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Show - - - - - - KASHMIR ICASIIIVIIR KASIfMIR VALE VALEFULL VALEFULL VALEFULL FULL OF CHARMSrinagar CHARM CfIARM CHARMSrinjgar Srinjgar Srin.tgar Srintgar Srinagar . Is a Lo\ Lo Lo Lo\cly Lo cly Loc1y \ c1y Place for a aVacation aVacation aVacation Vacation . Prcr'ircd Prcrircd Prc-p'trcd Prc p'trcd ptrcd Prepsred - ' ' hy by o.atlonnl oatlonnl 1.attonal 1attonal ] . > . > * .tlonnl tlonnl . Ocoaraphic OeoA'Tn.phlo OeoATn.phlo OeoATnphlo GeorraphIe ' ; . So Soeioty Soeiotyashlntton Society\Vashlniton Society Vashlniton < : lctY lctY"ashlnr : \ashlntton ashlntton "ashlnr ashlnr \ " % , , ton D C-w C w C CNU - \\NU NU \ " \ NU service crvlcc ticrvlce ticrvlceA ticrvlceS . , serviceA crvlccAs A S w WARM 1VARM An I we-ithcr we ithcr we'lthcr welthcr weather ' - ' ippronches 'lpproaches lpproaches oppronches , , A As < L\ L Lthe \ the Vnie Vule Vale of Kashmir , , one of ofthe ofthe ofJL\ ofJL ofJLo \ . the o finious f'lmous flmous famous ' gnnlen garden fcpots pots spots : , ofthe ofthe of ofthe the v "olld olld world " < 01 Id , , beckons heclons , to the Baca Bacationists \ incatlonists fica ficatlonIsls tlonIsls tionists of India Its wooded hi11s1dec hillsides hillsidesdon hillsidesdon ; don n a nctt nc\\ nc new ncgrcen \ \ green grcen which hich hlch Is rcnected rcflected reflected In Inthe Inthe inthe the clear , blue , placI placid streims stre'lms strelms streams ' of the theval1ey thevalley thevalley val1ey valley , and houseboats are put in or order order order der for a busy seasonThe seasonThe season seasonThe The Vile V'lle Vlle Vale ' of Kishmir K'lshmlr Klshmlr Kashmir ' lies imong 1mong among ' the thelowei thelowel 10\\ 10 10e1 lowei \ \ e1 Himalayas , noith north nOl th of tlie the Indian IndianPunjab IndianPunjab IndianPunjab Punjab One reaches Srinagir Srlnag\r Srlnag r Srinagar ' \ , the thesummer thesummer thesummer summer capltil cnpit'11 cnpit11 capital ' of the native state stateknown stateknown stateknown known ' is 'lS lS as the domain dom'lin domlin ' of the hh'lraja hhlraja Maharaja Maharajaof hh'lrajaof ' of Jammu ' and 'lnd lnd Kashmir , o\er o er 0er otter 0\ 0 \ \ er a long longroute longroute longroute route by rail r'1il r1il roll ' and motor . , From rrom Bom Born Bombny Bornbay Bombay bny bay one tr tray travels n els northward by train train"Ia trainvia , \"Ia "Ia Ia via \ " Delhi and Lahore L'lhore Llhore ' , to TIa\\alpindl TIa alpindl Rawalpindi Rawalpindione ' \ , one of the chief army posts of British BritishIndIa BritishIndia BritishIndia IndIa There theay the \ way \\ay ay to beauty opensAlmost opensAlmost opens opensAlmost Almost at once on leaving Rawalpln Rawalpindl Rawalplndl Rawalplndi dl di the : motor road N'ld Nld ' beings to climb cllmb Up Upnnd Upand Upand nnd and up through the deodar deohr ( clad slopes slopesof slopesof slopesof of the 10\\ 10 lower 10er Iower ' \ er mountain the road twists twistsand t twistsand 15ts 15tsand and turn turns , the heated air nlr of the plains plainsgro plainsgrows plainsgrows gro grows s cool and nnd 1m ins in\igorating in igorating \ Igoratmg igorating , , until untilwhen , when tri\clcrs tri clcrs tr'lclers trlclers travelers ' \ , m'll mll make ' e their first over overnight overnight overnight night stop at Tret , they feel c\pthated c pthated captiiated capthatedbv cpthatedbv captiiatedby ' \ bv by a jo joous jo3ous ; : , ous holiday spirit spiritEverything . . Everything Evcrythlng seems amusing amusmg and acid In Interestmg interesting intcrcsting terestmg teresting Ruffled TIuffled punkas punhas swing from fromthe fromthe fromthe the celling celllng ceiling , though you may have no noneed noneed noneed need of them Tour Your deft and nnd tur- tur turbaned turbaned tur-bancd tur bancd - - baned SerHlnts servants sen ants patter b'lrefooted blrefooted barefooted b'lrefootedabout barefootedabout barefootedabout ' about the rooms , unrolling your bed bedding bedding bedding ding on the stringed