feel of a more formal when our server arrived with a different vintage. It was one of Whenthefood arrived, some of to order and zesty with crunchy (viv 66 Kk KRT rive before the food. Starters range from a steamed artichoke ($4.95, available when the callow ‘90s. Writer-director Lawrence Kasdan’s talky, self- Other deleted scenes shownafter the main feature include sev- consciousstyle proves perfect for this timeless tale of lost innocence eral from just outside the church andidealism. before Alex’s funeral and a long sequenceat the graveside, where Kline, Close, Hurt and Goldblum have had their moments in subsequent films, but never has there been a marriage of cast and characters like “The Big Chill.” It's amusing, even alarming, to reflect on the work of each of the actors involved upon seeing them again in this 1984 film (Costner, for the record, is seen only in the opening titles, when his sealp and arms represent thedead Alex). each of the principal characters illustrate some of that fun, ineluding the famous “Ain't Too Proud to Beg” kitchen clean-up without the music, an example of how dif- the beginning,” Kline's character saysof his dead friend, very early in the film. “Now he brings us together again.” Costnerstill may not appear on screen. But his character's impact The extra scenes Kasdan does ficult the movie was to choreograph (no modern film better matched its action and emotion contributes a shovel of dirt Still, the real joy in viewing “The Big Chill” again is appreciating its human moments: the squeak of Hurt's Porsche as he rumbles up to the church; the pop ofall those headlights as they join the funeral procession; the universal themesof loyalty and reflection, no matter your age or your perspective. “Alex drew us together from still sparks “The Big Chill,” some 15 yearslater. with its score). AND OPENING OF OUR Caweo Warm breathable leather —, pret that camewith the steak. One suggestion: Give the presentation a eggs and sausage or bacon. All parsley sprinkled edgeof the plate. around Therack of lamb ($24.95) was a better choice thanthefilet. It was tender and perfectly cooked. Among other Chart House entree choices are herb-crusted Other Foodstuff items as grilled shrimp, salmon, ahi andlobstertail. The children’s menufeaturessmaller portions of three entrees: grilled sirloin ($8.95), teriyaki chicken breast ($7.95) and the coconut shrimp ($9.95). The Chart Househasa finecellar of mostly domestic wines. But beware: The winelist may not be current. We discovered the vin- LUO’S VILLAGE Lakota is at 380 W. 200 South, 519-8300. M@Pifion Market and Cafe has moved into new, more spacious digs. This charming deli features homemade pastries, a different pizza every Friday, sandwiches, salads and a daily hot entree. The cafe's new addressis 2095 E. 1300 South, 582-4539. the tard and plum — are served on the side. The classic and creamy eral steaks, a rack of lamb, two chicken dishes and such seafood itemson the brunch menuare$8. little more thought than chopped served with drawn butter ($31.95). New England chowderis full of eggs, smoked salmon and brie cream sauce; huevos rancheros and homemadefrenchtoast with chicken, served with mustard potato and celery chunks and has a smooth, clammyflavor. Entrees include primerib, sev- tato waffle with two poached as was the rich, red wine sauce large, golden brownand slightly sweet. Two sauces — honey mus- @ Takeout: No Child's Menu:Yes steak that was tender was cooked in season) to coconut crunchy shrimp ($9.50) and clam chowder ($4.95). Only four shrimp comein the appetizer order, but they are @ Liquor: Full bar, wine pepper steak, for example, was peppercorns. And the garlic mashed potatoes were delicious, KK @ Credit Cards: All major it was underwhelming. Part of the But the menu is modernsteakhouse, from the prime rib to the king crab legs. Entrees include a salad (green or caesar) and your choiceof rice pilaf, baked potato or garlic mashed potatoes. A basket of quality breadis also part of the meal, although it may not ar- eee kkk {a vigigi*xk) vG¢@ kik Bik kK not heard and people went to bed early because lampoil was expen- Yes gristly and tough, a disappointment considering the filet was priced at $25.95. The part of the sive. OutotSigit (PG) Return to Paradise (R) The Avengers (PG-13) The Truman Show (PG-13) ve Prices: Expensive @& Wheelchair Access: which was the paceof theservice. It was slow, not leisurely, and it didn't look as if too manydiners was thereason Mafia! (PG-13) i@evvay. Reservations: Yes out the evening, not the least of time, when children wereseen but Jan. 26: Rush Hour — that crop of '60ssingles never sounded better — and present- several irritating lapses through- How Stella ... (A) liviveuvial vie Love and Death... (PG-13)| [Hk [3 | a8 | maki Future video releases: ette” included on the 15th-anni- Instead, those extra 25 minutes feature a few other deleted scenes tage we ordered wasnotavailable ter. And its quaint look makes it a popular destination during Christmas,as well. But historic buildings have their limitations. The Devereaux | versary video edition of “The Big Chill,” but no such luck. (The movie has been available on home ness during basketball season, when the Utah Jazz are playing across thestreet at the Delta Cen- ary @ 334 W. South Temple, 596-0990 @ Hours: Monday through Saturday, 5-9:30 p.m sauce ($16.95), and crab legs Anne Wilsonis The Tribune's restaurant reviewer. The newspaper covers the cost of meals atrestaurants reviewed and there is no connection between reviews and Oo MLakota, a private club in downtownSalt LakeCity, recent restaurant advertising. Wilson welcomes food and wine news, ly began offering Saturday and comments and suggestions at Sunday brunch,from 11 a.m. to 4 awilson@sltrib.com or by mail, p.m. The menuincludes such spe- c/o Salt Lake Tribune, P.O. 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