Show Ji Beau au Brummel Would Blush for Shame lf J-lf J lf He Saw a New Nell Yorker in 1915 16 Styles Bo k r CRO i f. f 4 Tt COOR k T DRS S r. t 7 7 4 sASH fG eo II r c 5 J 4 t lAC J Lr vIo I COpT 1 PE 4 p N 0 0 p a EMt op N FO o uTro r j J I r- r Time Honored Model of F Fashion Wont Won't Be in It With Up to Date Men in Their Form Fitting Fit Fitting Fitting Fit Fit- ting Coats Polychrome Shirts Lids That Can Be Heard Before Seen and Vests That Speak for t i Themselves Special Correspondence NEW V YORK TOR Oct OcL 2 This ThI This is Is the year when the men the men the dear dears dears- are going to make themselves look like French Trench dancing masters matere The sport shirt was a crack ereck In the conventional armor annor of the American male malea a crack that now has ha widened to a chasm I Jn eral recent letters believers In sex ex equality have been urging me ma to aay ny something about the silly way nay men dress But in an office filled with the creatures that's that 8 not such an easy eay story to put over It was waso o much more popular to write about the freak feminine bathing suit of 1915 or the absurd resemblance between silhouette lette and ond nd her granddaughters granddaughter's Men love to consider themselves sartorial spa spart nans ns It is taking the joy Soy out out-of their lives to hint that their clothes are not always models of ot chaste dignity that they ever yield to the quips and cranks and wanton wiles nods and becks and wreathed smiles of Dame Fashion Seductive and sensational attire has long been considered a feminine prerogative part and parcel of foolishness But theres there's mens men's fo foolishness JOn ft n In nil All U. U If you yau j are incredulous r d IU i follow l th the theartist theartist artist and me In our tour of ot the smart haberdashery shops then shops then go home and laugh at your husband if it you jou ou have one one- Men Meni Styles Follow Fashions Accepted by Women The ery very first thing the very first expert In mens men's fashions said to us usia I Is ia this Mens we wear r follows w women's mens men's itea wear mens men's clothes always are In Influenced io- io Influenced along the general lines Jines of ot the tylea accepted by women Tell that thatto to o the next male censor of feml- feml you rou chance to J meet eeL This his year womans woman's waist line is iss s lOb bart haply I jy outlined continued the BeauBr Beau Br md- md of ot the clothing business Tb Therefore man mans man's 0 waistline will be elD The form Corm fitting suit wilt be the rule Then Ten en he showed us one 1 should tan fany it would be extremely becoming becom- becom ln ing ingo jo o a a. French rench dancing master or a ac c cadet But Buthe the he hobble skit wa was no more absurd on a zoO zoO- I d woman than wilt will be the form torm fit tips suit on a pound ZOO broker j It Jt Emphasizes phalli ts the waistline It also emphasizes the absence of ot waistline 11 o om Just below the arms it begins Its Us Stealthy hour glass curve flaring out over the hips It lovingly car caresses les every svelte line Une also lIO a as ae I Ii ha have e intimated the absence of ot such line line You know that downward rd rubbing gesture which a not too woman employs in smoothing he her over her er hips 1 I expect ti to c our tired business men mei adopt it thia winter for tor settling their coats Bu But cone for men are undoubtedly the th only permanent solution I heard heather U at Is not the newest brand of perfumer perfumery for dres dressing table It Its the newest color for rs jias jia's clothes cloth Its It's t a sort of ot browny browny- gre green n 1 mixture reminiscent of the scotch cotch downs as ma scotch cotch downs as ma costumer remarked with more poetry th than geography g Some home samples of ot it which I 1 aw were harmless enough excepts except fo for tor the ridiculous name Dante tome Some make snake the wearers resemble n le Gilbert Gilbett rt and nd Sullivan's Sullivans sr Grosvenor GaUer Gallery foo grave grav grave ln young man man Another nother cunnin feature of oC the men mens suits this year jear Is the half inch cuff what one ml might h call the I Turned TUf ed up it ii I is I. and In a quarter quart r Inch tf if t braid which also I pIn pinks Trot Out the collar and pockets in man many instances Our men cant can't nt go for soldiers but they can ho have sol 01 sul- sul diers' diers trimmings QI on Oil their clothes l. l They can have ha nice wide athletic looking lapes too foo and iid the they've got em Even Eten the tests ets have bave lapels that Thus must extend inches beyond the ears earn of ot the narrow clerks whom on ones ece clogging traffic on lower Hr adway between 5 and 6 every aft aft- Speaking of cZ narrow narrow chests cheats an and pre Jcl cate lungs J am Jn n sure sure- you will 11 Ten remember m mer er that om nm I of ot men mena severest erest strictures It have ve beet been passed on the women who dur dur- ln ing the past winter or two have collarless or V necked