Show p I n nI t I r LAST HOURS HOUR S IN 5 1 I THE SPANISH CAPITAL I i 1 on the Farewell enin II An A n Evening 0 I I Isidro the h Saint I w I h n n a i Jufe To Io imagine l p Capital without Its frado I Iu U l tr th I d u as t he pl 17 or of hamlet r I u a of Deama lett out h tl t rw more T n K at nun 1 three 1 nc tile the whOM whole eastern eMs of e the dally dU PaCe 1 w 1 I w I t lie liB people the b center ot of I ante lit life said nd the t I I r ud end po p poTh tn Matches Th II I here laere u III 1 h I uth inure ot of truth th t hY t n the Prado for tor nowhere d ut hr I 1 t I his tars In Romo J J j I ot w o her ln III the wordless Ian laa t I J r rf 1 I prado a meadow f I for tor 1 I j Belt li mt met drive dal d a into a 11 with trees tre 1 1 I 1 I I r ted with the the larden ros l of Bun I i IV sad na naJi Ii t ba r P lp I n Il II Into four I mat 1 I Ji I III r f h under uDder a II H b by the Ule way war tery HO to toab stranger r J several leveral parks park d ab Infer that c in tad cad of only on one Thue Thu portIon ot of the prado 1 I Id ru I M Ie extends put the I tu u of 01 II tar far a the I t e lh the Paleo de t 1 The Tbt latter lauer con conS conIe 1 the splendid Ie S tar far as II at that point Into the thel t h 0 tm 1 l Prado until Neptune foun I when it slain changes I del rado and andI andray I 1 tl u II I O I r it ray past pact the royal picture t fI th he botanical garden to tot toi t I i In n which the queen and nd I with mot most ot of the court That 1 r f vesper devotions i t retie lI near ar the up upI I ku son uS as Salon alon del Prado 1 FI t c center ot of anti antI antII I t 1 before oen off of f men toen and be s cen ot men to n nI e 10 I breezes and to t chit chat with i art are c to tor b r t u n afford It and very many Ii na Ie go In carriages and always h r best t the true Iru truetell i II tell III practice the closest clott par part j t I d t In order to keep up n abroad Th ThE the thes s E i et crowds crowd ot of I loa ho I JeoW equipages r 0 ladles and d gentlemen p groups 11 of earh in 11 ph coat ot of man many colon colonI colo color r I without number tn In gaudy t f scarlet oran orange or purple rn s1 iii those hues hul combined In on one oner r f r gown own slashed with broad 1 r velvet elvet Ilk like ra a as they dart about h r I lit lit together to m n b under lA lAE the acacia E I t r cigarettes and rl 11 r f th the da day In all 11 the ten Ian tenE Ii iII rol E and n J I T Ting Indeed so 10 much I n 1 on every aide Ide combIned t th fashions and elegance Y yu U easily easly imagine yourself f n Ii h 11 Mil Acadia of the Par Pari ParaU i aU 1 Only the customs t IY y me that are de here y h I cause tor a an J n Prate such as 1 k n a t ly face or for unknown I ri t I range themselves In In front 0 of hr her and andi nd 1 i t r Hu they Ihy can If get t and nd deliberately IT r f t r hI h II t perhaps II with rJ re c s M lelles to the manor rte II I II this the highest ot of corn com I 1 l r I ut fancy an n Am American woo we wee wooi i 1 e JI gust l at al such uch brutal rudeness j 1 iI tJ right hUB tee wrath rath of her husband i I h carriages and ti I J h r us K gg slowly round and nd round I riI u rid never venturing v h 11 Lynn Cybele CYbela fountain at on one onel l iner called Doe DoB de nd of May Ia at the other I d i Prado roper proper Is 11 exactly I Ir hd 1 yards Ion long by eighty n J l II t th two driveways and several r t t i t 1 h tween en overarching av eve IIla trl trees bordered on either nun 11 its Jt roads are al H tr m constant volumes of r d 1 over them to subdue lb Ih il 11 the hl trees appear to ton be ber r E n oc 1 n I p ns nde channels being cut to toh h hP II tIer to their roots All Alle rl e Ii soy ar are hundreds of Iron Ironi i v lIt 11 d 1 bark back to 10 beck f r rent nt at t tt t r lito for tor u Ion long a t be desired One of the things to the observant r I 1 to watch th the maneuver ot of w ant nl couples to out t rn Jas by securing chal chaiN I k III u note not the little a I r t r 1 u th dour doux or gages Pres e o owner nell look moan H tU ahead A great t mft many I L Lan t 1 gay little stalls taU ar arII are rr II In which all manner of Ik I c i 1 k ar are tk I 1 I I I 1 tore Ih the drinker eyes t f ii l Ii h t r i Kant tit or ro cow Into a glass i 7 J I Ih I h i r to ImItation cock I r I 1 laI a The Thes I ri s 1 to III d de Chu h 1 f iw flavored with r a mall In nut Dat brought from Ito t I i ular variety called h r 1 To wen en greater demand demandt demanda t Z a i made mad of 1 and r t 1 t III b slap shape and color colorU n r U ll 1 I ce pee are dipped r t utter and sucked dry I ing repeated repealed until the the i 1 Comer dulce t c r tat sweets Wet for the II fl nl a favorite I Y V Yu lItal h in Spain MI Many n people break breakfast fast tut 1 POn alo women and aad to 0 this perhaps ilia may b be due du some ome of the n rt fat that th the fair senorita I le bound to take on at t middle age Madrid I le said ald to be tb the noisiest cU cUIn city In lb the world and certainly none that I have seen lieD can an begin to compare with It ItIn Itin In u the variety shrillness aid 1 penetrating power ot of Its treet cries all ot of which are re at their WorM woes when tb the perpetrators arise refreshed from rum their Ion long midday state std 14 his hie to the Prado where their readiest customers are re congregated ody buy bura some lome something thin thing It If only 1 a glass ot of water or some Jume waxen vestal elt for lighting hi his cigar BeU