| Show J JI I SALE Of SHODDY ODDY SUITS A AS CALL ALL WOOL FLAYED AT ME MEET New York Manufacturer Tells That Clothing Should Bear Label Showing Amount of Virgin Fleece ce Used P PURE PUR tiRE fabric laws taws si similar to the pure food laws taws requiring requiting th the specific labeling of t the materials that make up th the fabric fabri were advocated today by Alexander Walker a New York manufacturer in hi his address to the third days day's session of the fifty- fifty fifth annual convention of the National association in the Hotel Utah on Substitutes for Wool Taking as a a basis for his address addres a plea for a square deal for the Mr Mi Walker denounced the practice of fabric manufacturers in camouflaging camou camou- under an all lIall wool n name me fabrics that are a combination of virgin wool and shoddy In buying a suit of of clothes the average man when he buys an all wool suit does so under the impression impression s- s sion slon that he is buying a suit made entirely entirely entirely en en- of ot virgin wool whereas he he e Is s buying a combination of pf virgin woland wool wol and shoddy Mr Walker pointed out oOt ot Technically the suit is all wool since sh shoddy Is wool used time and time tima again S SHODDY HAS ITS USES Shoddy has its uses and Is 19 very es essential essential essential es- es to the manufacture manufactureS of pf fabrics and its use Is by no means tc to be condemned con con- con con- J but lut ut laws should be enacted that would require each suit sut of clothes to be labeled in such manner that the buyer might know the exact content of the wool and the content of the shoddy that at goes to make up the suit Mr Walker declared Wool has three qualities qualities length length life Ufe and resiliency he resiliency he pointed out In Inthe Inthe Inthe the manufacture of shoddy these these- three qualities are lost since the shoddy shoddy- making process destroys the fiber r. r the e elife life and the resiliency The average suit of clothes Mr Walker Valker explained goes from the wearer to a secondhand second dealer who in turn sells i li it to a n. F. F Knight of at the road When the suit becomes so worn that it cannot be worn even en by the tramp it is thrown away making making mak mak- ing its reappearance soze sorpe two years ears or so later in a new suit of or clothes as as shoddy The shoddy is used in this manner from seven to eight tim times s before before before be be- fore It finally reaches its lust last placa hlaca lac of ot abode in roofing paper READS PAPER ON SILO Dr S. S W. W McClure secretary of or the association read reacT a paper paper on on Silage and Silo Construction b by A A. G. G Butterfield Butterfield Butterfield But- But of ot Weiser Ida one of the recognized authorities on the use of ensilage who tel telegraphed graphed that he wa was prevented from Attending the conven tion Mr lr Ir Butterfield in his paper pointed out the advantages of the underground underground underground un un- silo over the silo and the methods he be uses both bothin in inthe the storage and the feeding of the en en- en silage Ensilage is better for feeding p pur purposes r- r poses than ha hay since experiments on n his ranch in Weiser have demonstrated that it produces heavier wool and heavier lambs than the feeding of ot hay Mr Butterfield asserted Moreover Moreo a greater value to the acre comes from ensilage than from hay Following Is the address In part of ot Alexander Walker Walker- The receives l less ss for hi hl his wool wool wool-in in proportion to the peoples people's need and demand for virgin wool wool than than does the producer i of any ny other Important commodity in the world The people want virgin wool wool theY demand virgin wo they l they l-they they pay extra to get virgin wool wool but but in many instances while th they pay for tor virgin wool they get mostly shoddy More foe than two-thirds two of th the raw maI ma- ma t teral ral used In th the manufacture of woolen apparel sold as all wool is shoddy and I not virgin wool as the people believe A uA very large part of the peoples people's de demand demand demand de- de mand for virgin wool never reaches the but is diverted from the to the rag and shoddy In Industries industries In- In by those fabric man manufacturers who sell shoddy fabrics as virgin wool BUYER GETS SHODDY This is the reason that so 80 much of ot th the th peoples people's money spent for virgin wool and Intended for you rou never reaches jou you but is divided between the rag and shoddy industries and the fabric manu manu- This is the reason why so many many of you ou are not receiving a Just Continued on page 3 E OF SHODDY t If Continued from page 1 The inYthe he capital and effort you are your business Us lis' the reason th that t l-t so many of ot now no and in the past tiered a a. financial loss many years past and even durY dur- dur Y ar 1319 1919 the did lye Ive for their wool anything near e to which they were entitled e er of the e United l mad iad received for or their ewo wo wool ti the h the peoples people's demand w warthe warthe war war- r- r the of the United would Tt today oday he be enjoying their t our nations nation's unprecedented TION JIP SMALL i ou ever stopped to consider Is that Is that the normal consumption n 1 wool of the United