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Show ' MIdy's MIdys ' Easter Finer 1 _ 0 - ? u ua u4x a , 4x I \ i m mtt tt _ . d N @ \ ' s so o 4 4i i , k4 x I IK Iu u * K 1 i ix 1Hn x c c1H /1/H/ 1 H / / / ' n 'k4 k4 'k4I ' \ / I 3 3I -I I - - - Si ) I ' : - 4 "i\ "i i "ia " \ a - . . 2 a1 a1.1 . -.1 .1 - .1c .1n - - c n . . . , . , . , 9 . e ro er - " o " ' e - eav a er 'l l ' lq lqa a " r , A r . : h R ( 1 "fI- "fI fI "fIv " - " ' v L , . , ) ' / ' \ ' , " ' :1.1 1.1 11 : ; . ' > 1 ' ' + " ' w ' ) M ' " < , i iS r r.u S . .C C . . .CR - * < R wa waA , . ' . , \.u .u \ , ' , . , . A CENTURY OF MILADY S EASTIR EASTER : FINER1-Upper FINER1 Upper FINERI-Upper FINERI . - left A walkmg walking dress of the Thirties ( From FromGodey FromGodey Godey s Lady s Book 1835) 1835 ) Lo\\ Lo Loer Lower \ er left In the era of the hoopslurt hoopskirt ( From Godey s Lady s Book , 1865) 1865 ) , Upper rIght When every lady was a devotee ot of the style called the Grecian bend and wore a bustle bustleFrom bustleFrom ( From a fashIon book of the early eIghtIes ) Lo\er Lo er Lower \ , tight right A GIbson gul girl ' of the early 1900 s Center CenterAn CenterAn An Iaster Easter : frock frock- frock frock1938 , - 1938 model ( Courtesy Style Creators , Chicago ) By ELMO SCOTT WATSONesternNewsPapertJnlon WATSONp WATSON WATSONWestern p @ \\esternNewsPapertJnlon esternNewsPapertJnlon \ Western esternNewsPapertJnlonTo extern Newspaper L linlon nlon nlonT nlonO ' "T T " O THE children , Easter may be a synonym for rabblts tabbats rab tab To T | bits blts bats Easter eggs , hot cross buns and other such delIghtsmostly delightsmostly de lIghts-mostly lIghts mostly lights - mostly gastronomical But to nine nme out of every everyten ever ; ) ten women it means-new means new means - new clothes And of course to most mostmen mostmen mostmen men it s a reminder reffilnder that they're theyre ' going gomg to have to pay their theirproportlonal theirproportional theirproportional proportlonal proportional proportlonalshare proportionalshare share of the $1 1 $ 500 000 000 to $2 2 $ 000 000 000 bill for Milady's Miladys Malady's Maladys ' Easter finery ' 0- 0 - 0But < But after all they shouldn't shouldnt shouldn'tcomplarn shouldn'tcomplain shouldn'tcomplain shouldntcomplain ' complarn complain They're Theyre ' ' mamly mainly mamlyresponsible mainlyresponsible mainlyresponsible responsible for this tlus annual annualEaster annualEaster annualEaster Easter parade of new frocks frocksnew , new hats , new gloves , new newstockmgs newstockings newstockings stockmgs stockings and new shoes shoesFor shoesFor shoesFor For , do you suppose for a amoment amoment amoment moment that Milady Malady would wouldgo wouldgo wouldgo go to all the trouble of get get- gettmg getting getting - ting tmg an entirely entlrely new outfit outfitfor outfitfor outfitfor for Easter if she didn't didnt ' want wantto wantto wantto to delight the eye of Mr MrMere MrMere MrMere Mere Man Man7 Mangy ? ( Do we hear a avOice avoice avoice vOice saying saymg 'Sure Sure ' Sure she shewould shewould shewould would Just lust ] ust to show off be- be before before be before - fore the other women woment women1"9 women19 ' " ' ? Is IsIt Isat Isit It at a masculine masculme or a femlDlne feminine femlDlnevOice femininevoice femininevoice7) femininevoice7 femininevoice7)Anyway vOice voice ? ) Anyway AIlyway men have always had hada hada makingwomen a great deal to t do with making makingwomen makingwomen women fashion tashlOn conscious * ' and andI andtwo andtwo andtwo two men perhaps more than I anyothers any anyothers anyothers others have been instrumental lDstrumental In helpmg helping inhelping Inhelpmg American women satIsfy satisfythe the deslre-\lhlch deslre lhlch desire-sthach desire sthach desire - \ which the men helped helpedcreateto helpedcreateto helpedcreate create-to create to - to keep in m style ' One Oneof Oneof Oneof of them was Mr Louis Lows Antoine Godey AntomeGodey AntoineGodey and the other