Show ills Y 0 w- w wr 0 r o o 0 T a A t 1 o r 0 p o p r. r po o p a aF F i T t I s' s Q QS 4 c 4 S Z F i J f f tvr T TM A M l h Y N on 0 Ci p 0 French Models Till U Up at atOne o a aT T Two T Tone e Model fodel t l fr One Side Roo Trim Trimmed With bilk I h SRI O Millinery Prices Still Soaring Up Upward Upward- ward ward- y No More Conical Crowns Rolling Brims Becoming to All F Faces Faces- aces A Word About Veils P o OME rE dust dry statistician makes mates fe the assertion that If It women bought PS P'S S Ano no new clothes for tor six months a 1 panic would ensue and further farther tells us ns that fifty uty millions of ot dollars are annually spent in this country for tor millinery millinery mil mil- alone If It the new fall tall hat and the Easter Caster bonnet have such a vital In Influence In fluence on the business of ot the country there should surely sorely be cause for tor rejoicing that the tho fall tall season Beason Is now all but upon us and the selection of ot the winter chapeau cba- cba P peau au becomes Imperative X Still More to ly For Tor n new New ew TT Tint flat The manipulators of ot national finance may also abo take heart of ot grace Irace for tor the r news has baa leaked out that hats are to bemore bemore be bemore more expensive It is hard to s see seo how they could be but that they will be the milliners are warning us Women demand demand demand de de- mand larger and larger bats hats complain these poor browbeaten brow milliner folk tolk and large hats cost more money than small ones not in the trifling matter of ot extra material but because only the richest and aud best beet materials will give proper class and distinction to the big hat hilt which if It built of ot cheaper material tai 15 apt to degenerate Into tawdriness In the big bis hat too the lines must most be bo carefully designed and the movement ment of ot the shape as tho the French milliners 1 express s it It must mast have grace style and andt t character So skilled and expensive people people peo peo- plo must mast be employed to work on these larger hats where small or medium chapeaux chapeaux chapeaux cha- cha peaux could be creditably turned out at much less cost coat The Be Best Dest t Models Model The wise woman selects her first autumn au an- hat with discretion knowing that the advance models will very likely exO exa ex- ex a O hanst haust their own popularity before mid mid- M season cason arrives It takes a deal of ot cleverness cleverf clever- clever J f ness nese to select satisfactory styles unless the purse be generously long The z 1 J wealthy woman who can depend on an authoritative milliner constantly In la touch with the best beat Paris Parts styles Is 15 usually pro pro- vied Tided with satisfactory and suitable bats hats without any worry It is the woman mast make her dollars go a long Jong longway w way y and who I Is not sure lure which way aT the eat will jump in exploited styles who r has bas all the difficulty Therefore a very verr simple hat bat should be cho en first deal for tor general street wear and when styles have settled and clarified ed a a. bit later the dressier mW season hats may maT be planned Daubing Cavalier r Models Model The Favorites Earl Earty peeps at Tarts Parts creations for tor aut au au- t n reveal hats that Invariably turn 9 f. f up somewhere The roll roil may be sharply S upward at ono one side Bide or just jost a tilt at the tho edge of ot the brim or the brim ma may be by i slapped a against the high crown directly at the back a decidedly new fancy tancy The Cavalier model rolling gradually up at 1 atthe atthe the left leet side sido and sloping sharply downward downward down down- ward on the other Is the favorite and many of ot the graceful models ready for tor fall fan show this Cavalier shape Such a ahat ahat hat heaped with puffy fluffy trimming trimming trim trim- ming Is shown in the Illustrations Many variations of this rolling brim will wUl willbe willbe be bt seen but In lu almost every caso case the new crowns are alike rather nUke rather high with flat tops The low conical crowns of ot last year rear are no longer seen One pretty model for tor first fall wear has a rolling Cavalier brim and a very high crown around which is banded a straight strip of ot bias black velvet with a 1 huge perfectly perfectly per per- flat bow smashed against the crown I on the right side of ot the hat opposite the rolling side Tucked against the crown within the roll of ot the brim is a little stilt stiff cluster of ot roses In pink shading to a adark adark adark dark Beauty tone The Tho rolling brim Is a welcome change after a tiresome period of ot mushroom millinery mil mU millinery and the brim that curves slightly It is much less harsh and trying than the severe mushroom line Une So many varieties varie varle varieties ties of ot roll brims are ready too that every face may be suited Wings High nigh In Tarts Parts Furor Favor All An the smart French millinery millIner designed for tor first fall tall wear with tailored costumes shows a 11 favor for tor wings and other stiff feather teather trimmings Some of ot the wings are enormous measuring more than a yard from tip Up to tip Sometimes these big wings are combined with long soft sott breasts which en encircle the crown the wings pointing toward the back Heron und and gull feathers are much mach used and the tho short abort fan tan wings standing up pertly at atone atone atone one side are considered very smart A green napped beaver with one side of ot the brim smashed up against the high crown has on op the turned up side two too pert fan tan wings standing up like a cockade cockade cockade cock cock- ade and nd on the opposite or opposite or lower side of ot the hat hat hat-an an immense cabochon of ot pleated green velvet This is a very Tery authorItatIve authoritative au au- model aud and Is U full tull of ot dash and chic SCArf rind and Quill Trimmings On Felt Hats flats So