States Is pounds which by con- con 1 amounts to only in scoured wool trou you ever realized that ids ids' of ot scoured wool Tool Is only wool ke t two o and a half halt pounds apiece e for the he people people not not enough winter cult ruit here are the summer suits the y tho the winter oV overcoats caps mittens ens hosiery hosler d for bed blankets for for upholsteries for carriage and for horse blankets etc where does oes the wool come to toI I these other necessary articles lave ave used as high as if carpet wool in a year in the Mates tates and to provide even one and woolen blanket per family f of our cur country would on f estimate t t require o l pounds of ot wool wool wool-In In carpets and blankets alone pounds we use lave but to consider these fig figr- to realize the of ot shoddy that are being NCE iCE CE DURABLE let lee for tor a moment the suit you wearing You probably paid aid a good und pric U T. fOr it and and j j its is is- is c tt less e ess all n wool but do you realize 1 that the chances are the material the material from which th the cloth was made previously did service as hf som some other perhaps article ar cle perhaps a a. a horse horIG iJ blanket perhaps a do dog blanket or both bothIn bothin both both- in addition to possibly being previously I worn by one or more ore individuals in the form r of a a. suit or an n overcoat I After you are through with it and have cast aside it-aside it may be sold by some second hand clothes man and eventually I end up on the back of a a. hobo and when it becomes so 0 shredded that it is no longer wearable even by a a. tramp It returns re retUrns returns re- re turns to the he woolen manufacturer via the rag and shoddy route and It may again make It Its reappearance with you a a. year or two hence in the form of a new all wool suit which you purchase and for which you pay an extra price because It ItIs ItIs itis Is all wool wool the the term to you mea meaning ping virgin wool In order fully to comprehend this subject subject subject sub sub- I you must remember that shoddy Is used over and over again being reworked six eight or even more times Umes But if It we are conservative in our estimate and allow only an average or ot four for shoddy this would mean that pounds of ot shoddy would Quid by being reworked on an average of ot four times be equivalent to wool would and by being sold as all prevent the sale and use of pounds of scoured virgin wool or SOO- SOO I pounds of grease virgin wool If Jf manufacturers used virgin wool Instead Instead In Instead In- In stead of shoddy all the virgin virgil wool that accumulated during the war and all the virgin wool produced in the world In ID the Y year ar 1919 would long ago have been mad up into cloth and the would not as now need to worry orry about antidumping antidumping antidumping anti anti- I IY dumping laws there laws there would be no wool ool to dump TARIFF SHOWN I r am in favor of ot protecting the wool- wool grower by an adequate tariff by tariff by legislation legislation legislation legis legis- lation to lo correct the dog evil and by every other means But so 50 long as shoddy continues to tobe tobe tobe be sold as virgin wool sheep husbandry can no more be safeguarded merely by tariff and legislation than could the sheep in a sheep fold told be protected merely by building fences to keep leep out the bears while there was inside the sheep fold a pack of wolves Under the Dingley Dingle tariff with a duty of ot 11 cents a pound on wool you will will- will will-re- re recall recall re- re call that tine wool growers received only 8 S Scents cents a pound and In some Instances only 6 cents r No matter how many other things may be done In behalf of ot sheep husbandry the can never secure a square deal and the profits to which he is en entitled entitled entitled en- en titled until shoddy is Identified In cloth and clothes and the people are permitted to exercise their right to choose between shoddy and ln wool The national salvage council of or Great Britain and the waste reclamation servIce service service I ice organized by Secretary ex-Secretary Redfield during his tenure of onY office as secretary rei of commerce of the United st States help to I explain the tremendously Increased amount of ot ra rags s and scraps of cloth that have during the past couple of years become become be be- come conic available for shoddy manufacturers SENSATION PROMISED Even with all the difficulties f i I and nd In Inadequate to- to ad re lit rr the adequate facilities which I I stand in the way of obtaining complete and authentic re reports reports reports re- re ports concerning th the use of ot shoddy in inthe inthe inthe the United States the census of manufacturers manufacturers manufacturers manu manu- which will be taken talen during durin 1920 Is likely ely to indicate a volume of ot shoddy now being used so great creat as to amaze the world worM With the grea greatly Increased facilities facilities- both here an and ani in Great Britain for Britain for forgathering gathering rags and cast off oct apparel with watt the improved modern machinery that makes males it possible for even the worst worsted d manufacturer to use short wools and with the tremendous premium and in inI incentive incentive in- in for the fabric manufacturer