was Mr Ebe- Ebe Ebenezer Ebe-nezer Ebe nezer be-- be benezer - - nezer Buttenck Butterlck Butterick ButterlckGodey ButterickGodey ButtenckGodey Godey was born in m New York Yorkcity Yorkcity Yorkcity city June 6 1804 educated there thereand thereand thereand and there during durmg his earlier years yearsoperated yearsoperated yearsoperated operated a bookstore and clr car clrculatmg carculating circulating culatmg culating library hbrary From this oc occupatlOn occupation occupation cupatlOn cupation it was a natural step In1830 to stepto the publishing pubmhmg bus business mess In Philadelphiawhere 1830 he moved to Philadelphia Philadelphiawhere Philadelphiawhere where he established establtshed Godey s Lady sLady s Book the first periodicalof periodIcalat periodIcal at of its k knd nd in m America In a few fewyears fewyears fewyears years this magazine magazme hadattained had attained attainedan an enormous prestige andclr andcar and clr car clrculatlln carculation circulatnan culatlln culation postalrates { Despite high postal rates the delays delas delajs , ! and uncertam uncertain ties uncertainties uncertamties of the mails malls and the expen expensive expenSlve expensave Slve save and cumbersome methods methodsof of _ printing pr1l1tmg in ll1 an those days the Ldy . theLady theLdy .uy uy . i . < ! . s Book Bo Bookhad DO OK e k _ . had lid the ' _ unjyece unprece tinprece ' unjyece unprece tinprece _ . _ unprecedented tinprecedented dented circulation clI'cuJahon clIcuJahon ' of ot 150 150000copies 000 000copies 000copies copies annually-proot annually proot annuallyprootof annually-proof proof annuallyproofof annually - proof ofa of a popu 1arlty larity populanty popu1arlty popularity which GodeyIth Godey with \\Ith Ith \ his na tlve tive native natlve for tor genius gemus advertising never neverallowed neverallowed neverallowed allowed forgetPart his readers to forget Part of its success of course was coursewas due to the woman whom whomGodey Godey secured for its editor m an in1837 ml837the an1837the l837-the l837 the 1837-the 1837 - the famous Sara Josepha Hale JosephaHale Cunously CUllously CuziousIy enough she was wasnot wasnot wasnot not primarily pnmanly responsible for the Lady theLady s Book becoming becom1l1g a textbook textbookin m in fashions That was the work workof workof workof of Mr Godey- Godey Godeyhimself - himself - hImselfand andac and ac accOldmg according accoiding cOldmg cording to Richardson Wright Wnght in an his has Forgotten rorgotten Ladies Ladles Godey sgreatest sgreatest s sgreatest greatest stroke stroh.e strohe . of pubhshmg publishing pubhshmggemus publishinggenius publishinggenius gemus genius was the use of colored coloredfashion coloredfashion coloredfashion fashion plates In those issues of ofthe ofthe ofthe the thirties one plate sufficed sufficedMrs sufficedMrs sufficedMrs Mrs Hale writes wntes in m defense of ofthem ofthem ofthem them that the thel they ) cost $3 3 $ 000 a year to yearto hand color and that they gave gaveconstant gaveconstant gaveconstant constant employment to twenty twentywomen twentywomen twentywomen women I IContinuing womenContmulng womenContinuing Continuing Contmulng his account of thISstroke thisstroke this Istroke stroke of genius gemus Wnght Wright says His saysHis enterprise enterpnse pushed this fash fashIon fashion fashion Ion news idea to its furthest furthestlimits furthesthnuts hnuts limits He sent fashion artists to artiststo Pans Paris and had society re reporters reporters reporters porters attending social func functlons functions functions theI tlons tions to Jot lot ] ot down notes on the I thedresses dresses By 1863 the Issues Issueswere issueswere issueswere were running runnmg two fashion plates platesin In color fourteen pages in m black blackand blackand blackand and white and nine rune others with descnptlve descriptive withdescriptive withdescnptlve timeMr tlmeMr text teet At this tlme time Mr Godey told his readers thatlD thatin that lD in one