Seller ot of everything very thin that can be car sled on the backs balU or of donkey or the backs back ot of men meA women and children Jos tie pedestrians each showing bl bis warea war with the lull full fOl force e ot of hl his IlIn In Indeed deed h he must mut to be herd heard above bo the voices ot of several thousand vivacious aU alt chat chattering toe toge her Ague Aua Anal qua Ague ua held heleda Como la lanieve nieve Water Water Who wants water ater Cold water fresh fh as tb the stow now nowell yell ell the ly fa ear earsplitting r splitting are the of tb the match vendor the seller II of honey hone end and fruit trUIt candy and aad goodness knows how what not At the same lime Um time you ou are constant constantly ly h beset and Importuned b by lottery ticket vendor vendo while beggars bar b big and nd little IIttI who look upon the stranger as lawful py prey and have no Idea ot of taking a r ful follow tullow cIo clog your trail when afoot and encamp round bout about when you ou sit It until the nuisance I unbearable Street musicians add their not I quota to th the general din MI 01 legs with with mandolins and guitar ulta gypsies with and but thank heaven heen as 1 yet et not a handorgan among mOh them rh picture would not be com complete corne without the familiar darker shad shadIng hat hatIn Ing In ot of omnipresent loafers whose name Is II legion lelon eh each with a slouch hat pUlled down don ov over r one ear a Ion long black cloak thrown over one une shoulder a cigar be between between tween th the lly resembling Solo Solomon Solomons mon mons lilt lilies In Jut Just one respect that he tolls not nol dues he be spin though parr as al the poorest having nothing to do but bUI smoke moke and loun lounge hi his life lite away On one is I more and more inclined to agree with the traveler who ho aid Id One third of the people or of Madrid spend pend theIr In carriages In cafes cafe and one In iii that In these theae dews day follow In Ins the wr war It wo would be m more re correct Ir 1 to ay that halt half the people are beggars bellar end nd the other halt half about aboul equally divid divided td ed b between I the hll an and 1 On Sunday and saints d ud more than halt the Spanish calendar belon belongs to 10 the latter th the Ihu shops are re closed chilled and lId all 11 work I b suspended tb the people thronging the churches earl early In the morn morning In the bull light In the afternoon the Prado In the earl early evening and ten then theaters end and ball until dawn Activity there ther la II no end of but industry which I le quite another thin thing appear to be beat beat at a discount everywhere rt In Somebody has haa described 6 Ih the climate of Madri Madrid a as nine months winter and nd three Ibre months month hell hII This unpleasant condition hat has been greatly Ur modified however within the last lut by the Introduction ot of water for tor Irrigation and 1141 the consequent ruth growth of Ir trees Th Three hundred years Co ago all this region relon was dense primeval forest In whIch kin kings hunted boar boan and bea been Subsequent Iy the tree Were all 11 cut down leaving th the then waterless region rellon barren barrell a as a 1 desert and bleak blak II as the steppes ot of Iata gonis The building of 01 the Ibe gnat que aque duct bringing an abundance of water from th the mountains h has wrought im m menu Improvement but still Ull shade hd Is II the treat at thing lacking to 10 soften the sudden udden and trying changes ot of tempe rehire Even II l summer the near by Guadarrama range I Is topped with snow now and nd In winter the cold I is Int intense at t this fX ex x eed nearly feet above bove sea level leel From all an poInt ot of view Ih these te mountains art are the greatest charm ot of the Spanish capital Walking In the streets of Madrid at this time ot of year Fear glimpses of snowy summit so 10 near Mar tit t YOU fancy fanoy yourself at Interlaken or Innsbruck of In sunny SpaIn There art are many points lat ot of from which the view borders upon the sub aub Urn lime though always alway stern end anet often dreary rom San chapel for the palace on Oh the theother theother other side Ide ot of tb the dry 10 gorge 0 of the Man bound boundless If expanse ot of plain and nd hills Impresses you ou much a u a view or of one elile ot of our western It Its tall grasses 11 billowing to th the horl son IOn like a windswept see HL Th The little church hurth 0 of Sa San Isidro the saint le II said 1114 to mark I the exact centre of the peninsula As A every ver body knows know San Isidro was a laborer but an uncommonly plots ploua that he left hi his plow Idle In the furrow while he w went nt to make mAk In regard ard to needed ra rain III or shine at t tilt the shrine ot of Saint II ays that his hIli work went on lust the saute without I him angels down from heaven beann beanna a and d guiding the plow while other heat hea heanly enly kept the wolves from d de devouring hi his oxen on n He died in III the year yar tal and wu was by nl III who was wal cured of an illness upon In Ing his hIli body It tl a related that when Queen un Isabella bell came to pray ray by hi his corp corpse on one of her mal maids ot of honor to kl kiss a toe bit It oft off and swallowed It to letu secure eternal rood good health by bv this heroic float dose But Rul she be Imm be became m dumb and dId not recover her he speech etCh until the dl day when she V forth the relic which it I till preserved In the chapel hapel B WARD |