many outings take place e during the floe fall taU days that a special hat bat is needed for tor this u ns use the straw outing hat bat most probably by this time having become becom I hopelessly Smart outing styles Ityl are shown In flexible felts felt with simple yet Jet correct trimmings of ot crushed silk lIt and Jaunty wings or quills The gr gray tra 7 and nd brown tones are the best bestIn bestin bestin in these serviceable felt hats for tor tall fall wear year and a bit of ot warm color or cool navy blue bine may be added In the silk IlIk scarf y S Sri I tt 3 S i ri p C tK Pt i u rJ TS' TS v y 1 1 Jaunty Turbans for Curly 7 When all Is said and done and new fashions have been presented t to stand or ortall fall tall In popular favor tavor the gentlewoman chooses a gentlewoman's hat bat and each season Renson the sensational styles which are the first sent by Paris to America are toned down to meet conservative American Amerl Ameri- cnn can approval Extremes are always avoided avoided avoid avoid- ed by women of ot refinement and It Is seldom sel sel- seldom dom that the shape or the color pronounced pronounced pro pro- a favorite at the beginning of ot a aBenson season Benson holds holda its place after the sifting of ot the styles An instance of ot this was demonstrated early this summer Bummer At the beginning of ot the spring advance models by the best milliners showed the wide- wide brimmed crowned broad-crowned Cavalier Ca model with a n roll roil toward the the left side These hats in their beauty and grace were temporarily tern tem thrust to the wall by the exaggerated exaggerated eng eng- peach baskets and other monstrosities of ot this nature which descended on the land like a pest of ot lo lo- lo- lo rusts The peach-basket peach pest over fashion fashion fash tash- ion became sane again and the charming bats hats designed originally for tor this summers summers summer's sum mers mer's wear we wear r. r came forward tOr and have held the field unmolested Two-Tone Two Effects Still A Fad The new fall tall millinery colors are d delightful de and many women will choose colored col ored hats In one and aud two-tone two effects for tor wear with black or gray suits For first street wear there are felts in all the soft I or grape harvest shades caramel browns and smoke and elephant I grays A brand new color cal called ed vert de is represented among the greenland greens greenl greenlI t I and there are also aeroplane gr green soft green sott n-sott soft and grayish like fields seen from a distance dIg die and tance-and tance and deep bottle green as dark In I its way war as is raisin the darkest of ot the fruit shadings To lighten these subdued colorings there are sulphur and mustard yellows Nattier Sattler and Beauvais blues and a brilliant cherry pink Amethyst and violet I shades have been extremely fashionable all summer in Paris and it is probable that until holiday time at least leut these thele colors will be modish here The new wing and quill trimmings are dyed In these soft ott beautiful shades hades as aswell aswell aswell well as the ost ostrich ostrAch ch feathers and all the new satins velvets and moire silks match as well A A. very Terr smart turban for tor early autumn wear is Illustrated the shape being a flexible felt In one of ot the new g gr green en n shades with satin trimming in a slightly lighter green shade and two curving quills completing th the two-tone two etre erect effect t. t All AU the new turbans set Get well down around the head and nud with waves of ot bright hair II j 3 4 I peeping out beneath the them they are very verr captivating Other styles In simple street bats hats of ot felt are shown with trimmings of ot quills and folded of ot silk All of these hats have hATe the rolling brim which is to tobe tobe tobe be so fashionable next season A flexible felt elt In the very verr dark coal gray color has hasa a high crown around which aro are a band and pleating of ot steel blue bine taffeta silk with a n puffy rosette of the silk sUk at one side A silver sliver cord around the crown over the blue silk and a dull silver stiver cabochons at Jit t the heart of ot the bl big rosette make moke a v very attractive color harmony with the dark coal dust hue of ot the felt Moire Silk For Dressy Dressy- hats lint Every season has its distinguishing fabric Last year rear the fabric was ottoman silk Now It is moire silk This heavy silk sUk with Its watered effect In the weave will be used not only for trimmings but for whole hat coverings some of ot the larger shapes having moire tops and velvet facings One dressy model shows chows moire on the upper part of ot the brim and around the crown the top of ot the crown and aDd the brim facing being of ot velvet Veils Complete The Tone One Effect One turns tarns natura naturally ly to the wearing of ot a avell veil vell In In inthe the early fall tall Somehow the trim neatness of ot the beveled bevele hat bat and coiffure have a special appeal In the first brisk breezy fall tall days when one has bas tired of ot the informality of summer dress The smartest veils veil are those with square or octagon mesh and with woven oen discs or rings rather than chenille dots The face ell veil Is worn orn longer In Paris now and quite covers the chin A generously big veil is purchased and the excess fabric is folded beneath the chin the ends being carried back and pinned securely to hat and hair It is quite a feat teat to arrange a face tace veil veU gracefully over the bats hats turned up at the side but two or three of ot the tiny tinT Invisible hairpins will usually bold the veil Tell to the hair trimly and neatly V come In all aU the smart colors and the hat bat is matched by a veil which adds greatly to the modish tone one erect effect of ot the headgear t J. J T N. N f w e I I of the new Hew lia Hats Hats' s Hove e v e a Roll in Soft oft Plumy I t. t i r Trimmings s on Graceful She Shapes es f 1 I. i J 1 1 |