year he had spent over $100 100 over$100 over100 $ 000 to produce Godey s Lady sLady s BookBut BookBut Book BookBut But > if f Godey spent money lD an lDpromotmg anpromoting inpromoting promotmg promoting fashions he also made mademoney mademoney mademoney money In 1877 he sold his maga magaJzme zme zine magazme magazine to a stockcompany stock company When Whenhe Jzme he heleft died on Noveber 29 1878 he thani left a fortune of more than $1 1 $ fromhis 000 000acquired 000 acquired entirely from hIS publications and the greater greaterpart greaterpart greaterpart part of that fortune was made by madeby his Lady s BookEbenezer BookEbenezer Book BookEbenezer Ebenezer ' Buttenck B'uttenck Butterick the other otherman otherman otherman man who had so much to do wIth wIthpromotmg withpromoting withpromoting promotmg promoting women s fashions lD in mthis lDthis inthis this country was a native ot of ofMassachusetts otMassachusetts Massachusetts He was 22 years Godey yearsGodey s imuor JunIor 3unior having havmg been born bornat bornat bornat at Sterling in ll1 Worcester county , , May countyMay 29 1828 1826 1816 1826After 1816After 1828After After receiving recelvmg his education educahon ll1 in the inthe ll1the common schoolsof schools of Sterling Sterlingand and in lD the Leicester academy academyyoung young Ebenezer was apprenticed apprenticedto to a tailor in Worcester Later he Laterhe hisown established a business of his own inown inas as iras jx a jnerchant merchant , tailor ir- ir in - iras jx a , tailor ir- ir in - inSterling inSterlmg tailorSterling Sterlmg Sterling Leommster Leominster and finally in In finallyin Fitchburg F1tchburg FitchburgWhile F1tchburgWhlle , businessButtenck busmessButtenck businessButterick While Whlle conducting conductmg his busmess business Buttenck Butterick was much annoyed by , bythe childrens chlldren children the waste of ot time in cutting cuttmg chll chil dren s garments and he con celVed ceived conceived concelVed the idea of a set of grad graded ed patterns which would be a great agreat oth.r convenience convelllence to him andoth and oth .r r . < mothers mothera .r r . r tailors ; and md especially especla1\y especla1 y \ to moth ers era making makmg clothes for their own children ownchildren After a scries senes series of ex penments periments expenments experiments firstsalable he produced his first salable patterns on June 16 101863 1863 a date whIChmarked which marked the 1 . beginning begmmng of at a great enterprise enterprisethat enterprisethat enterprisethat that has flourished flounshed for three threequarters threequarters threequarters quarters of a centuryAt centuryAt century centuryAt At first Buttenck Buttellck Butterick s efforts were weredirected weredirected weredirected directed to boys and men s cloth clothmg clothing clothmg mg ing but in lD the spring sprmg of 1867 the thefirst thefirst thefirst first patterns for women s gar garments garments garments ments were cut These first pat patterns patterns patterns terns were folded by members of ofButtenck ofButterick ofButtenck Buttenck Butterick s family and were put up patternsThe m lD in patterns The success of the idea was al almost almost almost most immediate and by the follow followmg followmg following mg September Buttenck Butterick had to torent torent torent rent rooms in a house nearby and andengage andengage andengage engage five women and girls to tohelp tohelp tohelp help with the foldingIn folding foldingIn In the spring sprmg of 1864 the bus buss bussness business I Iness ness was transferred to the old Academy oldAcademy buildmg building m in FItchburg FItchburgand Fitchburgand Fitchburgand and during durmg that season Buttenck Butterick ButtenckIssued Butterickissued Buttenckissued Issued his first fashion faslllon plate a asmall asmall asmall small one showing showmg designs for forch forchildren forchildren ch children dren s clothing clothmg Later in Vt U tie tieyear e eyear eyear year he began publishing men