Show L American Americ n Fashions Fashions' S By Lillian Young Youg aim aUl arc the tho most favored and satisfactory materials material tor for the tho calling costume eo of or tho the present day due tile to the fact that they tle so 0 adequately answer all al the requirements or 01 the tho cv r present draping The velvets which which man many turn out these days day arc a d delight to work with doing being so supple and anti pliant plant and quite quio different from irom tho the heavy y bun bungling ID lab fab b- b tics of a low fow years a ago o. o There is 18 a certain l ligat Jt shade of that tuat is 13 becoming to most women It II is isa isa isa a d darker than AJ Alice o blue I and not BO so dark as Cope Copenhagen It goes by tho name nano of powder blue and just why it t should d be bo so named is a mystery as asit asit it docs does not acorn to express anything in particular However it l 13 s very shimmering shim mering moring meriul and attractive iu iii velvet or se If I the tho model iu iu the tho sketch were evolved from froni this powder po blue shade shado of or of velvet velvet it would make malee a 3 most tive caln calling eo costume Blue Blu worn with dark furs is boun bound l to be c striking wih and nd somehow w tho the combination seems well wel adapted to caln calling gowns This particular model has a plain plin blouse with three quarter length sleeves cut i in On ono with wih the tho side eide Ede lengh see sec tons A square b b hj extending from the belt up to tho bust line lino forms an extension of the tho short hort panel in in the tho front of the skirt rt The back is simi suni- suni arranged with the panel running a at a little lon longer or on account of the pannier pannier pan pau nier cur n curving do downward It I will be noticed that the panel is tucked wi under the pannier appearing to hod hold up the tho drapery It is is' is then ornamented with witia witha wi a a row of square enamel buttons on either cither side e. e This pannier is cr very simple in its its construction it extends a little below the hips bip is gathered evenly at the belt I and is then finished at the lower edge with w-ith wih a separate band of ot self material Tho The treatment of the remainder of the skirt length is simple enough b. b being finished on the hem with a band of fur and caught cand t up under the pane panel in front thou though h this last little touch of draping may mar be eliminated with wih possibly more moro satisfactory results It I cannot be bc denied that it i takes a 3 def cleft def V. V f S 5 1 S i dJ i J 4 t tf f A calling costume of blue velvet with skunk banding fingered modiste to accomplish graceful grace graceful race ful and aud natural draping drapin A dainty soft trimming for filmy or evening evenin gowns OWns is white hite furDo fur Do you yop know that you can buy a whole white rabbit abbit skin and cut it up for tor handing banding The beauty of it is that itcan it itcan can eau be bou bought ht so eo cheap and antI it i closely resembles ermine when cut in narrow narow bands White banding is always pretty and not expensive c The Tho mottled moLted fur of the c civet et cat is much in vo vogue c for trimmings trimmings- s' s on suits and wraps Pelts of flat fur such euch as 35 mole seal and beavor beaver are being successfully sue suc used on many dresses The fur must be firmly stitched t a band I to avoid stretching or tearing I velvet and broche shoes to match the tho gowns of these materials Velvet silk sik fur and chiffon are often often of of- ten seen sean in in one frocks frock froc aro are so 80 much in iii favor this year The Tho honors of tho the season seaon seem to be divided between the extremely short I arl extremely lon long suit coat cot A tailored costume of ot mulberry red moire trimmed with wit silver nver fox fur fUl makes a a delightful combination One of the new evening gowns of black velvet vel had bad its is white chiffon petticoat pot pet edged with bi big pink pi roses The present position of tho the aigrette or paradise on the bat hat is distinctly Uy upright up ri right ht in in the very ver front Another wa way of trimming tho the small smal toque is ia with Jon long loop bows boW standing stiffly out toward one side The The new simile simie or Parisian ivory is ie gaining in favor for toilet tonet set sets Very luxurious tH sets t indeed are aro gold old inlaid Hemstitching and buttons like pearls are the usual ornaments of f the fashionable fash lash white whito crepe de chino chine shirt waist Russian tunics of moire sleeveless and fur trimmed are very effective worn over simple long lont sleeved Ups slips ot velvet S Favorite avorie dresses for debutantes ar armade are made of flowered do de in ina inn in ina a n modernized Louis XV or Louis Luis XV XVI style Women who aro are not slender and tall do well to avoid the the draped skirts skirts- for thc them n tho the straight tailored style is i most becoming Many of tho the black and white chiffon on blouses have havo a vivid touch of cerise censo somewhere ofton often re-often often in in the form forte of a velvet vel vol- vet bow The present fashion is to havo bavo the head look small the small the smal-the the hair is simply dressed close dose to the head without curls or puffs I S The effect is la almost almost a as much liked as as ever on evening c gowns All the most fashionable blouses atthe of at the Al season have hac a certain soft looseness loose loose- ness the ness the neel-the the result resul of rolling collar colar and low shoulder Skunk leads as a trimming fur SOn Somehow how it combines most delight liht fully wih with delicate tissues and eit citer cither ber dark daik or delicate colors dar be bein being being Tho The now new neW waistcoats aro actually in ing made in such tuch bright colors as red green and orange with wih shawl reverS rever and self buttons buttone Beautiful sets of natural red fox tox with their dan dangling ln legs and tais tails loo looK looh looKas as if i their fair wearers wearer h had bad d just jUt returned re reo turned from the chase case The Turkish blouse seen o on afternoon afternoon after after- noon gowns is made o of a dar er darker ma inn material teral than the tho fancy dr dress s and edged with ith fur Some of the new net nU Russian li n tuni tunis tunics s sare and aud are scalloped around the bottom bordered with fur mur The Time full fun sleeves slee are arB gathered in at the wrists A 4 charming Russian RUsian tunic coat is of green and gold old brocaded tissue with sable fur border The skirt to this is of black satin with a tr train in Broadtail is being used by hr th the I wealthy for lon long wraps rape for hats hat for band ba bags s and for tor entire suits Tho The wis suits arc are necessarily very ory simple lc |