Show Written tor for this thil Paper FROM SOUTHAMPTON TO CAPE CAPE TOWN The All ashore bell had rung for forthe forthe forthe the last time and gathered upon the deck of the stately Union liner Tro Tro- Trojan Trojan Trojan jan was a forlorn damp group of some two or three hundred passengers bound for the Ophir of the nineteenth century and as we stood and waved our handkerchiefs to our dear ones we had left upon the fast receding dock the very very clouds wept in sympathy As soon as the old Trojan had parted with her accompanying tugs she settled down to business and steamed down Southampton water at a lively rate Darkness coming down and shut shutting ting out the sight of the tight little isle save for tor an occasional light on onshore onshore onshore shore we began to cultivate each others other's acquaintance and speculate on the kind of people we were to be penned up with for the next three weeks Yes there was the usual crowd the interesting young lady and her mamma tra traveling for their health the blase trotter globe trotter twenty or thirty young scions scions from college going out to make their fortune dont cher know sev sev- several several several eral returning miners a sprinkling of fledged newly fledged civil engineers very drunk with a few ditto Of course we had all been on voyages before Everyone with a big pipe and anda a knowing air promenaded the hurri hurri- hurricane cane deck deckas as if for a wager the air be being ng filled with remarks as to there being dirty weather on the lee pers pers Ders doing twenty knots lets let's go aft etc etc Ere long a mysteriously sweet calm seemed to pervade the atmosphere and pipes were laid aside I dont don't know what became of the rest I was so taken with my own reflections somehow or other I felt as though my diet had con con- consisted consisted con mainly of pork chops for the last two weeks with a dish of ol strawberries and ice cream thrown in Why will steamship boys invariably feed their patrons on pork chops the first day out Feeling that unless I acted speedily those aforesaid chops would gain gain the mastery I sought my state room below Pandemonium reigned supreme above the steady beat of the machinery on all sides could be heard as I passes along the gangway electric call bells sup sup- supplemented supplemented supplemented with feeble cries of stew ard whilst those coated blue gentry scuffled around with most horribly sug sug- suggestive suggestive suggestive utensils in their hands I reached No 76 safely I was in ina ina ina a kind of hurry so assisted by a sudden roll of the ship I landed gracefully into my cabin on all fours the man in the lower berth facetiously remarking Mind the step There are some men who will joke if going to a funeral and H was one of them and as he lay in his berth sandwiching a joke between each groan I could not n t help but feet feel strongly drawn towards him We were fast chums in no time and aDd half an hour after my novel Dovel intrusion we were break break- breaking breaking ing the rules by lying in our bunks smoking and swapping confidences H was going going out to serve five years in io the Cape mounted d rifles just for the fun of it you know and when not oot too fatigued after along a long loog days day's patrol might go out before breakfast with a bu and pick up a few diamonds as a s 5 issue We lay and talked over plans until I dropped off to sleep lit dreaming that after knocking aro the world I would eventually c anchor in Utah as a Latter-day Latter Saint I woke up next morning with machinery stopped and looking out the port hole saw Plymouth and Mo Edg Edgecombe combe across the water and v pretty the town looked in the mor sun We lay riding at anchor wait waif for the mail and passengers for a cou of hours and then dropping the pi we said good-bye good to old England headed straight for lor the Bay of Bis The bay was in in splendid training c the commissariat was give rest and the amount of solids parta of by the entire ship load of ot would not have kept a decent s 5 chicken r ranch for a week Sun mornings morning's inspection revealed the c creland and stewards to be a fine lot of men they dedin drew up in a double line on d din din in their dress uniforms and bare it f swaying s in perfect unison to the roll roll- roll the vessel S Sunday service on board is quite impressive scene Around the sides the saloon are ranged the crew stewards The hearty way they the responses is only equalled by lusty way they swore an hour later in In the center are grouped ships ship's officers and passengers in a m mor mor moor or less faded condition At the h hof hof of the saloon stands the captain gt table covered with the Union Jack the necessary Bible and prayer b upon it He reads the lesson for day and the congregation help himon himon him on the responses The hymn was a h hing hing hd ing failure The young lady pianist 1 a time of her own when she w engaged balancing herself upon stool The crew ran a very heavy position whilst the passengers carob came with a feeble scattering volley till that point we had felt very s sand sand and religious Just in front of H HI HalI I sat a very dignified old gentle gentl in a large easy leather chair H 11 Uno no more sense than to displace aThe aThe a The effect was electrifying the gave