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Show D15 Il Capriccio’C S hef ll Capriccio 2263 E. Brings Subtle Flavors Of Tuscany to Utah DINING OUT laday (lunch), 5:30-10 p.m. (dinner). Dinner hours extend to 10:30 p.m. Saturday. @ Liquor: Wine and beer, a fewaperitifs and tomatoes and delicate, the gnocchi(tiny po- after-dinner liqueurs. tato dumplings) are rich and chew; Micheli, who has been in the layered from Naples, sprinkled with basil and drizzled with localolive oil. Next, you savor a plate of fresh- Ac- W Prices: $$ to $$$ Imagine sitting down to a sum- with fresh buffalo mozzarella Friday and @ Reservations: cepted SPECIAL TO THE TRIBUNE vine-ripened Lake day, 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m BY VIRGINIA RAINEY mer meal in the Italian town of Forte dei Marmi, about 50 miles from the Tuscan seaside. The food is deceptively simple. Perhapsit’s a plate of sliced, Murray-Hol- Road, Salt City, 277-8080 Hours: Tuesday-Sun- @ Wheelchair Access: es, @ Credit Cards:All ma- United States for several years, may be familiar to the many fans of Michelangelo, another outstanding and authentic Italian restaurant in the Sugar House jorcards accepted Pluses: Authentic, re finedItalian foodin an un pretentious setting. First- area of Salt Lake. He worked with olive oil, garlic and rosemary. Onthe side, cubed potatoes perfectly roasted to a crisp and a closely with Michelangelo's chefs and owners whenthat restaurant broke new ground in Salt Lake a few years ago, struggled, and then rate ingredients, seasonal changes, charming owner and staff. serving of broccoli rabe or sau- finally gained astellar reputation and devoted following. rior could be more invit- grilled fish, ever-so-lightly kissed téed spinach, Because the ingredients are lo- Minuses: Building exteing Nowon his own, Micheli works Price Range: ($) Inexpensive: entrees with a loyal crew that followed cal and of the highest quality, and because it is prepared with re- him to Salt Lake from Los Ange- straint and finesse, this is a memorable meal. Before yousigh with envy be- under $7 ($$) Moderate: $7-$14 les, where he spent a few years opening several Italian restaurants for a corporate group. He ($$$) Expensive: $15- took overthe old Corey Anderson Pies building on Murray-Holladay Boulevard, put up his family crest on a sort of 1960s-looking cause you're just not going to makeit to Italy this summer, you might want to booka tabie at Il Capriccio, one of Salt Lake's newest and best Italian restaurants. Because at Il Capriccio, ($$$$) Very Expensive: Morethan $20 outdoor sign, and opened for business in February. The dull This is all from the summer menu. In thefall, we can look for- brown building and its shabby exterior are really the only unappealing elementsof Il Capriccio. you're as close as you can get to the cooking style of Forte dei Marmiin these parts. That's the hometown of owner PierAntonio Micheli, and the food he servesis as deceptively simple and divinely deliciousasit can be. wardto osso bucco, creamyrisot- to, lamb shanks, and much more Somefresh flowers in the flower boxes and a paint job would spiff in the way of heartier, more lusty fare. it up considerably, but of course The wine selection is limited, but Micheli is just starting out and will no doubt be adding and refin- it's what's inside that counts, The interior is plain and simple — His classic menu (including the nothing flashy, nothing that distracts from the focus on good food and graciousservice. It is quiet mealdescribed above)is based on the cornerstonesof simple, yet refined Italian cooking. Among many seasonalitems and some im- ing as he goes along and finds out what works, For now, stick with the Italian offerings, but if you and soothing, too — with retro are a trueItalian wineaficionado, lounge tunesplaying softly in the evening’s menu, It’s not easy to choose among all the offerings, but here are some highlights from a recent meal: Carpaccio ($10)is a classic appetizer you only want to order flaged with creamsauces, gravies or excessive seasonings, But here and there, he and his sous chef, Alberto Granatos, will conjure a light white wine or marsala sauce, from a chef you trust, and you can a savory orange or lemon sauce, or perhapsa sprinkling of capers and oregano with the beef. The serve the finest-quality, paperthin slices of raw filet mignon, trust Micheli and Granato’s. They lightly garnished with arugula,olive oil and large sheets of thin- light, the texture almost buttery. Share it with a couple of friends so that you canalsotry the incred- samic dressing. All of the pastas look good, but the ravioli di spinaci burro esalvia, spinach ravioli with butter and sage ($9), is especially wonderful. The ravioli are so thin you can practically see through them, gostine al Capriccio ($24), sautéed ingarlic and olive oil with arugula in a light white wine sauce, or the grilled langostine ($22). These pine ($16) is classic, light and bottle A note on the restaurant name Micheli’s first choice was Pane e Vino (bread and wine), but under Utah’s unusual liquor laws, hegot his hands slapped for using that sweetshellfish arrivein a dramat- “Vino” word. So he chose Il Ca- and each bite melts in your ic presentation — split open with their long antennae anddarklittle eyes intact. Bello! Veal scallop- Thetricolore salad ($6.50) is a mouth, Again, this dish, with its judicious use of unsalted butter and pinch of sage, is an example of the level of expertise and au- tender, and the cubed, roasted potatoes and spinach on the side are as good as the main dish. The priccio, which, loosely translated, means a whim” or “fulfilling a dream.” Since Micheli says one of his dreams is “Just to make people happy with my food,” it refreshing combination of chopped radicchio and endive with spicy arugula in a light bal- If youlove shrimp, try the lan- ible Caprese ($8.50) salad. You see this combination everywhere these days, but you rarely taste the real thing, composed of sliced tomatoes, fresh basil and the creamy, mellow buffalo mozzarella Micheli brings in from Naples. — = turned out to be an excellent choice. samegoes for the stripedbassfi- thentic Italian sensibilities at workin the kitchen. = house-made pastas are ethereal shaved parmesan. The flavor is a herbs, balsamic vinegar and extra-virgin olive oil. True to Tuscan style, dishes are not camou- you might want to take your own Chef PierAntonio Micheli prepares langostine al Capriccio, a favorite dish atIl Capriccio. = and salmon. Tenderveal, chicken and beef dishes are embellished with the indispensable Tuscan staples of tomatoes, garlic, fresh An overview of the printed menuwill give an ideaof the quality of cooking at Il Capriccio, but remember that Micheli also adds several seasonal specials to each — —= background, = ported specialties, it includes a great selection of fresh fish — from langostine to stripped bass let grilled with rosemary and ex- tra-virgin olive oil ($18). Virginia Rainey is The Tri bune’s restaurant reviewer. TournamentRuns July 31- August 2 Team Name ( Up to 15 characters ) Team Gender (Check one) J Male 1 Female Contact Person How did You hear about Tile Crown Basketball? 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