Show I SALUBRIOUS MADEIRA I A Paradise P for O Invalids In Eternal J Clean CIO tj 2 and Silent to Rent font Rent at Prices Ab Absurdly 2 Small Making Social Calls in a n Hammock picturesque as ns this place appears at It first sight eight it Improves Imp ell on n closer CIO ser acquaint acquaintance QUAINTLY c ance Ince ono one becomes familiar with Its labyrinthine cow path Streets winding up tip hill bIll and down he be discovers many ob oh objects objects of ot Interest Inter st that mako him forget Its Us lack hack of ot architectural beauty No Nowhere Nowhere where hero else elso In tho the world Is there a city so no well built from tram the standpoint of at atthe the eternal fitness In which architectural tural art bus lias been u cn so entirely Ignored nowhere one so cleanly and prosperous where the lazy people seem to live with without without without out work The houses are alt all plain and square generally two storied stuccoed and whitewashed outside with green Breen Jalousies behind which Por Par Portuguese girls sit fanning themselves them elves and smiling at passersby Mey Maty of or orthe the buildings have queer qU er little balconies In tho the second stories where the farni families ties lies receive their evening guests their gay Portuguese chatter light laughter tongs songs and guitar music plainly audible In the street below All this combined with the extreme extrema friendliness of ot the people and the loveliest climate out outside outside side of or Paradise produces a 0 most Agreeable Impression on the stranger and anti is no doubt an Important old aid In the tho cure curo of ot invalids hundreds of at whom como come here from all parts paris of ot Europe In successful search of health If It art has accomplished hed little tittle in Funchal nature has done her best bu t to tor atone lone r for Cor the tho omission The vegetation thou tion of two zones seems Deems to be equally nt at homo home here her the palm and the pine the Iho cyprus and magnolia tho the apple and coffee tree bananas walnuts guavas elms almonds Intertwining their vari varl various arI arIcue ous cue shades of perennial verdure while corn and cane cUlle Holds lend tho the landscape tints of ot green en and ant yellow pomegranate flush the tho hillsides vines tines nod and roses clamber over every wall traIl and trel trellis trellie lis lie and lowers flowers of ot every evoly hue and spicy odor grow wild In untold profusion Tho The city of or Funchal thaws shows evidences of oC good taste as nil well as ns of at wealth and Ind comfort The central square In Portuguese occupies the mIddle of or ortho tho the main street at ono one end ond of which stands the tho quaint old tort fort with Its an nn antique tique guns anti and small peaked turrets and the other end Is terminated by an tin cathedral with altars doors and ceiling of or juniper wood beautifully by the monks of oC long ago ngo Paus Pausing ing In up this principal street from Crom the tho lauding landing under a n shady arch of ot sycamore sycamore more trees set In iii double rows on either side and through the of course f rn Co n foot you find the howls hotels nt at the farthest est eat limit of or the tho ho town on the northern slopes of or the steep hillsides By Dy the tho way you yott need fleet fear no hardships In Madeira In the way of at accommodations The hotels are many and good and their charges are aro remarkably low cal calculated calculated In tn English I money at nl the tho rate of or from tram eight to fifteen shillings a 1 day All have havo beautiful gardens attached and command glorious views of ot sea len and mountains nod and cleanliness is a car cardinal dinal dinah virtue among the Islanders You may have your our choice between the Royal nOal Edinburgh the Hotel Hor for Horto Horta ta to the Sant Sanf Ann Ana na and a dozen others o her and be disappointed In nonn none of ot them Wo We choso chose tho the first named because of or Us its homely homel sound after long wandering on the African continent It Jt turns out to be bo not halt half so Co o grand as nil Its title would lead ono one to like an l English cottage than the leading l hotel In tn o n city of It thirty thousand rest resi dents and half ns IS many transients during the northern winter wIn The Tho Roy noy Royal noyal al Edinburgh stands In the middle of ot a n big garden which like all the other Island estates Is III surrounded by b enor nor enormously InoUS thick walls wails twelve feet high and topped by nil all the glass bottles bott I which Its itA English frequenters have been emptying during luring the lant decode decade and that Is ill saying a great deal deul for Cor the quantity