Show SANDWICH ISLANDS I 1 homespun and others visit kil auca and the volcano LAIE LAIB july 21 1888 editor deseret desere news newe if you put puauea kilauea in head lines to this letter leiter with the volcano in small caps I 1 am afraid nearly all your readers will skip this for the reason that ane particular spot of earth called kilauea has been as nearly written tar threadbare aubare as any one subject on this roand globe therefore we will n not ot mention our destination but just simply drive down to the wharf get on board the kinau in time to look about us a little the island steamer Lik elike pronounced lik e lik e starts at the same hour that we do we can amuse ourselves watching the motley crowd observing the quantities of that binl in 1 describable thing called style which sweeps f from rom the tall be winged hat of the tian san francisco maiden through every varying stage to the equally tall narrow crowned hat atop ot of the immensely fat native womans comans gredy greaty pers perspiring piAng face C come ome walk about our own ship our stateroom you observe is one of a luster on deck whose open door looks out at sea on every passing wave electric bells and lights every convenience even to sa an almond eyed waiter graces our quarters the deck is roomy and comfortable here is the huge skylight looking down into the engine house bouse and its polished shining metal belongings with huge brass trimmings have a charm of weir their awn to the traveling novice on towards the prow we reach the entrance to the tbt saloon a wide stairway the woodwork being polished walnut and as you are familiar doubtless with the elegant interior ot of our first class ocean steamers fite amers I 1 will merely add f urther further that this is a counterpart of those larger but no more finely appointed vessels it if we had time we would note in iki detail the bustling shifting scene As it is the horn born blows bells ring people shout and the now easy swing of the gliding vessel apprizes us of the fact that we are moving out of the bay what a delightful voyage this would be gliding ift dipping ping careening along through waves of topaz here gleaming at times like broken emeralds crowned with sets of pearl sweeping past curved laues of shore dotted with villages and groves of stately cocoanut coco anut trees what a dream of loveliness to one whose digestive apparatus is of that elastic quality that accommodates itself equally well to terra firma as to rolling waves about midnight I 1 awaken from my light doze and realize tile the constant rocking has almost ceased the moonlight pours in at my open door and window and I 1 hastily arise it is but a moment to dress and step out on deck before me stretches a long dirk line of shore white houses houge struggling up beyond the surrounding creen ot of the ocean behind great banks banks of dusky green make a shadowy background I 1 we anchor in latiauna Lati alna aina bay or rather just outside the lahaina reefs we remembered this was the spot where brother lorenzo snow came so near losing his life for this reason alone the place was lull of in interest for us the high mountains of western mauie loomed up back of the town in gloomy grandeur lights twinkled here and there along the shore silent boats came to and fro on the placid waters our crew rattled and pounded and helloed hellord to the boat ment iv in the soft liquid language of the natives the long lazy ship swayed from side to side with gentle regularity and over all the calm and lovely moonlight cast its own sweet witchery the scene entranced me and will long linger ka in my memory like a star trembling in the blue of heaven eaven changeless in the dim dawn we moored at a little town towi beyond whose rustling cottages swept up in grand outlines the walls of that wonderful house of the sun hale a kala ka la whose upper walls bathed in rosy splendor stand far above the cloud line around and below its colossal head drifts and floats a misty circlet of pale clouds ones soul is filled so full with such scenes of gorgeous beauty that like a goblet even full I 1 one added thought or spoken word elen een spills the tender fluid and tongue or pen must speak the the islands of lanai and Kaho olans lay to our windward A at noon the following day we caff ANCHOR AT on hawaii hawaii is the largest island of the group and its outlines to the southeast were dim in ia the distance while here we learned that our route would be around the koua side of the island which being the leeana consequently the dry side was a little disappointment I 1 was quite anxious to see hilo and all the smaller towns town 9 that cluster on the shores of the windward side one advantage however of this course was that by taking this direction we would escape the rough seas of the part which was exposed to the trade winds from here until we reached our stopping pla place ceat at eight next morning we were conscious of nothing but a longing desire to get once more upon land mixed with a yearning to yield up our very inward ness to the confidential receiver at the bunk side sided about 8 next morning we were told that a certain black rocky barren point was in a little while anchor was cast a boat was lowered and the purser called out eat all aboard for 11 we hurried down the steep narrow steps