s fashion sfashion plates These were ac accompamed accompanied accompanied compamed companied by cut patterns which c did whichdid whichc d away with the labor of trac tracing tracing fromI . mg ing fromdiagrams and cutting cuttmg out patterns from I diagrams as had been necessary prevIous necessaryprevious to that timeWithin time timeWithin Within Wlthm a year Buttenck Butterick s bus buss bussness business I I ness had grown to such propor tlon tion embarkinto propertiona proportlon proportion . > that he decided to embark embarkinto I Imto mto into NewYork wider wader fields Heent He went \\ent ent \ to New York and renteda rented ' a room on Broadway onBroadway for his Ills has workshop workshopBy By 1867 Buttenck Butterick s patterns had patternshad withAmerican withAmencan become so popular with Amencan American women who were learnmg learning werelearning werelearnmg maketheir from them how to make theIr own clothes that he was able wasable to hire a general agent one Jones oneJones Warren Wilder and a sec retary secretary whowere Abner W Pollardwho Pollard who were thefirm associated with him rum ham in an the firm of E Buttenckand Butterickand Buttenck Butterick and Com Corn Publishmg Publ1shmg l1shmg lishmg Cornlishmg lishmgIn p'any pany organized ' Cornpany Comp'any InCompany In Company CompanyLtd Company 1881 the Buttenck Ltdwas Ltd was Pub or or OIL orgamzed gamzed ganized gamzedand ganizedand and the active manage ment management of the business placed , - - - - " In m " Inthe mthe | the hands of at Wilder and Pollard | PollardWIth with Buttenck Butterick 11T1Q1'J1 _ nommal nomanal 1-'J1 1 'J1 J1 exercising a nom mal anal - * ' " ' " " - - - - - " malsupervISion analsupervision supervISion over the manu 1 factunng lacturmg facturing departmentButterick department _ | Buttenck Butterick finally retired . tiom from LAAm lnifAa the f busmess business - - In 1899 and went to Ills his native town . . . to . lastyears - - spend uf&uu ufuu & his 1115 last years lastyears He died in Brooklyn N Y March 31 1903 _ By this time + iA- iA iAi - i/ i ii / -i- i - - * - - hIS company was selling more sellingmore than 50 000 non . _ _ _ , - . - - vvy"Ins jaLLUI-nS jaLLUI nS -"I-ns "I I . - " " " - - familiar mostfamiliar every year and one of the most scenes m in Amencan American homes Americanhomes of that penodWas periodwas period penod was the thesight sight of at mother and her daughteror daughter I Ior or daughters , bending bendmg over kItchen thekitchen the table on whichWas which was spread ToIt it they out were a lengthof length of cloth To , I pinning pmnmg ' of'tissue oftissue pieces at of tissue paper of various vanous shapes shapes"round shapesround " around the edges of which they thevj would cut the cloth carefu1\y carefu1 y carefully \ Anew A new dress was In the process of bemg being made In an Amencan American home . thanks . . - . . w to me the ofa Yankee ingenuity of a tailor named Ebenezer Buttenck Butterick EbenezerButtenck _ _ - - - - - - styles asexemplified as asI women s Although Easter Easterparade annual exemphfied exemplified m the always afforded affordedMr affordedfor , parade have opportumtY opportumtYfor Man an anfor Mr for Mere some somealso of hIs hIswlthest considers for whrt whit he they have havebeen also alsobeen alsowittiest wlthest wittiest remarks study studyby studyby for 1erlOUS Serious ' been a subJect sublect example exampleof . . An - - m by the thehistorians historians RecurringCycles Recurring I of thIs thisis IS the bookR book R 17601937wrItten 17601937 17601937written 60 60193ng 193ng 193ngCycles . . .i i . of f Fashionwritten Fashion written Cycles by Agnes Brooksy Brooksoand BrooKs Harper y Young xounsand oand oandand and andBrothers and published publ1shed byBrothers by Brothers last year yearThis yearexten yearThis This extenThis book based uponsave upon exten extenSlve extenthA - - - - the thA itvie style magawes magaapes maga research In Slve save dur- dur durlDg during - published . . |