strmged charpoys ch\rpoys ch rpoys ' \ , the thefairly thefalrii > falr1 fairly : , comfortable beds of India Indin Even Eventhe Eventhe Eventhe the not too bad food served by the thebungalow thebungalow thebungalow bungalow cook is a matter for tor hungry hungryjest hungryjest hungryjest jest Lovely , lovely world , with a asummer asummer asummer summer of Kashmir K\shmrr K shmrr ' \ aheadNative ahead aheadNative Native Chauffeurs Are Speedy . The road from Rawalpindi TIawalpindl to Srma Srhna Srhnagar Srmagar Snnagar gar is a well built motor road , , some some200 200 miles long , , and it ] lies fes through the themonntnms themountains themountains monntnms mountains north of the PIr Panjal Panjalpass Panjalpass Panjalpass pass Snowy peaks rise nigh high above aboveSou above3ou Sou ou The rushing waters of Icy Icystreams Icystreams Icystreams streams chatter noisily below . H\lr H lr Halr HlrpIn Halrpin Hairpin ' \ pIn turns In the road make mahe you catch catchyour catchyour catchyour your breath and nnd curl your toes , for the the"ays theways theways "ays ays ways " of the native nath"e nathe " driver are his own ownantI ownand ownand antI and without fear fc\r fc r ' \ , , and , alas , , you have havenot havenot havenot not the kno knowledge ledge of his languagewherewith languagewherewith language languagewherewith wherewith to express your feelingsSoon feelingsSoon feelings feelingsSoon Soon , from the first traveling travellng sahIb sahibyou , you may learn to say , "Ahlsta Ahlsta "Ahista Ahista " , ahista ahlsta'But ahlstaBut ' ' But you never succeed In making mahlng an anIndln anIndian anIndian Indl\n Indl n Indian ' \ chauffeur drh drhe e slowly , slowly . It Is possible to make m'lke mlke ' the trip to toSrlnagr toSrinagar toSrinagar Srlnag\r Srlnag r Srinagar ' \ In a day d'lY dlY ' , but not ahlsta ahista 1 ! 1Quite 1Quite QUIte the contrar contrary contrar3 : , You spend two twonIght twonight twonight nIght In dak d\h d h hh ' \ bungalows ( resthouses resthousesalong ) nlong along the way W'lY WlY ' , the second at nt Baramula Baramulawhich , wbleh which lies at the edge of the great de depressIon depresslon deression pressIon presslon known hnown as the Vale Yale of Kash Bash mir mlr . . From rrom Baramula BaramuIa one can go the rest restof restof restof of the way by boat . , up the Jhelum JhelumfIver Jhelumriver Jhelumnver fIver river ; but you may preferto prefer . , , to .to . dnve drive dnve'lhe driveZhe drivelha 'lhe lhe Zhe ' last 35 33 3S miles lie Ue across a le\"el le "el el level le"elstretch levelstretch levelstretch \ " stretch , the road bordered bordcred on either eithersIde eitherside eitherside sIde by slender poplarsThe poplars popl'lrs popllrs poplarsThe ' The people pacsed paused pa : ed along the way waynre wayare wayare nre are quite different from those one onc sees seesIn seesIn seesin In India Ekkas l kas and tongas , the two twowhecletI twowheeled twowheeled whecletI wheeled horse hor.e hore : . drawn di l ' awn 'lwn lwn vehicles of the thecountr thecountry thecountry countr\ countr country countrdlaw \ " , diaw dlaw thaw asl aside e to let you p'lSSThe passThe pass p'lSS plSS passThe ' The 1 \ " \ ale of Kashmir Kasbmlr Is a level le\"el le "el el \ " val valley valley valley ley about SO 80 miles long and a averaging averagingabout a\originsabout a originsabout \ ' er\gIng er gIng ergIngabout ' \ about 20 miles in width It lies , a agreat agreat agreat great 0\ 0 \ o\al o al 0aI offal \ aI , , sunounded sUllounded suiiounded by mountains mountainsgreen mountainsgreen mountainsgreen green , with vIth deodar deod'lr deodlr ' and spruce on the thelower thelower thelower lower reaches reaehe and "hUelth " wlilte "hUe hUe white \ with \\lth lth snow snowuntil snowuntil snowuntil until well into the early C'lrly Clrly ' summer SI.Ies SIIes Shies SI.Iesof Shiesof Skiesof . of an Jncredlble JncretIlble incredible blue complete a color colorscheme colorscheme colorscheme scheme of fairy loveliness 10vclIness