and watched our chance then jumped hurrah all did you ever get down from a stairway or ladder into a boat in rough gatei it if you have you know how bow the boat is now up directly under the ladder and again the ladder is away off and up in the air if yow your head or body should happen to come between the ladder and the boat seat as they come together the weaker object is sure to be crushed and as I 1 was none too sure about the requisite solidity of my venerable poll I 1 strictly observed the many warnings and pieces of advice I 1 had previously received three or four passengers followed one a large heavy man who came hurriedly down stepped quickly onto the nearest object in the boat which happening to be a chicken coop the chicks protested against such treatment whereupon issued a struggling mixture ol of splintering rails and kicking heels and voices shouting in a series of vigorous exclamations when down came the heavy ladder I 1 fortunately the gentleman had succeeded in sq twisting his head that it escaped being crushed results a ruined chicken C coop a 8 wollen swollen and bleeding eye a bruised shoulder and a chorus of consolations so at last we pull out bravely for the black rocky point of land j just ast ahead of us jump out oat en cn a huge boulder hurry hurr lover tile the rocky 1 path with a sense of relief at the firm ground beneath us enter the low shanty tor for a moments rest and a drink of water then mounting our steeds of various sizes art and colors mr pogue our guide gives the word and away we go A LAVA REGION those who have picked their slow careful way over the lava rocks of didies volcanic country will be able to form a very good idea of our road for about four miles from the sea the whole country inward la Is a comparatively level upland stretch t covered with black lagged jagged brolie broken lava rock ahead of us rises an abrupt wal wai or precipice of lava the top of which looks like a high almost level tableland whereon we see gloves of trees our little party of six headed by the guide soon became sufficiently soda die ble to discuss all sorts of topics from the gresham sherman probability to the correct pronunciation of cant two professors one the principal of the john swett grammar Gr amelar school of san francisco the other the president of the nevada state university a genitor f from rom boston and a genuine yankee school marra with ourselves and baby made a party of six the ascent of the hill was somewhat difficult and precipitous but once on top we found foun an almost level plain stretching away for miles with clusters and groves of trees and shrubs as far as the eye could reach A miles pleasant ride brought us to the half halfway way house a clean tidy little home set in a f frame aarn e of flowers and towering trees th the e simple lunch of bis biscuits cults milk and coffee taken here was thoroughly appreciated by our seasick travelers and in another half hour we were al comfortably fort ably seated in three two wheeled breaks and off again at a lively pace A long grassy road bordered with high blossoming bloss oming trees of ohia lehua great banks and beds of tau tall waving tern plumes VISTAS OF WILD loveliness at every break in the forest around us the sweet cool air of mid spring fanning out our laces faces together with the quiet excitement of expectation thrilled the nerves and senses with exquisite harmony As tor for me I 1 was watching for all this forest loveliness to cease and for our road to enter upon a bleak barren lava country much like the beach whereon we landed there did you see that A faint tuff puff of smoke curled upward away beyond the open trees surely barely now we leave the grassy road our native guide filled our cart with lovely terns the sharp sword plant great bands hands ful of scarlet abelos a berry resembling in looks the bull berr y of our utah canyon and then actually wild strawberries here on the very ver verge ge of a belch belching ing pit of fire afterwards he threw into my lap some of the most delicious ground cherries I 1 was surprised with these last familiar favorites we have completed almost a semicircle since we left the ralf half way house and as we make a sharper curve I 1 exclaim houses Hous esl surely this is not the vole volcano ano but it surely is through a big sate gate we ride on OB u up P a grassy lane bordered with a nodal nodding ros rose grahs e hedge ge of fairest pink trees an and ferns on the left cows standing about in the pasture chewing lazy cuds buds with mild eyed content and then a house wide one storied many roomed with shaven lawn and beds of riotous blooms around it flank ed by grassy hill and distant ings and corrals a huge dog with noisy welcome a waiting host grooms hurrying to and fro and we are here on t the e wide sheltered porch we turn our faces outward and there in awful inky majesty rolls twists and shines like polished glass a sea of ebony WITHIN THE HUGE CRATER A great huge round pit lies before us with its straight per perpendicular endi cular walls which often flaunt their their tufts of terns to every sulphurous breeze within this horrid hole the walls are even not jagged and broken so as jou sup P posed but like a mighty scooped out basin the blackened black enea flood has reached the sides in stilly evenness for