to I use shoddy instead of virgin wool that thatis is provided by the practice of ot selling shoddy without making Its presence known It is perfectly apparent that the I death grip which shoddy has had upon sheep husbandry for tor the past ten years rears is is' is being tightened and can only be broken brok brok- en by permitting the people to exercise their inalienable right to choose between shoddy and virgin wool A manufacturer was recently quoted In n the public press as saying that th the main objection to the use of ot shoddy Clothes comes come from the Ignorance of the of-the the I general public which has allowed an unreasoning unreasoning un- un reasoning prejudice to be capitalized by bythe bythe the he The fact is that so many years have elapsed since the public has been permitted permitted permitted per per- I to even think of shoddy that the people do not know that shoddy now exists I The term all wool has been a formidable formidable formidable for for- bulwark behind which for many I years vears those who have profited by the shoddy deception and wrong have es- es themselves with all the complacency ency with which the Germans believed themselves secure behind the Argonne forest PROPAGANDA CHANGED By employing insidious and powerful propaganda fabric manufacturers who secure virgin wool prices for shoddy and andall andall andall all the other shoddy Interests and adherents adherents adherents ad ad- may bo ho expected through th their lr to seek to establish two ideas Idea's Id as First That First That the amount of shoddy is so small as to be a negligible quantity Second Second That That a veritable Argonne forest of difficulties lies lles in the way of ot attempting to identify shoddy It is this knowledge that may be expected expected ex expected ex- ex to cause fabric manufacturers and andall andall andall all others who profit by the shoddy de- de celt to concentrate their efforts to prevent pre prevent vent by every means which they can enlist the establishing of the term virgin vir gin gln w wool 01 and to cripple the national sheep and wool bureaus bureau's campaign which has already proved such a powerful I agency in showing the people the fallacy fallacy fallacy fal fal- fal- fal lacy of the term all wool and establishing establish establish- ing in the tl-e place of the term all wool I Ithe the term virgin wool that protects the people and the Those who are determined that the i sheep and shall not be freed fred from the monstrous wrong of ot selling shoddy as virgin wool may be expected through their emissaries to tomake make superhuman superhuman superhuman super super- human human- effort to divert the attention of the from the fe teal real l issue and the real remedy Many people would doubtless volun volun- voluntarily voluntarily purchase shoddy hoddy it If they could purchase purchase purchase pur pur- chase it at a Just price but no sane person person person per per- son would knowingly pay virgin wool woolI prices for shoddy as the people are now I In many Instances forced to do Furthermore there are many people I who for satisfactory to themselves themselves them them- selves would not purchase shoddy or or any other second ec nd hand article no ne matter how meritorious or cheap It might be People who have the notion that they do not want second hand clothes or second second second sec sec- ond hand automobiles or r second hand wool s shoddy oddy have a perfect right to their own l Ideas e a and for O fabric c manufacturers manufacturers manu manu- I IRons t r or any y other e person e o or persons per per- sons Rons to force these people to use shoddy I against their will and wish is an illegitimate I mate and despotic use 9 of powe Il I ble to all free people 7 PEOPLE MISUNDERSTOOD It Jt is th the peoples people's misunderstanding of the term all wool that makes makE's it possible pos- pos sible for fabric manufacturers to wrong the people and the by selling shoddy as virgin wool Nothing that has happened during the thelast thelast thelast last t twenty enty years ears has created such const consternation con con- st stern with fabric manufacturers who want to sell shoddy as virgin wool woolas wooli i as has the establishing of the term virgin virgin virgin vir gin wool which can only mean unused fleece wool and which admits of ot no mistake mis mis- take misunderstanding or misrepresentation misrepresentation misrepresentation tation in place of the more general term all wool which makes it easy to fool the people Furthermore these fabric manufacturers manufacturers manufacturers who who want to reta retain n their power to force the sale of ot shoddy also the leaders lead lead- leaders I ers of ot the shoddy and rag industries an and in in fact tact laci all ail shoddy U adherents dh rents now know tha that mai tb l hl f th t tv rn in in fact tact laci all ail shoddy U adherents dh rents tha mai tb l hl f th t tv rn the establishing of the term virgin wool maithe I with the people will force the passage of ofa ofa ofa a truth in fabric law because when the people insist upon a straight ch answer r to the question Is s the fabric virgin wool the factors of ot manufacture and distribution tion will themselves have to demand a truth in fabric law in order to give the people the information which |