of ut a II glass atop The whole garden torden It is roofed with bowery trellis work overgrown with vine Ine and clematis beneath which wonderful roses bloom hlo m and cape ape jes ana nna other flowers flower perfume the air all Tho Th I Ilow low dining room with Us its wide wido open folding raIding doors overlooks a n paved courtyard extending along tho the back of or the house to the tho sea sen wall against which the Atlantic softly surg surges es eSt Tho The courtyard hike Ilka tho the garden Rarden Is a 1 perfect perr ct bower r formed by skillfully Interlacing tho the branches of ot the tho trees trues from which hang cages of oC tropical birds Bright little lash hash over oyer tho tim sunny sunn walls wilis liKe 1110 living jewels und anti wicker sticker chairs set In 11 shaded places amid clumps olum s of at f ferns rna invite the lounger This la is pot not a 11 hotel advertisement nd please understand under for tor wo we are assured that the Royal Edinburgh Is not a II bit more anOro attractive than the other inns Inna We Wo Itemize Its charms merely to show shaw what may be expected by b tho the traveler In Madeira The air Is ls simply Dimply perfect never hot bOt though eternal summer reigns r but like lIko early earl June In New England Just now is 18 the tho height of ot tho the season which begins In October and ends In May The house is crowd crowded ed Cd with English beefy cold eyed oed men who vho talk of ot Joints sang nIt alt and alt and shooting L L u u WIlli uit cum curn daughters and ant stately flat flatfooted flatfooted footed tooled spouses Every Ever boat brings fresh Crash recruits of or Invalids In and anti It Is III de tie delightful to watch the quick transform transformation Corm which takes take place tha miracle wrought upon the weakest t by this balmy atmosphere Tho The consumptive whom you see today stretched out on ona onit a it reclining chair too nearly lifeless to todo todo do tb more moro than breathe will tomorrow bo be carried about town In n a hammock the day da after aCter he will wiil try tJ sledging anti and next week you him coasting down hill hili like a n gale of wind or scam scampering I over or the heights on all donkey back cheeks a 11 tinge of at pink eyes bright but not with fever rever and and Ilna cough forgotten Hammock riding Is 18 carried to t per perfection perfection In Funchal ll You may hire one with willi Its ItA bearcat benr anywhere on the street OB ns you ou hire a n hack In a northern city The rIle hammock Is cov coy covered ered at lit ono one end with Ih a Q canopy of at pink or ot blue cambric with a 11 broad brand anti and very ver becoming of at the same name de depending pending from the tha two to edges conceal trig log or partially concealing the recumbent recumbent bent form Corm of the occupant Each Enoh hammock has Its mattress and pillows and you OU may lay be sure cure that the novel nOel cArryall Is In great grent demand In this land of laziness not only ani tor ladles ladies and Invalids but for tor great rent stout or of tho the stronger at roner sex nee Ono One often orten sees selo robust t business 1 men returning to their dinners luxuriously reclining In ham hammocks hammocks mocks rending their mall mail or evening paper as they thoy go and leaving a it trail of at smoke behind them from ruin their p cigars TIm The native ladles ladies make culls calls In hammocks anti do tie their shop shopping plug ping in tho the same name manner those of oC the tho aristocracy having servants of ot their own as bearers Foreign women fight shy hy of ot them for Cor a II time except tot foi mountain traveling until they the hare havo learned to roll In and out of them with without wIthout without out displaying too much hosiery a atrick trick which comes to perfection only with long IonS practice It la in pleasant to go out opt a lt be before before fore tore breakfast for Cor or a n troll stroll In ha the marketplace Entering the walled wailed and well wull shaded enclosure through a n great atone stono gateway al Va you iou OU ECO ace men standing behind tiny stalls anti and women squatted on the tho pavement beside enormous baskets banket of at cane while an army alm of at Itinerant merchant male anti and female clamor to sell soH you lure lace work carvings shells and corals and monstrositIes in inthe inthe the lint lino of or feather father lowers flowers of or native manufacture The roost most noticeable thing thin In the market Is tho the abundance of ot fruit of nil alt zones and seasons grapes of ot every err kind and color figs ites mangoes apples Peaches nectarines anti and oven even strawberries picked today in the Islands bushels of them