ThlOUgh Thiough ThlOUghout Thioughout Thioughout out the vaIle valley : , ' " winds "Inds Inds the curving line lineof lineof lineof of the River nt\"er nt "er er \ " Jhelum , , ' ' along 'llong llong 'aong aong the b'lnlcs blnlcs banks b'lnlcsof banksof banksof ' of " which "hlch hlch whicii stiaggle straggle sh aggle the streets and andbazn'lrs andbazaars andbazaars bazn'lrs baznlrs bazaars ' which "hleh hleh wliich " form the ancient clt city cityof citiof of Srinagar Srmag\r Srmag r Srtnngar ' \ SrinagarQuaint SrtnngarQuaint Quaint Scenes In Srinagar Srlnagar . Seven curious bridges span the therh therh therher rh er . , nnc and ] along the shore quaint old old"ooUen oldswollen oldwooYlen "ooUen ooUen swollen " houses bouses lean sometimes at a arakIsh arakish arakish rakIsh an angle le Many r'lny rlny Winy . ! ' of the city streets streetsend streetsend streetsend end In \ wide Ide stone steps leading down downto downto downto to the rh rhers risers er sedge edge Tbe These < : e stalrwavs stairways stairwaysare stalrwavsare are usually USU'lllv USUlllv ' nnim animitcd animlted lted scenes of nntlve nattve nntlvelife nattvelife nativelife life Ucre IJere Here the laundry launtIry men wash the theclothes theclothes theclothes clothes ; ; here the women come to filltheir fill filltheIr niltheir theIr water jars j'lrs jlrs ' Children tumble and andplay andplay andplay fillI I play about , and goats and cows ram ramblc ramble ramble blc ble freely among them all From rrom the theovel theoveibanging theovcibanging ovel oveibanging b\nglng b nglng ' \ balconies balcomes lengths of d dyed dyedpashmina dedpashmlna ; ed edp'lshmlna p'lshmlna plshmlna pashmina ' hang out to dry dr ; All An Is Iscolorful Iscolorful Iscolorful colorful and antI gayAlso gayAlso gay gayAlso Also tliere there is the Interesting rn riser riserlife rnerlife er erUfe Ufe life A large part of the population populationof of Srinagar Srlnngar l\ l Ihes les uses ! \ es afloat Odd , long longpointed longpointed longpointed pointed boats , called dungas , with withsuperstructures withsuperstructures withsuperstructures superstructures hung hungwith -with with - mats m\ts m ts ' \ of ofwo ofwomen ofwotcn woen women wo\ wo \ en reeds reetIs , are the only homes which whichthousands whichthousands whichthousands thousands of Kashmirls Knshmlrls Rashmtris ever know knowSleeping knowSleeping knowSleeping Sleeping quarters , within \ Ithln , a kitchen of ofsorts ofsorts ofsorts sorts open to the eyes of all aU , a n few fewpots fewpots fewpots pots of brass or copper , and a poor poorKashmirl's poorKashmirl's poorKashmirFs Kashmirl's Kashmirls ' household Is complete . The native of more ample means meanshas meanshas meanshas has a better boat Walls Was ] of wood re replace replace replace place the wo\en wo en women 0 \ ' en mass , and as better betterand betterand betterand and better financial status Is Indlcat inflect inflected Indlcated Indicatod ed . , so the boats bO'lts bOlts ' Improve The best bestare bestare bestare are comfortable and well furniqhed furnished furniqhedhouse furnishedhouse furnishedhouse house boats , such as one might see seeupon seeupon secupon upon the River TIlver Thames 'hames hames 'games games 'hamesThe 'gamesThe ' ' ThamesThe The : English have made mnde their con contrlbutton contribution contribution trlbutton tribution In the development of ot the thehouse thehouse thehouse house boat In Srinagar Srlnagar ; ; for the Vale Valeor Valeof Valeof or of Kashmir I.ashmir Iashmir . has become not only a fa faorlte fasorite fawrite \orlte orlte sorite \ vacation land for the EngUsh English EngUsharmy Englisharmy Englisharmy army In India lntIIa , but the permanent permanenthome permanenthome permanenthome home of many retired officers anl1 and anl1theIr andtheir andtheir theIr famine ramlllcc families : ' ; familiesServants Servants All Are Men Mon . One II lives ves easily In Kashmir . , A Ahost Ahost Ahost host of or servants cost coct ; about