no BO wave like dash dasa or break around its edge is visible from where we stand two miles away on the dark bosom of this lava lake are reared a chain of broken lofty hills bills and behind and about them pour oat great waves W pillars of dark smoky clouds to the right of the pit and far beyond lioums up the lofty peals of mouna monna los loa from thoai whose side at rare intervals this now living lake be below low will burst burse opt mid and plow great thoroughfares clear into the bosom of the sea miles away when this transpires ires the crater called kilauea Kilau ea is dead and silent it was about 2 when we reached this point and we are soon informed by our gena and handsome host col maby that dinner will be served at three and at four or half past the guide will be ready to take us down into the pit I 1 have talked so much of ourselves that I 1 have failed to make you at nil all acquainted quain ted with tae members of our roost most delightful party or er with col maby haby and aad his charming family yes family for you must know that here in this lovely spot we found a whole cluster of pretty dark eyed chi children adren even down to a three months old baby across the road from the gate we go through a barred gateway and at once commence our downward path the I 1 it being about feet from the top to the bottom of the pit our path is bordered with rare terns and clu clustering roses mingled with the rich blooms 0 of the scarlet nasturtiums and guarded by y tall whispering trees prof lyser is unable to continue the journey and about half way down he be decides to re turn once down we step at once on to the lagged jaggo broken lava and then on for two miles our path leads over huge boulders masses masse of twisted forms like illie coiled ropes of glossy black across great rents and seams in the mass that have no visible stopping p place aiace anon we find steam issuing from holes and seams and sometimes the rocks beneath are hot to the touch when we reach the ledge of hills bills the space between us and the mountains is full f till of SIGHTS great empty hollow cones and inky eaves caves a huigh hub yawning pit appears which two years ago contained the living massof fire are and called then shenew lake now empty black fathomless it appals appala with its vacant tween two hills bills we pick our way and at last step down into a ravine or wide winding crevice ak whose hose floor is one mass of crumbling crunching crun chine crackling recent lava oh yes I 1 am assured I 1 this is quite safe to walk upon being nearly two months old and can we go up on top of 0 it ask the adventurous ones of the guide perhaps he answers smilingly but the lava is here rather soft to soft I 1 should say etwas it was for I 1 am forced up by command and entreaty that 1 I too may look into that awful gleaming eye of hell soft I 1 sink down dowa in the thin crust sometimes bursting a bubble cavern that preel precipitates 1 I 1 me a toot foot down and horribly hoir itly near the thundering lashing roaring mass of molton molten lava dashing against its slender prison our guide daringly goes up and standing on its very apex crushes crushes in with his heavy boots great blocks of the crust which snaking making larger the narrow opening at the top go crashing down into the molten depths below I 1 turned away shuddering and at last we are all once more on n the comparative safety of the two months old flow that behind us being only a few days old going round the south side of the highest hill we begin to ascend its steep sharply broken sides halfway half way up p we step out onta the edge of a precipice which overlooks a sort of vale a hundred feet below and there in its center at least three hundred feet in circumference circumference rolls the flaming billows of THE LAKE OF OB LIVING FIRE in the center it has crusted over with a thin scum of the cooled black lava but around its edges for many feet the molten mass lashes and brets trets and foams with the wrath and terrible power of a fire are demon it to is enclosed with a ten feet high t thin hin wall or cooled crust which keeps it t from pouring out ort on the surrounding ug plane which chic plane wast wasile least eight f feet below the surface of the lake I 1 am here likewise persuaded against my fears down the face of the precipice an and after dafter many protestations up the st steep ee rocky walls of the lake itself but 0 oh it how well wed am I 1 rewarded I 1 beneath my y feet not two feet below tosses and and roars this fiery mass it leaps up high against its cave like sides and anon throws great showers of burning fire away u up in air and across the bos bosom om of el the lale lake the men with shie shielded eded faces stick their staves into the edge za and draw out chunks of the red lava that almost instantly cool to shining iridescent black coins are inserted and anele sams and faces look up from a frame of gleaming lava the wind well lor for us blows the stifling blinding CLOUDS OF sulphurous directly away from as leaving us ns in comparative safety every few minutes the slender cavernous foothold which only a few laches inches in thickness stands between us and eternity threatens to give ive way beneath the force of the dash ing 15 we tide and down the steep hill we stumble and slide in riotous |