| Show aR DRESS f By Anne Rittenhouse e pleated Skirts Are Gaining Headway Every Week in inthe inthe the he Fashions Suggested for Warm Weather EW w YORK Mar liar 3 Women 3 Women have ha no accepted the he flaring circular skirt r 0 o he full gathered one with peace in th th Jr r hearts or serenity in lit their minds L r mje T ie e knowledge of ot this restlessness in Regard to an established fashion is the these se secret egret ret of ot the twisting and nd turning of ot 1 designers to create som something bet- bet long full fun skirt is an abomination short full fun one one h has S many ta la es on certain figures that no skill intelligence can overcome Dozens different models have been turned ose se on a discon discontented world of ot wom- wom Ise t t most of which have been snatched J 1 by the young the slim and the Short leaving the middle aged the t tut ut an and the tall in a a. state of ot perplexity per per- and irritation C Coming ing Back to Straight Line all 11 the objection toward the new ew ewt skirt rt t is not directed toward its fullness a although hough this is quite undesirable when t 9 lulls Is placed around the hips and the then n but the strongest resentment directed toward the hem hemd hema a and d Its uncomfortably way of blowing juth the wind If It the fullness fullness' clings c e close ose to the figure much of ot its i is diminished but there therea a seems ms ems to be insuperable difficulties in inc c ting and draping such a skirt with g good od result What women women like above all other th things rigs In a skirt is a a. straight line a ahem hIm hem that hangs plumb from the waist and and it looks as though their united 1 desire ire w was s father to the designers' designers th thought for tor pleated skirts are here and and d pleated skirts usually mean a straight line he modified Highlander suit with 1 ifs of ot checked or plain homespun and velvet coat serves to accentuate it Inja a picturesque manner the incoming garment Either Hither box pleats or knife p p pleats pats eats ats can be used in these new skirts Tie e pleats are not stitched but are pressed with a strong hand and good Hot iron and caught beneath to bands Q tape There is not the slightest suggestion anywhere of crinoline or orr r farthingales they are as slim as straight as unpretentious as Scottish Kilts They will n not t be made of ot wiry m materials materials- like serge gabardine or Irish h Homespun they are at their best in ilk bilk satin and woolen voile volle The he latter fabric has been restored U o 0 high f fashion hion in Paris and we ve shall Undoubtedly get hold of ot it in the next month Jersey Cloth for PI Pleated Skirts Kihe he fabric that is now In the lime- lime for these pleated skirts is Jersey cloth th of ot Paris th the wizard of ot otilie the ilie lie looms has woven a new kind of J Jersey cloth which is espe especially intended intend Intend- ed rd ed for spring suits Tile The softness of this fabric makes makeS' it fall easily into pl pleats ats and is durability is well known The 1 The law which calls for a coat and skirt of ot the same material will be bebr br broken ken this spring The Highland suits suits were the first to sm smash sh this tra- tra Continued on page page 6 6 DRESS Continued from page 3 3 and acid the new skirts made mado of sort soft material will further the breach of its The sketch today shows a pleated skirt of s soft ft silk which hangs in a straight line from waist to h hem hem- it has weights at the waist bottom to keep m. m It plumb Th The coa coat is s o of garb in in the same color with a flat yoke at the tho I top top there there are many many yokes in inthe inthe I the new coats coats and and a broad belt embroidered embroidered embroidered em em- broidered in gold braid The outline i of this jacket shows that the French I designers are harking back to the British British Brit Brit- i ish fighting jacket It is quite quito probable probable probable proba proba- 1 ble that as the the spring spring comes on the field uniforms will again creep into fashion The German military cape is already established in this country Some smart women have appeared in these capes on Sunday after aCter church in gray and oyster colored cloth with one end thrown over the left shoulder |