a long sickening roll with wItha a p panto to it and away went the chair chait and occupant careened off the lady pi pito pito to a table and from thence bore db with evil int intentions upon the first first Neptune saved the engin engine life Ide for with a roll to starboard the gent shot over the back of the under a table the chair was its former occupant pushed from rom u uthe uthe the table and peace once more stored By the time we reached the m rm of the Tagus the head winds abated and we were beginning toI toa toa to a solid diet once more and oh ob how bow I did make up for lost time The scenery was grand and for three we steamed up the Tagus with an e changing panorama panorama ot of vineyards tIes and monasteries nestling am wooded hills spread out on either of us When within sight of Lis small boat pulled pulled- alongside of us the quarantine and customs o 0 stepped on board Neither of i was five feet high but how they swell themselves I could hardly that those two little swarthy f fe with their fierce bustling mu were only public officials and not Dot l of f Portugal and his prime Mister After showing a clean bill biD of health we were graciously Mowed to proceed on our way and within half an hour were rid rid- rid riding d ing at anchor oft off on the historical city ot of Lisbon There was a great scramble And after haggling with and beating the boatmen down per cent we pulled oft off in boat loads of twenty for a five hours run on shore The first three hours the young bloods owned the town the subsequent hour being spent in dodging and persuading Lisbon with many prayers and cold cash not to own Ithem them After getting sickened at a bull fight I went on a tour of discovery What a quaint old city Lisbon with its narrow streets gaudily painted houses public squares crowded with peddlers and beg beggars ars oxen drawing carts with solid wooden wheels loaded with wine porters with terrible loads on their backs and every everyone one smoking the everlasting cigarette One ne street in particular attracted my at- at attention at attention it being a long street ah almost ost entirely composed of jewelers stO stoves es The Portuguese ladies are very pretty and petite and smile upon one with tI those wondrous black eyes in a way that soon made one realize why so many jewelery stores were necessary Th The Portuguese struck me as being a very free and going easy people and cigar cigar- cigarettes cigarettes ettes seem to be their only manufacture manufacture manufacture- A locomotive I saw bore a German h firms firm's name ame Their drugs were manu manu- lectured in England and France and even eveD the grating outside outside- the store was east in England When they dont don't use t A sharpened stick for lor a plough I was in inh in- in informed 10 h formed ed they use the American one every wane me del deland and so they give us all alla alia a show j D Their ear coinage consists of copper twenty Leis teis pieces mostly which are equal to bout about two cents It is quite a shock for forone to stroll into a store and buy a aa a tp le of handkerchiefs and a tie and find find the bill foots toots up 1000 O reis But I Iguess guess one can get used to it Our res res- restaurant bill for five of us came to t t iJ We gave ave him an English gold f r So in despair and lot lo we re re- re 7 ved enough change to start store Jt epi g We left quaint old Lisbon with many regrets that we could not stay longer 1 ad once more were out on the bound bound- 11 C ocean The next evening the sec sec- sec v nd saloon gave a very creditable show followed the evening with dance the deck a on quarter the first saloon the ball room being being t- t 7 effectively gotten with flags and i d tr r cry ery up colored lured lanterns hung around the bul- bul bus bulks bul ks arks s Of or course we had the inevitable y yr r teut theatricals and for five or six f s we we e were bundled unceremoniously f und nd the ship to make room for re- re reals re als One could pick out the comat com- com the l aay at a glance That pained exon exon ex- ex exp p SMon on on of countenance those ever everE fig g lips together with a manuscript Sat never left their hand denoted that j deadly diy stage fever was amongst us wr d be dozing comfortably over overbook overbook ti book ok dreaming maybe of home and dear to be rudely called back backi i arth rth nh or rather later with a blood blood- blood A fling g vo voice voice ce sayin saying J I will defend this if e with me lifes life's lifes life's blood Of t- t te e we we all l attended t the e performance voted d it a great histrionic hit The Ther x r t t Weekly devoted two columns of off f le Ie criticism to the effort Yes f 1 liven Ven ran a paper on board if it was 3 V r J r 1 r fr T r l I qc 1 Jr only manuscript it was racy and well edited This is a sample of one of the advertisements Just out a new work on hygiene How to sl sleep ep in the Tro Tro- Tropics Tropics Tropics with your clothes on The sign ot of the dirty fellow state stale room 24 Then Then- Then again we were entertained with witha a mock trial in which genuine lawyers participated the defendant defendant being a ayoung ayoung ayoung young lieutenant of the British army with a weakness for the gentle sex on trial for breach of promise the cross cross- examination