blouses Th j naret new sack coat for tor men aft affords much less protection to the ch chest st than 1 Is afforded by a womans woman's s coa coat To be de man min this winter roust have hao but one ono button on oat and his vest est is to be cut lower ower than ever eer Does the thie hygienic inconsistency bother him It does not Dont Don't you r realize that the sloping edges of hi his one one button button coat making a triangular o opening qing In front will tend to dimin- dimin ish the circumference of ot his manly form at its meridian Were Vera any sac sac rIfle too great for tor that It were I not Waistcoats Will B Be e Stronger Thu Thi Winter Vests v ts m my mt cicerone cicerone through the I Imai's mais mai's mazes s of ot haberdashery remarked complacently will be stronger than I evet this winter from the I men I A beheld the iney will The Trie lat Jatei ate Timothy Woodruff should turn tura in j nut ve For instance I saw on one waistcoat nf f y- y yellow Ilow and gre green n plaid that looked L lik Uka ka t a Futurists Futurist's vision of ot seasick seasick- v b ness It was was was' double breasted the brown pearl peari buttons with white centers centers centers cen cen- cen- cen arranged in a a. cute little inverted triangle formation It had ad a a. pocket with a three-Inch three flap on one side Then there was a spiffy black and white check with black and white I buttons a a. mustard colored affair with bronze bronz buttons and a brilliant blue plaid For evening vests Brady buttons your buttons your own fancy tancy In Jewels jewels- are recommended Vests are to be cut low and not possessing any Illusions on the subJect subject sub sub- of masculine vanity I looked no further for a a. a reason after I bad had seen the spectrum shirts These are the stripes I counted on one flannel crape shirt shirt yellow yellow green lavender dark gray on another yellow jellow dark gray ray light gray green red And to think that women have to struggle along in plain white or at least beast one colored shirt waists waists' The shirts to I be he worn with evening dress this winter win ter are going to have JuSt the loveliest love love- 1 liest embroidery Its It's in his hili 1915 16 millinery how how- it f fee I r j ee- ee 4 I I HAIP ever that chalks up h his sartorial high score Have you seen the half halt and half hats bats They'd make Solomon in all his glory look like a piker The material is felt the shape something In the nature ofa of ofa a sugar loaf loat The color is lavender if youre you're looking at the crown black if It youre you're viewing the brim Or mayhap mayhap may may- hap its it's green above and seal seat brown rown below or the popular pearl on top and slate elate underneath As E E. Foy re remarks remarks re- re remarks marks a pretty thing Only In one Broadway ship did I find anything any any- thing to beat it At the orner corner of ot a a. certain street between Twenty third and Thirty fourth there Is s a II window full tull of green brown and gray felt hats besprinkled with brilliantly hued wide two autumn leaves 1 Honest The decoration is either I painted on or woven into the felt i Two Toned Two Toned Hats With I Splashy Bows Many of the dark felt feU hats have narrow white rims jima and some som of ot the black bands ate are edged edged- with narrow white cord All AI the bands are very wide with big splashy bows minia- minia ture reminders of the sash sashes ash s women have worn this summer Many bands are are of ot pleated silk gayly checked or figured and look like neckties twisted about the hat The silk hats are of any shape except the conventional bell Caps are loudly checked and in addition many of ot them show concentric concen concen- trio circles of ot red as if it from the premature premature premature pre pre- mature of ot a tomato can Shoes for fr men are ae two toned black and mahogany black and cream brown and tan often with cloth uppers and leather vamps On seVeral pairs I saw fat tat brown or white buttons each with a tIny tny r rhinestone rhine rhine- lne- lne stone In the center Ties are on a de debauch debauch de- de bauch the same scarf showing dots f stripes and arabesques arabesques broad broad d red and black stripes sprinkled with dotas dots dote as big as peas and kept a apart art forcibly by Inch wide bands of ot yellow wiggles Pl Plaid ld and crazy quilt ties also se seen popular The evening wr wrap p for tor m gentle mi gentie man Is to be a short hort full cape with witha a high fur tur collar w which will wili hang gracefully over his left shoulder Once more envisage the plump plutocrat plutocrat plutocrat pluto pluto- crat in II- this picturesque garment They didn't show me a p. fur edged sack suit a ev evening ning shirt or trousers that leave leae off midway J. J between be be- e- e tween knee and ankle But I fe feel l sure that was an oversight t. t Mens Men's wear follows women wear you remember ernly er- er only duly this year it s seems ems to be trying to ret pet t ahead |