bigger anti and better than Califor nias best beat Inside tho the marketplace Is l a 11 queer r In Institution very vely highly valued vAlue In III Fun Funchal I un chal viz a 1 circular building which looks looka like a n Spanish plaza de tIe toros but Is In reality a 0 circus where men nen In Instead Instead stead of ot bulls are tho the principal per performers formers There Is no theater on the Island but any show sho that comes along and colic calls Itself an In Amer ican lean circus Is warmly welcomed and UnIversally patronized Last year one that consisted only anI of half a n dozen In different acrobats and ond three trained bears held the boards hoards for Cor months and nn reaped an nn astonishingly rich harvest considering its It demerIts demerit recent experiences In and Africa the th immaculate cleanliness of at this place Dace and Its people Is la the more moru refreshing This may be owing to the efficiency of at tho IhO th city government which consists of ot a II board of seven seve aldermen and A 1 president all nil of oC whom are select selected selected ed by b popular votes but Judging from other Portuguese communities which are similarly governed we are inclined to think that the Immaculateness of ot Madeira Is U largely due to the tho Influence of ot the wealthy wealth foreigners who flock here hare for tor or health ami and naturally demand Its first nr t essential cleanliness Tho The gov got governor amer of the is appointed by b tho the king o Portugal and resides In Funchal In a 11 palace which Is built like n a military barrack with turrets anti and bastions and mullioned windows The Interior Is gloomy as a aprison prison all except the flowery court courtyard courtyard yard ard which Is li Indeed n It thing of beau beauty beauly ly ty anti and n a joy Jov oy forever The governor oral his lila gracious Krac lady Ind are arc renowned for tor hospitality which Is IB always extended to reputable strangers whither their stay ata in the city be long lon or short Ono One thing that strikes you ou In this his land hand of ot dolce far tar Is the perpetual Even In the tho heart of ot the mod modern modem ern om em city thore there Is III no rattle of ot wheels no buzz of at machinery or hum of ot whis tIe llo of oC factories t H bout About ill III n fy av v o r nOu you Ou hear are tho ho jingling tr r b bells the lie soft of i m mIn In the the tho barking of ot able ablo dogs dOgA and the tho occasional a athe 1 the sledge drivers which sound Ilk Uk I flock of black birds ft i a On en vera para ml 1111 bol boi Tho The streets streetA ore ure paved with im sharp stones set up on oa edge and roadway Is la usually divided d into Inlo thru tM narrow sections by b two parallel f r of oC largo large cobble stones Th fh h I P ar IW r to sidewalks anti tile the pavement am re I a aso t tso so lint JIRI anti nn polished so no smooth tho the constant passage of ot carros carro i Wooden and their gren grease t that It IH Is almost 1 for one oils the shoes of or civilization to 10 u alk aw bt without frequent falls II II The Tho saying of or tho tile village wag wa n fl fn Ir mornings In Iii the tho Until r dont U C sharp you will 1 U Ii ln fill fiat W with painful force Corre In this li of or pier summer Bummel where you are likely to w 1 lint fiat often ortell in any nn case on your jour our fl pedestrian excursions That U is native ladles ladies prefer th Ih thin do their social errands on donkey bUr bot When riding they always carry a 1 far Sr attended to In b parasol and each I is donkey boy hoyl ho who ho hotho lead the tho animal and keeps leeps oft n lira i by tor fIl n a hor horse o tall tail la Santo donio of or the tho fair n nto hate un unto S Sto to Kalil on toot foot They hay harP J II bI I caL fal falIon caLIon rowed rowell from feminine tourists tl Ine Ion of or alpenstock mid and now you w IU i w t I and clown lown see sea them theirs W up slippery steeps steep on their rj high healed shoes hoo carrying lang I an IE made of ot ebony with ro elles J streamers of oC ribbons like a 1 i wear wearIng boutte rook brOok In opera ned ala low Ing Ins a 1 tourists cap with a 1 In pleasant satin alln gown alf Ve these fashionable the plain wholesome J JIn peasant WO WOIn n nIn red nann ot of In their voluminous capes blue n or wr pur r and bodices of ot gr green Ibl hi of ot men i Th The rear real laced In front anti and OJ class clans wear tear shirts and ond zouave ill white while linen with broad IU 1 every hu of ot the rainbow ow little of ot dark blue broadcloth 1 caps of ot taU tall stuffed and tany fl Into sort a 1 with iCAt an up stiffly from the crown cretin lappets on the rim F D 13 WArn n Madeira Jan 2 |