cross examination of ot the plaintiff bringing down the house On the fifth day we sighted land once more and dodged in and out amongst bare desolate looking islands Soon there appeared a small cloud on the horizon which grew big bigger er and grad grad- gradually gradually gradually took the form of a large island Then we knew we were approaching the far famed Madeira the land of wives the Mecca of the wealthy con con- consumptives con higher and higher it rose out of the ocean a beautiful green moun moun- mountain moun mountain tain with snow covered summit little white houses nestling amongst the foliage the whole forming a picture never to be forgotten As we approach approach- approached ed the principal city Funchal hundreds of small boats put off from the shore and ana old pirate stories t tan an riot in my brain as the boat loads of swearing perspiring raced for the ships Pirates are a mere circumstance to these fruit parrot wicker-ware wicker embroidery and jewelry peddlers They swarmed up upI the sides and took possession in three I minutes the deck ot of the steamer was one huge bazar every man with his brother to bilk the unsophisticated unsophisticated stranger Every one has heard of the Madeira diving boys How they do fight and scramble under water for any coin thrown to them and then bob up p serenely and ask for more Any of them will under the ship for a shilling and when they have to dive down two twenty-two feet clear the ship and come tip lip p about feet from where they started blow the water from their nostrils and throw you in a sweet seductive smile gratis one thinks they have earned the money We layoff lay off Funchal six hours coaling consequently there was a huge scramble to get ashore ashore On landing on the beach amidst the surf and screams of the ladies where were the hacks There were none for the simple reason the streets resemble the roots of houses only not quite as smooth We had the chance of oxen drawing or ham ham- hammocks hammocks hammocks mocks swung on poles with ith a sweating Portuguese at each end All the young men chartered the hammocks the girls wouldn't look at them and then began a mad race up town How the bearers managed to keep their feet was a I mystery to me for the streets save the mark fare are all paved with beautiful round cobble rocks I would cheerfully wear tight shoes all day before I would I promenade Madeira avenues in their soled shoes for a single hour We visited the cathedrals stores prison and other cheerful places and at last landed at the European hotel where we found several people who could talk English the guide said aid he could but buthe buthe buthe he lied The proprietor Mr Jones from Wales I believe put us up a splendid luncheon and the way we played havoc with the brought tears into the eyes of the consumptive boarders On returning to the ship the boat boat- men laid on their oars and flatly refused to put us on board until an ex- ex extra extra ex extra tra toll of sixpence per capita had been paid we argued and threatened to no avail One of our boys produced a ai I gun and the four boatmen handled about 30 feet teet of cold steel Finally with a little gentle persuasion the sons of Portugal voted it a good joke and handed us over to the captains captain's keeping once more We left Madeira with much sorrow and little loose change and steamed out with our old friends the albatrosses and flying fish again The majority on onboard onboard onboard board seemed to have the gambling nothing mania nothing but cards cards They say every year has its fresh crop of fools That year lear most of them were on the Trojan At the end of the voyage three men owned halt half the cash cashon cashon cashon on board and four boys landed in Cape CapeTown CapeTown CapeTown Town miles from home an over over- overcrowded overcrowded overcrowded crowded city without a red cent to their name They played all the week Sunday made no difference Ther They would bet on the run of the vesse vessel Miss Ms M's next victim which foot the steward would mount the companion first with etc Life at sea is very much like that on shore How the boys do flirt and the ladies talk scandal and split up into little cliques And so we would jog along with some new topic to break the days day's monotony I II i iI I dont don't blame Napoleon for dying on St Helena elena especially if he went up and down Jacobs Jacob's ladder with its steps like I did he had a good excuse for dying We visited the spot where he was first buried and brought away a aspray aspray aspray spray of willow from the grave Given Givena a bare rock inhabited by two or three hundred British soldiers and a few half castes a fort perched on top guns and big cannon bristling from unexpected quarters a crack running through the aforesaid rock with a little soil at the bottom bottom a few lew houses and date palms sprinkled on top of same connect the soil with the fort above by a nearly perpendicular ladder and a brassy sky and i no io in shade and shade and you have St Helena There is one grand thing about it-it it it it beats the Keeley cure for nO soldier dare get drunk and go home via the aerial route as it is fatal The sea since we had crossed the line had resembled a mill pond of a beautiful beautiful beautiful ful violet color At night under |