as much much'IS muchas muchas 'IS IS as ' one good coek coak cook In the West SVest , and andthev andthey andthev thev they feed tbem themselves elves Each 1ch ' one has hashis hashis hashis his appointed duties l1utles and antI does themt'lllrly themfairly them themalrly alrly t'lllrly tlllrly fairly ' wellMl wellA.ll well wellA.11 . A.11 A11 A.ll All Ml . your servants In Kashmir are men The women : ; seldom Ieldom work out outLven ouLEven . Lven Even the little children chl1dren of Westerners Westernersi1 Westernersfiequently Westernersficquently i1 cquently fiequently lln\ lln have llne hate \ e men servants serV'lnts serVlnts ' to care carefor carefor carefor for them Your Il list ] ist , t may mllY Include Jnc1nde n a nmangl amangl amangi mangl , , or head boatman bo\tman bo tman ' \ ; ; a khltmat khltmatgr khltmatgar khitmatgar g\r g r gar ' \ ( chief chler house houcc ; ocn ( ; sonant servant nnt ) , , assistant assistanthhltm'ltgar assistantkhitmatgar assistantkhitmatgar hhltm'ltgar hhltmltgar khitmatgar ' , a bhisti bhlstl ( water carrier carriersweeper , snceper-of snceper of slsceper-of slsceper - - of lowest lowe9t caste and < doer loer of ofmcmnl ofmental ofmenial mcmnl mental Jobs ) , a khansamnn khnnsamnn kliansaman ( cook ) , a adhobl adhobi adhobi dhobl dhobi ( washerman 'lcherm'ln lchermln ' ; ' ) , a dhuryl dhur7L dhur'l dhurl ' ( sewln sewing sewingman sewingman m\n m n man ' \ ) , a mall mali ( g gardener g'lrdener glrdener ' trdener ) , , and nnd thrc three threelittle thrcplittle ( ' little chokerag choI.er'ls choI.erls choIerls cliokeras . ' , , the small boys who whopadde whopaddle whopaddle padde paddle } the sblkara 5hlJ.arn 5hlJarn shikara . , , a small sm'lll smlll ' gondola gondolalItee gondolalike gondolalike lItee like boat In which sou ou go cverywhcl cverywhete cverywheteyou cvcrywhcieyou e eyou you desire It seems an ample list 11st1 11st1It ' It If you take taI.e taIe . guests for tcto tea tc\ tc ' \ to Shall- Shall Shali- Shali Shallmar Shalimar Shall-mar Shall mar - mar gardens g'lrdells glrdells ' , the houseman hOUSCID'ln hOUSCIDln housemen ' goes along along'lnd along'tad alongand 'lnd lnd 'tad tad ' ' sen scnes serses es a n perfect meal under the thesprc'ldmg thespreading thespreading sprc'ldmg sprcldmg spreading ' chenar chcnar trees trtcs When you youphn youplan youplan phn plan a morning in the bazaars b\z'lar"l b z'lar"l zlarl ' \ ' " , , the thehouseman thehouseman thehouseman houseman follows respectfully behInd behindyour , your guide Your days d'lYs dlYs ' are carpeted carpetedw1th carpetedwith carpetedwith w1th with case ease and vour your home Is a joy joythanks , thanks to the11lIng the ' willing \11lIng 11lIng \ service of an anable anable anable able hOllsemanWhere housemanWhere houseman hOllseman housemanWhere Where but In Kashmir K'lsllmIr KlsllmIr ' could one onecall onecall onecall call back baclc to a hou houseman < ; eman as one ODe Is Islea isleas Isleaving lea\ lea leas leain \ in . ; , home for ' all 111 day dny , 'we we ' will willha willhate willhave ha hate , e guests for dinner tonight at atnine atnine atnine nine o'clock oclock ' , " and return to find every every- everything everything everything - thing in perfect order , fresh flowers flowersever flowerseverywhere flowerseverywhere everywhere ever where , the table set In holiday holidayattire holidayattire holidayattire attire , and a course dinner perfcctly perfectly perfcctlyplanned perfectlyplanned perfectlyplanned planned ? ' ) < ? Many Iany } , of the Kashmlris KashmIrls Kashmiris are fine look looh- looh look- loohing looking looking - ing , the women especially especl'lIJy especllIJy ' having beau beau- beautiful beautiful beautiful - tiful eyes and quite regular features featuresLike featuresLike featuresLike Like other native nathe & states &tatcs tatcs of the Indian Indianempire Indianempire Indianempire empire , Kashmir has an English resi resi- real- real resident realdent resident - dent , or advisory |