OCR Text |
Show Woman's World Dressmaking Tricks Remove Traces of Last Year's Styles IF YOUR clothes ore snappy and well titling, if you keep well groomed and dress becomingly to suit your type, most people won't know whether you're wearing this year's dress or last year's. That, at least, is the consensus of clothes and beauty experts. If your clothes look attractive on you, you know that is what people notice more than high style, or the last ; word in fashion. One of the newest things that has come about this season is the longer hemline, and hems will require re-quire adjusting so they look fashionable. fash-ionable. But most of you know that hems in many cases can be let out the necessary inch or two for the new hemline. Before we get deep into- the subject sub-ject of alterations, let's consider what clothing should be altered, for there are basic features for such a project. Make certain the original fabric is good enough to warrant and survive sur-vive the change. If the dress is worn thin under the arms and in the skirt, there's no point in wasting wast-ing the time required for restyling. Work with a color that's becoming becom-ing to you; otherwise consider dyeing. Some styles are not adapted to change. This is true of very extreme ex-treme clothes, and if there is only a limited amount of fabric, or il the fabric you have is difficult to combine com-bine with some other, it's wise not to alter. When you do make changes in the actual style of the complete dress, be smart and use a regular pattern. When you choose a pattern, though, keep in mind the lines of the original origi-nal garment. The parts you recut should be ripped and pressed flat, then treated as new fabric. If you choose a contrasting color or print to add to the original dress, Never discard clothing until . . . have something that is suitable and becoming. It's hard to match the weave, so it's usually best to choose a plain contrast. How to Alter Your Hems Take the old hem out carefully, being careful not to cut the fabric or to pull a thread. This may be done by pulling a thread or cutting the threads with a small pair of scissors or a razor blade, but this requires care. Press the crease mark from the old hem carefully by laying a damp cloth over the markings and pressing press-ing with an iron. Repeat this process proc-ess until the crease disappears completely. If the material on the outside has faded and does not match that part which was folded under, the dress will probably have to be dyed. If there is not enough of the original origi-nal material to be turned under for a hem, you'll have to use one of the matching tapes. If the skirt is full draped or flared you'll need only a narrow tape. Adjust the Waistline If Too Large or Low If the waistline of a dress is too low, put it on and mark the waistline waist-line where it fits best and looks well. This is best marked with pins, then basted when the dress is taken off. Rip out the placket and separate bodice from skirt. Mark the center front and center back as you do this. Pin the skirt to the correct waistline waist-line marking, following what you have marked with the basting. Match center and side seams. Baste together and try on, checking carefully to make certain that you now have the correct waist. Stitch the skirt to the waist, press and insert in-sert the placket. If your dress is too large at the waistline, the removal of the zipper and side seams is necessary. Press out the folds, then pin to correctness. correct-ness. Mark the new side seams on back and front with pins, and then do the basting. When you are satisfied that the fit is proper, the seams are re- You try restyling it. j sewed, and the zipper returned to j the dress. Use a cording foot to sew ! in zipper, thus avoiding much of the usual difficulty encountered. Certain fabrics seem to develop an unattractive bagginess in the skirt, which is a quick giveaway of the age of the garment. To remedy this, remove the back waistline and side seams of the skirt. Raise the back of the skirt just enough to bring the side seams into line. Refit side seams and even the hemline. Restyle Dresses Which ! Are Too Small It's easier to make too large a dress smaller, but it is possible to make too small dresses fit. If you have dresses that are too tight and small, insert a contrasting contrast-ing panel in front. This is most easily done with a pattern by re-cutting re-cutting the dress and new panel for it. If your skirt is too narrow, add a new skirt from a contrasting fabric. This may be done from a new pattern. Another idea for making the skirt fit is to lower the waist of the dress, if possible, which brings the skirt down lower to give a long-waisted look. Or, use a contrasting fabric that fits the top part of the dress, and use a pattern for the skirt. If a new dress feels too tight, it's better to adjust it before you wear it even once. Remember, your mending job will be much more dillicult if you wait until a seam actually splits or pulls apart! |