Show WOMANS WOMAN'S WORLD r I J. J Hone ome Sewing Demands Attention ion to Details l I By ErHa Ertta Haley baste caste and fit my cut can n amateur t 7 1 U says laY an clottes i but something's wrong Itress sleeves and of my tb fit tb the I remedy these the theof can Ho HoW completing a garment of Details Dentin to those problem Just offer begun a to sew Fre- Fre who h have ve find nd that even qu whO wha wo toO haves have we made garments those are still sUU a at t a loss time for lIme me basic construction some bow s 8 to solved are problems the main difficulties of One if tit fitting tin g sleeves This comes came In understand because there to JI ea elS sleeves places laces for tor most three three- are S shoulder where the to j at nV the the garment at the I joins Jolna sleeve of ol the movement o ent I elboW because S arm and finally at the of the for it If you are working cuff cliff wrist riot or 01 L es 00 the long sleeve using a pattern you I U you ou are the sleeve 7 be certain that may armhole as this has wUI dt at the However use a adeal pre been of caution in cutting I deal with great the e patty P patt pattern rn n. n If the sleeve pat pat- C moves novel even slightly on the ma tern lam tonal during the cutting it U will twist during the wearing Note Mote too the mark for lor straight of d the goods goals in placing the pattern on co the fabric Lay the fold told of the J 1 Pit Fit sleeves at ill shoulder should saltern attern on the straight fabric fabricI rain iain h 1 I Cut the whole pattern but par- par I the sleeves when you youre s ire re at al leisure and at ease You Vou Jao fant t hope to cutting fault aults lathe In the fitting 1 I e 1 ilUng the Sleeve Requires Patience e 1 On long sleeves either the three- three or full length you will note lF j. j i J d dIt e It a 0 d 0 m a 10 it 11 c h T Try on 1 ore h stitching ty 11 t I there are darts at th the e e elbow Ib ow blob bleb pertain permit activity Be certain ou u In Include lude th the e material for tor these i cutting no matter h how ow 8 strange t te range p e sleeve pattern 1 looks 00 k s. s I Be De Smart s A AThose r Those wonderfully soft pastel wools that are arc top favorites for tor resort wear now hs ve hJ vc brought about an accompanying hat fashion the matching f felt e 1 It t swathed in net or maline and the lacy turban of net or froth froth- lest fest wool ice-wool crochet In the soft pinks blues pistachio greens greensand greensand greensand and other pastel colors of sheer wool the effect is a new and en entrancing n. n confection of a hat The swathed turbans give a wonderful background for the Jeweled touch of scatter pins or ora ora ora a single large pin Some of the puffed sleeves will also look peculiar be because ause of ol their fullness However when properly gathered they are designed to fit Sleeves should not be fitted high on the shoulder to eliminate the soft fold lold of the waist at the front and back The sleeve will tear out If U you have a model this helps in lo fitting sleeves It cannot do the Job completely though You'll have to try on the garment and move your shoulders and arms about while you check the fit Have your shoulder pads ready to insert when you fit lit the sleeve These should be inserted before the fit ting You not do the final linal stitching before belore trying on sleeves with shoulder pads Pads Vary with Fabric Which is Used Little padding is used currently on sleeves because the soft rounded natural shoulder line is being hailed However most shoulder lines are improved if a slight padding is inserted inserted inserted in in- to improve shoulder The shape of the pad varies with the material used in sewing the gar gar- ment The large triangles are used for woolens and some of the stiff heavy silk and rayon materials Small long or shaped round pads are considered considered considered con con- best for tor tb the sheer sheen fabrics Including the sheer woolens which are now so favored For washable fabrics you'll find lind that tha gathered taffeta serves quite well Raglan sleeves usually take a shaped pie-shaped pad with the broad edge wide enough to extend across the shoulder line Join one point to the shoulder or top of ot the sleeve while the other points are placed where yoke and sleeve meet If you have one shoulder higher than the other make a heavier and larger pad for lor the lower shoulder to to o even the shoulder line Une Stitch Side Seams Before Defore Joining li l To have ha the waistline fit Ot ly Its It's properly proper proper- Sent meat ment necessary l to the g gar r. r and to V prepare the garment a nent properly before re Joining the bodice with the lower half halt of ot the garment Amateurs I frequently feel It Is easier euler folli follow tollow to this sew the the waistline waistline and and nd then S by joining the aide seams leams Well i it certainly la is easier casler i to sew this M way but bt the waistline will rarely tit t properly It M lj ts either too l high gh or too On some dresses which require a stiff waist you many insert an inner belt to keep the waistline firm Among the new sheer dresses now appearing an elasticized waist Is sometimes used so the dress gathers softly and evenly With an loner Inner inner belt belt Join the seam first then Ulen insert the belt basting it to the seam Let these Tips Guide When Making l Pockets Pockets are not hard to make and they frequently add value as ns well as decoration to the garment Patch pockets which are fre toe used on house bouse dresses and cind aprons childrens children's clothing and the like are easiest to make They must be absolutely true and even A cardboard pattern Is best to use for tor cutting evenly Baste before stitching Top edges of ot pockets are finished first In lightweight fabrics this thia edge is hemmed In heavier fabrics fab tab rica cover the raw edge with seam binding after atter turning the edge then hem and pin pocket on the garment Check your accuracy in placing it before belore stitching |